It may be a bit late, but I am soooooo happy to see you post new videos. You have no idea: it's like an old friend returning back home. I promise I won't miss a video from now on. Thank you, God, for bringing Dave back in front of the camera. Best wishes and much love, good to have you back old friend. ❤️🤗🍻
Thank you for your very kind words. The fight against cancer needed my time and focus. Now I can get back to doing what I love. Helping riders like yourself.
Couldn't have said it better! Dave was my nightly sleep routine as a paying subscriber I would fall asleep listening to his suspension setups from DMT. It's so nice to see him doing well again and educating us all with fresh content.
so Glad To HAVE YOU BACK !! (edit) ive been riding 20+ years. on the roads. and look forward to your videos . cause i ALWAYS : and i mean ALWAYS Learn something. Ladies and Gents. the 20+ years is irrelevant. I still learn year in year out.. its Half the fun ❤. every one have a great and aafe upcoming season On and Off Track. safe riding.
Thank you very much for your kind words and support. Planning on cancer being behind me and forging ahead is getting me back in front of the camera and helping riders like yourself. I'm happy to be back.
I never torque the nut against the ball joint on the rod. I've always found that there are flats under the rubber boot so you can hold the end with a second spanner to take the strain when you tighten the lock nut. Thanks for all your content.
Great comment to make riders aware that some of the rods come with an 8mm flat to hold the rod still. Unfortunately the Bandit does not have that much needed feature.
Dave Thank you so much for this EXTREMELY HELPFUL information, i have dealt with 3 dealerships in my 60mile radius and ALL the service mechanics absolutely are terrible, one private owner was excellent but he has now retired. The dealerships dont even return a phone call after ive spent 15,000 on TWO 2023 Tiger 850 sport, i chose that model because i am 6ft 1 and a half, i have long legs and i weigh 250lb, with low bodyfat, i was going to buy the 2023 Scrambler 1200xe but there was reports of the key fob not being acknowledged and stranding people, i didnt want a brand new bike with built in problems, also even though the Scrambler CLAIMS to have adjustable suspension front and rear , theres a Ohlins video specifically showing that if you weigh over 200lb the rear shock cannot accommodate that, and you need heavier springs, theres alot of misleading costly information and once you lay out money for a new expensive triumph it would be nice if you didnt need to dump another 5000 into it, it ludicrous. My use is , i have no money for a safe car so i thought ill get a calm SAFE bike to go back and forth to work on, the street speed limit on the roads i travel is no more than 45mph but alot of traffic, and pedestrians, joggers, dog walkers with 20ft leash expanders and cops that do nothing, im currently doing the best i can with the tiger 850 , im trying to be as strategic as possible im 59yr old and i have to get back and forth to work safely for my midnight work. Thank you Dave you really are the Greatest, take care
Thank you for your kind words and post. Sorry that you are having a difficult time finding quality service work....... If you have an Ohlins rear shock, you can assess shock travel and see if in fact you are in need of more or less preload. Type of use dictates travel, as does weight but given your use scenario, you are not taxing the rear shock: ua-cam.com/video/KeZT1LCY8CU/v-deo.html
In a size 12 UK (13 US). I’ve never even considered this. My track bike came with rearsets and have never felt right. I’m heading out my workshop later to check this out. Thank you.
Thank you for watching. Also add into the checklist: 1. Is your ankle directly under the hip and femur joint. 2. Can you get your hand into the back of your knee with ease or after a fight. 3. Take a picture of your knee angle to make sure you fit the tank correctly.
Great video! Same goes for rear brake adjustment, I have seen people having to hold their foot totally off the lever so that the rear brake does not engage, which unsafe. I also have seen disks discolored by constant heating, which 1) damages braking capabilities 2) if hydraulic, keeps the brake fluid in constant high temp, shortening life span and affecting performance 3) robs engine performance and fuel economy.
Dave glad your well, I have also found over many years that the riding boots (shoes now days as well) play a big part, the thickness of the boot toe area can be massively different between brands and styles, hope this helps🙂
I’d make a guess that most street riders having problems shifting are riding like Charlie Chaplin/Dafy Duck and have never placed the balls of their feet on the pegs. However, this advice is still really good. I took a look at the gear shifter on my first bike as a kid, saw the splines and knew that you were supposed to adjust this, otherwise it would have been made differently. I’ve just been doing it by feel with every bike I’ve had. It’s nice to see a method laid out for people 👍
Thank you for your kind words and your diligence for your motorcycles. There are many ways to miss a shift, this being the most common so I am sure it will help riders at least consider changing the angle and measure the distance for the gap and boot sole length.
This video has popped up at the right time for me. I have recently purchased a new pair of boots and cannot change gears with them, but perfect with my old ones. When i compare the two side on, the new boot heel position is alot closer in to my toes than the original, which causes my foot to sit further back making the foot length shorter. another thing i found is the tip of the new boot is alot thicker as well ang difficult to adjust my foot when swapping from gearing up gearing down. I would like to alternate between both boots but unlikely after watching your video.
Great post and thank you for sharing your very diligent observations. Many riders would not make this comparison and you paying it forward this way helps them gain a different perspective.
Got a set of aftermarket rear sets with more adjustability and it was well worth it. Spend some $ on this before other upgrades, although a good front brake master cylinder such as brembo makes a huge difference in braking and braking feel.
Thx Dave, I'm dealing with this s*it literally for years. I have 46 size boot, and its a hell on the track, where during upshifting half of my cognitive capacity goes to not drag boot on the ground. I've ended with custom made longer shift lever, however as a rod is going through the frame, it still sucks in some situations. I'm setting the position in a way, that I'm putting gear lever as high as I'm able to lift my foot with it on the peg for downshifting. GP shifting would probably solve the issue (upshifting in a lean situation) however rod through the frame doesn't allows it.
Thank you for posting your comment to help others see the value in making the change, even if that is limited. Are there rear sets that can switch from through the frame like the Evol product for the 675 Daytona?
@@catalystreactionsbw PPTuning manufacturer of a rearsets made the rearset in a way, that rod went directly from lever to spline (not through frame). However it was needed to cut a hole in a chain sprocket cover. I didn't like that solution. Unfortunately I didn't have enough experience to asses all the consequences at that time 🙂
Hello Dave. I noticed that u tightened the nut, then loosened it. This is always something u do,or just on lower torque nuts/bolts? Love your videos! U help me a lot. Thanks
Have you tried pre-loading the gear lever with a little weight? Then when you drop revs and/or drop revs and declutch the gear lever kind of moves itself into place and you shift much easier. Then you can also learn to leave the gear lever where it is and not quickly release it back to the neutral position until you release the clutch and she's safely in gear. This should help.
This is great. But let me throw out a curve ball. I have a partially frozen ankle (arthritis) and arthritis in my hip. It make shifting gear a joy on a sports bike (sarcasm). Then you have all you different boots. I have Sidi Rex, and AS Tech10. The Sidi are easier to get my toe under the shifter, but the ankle hinge gets caught on the heal guard. The Tech10's dont get caught on the heal guard, but they are difficult to get under the shift level. Of couse my problems arise due to my restricted movement in my leg and ankle due to the arthritis.
Great post and an issue that many riders face between boots and permanent injury. I have custom made heel guards before out of a sheet of aluminum and eradicated the boot catching. It was a very simple and cheap fix.
@@catalystreactionsbwI thought about that. I have custom heal guards on my street bike (Monster 1200s). But I was concerned they would get in the way on my track bike (Daytona 675R) when Im knee down in the corners. So I looked for a boot that had the protection, but no protrusions that can get hooked on the heal guards. Im now have a new pair of rearset that have more adjustablity, and I can switch between regular ahift and GP shift to see what works best for me. If the new rearsets dont help, I will go back to wearing me Sidi boots and design a heal guard.
5:42 "As long as you ankle is GREATER then 90 deg, that's where you wanna be. If it's HIGHER the 90 deg, you will miss shift." - what does this mean? Explain.
If your ankle is less than 90 degrees, that is an anatomical nightmare as we do not flex that acutely. Therefore if the ankle is at 90-110 degrees at the top of the shift point it is in the optimal range of movement for the ankle.
My wife shares her bike with me. I ride it 80%\she rides 20% of the time. Yes l’m a lucky guy!! Our shoe size is the same,but what if the difference is great? Thanks
With all due respects... this should not be ROCKET Science... it's a simple adjustment to fit what feels comfortable and efficient. No need to re-invent the garden hoe here
Thanbk you for your comment. For those that have never done this task nor even considered a change from stock, a walk through for them is helpful. Experienced at home mechanics will certainly view this differently.
Well, thats tge dumbest thing I've heard today 😅 That distance for for average riders. If your anywhere between a size 7 up to an 11 it's not the distance causing missed gears, it's incorrect use of the controls 🙄 The adjustments you made doesn't change the distance, just tge angle. Its for the type of boot. A race boot is somewhat thin compared to say a motocross boot. You'll need then to change the angle. If you're f**king about with foot positioning it's generally to do with leg length and you'll want some different rear sets. Oh and fir the love of staying rubber side down, down bring the clutch in mid bend like he said. Slow down to match the gear you were in, complete the bend, then change gear. Nuts, why tighten first? They're at a torque setting.
It may be a bit late, but I am soooooo happy to see you post new videos. You have no idea: it's like an old friend returning back home. I promise I won't miss a video from now on. Thank you, God, for bringing Dave back in front of the camera. Best wishes and much love, good to have you back old friend. ❤️🤗🍻
Thank you for your very kind words. The fight against cancer needed my time and focus. Now I can get back to doing what I love. Helping riders like yourself.
Couldn't have said it better! Dave was my nightly sleep routine as a paying subscriber I would fall asleep listening to his suspension setups from DMT. It's so nice to see him doing well again and educating us all with fresh content.
so Glad To HAVE YOU BACK !! (edit) ive been riding 20+ years. on the roads. and look forward
to your videos . cause i ALWAYS : and i mean ALWAYS Learn something. Ladies and Gents. the 20+ years is irrelevant. I still learn year in year out.. its Half the fun ❤. every one have a great and aafe upcoming season On and Off Track. safe riding.
Thank you very much for your kind words and support. Planning on cancer being behind me and forging ahead is getting me back in front of the camera and helping riders like yourself. I'm happy to be back.
Yeeeah!! The great maestro is well and again with us! You were strongly missed.
Cheers
Thank you - great to be back and getting into what I love, helping riders like yourself!
I Like tips like this that help make my riding more comfortable and safer. Thank you Dave.
Thank you for watching and wanting to learn more.
I never torque the nut against the ball joint on the rod. I've always found that there are flats under the rubber boot so you can hold the end with a second spanner to take the strain when you tighten the lock nut. Thanks for all your content.
Great comment to make riders aware that some of the rods come with an 8mm flat to hold the rod still. Unfortunately the Bandit does not have that much needed feature.
Yes! Great to see you back Dave🤠
Thank you - happy to put cancer behind me and forge ahead!
Dave Thank you so much for this EXTREMELY HELPFUL information, i have dealt with 3 dealerships in my 60mile radius and ALL the service mechanics absolutely are terrible, one private owner was excellent but he has now retired. The dealerships dont even return a phone call after ive spent 15,000 on TWO 2023 Tiger 850 sport, i chose that model because i am 6ft 1 and a half, i have long legs and i weigh 250lb, with low bodyfat, i was going to buy the 2023 Scrambler 1200xe but there was reports of the key fob not being acknowledged and stranding people, i didnt want a brand new bike with built in problems, also even though the Scrambler CLAIMS to have adjustable suspension front and rear , theres a Ohlins video specifically showing that if you weigh over 200lb the rear shock cannot accommodate that, and you need heavier springs, theres alot of misleading costly information and once you lay out money for a new expensive triumph it would be nice if you didnt need to dump another 5000 into it, it ludicrous. My use is , i have no money for a safe car so i thought ill get a calm SAFE bike to go back and forth to work on, the street speed limit on the roads i travel is no more than 45mph but alot of traffic, and pedestrians, joggers, dog walkers with 20ft leash expanders and cops that do nothing, im currently doing the best i can with the tiger 850 , im trying to be as strategic as possible im 59yr old and i have to get back and forth to work safely for my midnight work. Thank you Dave you really are the Greatest, take care
Thank you for your kind words and post. Sorry that you are having a difficult time finding quality service work....... If you have an Ohlins rear shock, you can assess shock travel and see if in fact you are in need of more or less preload. Type of use dictates travel, as does weight but given your use scenario, you are not taxing the rear shock: ua-cam.com/video/KeZT1LCY8CU/v-deo.html
Thanks dave , glad to see your well.
Thank you, so glad to see cancer gone. Time to roll the sleeves up and get back to work.
In a size 12 UK (13 US). I’ve never even considered this. My track bike came with rearsets and have never felt right. I’m heading out my workshop later to check this out. Thank you.
Thank you for watching. Also add into the checklist: 1. Is your ankle directly under the hip and femur joint. 2. Can you get your hand into the back of your knee with ease or after a fight. 3. Take a picture of your knee angle to make sure you fit the tank correctly.
Great video! Same goes for rear brake adjustment, I have seen people having to hold their foot totally off the lever so that the rear brake does not engage, which unsafe. I also have seen disks discolored by constant heating, which 1) damages braking capabilities 2) if hydraulic, keeps the brake fluid in constant high temp, shortening life span and affecting performance 3) robs engine performance and fuel economy.
Great post and that will make those who want to know how to make the rear brake adjustment excited for next week's video.
welcome back dave !!
Thank you - happy to put cancer behind me and get back to helping riders like yourself.
Dave glad your well, I have also found over many years that the riding boots (shoes now days as well) play a big part, the thickness of the boot toe area can be massively different between brands and styles, hope this helps🙂
Great post and thanks for sharing that. I appreciate your kind words - good to put cancer behind me!
Great video! Waiting for the brake pedal adjustment now ;)
Thank you. That will be next week.
Welcome back, Dave 🎉🎉
Thank you so much. Glad the cancer fight is behind me. Now focusing on new content.
I’d make a guess that most street riders having problems shifting are riding like Charlie Chaplin/Dafy Duck and have never placed the balls of their feet on the pegs.
However, this advice is still really good. I took a look at the gear shifter on my first bike as a kid, saw the splines and knew that you were supposed to adjust this, otherwise it would have been made differently. I’ve just been doing it by feel with every bike I’ve had.
It’s nice to see a method laid out for people 👍
Thank you for your kind words and your diligence for your motorcycles. There are many ways to miss a shift, this being the most common so I am sure it will help riders at least consider changing the angle and measure the distance for the gap and boot sole length.
This video has popped up at the right time for me.
I have recently purchased a new pair of boots and cannot change gears with them, but perfect with my old ones.
When i compare the two side on, the new boot heel position is alot closer in to my toes than the original, which causes my foot to sit further back making the foot length shorter.
another thing i found is the tip of the new boot is alot thicker as well ang difficult to adjust my foot when swapping from gearing up gearing down.
I would like to alternate between both boots but unlikely after watching your video.
Great post and thank you for sharing your very diligent observations. Many riders would not make this comparison and you paying it forward this way helps them gain a different perspective.
fantastic video
Thank you, glad you enjoyed it.
Got a set of aftermarket rear sets with more adjustability and it was well worth it. Spend some $ on this before other upgrades, although a good front brake master cylinder such as brembo makes a huge difference in braking and braking feel.
Thank you for your comment and thoughts.
Thx Dave, I'm dealing with this s*it literally for years. I have 46 size boot, and its a hell on the track, where during upshifting half of my cognitive capacity goes to not drag boot on the ground. I've ended with custom made longer shift lever, however as a rod is going through the frame, it still sucks in some situations. I'm setting the position in a way, that I'm putting gear lever as high as I'm able to lift my foot with it on the peg for downshifting. GP shifting would probably solve the issue (upshifting in a lean situation) however rod through the frame doesn't allows it.
Thank you for posting your comment to help others see the value in making the change, even if that is limited. Are there rear sets that can switch from through the frame like the Evol product for the 675 Daytona?
@@catalystreactionsbw PPTuning manufacturer of a rearsets made the rearset in a way, that rod went directly from lever to spline (not through frame). However it was needed to cut a hole in a chain sprocket cover. I didn't like that solution. Unfortunately I didn't have enough experience to asses all the consequences at that time 🙂
Thanks Dave!
I appreciate you watching.
Switch to 1up rest down, never miss a shift again, anyway when you coming to the UK again?
When I can get the support of a venue to host me. No luck in the last 3 years on that quest.
Hello Dave. I noticed that u tightened the nut, then loosened it. This is always something u do,or just on lower torque nuts/bolts? Love your videos! U help me a lot. Thanks
Thanks for your kind words. Yes, I will always go a nudge tighter first then loosen with a nut or tap gently with a hammer on a bolt.
Thanks you Dove
Thank you for watching!
Thanks Dave
Glad you enjoyed it.
The greater the distance between peg and lever the less ankle angle change from up to down
I ride a 250cc so I'm usally in 5th- 6th even during weekday traffic. I sometimes miss shift when I do clutchless upshifts.
Have you tried pre-loading the gear lever with a little weight? Then when you drop revs and/or drop revs and declutch the gear lever kind of moves itself into place and you shift much easier. Then you can also learn to leave the gear lever where it is and not quickly release it back to the neutral position until you release the clutch and she's safely in gear. This should help.
This is great. But let me throw out a curve ball. I have a partially frozen ankle (arthritis) and arthritis in my hip. It make shifting gear a joy on a sports bike (sarcasm). Then you have all you different boots. I have Sidi Rex, and AS Tech10. The Sidi are easier to get my toe under the shifter, but the ankle hinge gets caught on the heal guard.
The Tech10's dont get caught on the heal guard, but they are difficult to get under the shift level.
Of couse my problems arise due to my restricted movement in my leg and ankle due to the arthritis.
Great post and an issue that many riders face between boots and permanent injury. I have custom made heel guards before out of a sheet of aluminum and eradicated the boot catching. It was a very simple and cheap fix.
@@catalystreactionsbwI thought about that. I have custom heal guards on my street bike (Monster 1200s). But I was concerned they would get in the way on my track bike (Daytona 675R) when Im knee down in the corners. So I looked for a boot that had the protection, but no protrusions that can get hooked on the heal guards. Im now have a new pair of rearset that have more adjustablity, and I can switch between regular ahift and GP shift to see what works best for me. If the new rearsets dont help, I will go back to wearing me Sidi boots and design a heal guard.
I find leather boots to be better the than plastic stuff for better feel between my toes and the shifter.
We've got a Bandit 1250 at home, so this will be useful!!
5:42 "As long as you ankle is GREATER then 90 deg, that's where you wanna be. If it's HIGHER the 90 deg, you will miss shift." - what does this mean? Explain.
If your ankle is less than 90 degrees, that is an anatomical nightmare as we do not flex that acutely. Therefore if the ankle is at 90-110 degrees at the top of the shift point it is in the optimal range of movement for the ankle.
Size 9 is easy... I got some flippers size 13.
My wife shares her bike with me. I ride it 80%\she rides 20% of the time. Yes l’m a lucky guy!! Our shoe size is the same,but what if the difference is great? Thanks
If there is a profound difference, simply having a shift tab that will rotate in seconds can make all the difference.
Next video: adjusting levers
Already have several. Here is one example: ua-cam.com/video/u0rMMXdKz4U/v-deo.html
With all due respects... this should not be ROCKET Science... it's a simple adjustment to fit what feels comfortable and efficient. No need to re-invent the garden hoe here
Thanbk you for your comment. For those that have never done this task nor even considered a change from stock, a walk through for them is helpful. Experienced at home mechanics will certainly view this differently.
@@catalystreactionsbw Fair enough. I've watched a number of your vids over the years... many are fairly weighty... I overshot this one!
Well, thats tge dumbest thing I've heard today 😅
That distance for for average riders. If your anywhere between a size 7 up to an 11 it's not the distance causing missed gears, it's incorrect use of the controls 🙄 The adjustments you made doesn't change the distance, just tge angle. Its for the type of boot. A race boot is somewhat thin compared to say a motocross boot. You'll need then to change the angle. If you're f**king about with foot positioning it's generally to do with leg length and you'll want some different rear sets.
Oh and fir the love of staying rubber side down, down bring the clutch in mid bend like he said. Slow down to match the gear you were in, complete the bend, then change gear.
Nuts, why tighten first? They're at a torque setting.