The rods: www.maxpeedingrods.com/Toyota-Corolla-E80-E90-1.6L-4A-GE-122mm-Connecting-Rod-High-Performance-4340-EN24-H-Beam-Conrod.html?tracking=D4A Use coupon code D4A to get 8% OFF all orders over $200 on maxpeedingrods.com Become a Tuning Pro: hpcdmy.co/dr4a Support the channel by shopping through this link: amzn.to/3RIqU0u Patreon: www.patreon.com/d4a
Normally an unboxing video wouldn’t be that interesting or informative... but when it’s you and car parts, it’s definitely worth a look! It’s been a while since I saw someone give a level of detail close to what you do here. You really did the research, and read through other people’s testing and research. You discuss many aspects of the product, always with your lovely personality and humour nearby. I’ll admit, I have the negative bias towards products made in China, but you help to correct that with the age-old phrase “you get what you pay for” and with the quality assurance the company has obtained. There are some very premium / luxurious products made in China and we don’t question them despite insane price markups. You’re doing it the right way; researching the products you will use and getting that balance between cost and quality. I love your videos. Thank you!
I don't know what to say other than thank you for the kind words. Some of my friends and acquaintances would disagree with the lovely personality part, but who cares what they think :)
I used these rods in my FJ20ET circuit race car engine pushing 500HP with no issues so far. I did have them resized for safety and I filed a small u - shaped groove in the top side of the big end to oil the gudgeon pin. Mine too were within 0.5g. They have been over-reved to 10000RPM, spend their life at 5000 to 8000 RPM and after 4 years I pulled the big end caps off and the bearings were perfect. Good value I reckon.
MaXpeedingRods was very awesome with customer service for me. I have a VW Mk3 Cabrio with MaXpeedingRods and I was a bit careless and had dirt in the threads while applying torque to the arp bolts, one of the bolts locked up and I had to use a breaker bar with a jackstand handle to completely break the arp bolt off just so I could free the rod and get it out. I sent them a picture of my mistake and was completely honest how I didn't clear dirt out of the threads and they sent me a new rod free of charge... I have no words... but respect.
One more little thing is the hole in the wrist pin side is definitely drilled a bit off center. Otherwise they do look like a good rod for the money! Great overview.
@@yannisx3209 Talking about 10:51 in other shots the hole seemed centered in the oil feed groove, but not that rod. Don't think it will make an effective difference.
I love your no nonsense approach to things, its is very refreshing in a sea of marketing mumbo-jumbo and people jumping on the bandwagon to spout the same nonsense without really thinking about it. I have Maxspeeding Rods suspension on my track car, and despite the hate they get in the car crowd - I'm sure mostly from people who have never even fitted a set - they have held up very well for 4 years, once setup they've been brilliant.
They look pretty much like the Manley rods I put in my 2.3DISI-T engines (MPS/CX7). P.S.: don't swap the caps between rods. they have some markings on them, should be easy to pair them back.
7:35 at least 7afe rods hold up to 400hp at 8000rpm - at that point they start to bend (tested with arp bolts) so they are strong enough.. just look on d15/d16 rods, they are thin as pencils and still make 280-300hp. yeah HP rantings are useless, it depends more on weight of the piston and revolutions and as said by knock really what engine cam make really depends on ring gap :D and ring gap doesnt depend on mileage
as rpm increases, piston acceleration (and hence rod stress due purely to mechanical motion, peaking at tdc & bdc) increases with the square of rpm. depending on what rpm you are chasing, there will come a point where these (kinematic?) forces completely overwhelm the stress of cylinder pressure in normal, non-detonating operation. admittedly this is less of an issue now that people make horsepower with boost rather than engine speed, but the limitations from rpm never stop being an issue www.eng-tips.com/viewthread.cfm?qid=333643
If the Brian Crower rods are still the same as they were years ago then yes they are same design but the difference is that they are 45 grams lighter that the ones shown in the video.
@@d4a I got the speed factory no block notch connecting rods for d16y7 civic engine, my box opens the same way as yours probably same company in China makes them
I had a shop, years ago, where I sold +- 0.5 gram and +- 1/20 gr precission scales... when the almost always young buyers looked confused, I simply asked: for green or for white? ... and everybody was happy...
Rods should also be weight checked end to end-little ends should be very close in weight to one another as should the big ends.We used to check end weights on A series (mini engines)with approx 120hp plus(plus lots of revs- 7k regularly)-more measuring/more accuracy=longer life.I'm sure it's going to be even more important with the hp you're intending.(Obvs we were using OEM rods with a bit of meat on that could be ground away to match-Hopefully forged/machined rods should be really close.)
How and where? How much does that normally cost? If I buy higher end rods do I still need to do that? Shit this $1,200 job is turning into a lot more... I only want to run max 400-450hp in my Mazdaspeed
funny thing is i have a set of these for a 7a with the small end sized for floating wrist pins, and when i got them they came in a plain cardboard box. I really need to start this 7age build one day. I cant wait to see the 4a build
I'm in the same boat. I was just gonna turbo a stock bottom and just slap a g head on it and keep the rpm around 6500 and give it 10 psi and be Happy.... Been sitting on that for 4 years now.
LOL. Loved watching you have fun playing around. From the Peekaboo box to, well, I guess a rod's hole makes a reasonable substitute for a paper towel core telescope!
You should also measure the big end machining tolerance. Big end machining tolerance across axis should not lesser or higher than 0.001. These rods big end machining tolerance is 0.005. That is big difference for a connecting rod. Well-known brands machining tolerance of the big end section is spot on within +/- 0.001. It won't destroy your engine right away but would cause issue for long run.
I bought these rods a few weeks back and checked the big and small end diameter with bore gauge with everything in spec! Nothing different in measurement difference from big brand rods. also balance between rods big and small end are with in spec! Only thing to note is the hole in the bearing cap to the bolt is a little bit big...
Bro, That should be the name of my 394 stroker Hemi rebuild right now! Savings account account is negative, credit for loans maxed out, machine cost, and needing mote parts at the moment. I’m gonna need some for more help...
Like your videos,resently subscribed on your channel. You make it easy to understand keep those videos coming you're one of the best in these kind of vids
Hey I’ve just bought these for a 4age and I’m sending them back look at the counter boring on the holes mine haven’t been reamed at all lots of high points.
I initially got the maxpeeding rods for my Volvo, but I ended up reselling them because the web thickness was inconsistent and the finish was pretty rough, I wasn't comfortable putting them in my 700ft-lb torque Volvo engine build. I ended up going with AUTOVERDI rods. They only do custom rods now after China fakes nearly ruined their reputation.
If that's truely 4340 it's not a bad price, but I only have knowledge of Chevrolet, SBC engine components. I have a balanced rotating assembly, made from 5140, I wouldn't mind next time going with 4340 H- beam rods, but being a 6.3 litre, 385 cid stroker, only revs to 6,500-6,800 , and makes around 650 hp. my next engine will likely be smaller displacement, and rev to 7500+, H beam being lighter, it will work better in high rpm engines, just saying, I know you know this,
Used them in my last 2j, 603rwhp@22psi-825rwhp@36psi e85. No issues. Using them in my current 2j and swapped a set of sr20 rods to my mate for z32 parts 👍 I like these parts.
Yes!! Finally a Person that thinks like me.. this is very true, i owned 3 shops and the true is almost all parts are made in china and rebranded with the company logo, all you need is verify the MATERIAL of the parts and dimentions, thats all. Iphone, Sony, Xbox, Playstation and a lot of companies buy from China and re-look or re-brand.
I can say their coilover are about as good as Megan racing with less adjustability. I use them on a 3000gt with no issues other than a bolt spacer I had to Fab up.
@@az_3kgt714 when it comes to suspension parts i'd much rather have something tested and known to be good quality, it's why i'm just gonna invest in some BC's for my prelude, never underestimate how important tires and suspension are
@@notbilly5962 im just saying from experience ive had megan racing coilovers and these current maxpeeding rods. They really are good ive had no issues with them so far. Right up there with the megan's and i tracked both sets. So you do you not complaining. But for me i would buy another set of these maxpeeding rods they arent bad at all.
more info I'd like to see is how centered are the holes, and what are the dimensions of them, how many thousands are they out of spec? how balanced are they the weight even across them? might need more then vernier calipers for that I think..
What really should be done to be able to judge if these rods are alright: professionally MEASURE straightness, big end roundness, big end taper, small end diameter and proper balance testing, not just putting them on a scale. But I do agree that probably 90% of aftermarket rods are coming from Chinese factories. The real issue with made in china is, when there is no second quality control, because that is the weakest part of made in china. If you want to be sure, check and measure everything, or buy from a reputable brand where this has been done by them.
Again very nice video. To be a viceguy, you should look not only for weight overall, there is a rotating and ozillating mass 😉😉. Wish the best for your built ✌👍👍👍
They come from the same factory in china that alot of 'insert named brand here' come from as well that claim to be made in the USA and alot if other countries..
well they look all conclusive so its torque strength thru will be whatever it is, then just check the clearance, deminsions and weight.... but id weigh em comparative from end to end .... micrometer, digital calipers.
Will do in the future, but I'll be honest with you, I beam vs H beam is far less important than the material and manufacturing processes, these two things play a key part when it comes to strength and both I beam and H beam can be incredibly strong when made properly.
Will be made by Hurricane Performance in China. Hurricane performance manufactures many other brands of forged rods, cranks etc such as eagle, PEC, scat, K1 and many others in Europe and the USA
I've been loking at these rods too, still not sure if I should just stick to my original late bigport rods or upgrade for these when I'm planning to make 4A-GTE with ~250hp.
i'd go for these, just because you can be sure that they can hold and do not destroy your block, but i dont know how much the original rods can hold, but as D4A said, its about the setup and not about the facts of the parts.
Maxpeeding rods as stated on the box are very good. Not a copy of more expensive brands....are the same thing. Company buys them, drills own hole....calls it their own.....they don't make parts like this....not many companies do because the cost to produce it is massive, don't be fooled.
Maxspeedingrods are Rock Solid awesome I recommend them for anything and everything they take a licking you'll destroy a lot more than the rod before the rod is damaged.. over 500 horse on a B series Honda maxspeedingrods Nippon Pistons eBay
Nice preview, sadly they don't make any rods for Mazdaspeed 3/6 :( I would have placed an order just to feel safe, because my Mazdaspeed 6 has a big fat torque curve down low and these engines are bending rods like spaghetti. Imagine having 270Nm torque down low at under 2000rpm on spaghetti rods.
Have you purchased pistons yet? Theres a rising forged piston manufacturer in Russia called Amp44 and they are getting some traction in the BMW world as a budget friendly option for forged pistons. I almost purchased a set but after watching you're video on hypereuretic cast pistons i decided to keep the stock pistons. You should definitely contact them
I was considering maxpeedingrods while rebuilding my 1nzfe for turbo. However there were not much review about them so i purchased molnar rods instead.
I'm curious about the RPM rating. I don't see that on other rods. They say the max RPM rating is 9000. Though they sell rods for the F20C which could rev up to 9200. I'd like to build an K20A, which I would be revving up to 8000/8500. Should I be taking this RPM rating with a grain of salt as well? I do plan on doing endurance racing (lucky dog racing league). So the engine would be running for long periods of time.
i did buy a set of these rods for my 4afe projekt, and a think they look nice, but i sent them back because the 4afe have the piston pins pressed in the rods with press fit, the piston pins just dropped straight tru the maxpeeding rods with no resistance so i could not use them with the 4afe pistons, max rods are 20mm in the small end, the stock are 19.95 ish, the rods did also not have the holes for the piston squirters, and that is not good for the piston temperature and reliability, i belive you have to use 4age pistons and maybe head for valve clarance? to use these rods and drill holes in the rods for the piston squirters or use a 4age block with piston squirters from the oil gallery, unless they have made recent changes on the rods? so the rods i ordered specific for my 4afe were only usable on an 4age
@@d4a the original rod from my 4afe ( and probably yours to) has a hole in the connecting-rod that squirts oil to the piston and cylinder, it does not have squirters like the 4age that takes oli from the oil gallery look at first picture in the link to se the hole www.ebay.com/itm/TOYOTA-ROD-SUB-ASSY-CONNECTING-Celica-Corolla-Tercel-4AC-4AF-4AFE-4ALC-AE71/262919338414?hash=item3d3736b9ae:g:I8QAAOSwi6tdGfs9
Oh that hole, that's different, but you're right, works like a squirter. I expect that sadly many aftermarket rods will omit that due to the added cost of machining it in. These rods look very beefy tho!
yes the rods are beefy, and the hole would make the rod weaker, as well as the hole would (steal) lubrukation from the rod bearing, that is bad at high hp and load
The rods: www.maxpeedingrods.com/Toyota-Corolla-E80-E90-1.6L-4A-GE-122mm-Connecting-Rod-High-Performance-4340-EN24-H-Beam-Conrod.html?tracking=D4A
Use coupon code D4A to get 8% OFF all orders over $200 on maxpeedingrods.com
Become a Tuning Pro: hpcdmy.co/dr4a
Support the channel by shopping through this link: amzn.to/3RIqU0u
Patreon: www.patreon.com/d4a
Would these rods work inside 5A-FE facebook.com/TallyHarry1
Normally an unboxing video wouldn’t be that interesting or informative... but when it’s you and car parts, it’s definitely worth a look! It’s been a while since I saw someone give a level of detail close to what you do here. You really did the research, and read through other people’s testing and research. You discuss many aspects of the product, always with your lovely personality and humour nearby. I’ll admit, I have the negative bias towards products made in China, but you help to correct that with the age-old phrase “you get what you pay for” and with the quality assurance the company has obtained. There are some very premium / luxurious products made in China and we don’t question them despite insane price markups. You’re doing it the right way; researching the products you will use and getting that balance between cost and quality.
I love your videos. Thank you!
I don't know what to say other than thank you for the kind words. Some of my friends and acquaintances would disagree with the lovely personality part, but who cares what they think :)
@@d4a you are a funny man mate, a bit of humour never hurt anyone right ? cheers from Australia :)
I use these rods in my Audi 20vt 5cyl, I'm running 30psi with a 76mm borg warner and spinning over 8000 rpm. They work.
30psi, 76mm, and 8,000 rpms. If you try to tell me this is your driver driver I’m gonna say bullshit, and if it is you’re also my hero🤣
How much hp?
Geez how many hrsprs?
They work great for about a year. Then the little ends flog out.
Been there done that
How are they holding after 3 years? Did they already break?😅😂
I used these rods in my FJ20ET circuit race car engine pushing 500HP with no issues so far. I did have them resized for safety and I filed a small u - shaped groove in the top side of the big end to oil the gudgeon pin. Mine too were within 0.5g. They have been over-reved to 10000RPM, spend their life at 5000 to 8000 RPM and after 4 years I pulled the big end caps off and the bearings were perfect. Good value I reckon.
Thanks for sharing. Plan on using these bad boys
MaXpeedingRods was very awesome with customer service for me. I have a VW Mk3 Cabrio with MaXpeedingRods and I was a bit careless and had dirt in the threads while applying torque to the arp bolts, one of the bolts locked up and I had to use a breaker bar with a jackstand handle to completely break the arp bolt off just so I could free the rod and get it out. I sent them a picture of my mistake and was completely honest how I didn't clear dirt out of the threads and they sent me a new rod free of charge... I have no words... but respect.
I'm using these rods in my VAG 1.8t 20v and I'm very happy with them, great quality stuff and no issues with 3 years of abusement
Abusement: amusing abuse.
What about top end rattle as I know these don't come riffle drilled and 1.8ts need it to oil the small end bushing anything under 2500rpm
huehuehue you're stuff rods in your vag.
sorry I can't help my self lols
Is it still running? Just acquired these rods for my 06a
@@mk4geo822 still running strong , still amusing abuse 😂
We did use maxspeeding rods in 700hp straight six and no problems what so ever.
Did you used the bolts provided by them?
@@jordancespedes15 Yes. Why not.
Came across a thread on vw forums and a guy is claiming he said bolt failure on these rods thats why im asking
Hi, Did you have to balance the bottom end?
@@Streetmodz-Joe No
I was always curious about those rods.
Running these supporting Ross racing pistons in my blueprinted silvertop 4AGTE and no dramas yet.
One more little thing is the hole in the wrist pin side is definitely drilled a bit off center. Otherwise they do look like a good rod for the money! Great overview.
If they can't make sure to drill that hole in the center, can you be sure they took the time to do the rest of the work up to spec?
They are off center so that the oil feed doesn't block the passage (lining)
@@yannisx3209 Talking about 10:51 in other shots the hole seemed centered in the oil feed groove, but not that rod. Don't think it will make an effective difference.
@@freddyrosenberg9288 Depends on what parts of the operation they spend money on. Only way to know is to measure, test, and verify.
I love your no nonsense approach to things, its is very refreshing in a sea of marketing mumbo-jumbo and people jumping on the bandwagon to spout the same nonsense without really thinking about it. I have Maxspeeding Rods suspension on my track car, and despite the hate they get in the car crowd - I'm sure mostly from people who have never even fitted a set - they have held up very well for 4 years, once setup they've been brilliant.
Cool, you have a Mk1 MR2! I used to have the Mk3, that was a great car but I haven't driven the Mk1. I will follow this project.
They look pretty much like the Manley rods I put in my 2.3DISI-T engines (MPS/CX7).
P.S.: don't swap the caps between rods. they have some markings on them, should be easy to pair them back.
7:35 at least 7afe rods hold up to 400hp at 8000rpm - at that point they start to bend (tested with arp bolts) so they are strong enough.. just look on d15/d16 rods, they are thin as pencils and still make 280-300hp.
yeah HP rantings are useless, it depends more on weight of the piston and revolutions and as said by knock
really what engine cam make really depends on ring gap :D and ring gap doesnt depend on mileage
i would say it's more about the peak cylinder pressure than anything else
as rpm increases, piston acceleration (and hence rod stress due purely to mechanical motion, peaking at tdc & bdc) increases with the square of rpm. depending on what rpm you are chasing, there will come a point where these (kinematic?) forces completely overwhelm the stress of cylinder pressure in normal, non-detonating operation. admittedly this is less of an issue now that people make horsepower with boost rather than engine speed, but the limitations from rpm never stop being an issue
www.eng-tips.com/viewthread.cfm?qid=333643
I love how he explains all this and the Brian Crower lightweight rods I have are literally the same… good stuff either way just paid more for them
If the Brian Crower rods are still the same as they were years ago then yes they are same design but the difference is that they are 45 grams lighter that the ones shown in the video.
Let me just get my gram scale. That I have for.... um.... weighing saffron.....
How do you come up with this stuff 🤣
Where can I store the bolts? I know, I'll put them in these little zip lock bags that I have conveniently lying around...
@@d4a I'm guessing he too has a gram scale for.... um.... measuring saffron....
@@d4a I got the speed factory no block notch connecting rods for d16y7 civic engine, my box opens the same way as yours probably same company in China makes them
I had a shop, years ago, where I sold +- 0.5 gram and +- 1/20 gr precission scales... when the almost always young buyers looked confused, I simply asked: for green or for white? ... and everybody was happy...
Rods should also be weight checked end to end-little ends should be very close in weight to one another as should the big ends.We used to check end weights on A series (mini engines)with approx 120hp plus(plus lots of revs- 7k regularly)-more measuring/more accuracy=longer life.I'm sure it's going to be even more important with the hp you're intending.(Obvs we were using OEM rods with a bit of meat on that could be ground away to match-Hopefully forged/machined rods should be really close.)
How and where? How much does that normally cost? If I buy higher end rods do I still need to do that? Shit this $1,200 job is turning into a lot more... I only want to run max 400-450hp in my Mazdaspeed
Great I had looked at these but had my doubts but I think I’ll try them. Thanks
Using this on my EJ25.
These rods are great! Worth it.
funny thing is i have a set of these for a 7a with the small end sized for floating wrist pins, and when i got them they came in a plain cardboard box. I really need to start this 7age build one day. I cant wait to see the 4a build
I'm in the same boat. I was just gonna turbo a stock bottom and just slap a g head on it and keep the rpm around 6500 and give it 10 psi and be Happy.... Been sitting on that for 4 years now.
I know this is an old comment but I've heard of other Chinese companies faking/copying the msr rods
Unboxing is always best when it's not just at Christmas time.
My rear brake calipers are Maxpeeding Rods! They fit perfectly and stop as they should. I got both sides for half the price as 1 OEM.
‘Balanced’ doesn’t just mean they weigh the same. Thanks for the video, was wondering if the brand was any good.
I've had a set of them in my vw 1.8tfor 60k miles now....
how many hp are you running? very aggressive tuning/ torque curve? thanks!
HP Numbers please
LOL. Loved watching you have fun playing around. From the Peekaboo box to, well, I guess a rod's hole makes a reasonable substitute for a paper towel core telescope!
Maxpeeding is a play on the words “Max” and “Speed.” It rolls them together into one word, using the “X” sound to replace the “S” in speed.
Homie got the bud scales
great presentation. clear and informative, and also a great intuition for what are the stupid questions people will want answered
Imma grab me a set of these for my VW engine build this winter.
Running these I’m my 2j. Making 966whp for a year or so
Still going?
I use the same rods in my 4age with Honda b18 turbo nippon piston it hold 25 psi on a gt35 turbo I love it no problem what so ever
Any more info on that? Looks like the b18 pistons have 21mm wrist pin, so did you machine out the rods or are there b18 pistons with 20mm wrist pin?
Gt35, holy cow that is bigger then the Honda motor. Does a Honda motor come with the purchase of that big ass turbo, 🤣🤣🤣🤣
Can you make a video on conrod bearings and oil starvation ?
You should also measure the big end machining tolerance. Big end machining tolerance across axis should not lesser or higher than 0.001. These rods big end machining tolerance is 0.005. That is big difference for a connecting rod. Well-known brands machining tolerance of the big end section is spot on within +/- 0.001. It won't destroy your engine right away but would cause issue for long run.
hey i'm building a super charged 4afe with a SC12 and this will put me on the right path :)
Nice seeing maxpeedingrocs sponsoring the channel, congrats
Can't think of a more deserving UA-camr to have their videos sponsored, shame he lost the aem sponsor
i have over 500hp/640nm on 1.8t 20v and stil hold. so i think this rods are good for this price ;)
Alibaba rods, buy them directly on Alibaba they are cheaper there. You can also chose what they will laser engraving on the rod
Amazing video and a very honest man
I bought these rods a few weeks back and checked the big and small end diameter with bore gauge with everything in spec! Nothing different in measurement difference from big brand rods. also balance between rods big and small end are with in spec! Only thing to note is the hole in the bearing cap to the bolt is a little bit big...
im a noob but have the same engine and same goal so its nice to have someone who knows whats up holding my hand through this
“Project underdog” is the name of every college students project car.
Bro, That should be the name of my 394 stroker Hemi rebuild right now! Savings account account is negative, credit for loans maxed out, machine cost, and needing mote parts at the moment. I’m gonna need some for more help...
Lovely rods im adding to my order
i thing this man is going to put a pretty large turbo on that engine!
Nice, thanks Mr. D4A! Tip top tips!
Like your videos,resently subscribed on your channel.
You make it easy to understand keep those videos coming you're one of the best in these kind of vids
Hey I’ve just bought these for a 4age and I’m sending them back look at the counter boring on the holes mine haven’t been reamed at all lots of high points.
Maxpeeding rods makes some of the cheapest aftermarket suspension with mixed reviews, didn't know they made rods
So the name didn't give you a hint at all?
@@Where_we_go are you mugging me off
I initially got the maxpeeding rods for my Volvo, but I ended up reselling them because the web thickness was inconsistent and the finish was pretty rough, I wasn't comfortable putting them in my 700ft-lb torque Volvo engine build. I ended up going with AUTOVERDI rods. They only do custom rods now after China fakes nearly ruined their reputation.
Are they already balanced and if not why didn’t you go to the machine shop to see if they can be balanced?
Yea that’s like tools that say “assembled in the USA from parts made in China”
If that's truely 4340 it's not a bad price, but I only have knowledge of Chevrolet, SBC engine components. I have a balanced rotating assembly, made from 5140, I wouldn't mind next time going with 4340 H- beam rods, but being a 6.3 litre, 385 cid stroker, only revs to 6,500-6,800 , and makes around 650 hp. my next engine will likely be smaller displacement, and rev to 7500+, H beam being lighter, it will work better in high rpm engines, just saying, I know you know this,
That flaw is exactly what I saw on my set of rods. Can't complain at $165 for a set of 4!
Diy mike built a 10 sec honda with those rods
I just so happened to be looking at all those Chinese rods and was wondering.... Now I might take a closer loook.. thanks for posting
Used them in my last 2j, 603rwhp@22psi-825rwhp@36psi e85. No issues. Using them in my current 2j and swapped a set of sr20 rods to my mate for z32 parts 👍 I like these parts.
the weight from the rod is not only measured in full, but the 2 sides appart for dynamic balancing: this need a special weithing scale with 2 pins...
I just bought those for my d15b Honda turbo built
I would also get some slots machined on the sides of the big end cheeks to spray oil on the underside of the piston
Yes!! Finally a Person that thinks like me.. this is very true, i owned 3 shops and the true is almost all parts are made in china and rebranded with the company logo, all you need is verify the MATERIAL of the parts and dimentions, thats all. Iphone, Sony, Xbox, Playstation and a lot of companies buy from China and re-look or re-brand.
I believe Hoonigans S*it car was sat on Maxpeeding rods coilovers ant they survived everything
From what I've heard their coilovers are utter garbage, but rods seem decent.
I can say their coilover are about as good as Megan racing with less adjustability. I use them on a 3000gt with no issues other than a bolt spacer I had to Fab up.
@@az_3kgt714 when it comes to suspension parts i'd much rather have something tested and known to be good quality, it's why i'm just gonna invest in some BC's for my prelude, never underestimate how important tires and suspension are
@@notbilly5962 im just saying from experience ive had megan racing coilovers and these current maxpeeding rods. They really are good ive had no issues with them so far. Right up there with the megan's and i tracked both sets. So you do you not complaining. But for me i would buy another set of these maxpeeding rods they arent bad at all.
Yeah but Bhalls e46 was on maxpeedingrods coilovers and didnt last 3 months
more info I'd like to see is how centered are the holes, and what are the dimensions of them, how many thousands are they out of spec? how balanced are they the weight even across them?
might need more then vernier calipers for that I think..
Great Video as usual, looking forward to next weeks video🙏🙏🙏
A torque rating on rods would make more sense than a horsepower rating because the torque is what's going to break them.
Very true!
Very detailed and informative, will you be doing the same thing for pistons as well?
You Never disappoint, thanks
What really should be done to be able to judge if these rods are alright: professionally MEASURE straightness, big end roundness, big end taper, small end diameter and proper balance testing, not just putting them on a scale. But I do agree that probably 90% of aftermarket rods are coming from Chinese factories. The real issue with made in china is, when there is no second quality control, because that is the weakest part of made in china. If you want to be sure, check and measure everything, or buy from a reputable brand where this has been done by them.
That’s what I’m saying, take it to a machine shop and see if they can balance it and see if there are any inconsistencies, problem solved.
SO what what is the user experience in the end? did they survive the usage? increased wear, spun bearings, anything odd?
Again very nice video. To be a viceguy, you should look not only for weight overall, there is a rotating and ozillating mass 😉😉. Wish the best for your built ✌👍👍👍
Those rods look exactly like my eagle rods!
Chances are they are the same rod
magnetic0314😶😶😶😶😅
They come from the same factory in china that alot of 'insert named brand here' come from as well that claim to be made in the USA and alot if other countries..
Scat and eagle are mfg in china.. i use eagle
Man I like your channel and you are good from maxpeedingrods i bought same turbo and they are good for what im paying
Nice choice, they can handle a lot of power. Will you need to clearance the block ?
You mean will they hit something? I'll be completely redoing the block, overbore bla bla
Those rods look clean and very good
I use them too... they are nice...
well they look all conclusive so its torque strength thru will be whatever it is, then just check the clearance, deminsions and weight.... but id weigh em comparative from end to end .... micrometer, digital calipers.
I'm surprised, the quality seems good for half price of any other 'fancy' brands.
Would be nice to know about their crank shaft too
i just bought a set because of your video
Can you talk more about H-beam vs I-beam rods?
Will do in the future, but I'll be honest with you, I beam vs H beam is far less important than the material and manufacturing processes, these two things play a key part when it comes to strength and both I beam and H beam can be incredibly strong when made properly.
H-beam for more power!
Will be made by Hurricane Performance in China. Hurricane performance manufactures many other brands of forged rods, cranks etc such as eagle, PEC, scat, K1 and many others in Europe and the USA
The term is " stress riser" .
used these on subaru builds there solid and we know how good boxers are at heeping there rods from exploding
What kind of Subaru build? And how much power? How many miles have you done on the setup?
He he, I like your pronunciation of genuine.
Looks really good.
Good video with true facts.
I've been loking at these rods too, still not sure if I should just stick to my original late bigport rods or upgrade for these when I'm planning to make 4A-GTE with ~250hp.
i'd go for these, just because you can be sure that they can hold and do not destroy your block, but i dont know how much the original rods can hold, but as D4A said, its about the setup and not about the facts of the parts.
Have these in my silvertop 20v turbo in AE95, been very happy with them
Smallport 4agze bottom end will hold well beyond that power level
250hp is a seriously easy target for 4a engines
Just found that channel , better than Netflix 😂😂
Another awesome and informative video. Thank you
Maxpeeding rods as stated on the box are very good.
Not a copy of more expensive brands....are the same thing. Company buys them, drills own hole....calls it their own.....they don't make parts like this....not many companies do because the cost to produce it is massive, don't be fooled.
Maxspeedingrods are Rock Solid awesome I recommend them for anything and everything they take a licking you'll destroy a lot more than the rod before the rod is damaged.. over 500 horse on a B series Honda maxspeedingrods Nippon Pistons eBay
how long has it been running? do you daily it
Also curious about longevity and daily use
Awesome videos! Keep up the good work
If you sand to take the roughness on the rod make sure you shot peen it again. The shot peening is to decrease the stress on the part
thanks for sharing, might get some for my subaru build
Nice preview, sadly they don't make any rods for Mazdaspeed 3/6 :( I would have placed an order just to feel safe, because my Mazdaspeed 6 has a big fat torque curve down low and these engines are bending rods like spaghetti.
Imagine having 270Nm torque down low at under 2000rpm on spaghetti rods.
Honestly, you’re better off with a bigger turbo that doesn’t build build boost till the hire RPM range, I know my brother is doing this right now.
Have you purchased pistons yet? Theres a rising forged piston manufacturer in Russia called Amp44 and they are getting some traction in the BMW world as a budget friendly option for forged pistons. I almost purchased a set but after watching you're video on hypereuretic cast pistons i decided to keep the stock pistons.
You should definitely contact them
Thanks for the heads up man, really appreciate it. I see they don't make anything for the 4a, but I'll get in touch, let's see what they say.
Their price really worth the quality and usable?
I was considering maxpeedingrods while rebuilding my 1nzfe for turbo. However there were not much review about them so i purchased molnar rods instead.
I'm curious about the RPM rating. I don't see that on other rods. They say the max RPM rating is 9000. Though they sell rods for the F20C which could rev up to 9200. I'd like to build an K20A, which I would be revving up to 8000/8500. Should I be taking this RPM rating with a grain of salt as well? I do plan on doing endurance racing (lucky dog racing league). So the engine would be running for long periods of time.
Excellent review.
i did buy a set of these rods for my 4afe projekt, and a think they look nice, but i sent them back because the 4afe have the piston pins pressed in the rods with press fit, the piston pins just dropped straight tru the maxpeeding rods with no resistance so i could not use them with the 4afe pistons, max rods are 20mm in the small end, the stock are 19.95 ish, the rods did also not have the holes for the piston squirters, and that is not good for the piston temperature and reliability, i belive you have to use 4age pistons and maybe head for valve clarance? to use these rods and drill holes in the rods for the piston squirters or use a 4age block with piston squirters from the oil gallery, unless they have made recent changes on the rods?
so the rods i ordered specific for my 4afe were only usable on an 4age
Wait, your 4afe has oil squirters? Does that mean mine does too?
@@d4a the original rod from my 4afe ( and probably yours to) has a hole in the connecting-rod that squirts oil to the piston and cylinder, it does not have squirters like the 4age that takes oli from the oil gallery
look at first picture in the link to se the hole
www.ebay.com/itm/TOYOTA-ROD-SUB-ASSY-CONNECTING-Celica-Corolla-Tercel-4AC-4AF-4AFE-4ALC-AE71/262919338414?hash=item3d3736b9ae:g:I8QAAOSwi6tdGfs9
Oh that hole, that's different, but you're right, works like a squirter. I expect that sadly many aftermarket rods will omit that due to the added cost of machining it in. These rods look very beefy tho!
yes the rods are beefy, and the hole would make the rod weaker, as well as the hole would (steal) lubrukation from the rod bearing, that is bad at high hp and load
just a note - shot peening not only makes the surface clean, but it also work hardens it (think of it as thousands of little hammer blows)
With you removing the little sharp corners makes these rods "finish machined" at home :)
Iam very happy with mine.