Gough Custom As ***** said, your videos are also very helpful and top notch. I really appreciated the thorough testing of various different steels you took the time to do. Keep up the great work!
I've watched this series a couple of times now, when I was a complete beginner uptill now when I'm not a beginner. I notice and learn different things everytime I watch this. When I just started I payed attention to the basics of knife making. Now I'm learning lots of things about finish and details. These videos are good for beginners and advanced knifemakers. Thank you for taking your time to make them, as a begining film maker I know how difficult it can be. Cheers
Thank you so much Walter for sharing your passion and your knowledge of this great profession! Your knowledgeable and easy to follow instructions are very much appreciated! God bless and take care...
Walter thank you for the videos! Really get me interested in trying blade making. Your videos are easy to understand and I have lots of respect thanks!
Very good video as always. Thanks very much. I've been making knives myself off and on for a couple of years, and I like to watch other makers work to see different ways of accomplishing the same things. Please keep up the good work.
Love your videos. You make an excellent instructor and the audio/video quality is high. Everything from production, content, and craftsmanship are nothing short of professional quality. I don't subscribe to many channels any more but I had to make an exception for this one. This type of video is usually sold for profit, so thank you for sharing here!
Very much enjoyed your presentation. I've made a couple knives (stock removal) and a couple which were beaten into shape by my crude blacksmithing. Crude in both situations but surprisingly satisfactory cutting edges (carbon steel of unknown origin, in one instance a set of blacksmith made shears for gardening which had "retired"). Eventually I may get to try something of more "predetermined" quality. I'm quite familiar with belt grinders and have used one for glass work as well, using wet belts which do a fine job.
Dear Walter, As a 13 year old with an interest for knives, hunting - and the like - your work is truly fascinating. I have watched hours on youtube looking for proper advice for knife care and construction, yours are the best. I have 1 question, what do the bolsters do and do you need them? Thank You, Oscar
very nice tutorial ! for making the bolsters line up, you could just shape them to each other(put the pins through with out the blade in the middle, and grind them on the belt grinder)after you drill the holes.
I made the same style as this knife and absolutely love it (cut myself really bad though)regardless, it's beautiful and feels great in the hand and I'm gonna have to add this to my top designs now
Any chance you could remake all your videos using milimetres and centimetres? Seriously though - thank you for the videos they are hands down the best on the internet.
Walter, Thank you for the videos, I have been researching knife making for several months and plan to start sometime after the holidays in January. I'm glad I came across your channel. The videos are very well made and extremely informative. On this particular knife, What was the thickness of the 316 stainless steel that was used for the bolsters?
Sturmgeschutz is 100% correct, that drill bit is going much too fast for effective drilling of stainless. Stainless steel is a terrible conductor of heat, so that heat builds up quickly on the point of the drill bit, making it softer than the steel it is trying to cut. Turn slow, use cutting oil, and draw the bit out regularly to clear the chips. Oh, and NEVER grab the chips or string while the machine is running, it'll deglove your finger in an instant.
Thats what I call a tutorial video. Not a bunch of obnoxious music playing continuously through limited camera shots and high speed time laps. You did a good informative video. But I myself would've had to use 1095 carbon steel...lol. Again, great vid!
You'd have a hard time telling carbon steels apart in use, like 1084, 1095, W1, O1.. you might be able to tell 5160 if it's softer than 59 HRC. A good heat treat on any of them would be great. Also, don't bash stainless steel - most of the time it sucks because they had a shit heat treatment. A good heat treatment on it and you'll find it in nice straight razors. It outperforms carbon steel, hard to argue.
I absolutely admire this fine design knife...the drop point hunter. They look and feel just right. I have a nice one with a 4" blade, partially cold blued, with striped maple scales/3 brass pins, and a very nice leather full-cover sheath. I don't know the type of steel he used. It was made by T Bell. (Maker's mark has a T inside a bell on the ricasso,,as this his name was T. Bell). I love big Bowie knives...and drop point hunters. I carry this big Bowie and Drop Point Hunter, combo as my edc. You make fine blades, Mr. Sorrels! Nice video. Thank you. *Anyone knowing of Mr. T. Bell knife maker/blacksmith/hawk maker, please let me know if he has a website. I can't locate him. I have two of his great tomahawks and one knife. Thanks!
I don't have a fancy heat treating oven, and since I watched your videos I discovered that hardening 440C is a bit more complicated than I thought it would be. I have heard that you can send your knife to a professional heat treating company. I was wondering if you knew of the best places to use and which ones were the least expensive. Thanks.
That Norton belt sure does some quick removal work. Thanks, as always, for the great information! Also, I've noticed on numerous videos that your water cooling container is positioned so that you have to lean down for it. Is it merely placed there for use with multiple grinders, or is there another reason it's farther out of the way?
Hi from Finland. heheh, well this vid is cool enough to be the most warmest viedo on mytupe. all crafting tips are nothing but _goodies_. only one thing bothers me. When you drill (hard steel) and you see "smoke" there is little "cooling problem". More liquid is more miles (here kilometers) whit ur drill bits.
Hello Walter, great channel and great craftsmanship! I have one question: what's your opinion on corrosion risk/ product degrading caused by contact corrosion (contact between steel and for example brass which differ in redox potential)? Have you encountered such phenomena when applying brass pins in carbon steel blades? Thanks for your help!Greetings from Germany! Nils
hey Walter..love all your videos and have learned a lot from you and others. any advice on where I can purchase pre-made damascus? any tips would be great. thanks...and keep teaching us!!!
Finished grinding my first knife, managed to establish a decent grind and plungle line but once I started sanding away all the grind marks, the neck sort of just disappeared and the plungle line got really smooth. Tips on how to preserve crisp sharp lines?
Another question I have, When sanding with water on a carbon steel blade, what is the best way to keep the blade from rusting? I just cleaned it up best I can and did my best to dry it before bringing it indoors but I'm worried once I give it a final polish it's just going to rust really quickly even if I clean it up and bring it inside.
Hey Walter, love the videos sir. I have questions about belt sander belts. You said you use ceramic composite rather than aluminum. We use aluminum composites here at our shop and I’ve noticed on mild/ medium carbon steels, they tend to get hot very quickly and get tempering colors. Is this due to the belts, or am I “leaning” into the belt too much? When I watch you work, it looks like you barely hold your materials against the belt and you don’t get any discoloration. Does that also have to do with your material being stainless steel. There’s so much to consider here so any information would greatly be appreciated. Thank you for your knowledge!
Walter Sorrells hello walter, I want to make a knife, but I am wondering how thick the piece of steel should be... I hope you will answer soon. Thanks tom
I love these videos, they're really helpful for a beginner bladesmith like myself. I have a question about wood types though. I live in New Zealand, and the variety of wood I have access to is quite different to those over in the US. I have Rimu (A native hardwood), Pine, Macrocarpa, Eucalyptus, red/silver/mountain Beech, Birch and a few other assorted varieties at my disposal. Could you recommend any affordable wood types for me to search out?
My sister in law lives in New Zealand and she's given me some really nice things made from NZ wood. I'd really try to use the local wood if I can. But poke around on the internet and you'll find an enormous number of interesting woods
Michael Lamb I enjoy using birch for small carving knives-anything that wont get too beaten up. For some reason, and correct me if I am wrong, but I think you have yew wood in New Zealand? If so, that is a good choice for a knife handle.
Arran Pavelich way down in Invercargill lol, studying mechanical engineering at SIT so that I can be a welder. I do blacksmithing and knifemaking as a hobby :3
Just a note 3xx series steels and 4xx series steels are chemically incomparable in salt water; it will tend to plate the 316 steel and corrode the 420c. Only a problem in salt water environments cor upland deer hunting it will be no problem.
Hey Walter, I'm considering buying a 1"x30" belt grinder, but the belt seems a bit narrow, so I want to know if this width (one inch) would be enough for blades up to 5-6 inches? Thanks.
I'm really new to knife making and im a bit confused with the maximum thickness to grind the bevel to so it doesn't warp when heat treating. would grinding to rufly 1mm be ok or could I remove more.thanks for any help.
Excellent video. Beautiful work. Music gets old quick though. How cheap a belt grinder can you use and still get a decent bevel? Yours looks expensive. =0)
With all of this sanding and with the possibility of being out of square, wouldn't it be much easier to use a mill instead of grinders and sanders? You could eliminate much of the equipment while being able to drill with much more precision.
would 1084 steel work well for a knife like this? i have a couple of weeks off coming up and im planning on making my first knife and figured stock removal was a good place to start so i ordered a length of 1 1/2 x 3/16 1084. I'd probably oil quench it in canola. Thank you:)
1084 is a simple High carbon steel For the intent of using it as a hunting knife? Probably not but for an outdoorsman survival tactical camping knife? absolutely. I would recommend 1095, 5160. O1tool steel for the beginner stock removal/ forging. these steels are easy to get(amazon) easy to work with and easy to heat treat.(heat treat it with a blow torch
Walter I am drilling holes for my bolster on my knife and using 3/32 pins and burning up bits like crazy. My drill press low speed is 500, and I am using a cutting oil. should I just punt the small pins and go with bigger pins (1/8) or is there a trick to it?
For the bolsters...wouldnt it be easier to just make them way oversized... put the holes through using the knife blank hole locations...then put dummy pins in and grind them while clamped together to the same size and from that you want and voila attach to the blank, peen the pins and grind them down to the edge.
Quick question...I was checking your source list and the same piece of 440c (.125" x 1.5") was $9.95 from Texas knife (12") and $91.51 from onlinemetals (24"). I realize the one from onlinemetals is twice the length but why is it almost 5 times the cost? The choice is obvious but am I missing?
+Ryan Belmont Start with an old file. That's some of the best high carbon steel you can find, and you can pick up and old file for nothing. People throw them away.
+Johnnie Blevins I don't recommend the saw blade. (unless it's a much older blade) as new circular saw blades only have the good steel where it's needed. I have not tried lawnmower blades but my instinct is to heat treat. I would recommend using a metal working file as your stock. These are always* some form of high carbon steel and when heat treated properly yield a very hard edge.
MARK 1 According to McMaster-Carr that's about $87.09 for a piece of 440C that's 1' (length) x 1/8" (thick) x 1.25" (width). Yep, this stuff might not be a so called super steel, but it sure as hell comes close in my opinion. According to the specs I see on the charts at McMaster-Carr, it's Rockwell C20 which can be hardened to C60, Yield Strength of 65,000 PSI. I'll make a knife one day, just need a belt sander, and a few other tools like a drill press would be helpful, probably some tungsten carbide drill bits too for the pins.
This is the single best knife making video for beginning knife makers. Thank you Walter for the inspiration!!!!!
Thank you so much for taking the time to make these videos. It's much appreciated.
Nicely made video Walter!
Hey Gough! Fancy seeing you here? :D
Harrison King I do like watching well made videos!
***** Thanks mate! Good to hear!
Gough Custom As ***** said, your videos are also very helpful and top notch. I really appreciated the thorough testing of various different steels you took the time to do. Keep up the great work!
I've watched this series a couple of times now, when I was a complete beginner uptill now when I'm not a beginner. I notice and learn different things everytime I watch this. When I just started I payed attention to the basics of knife making. Now I'm learning lots of things about finish and details. These videos are good for beginners and advanced knifemakers.
Thank you for taking your time to make them, as a begining film maker I know how difficult it can be.
Cheers
Thank you so much Walter for sharing your passion and your knowledge of this great profession! Your knowledgeable and easy to follow instructions are very much appreciated!
God bless and take care...
These are some great techniques shown in a very clear and distinct manner-- kudos Walter!
This video has been incredibly helpful with guiding me through my first knife build!
Thank you Mr Sorrells for a very clear instructions and guides. I think my 1st knife will be a drop point hunting knife.
Walter thank you for the videos! Really get me interested in trying blade making. Your videos are easy to understand and I have lots of respect thanks!
Very good video as always. Thanks very much. I've been making knives myself off and on for a couple of years, and I like to watch other makers work to see different ways of accomplishing the same things. Please keep up the good work.
Love your videos. You make an excellent instructor and the audio/video quality is high. Everything from production, content, and craftsmanship are nothing short of professional quality. I don't subscribe to many channels any more but I had to make an exception for this one. This type of video is usually sold for profit, so thank you for sharing here!
This is a VERY good, instructional video! Thanks for taking the time to share your wealth of knowledge!
Very much enjoyed your presentation. I've made a couple knives (stock removal) and a couple which were beaten into shape by my crude blacksmithing. Crude in both situations but surprisingly satisfactory cutting edges (carbon steel of unknown origin, in one instance a set of blacksmith made shears for gardening which had "retired"). Eventually I may get to try something of more "predetermined" quality. I'm quite familiar with belt grinders and have used one for glass work as well, using wet belts which do a fine job.
I just got a loveless inspired custom from Warren Glover in 440 c with sycamore handles . It’s awesome
Dear Walter,
As a 13 year old with an interest for knives, hunting - and the like - your work is truly fascinating. I have watched hours on youtube looking for proper advice for knife care and construction, yours are the best. I have 1 question, what do the bolsters do and do you need them?
Thank You, Oscar
ok
Bolsters aren't needed but they look pretty nice.
I've heard the bolsters are supposed to protect the end grain of the wooden handle scales...AND they look great too!!!
very nice tutorial !
for making the bolsters line up, you could just shape them to each other(put the pins through with out the blade in the middle, and grind them on the belt grinder)after you drill the holes.
I made the same style as this knife and absolutely love it (cut myself really bad though)regardless, it's beautiful and feels great in the hand and I'm gonna have to add this to my top designs now
Any chance you could remake all your videos using milimetres and centimetres? Seriously though - thank you for the videos they are hands down the best on the internet.
It's a joy to watch your video !
I can see already that this will be a swell knife that I would carry daily!
Walter, Thank you for the videos, I have been researching knife making for several months and plan to start sometime after the holidays in January. I'm glad I came across your channel. The videos are very well made and extremely informative. On this particular knife, What was the thickness of the 316 stainless steel that was used for the bolsters?
I also would like to know the answer to that..
@@gregtaylor555 ea
"Cattywampus"..? Never heard that term. Brilliant!
Key to drilling stainless is high feed and slow speed. It also helps to have the bit sharpened to a shallower angle.
Sturmgeschütz isn't that a German tank Destroyer from WW2?
More of a mobile gun than a tank destroyer yes.
Sturmgeschutz is 100% correct, that drill bit is going much too fast for effective drilling of stainless. Stainless steel is a terrible conductor of heat, so that heat builds up quickly on the point of the drill bit, making it softer than the steel it is trying to cut. Turn slow, use cutting oil, and draw the bit out regularly to clear the chips. Oh, and NEVER grab the chips or string while the machine is running, it'll deglove your finger in an instant.
I agree. Slower spindle speed, and a 135* drill bit helps a lot.
What type of drill bit is most effective on stainless? Cobalt, carbide, or other?
so much fun to watch, to bad i dont have any tools or money to do this things
You don't need expensive tools and money. All you need is time and a file.
DUDE,THAT WAS AWESOME!!!
Thats what I call a tutorial video. Not a bunch of obnoxious music playing continuously through limited camera shots and high speed time laps. You did a good informative video. But I myself would've had to use 1095 carbon steel...lol. Again, great vid!
You'd have a hard time telling carbon steels apart in use, like 1084, 1095, W1, O1.. you might be able to tell 5160 if it's softer than 59 HRC. A good heat treat on any of them would be great. Also, don't bash stainless steel - most of the time it sucks because they had a shit heat treatment. A good heat treatment on it and you'll find it in nice straight razors. It outperforms carbon steel, hard to argue.
Hey Walter, love your posts. Any chance of seeing another series like this for another, different kind of blade?
Love your videos Walter!
I wonder if you've made a video about personal protective equipment especially about the respirator you're using.
Nice inspirational video...... I do love it!
Great vid Walt
" Cattywampus " ....... I love that term !
Mr. Sorrells, I'm a real admirer of your work. How would you feel about making a yataghan??
Fascinating watch
will 5160 coil spring steel work for this type of blade?
I sir, demand part2 of your tutorial on making Damascus
Im not sure demanding is going to encourage him.
Very nice!
I absolutely admire this fine design knife...the drop point hunter. They look and feel just right. I have a nice one with a 4" blade, partially cold blued, with striped maple scales/3 brass pins, and a very nice leather full-cover sheath. I don't know the type of steel he used. It was made by T Bell. (Maker's mark has a T inside a bell on the ricasso,,as this his name was T. Bell).
I love big Bowie knives...and drop point hunters. I carry this big Bowie and Drop Point Hunter, combo as my edc.
You make fine blades, Mr. Sorrels! Nice video. Thank you.
*Anyone knowing of Mr. T. Bell knife maker/blacksmith/hawk maker, please let me know if he has a website. I can't locate him. I have two of his great tomahawks and one knife. Thanks!
I don't have a fancy heat treating oven, and since I watched your videos I discovered that hardening 440C is a bit more complicated than I thought it would be. I have heard that you can send your knife to a professional heat treating company. I was wondering if you knew of the best places to use and which ones were the least expensive. Thanks.
Nice vid thanks for sharing
Cobalt drills specifically made to drill stainless and other hard metals are best for this kind of thing
That Norton belt sure does some quick removal work. Thanks, as always, for the great information!
Also, I've noticed on numerous videos that your water cooling container is positioned so that you have to lean down for it. Is it merely placed there for use with multiple grinders, or is there another reason it's farther out of the way?
Hi from Finland. heheh, well this vid is cool enough to be the most warmest viedo on mytupe. all crafting tips are nothing but _goodies_. only one thing bothers me. When you drill (hard steel) and you see "smoke" there is little "cooling problem". More liquid is more miles (here kilometers) whit ur drill bits.
Hello Walter, great channel and great craftsmanship! I have one question: what's your opinion on corrosion risk/ product degrading caused by contact corrosion (contact between steel and for example brass which differ in redox potential)? Have you encountered such phenomena when applying brass pins in carbon steel blades? Thanks for your help!Greetings from Germany!
Nils
hey Walter..love all your videos and have learned a lot from you and others. any advice on where I can purchase pre-made damascus? any tips would be great. thanks...and keep teaching us!!!
Sweet knife
Great tutorial as always Walter. Question, did you ream or countersink your holes on the bolsters before you peeped them?
Would using an epoxy and clamp to hold the bolsters in place while you drill for the pins work?
Hello Walter ! Thanks for sharing your knowledge. Where could i find a Marking gauge like yours? Looks pretty good 😊
Can I use a regular grinding machine for sharpening blades as well to cut out the blade?
God bless America and long live the republic
Chin Chun Su sootch00 viewer as well?
PANDREW AVELAR yep!
Finished grinding my first knife, managed to establish a decent grind and plungle line but once I started sanding away all the grind marks, the neck sort of just disappeared and the plungle line got really smooth. Tips on how to preserve crisp sharp lines?
Another question I have, When sanding with water on a carbon steel blade, what is the best way to keep the blade from rusting? I just cleaned it up best I can and did my best to dry it before bringing it indoors but I'm worried once I give it a final polish it's just going to rust really quickly even if I clean it up and bring it inside.
Hey Walter, love the videos sir. I have questions about belt sander belts. You said you use ceramic composite rather than aluminum. We use aluminum composites here at our shop and I’ve noticed on mild/ medium carbon steels, they tend to get hot very quickly and get tempering colors. Is this due to the belts, or am I “leaning” into the belt too much? When I watch you work, it looks like you barely hold your materials against the belt and you don’t get any discoloration. Does that also have to do with your material being stainless steel. There’s so much to consider here so any information would greatly be appreciated. Thank you for your knowledge!
I have a 6in bench grinder and I was wondering the best way to create bevels with this tool .
Walter Sorrells hello walter, I want to make a knife, but I am wondering how thick the piece of steel should be... I hope you will answer soon. Thanks tom
I love these videos, they're really helpful for a beginner bladesmith like myself. I have a question about wood types though. I live in New Zealand, and the variety of wood I have access to is quite different to those over in the US. I have Rimu (A native hardwood), Pine, Macrocarpa, Eucalyptus, red/silver/mountain Beech, Birch and a few other assorted varieties at my disposal. Could you recommend any affordable wood types for me to search out?
My sister in law lives in New Zealand and she's given me some really nice things made from NZ wood. I'd really try to use the local wood if I can. But poke around on the internet and you'll find an enormous number of interesting woods
Remember to use protection, the wood dust is quite toxic if you use rimu
Michael Lamb I enjoy using birch for small carving knives-anything that wont get too beaten up. For some reason, and correct me if I am wrong, but I think you have yew wood in New Zealand? If so, that is a good choice for a knife handle.
+Michael Lamb yaaahh go new zealand!!
where abouts are you in nz, I'm in wellington...?
Arran Pavelich way down in Invercargill lol, studying mechanical engineering at SIT so that I can be a welder. I do blacksmithing and knifemaking as a hobby :3
Thank u!
Just a note 3xx series steels and 4xx series steels are chemically incomparable in salt water; it will tend to plate the 316 steel and corrode the 420c. Only a problem in salt water environments cor upland deer hunting it will be no problem.
Have you ever put a stacked leather handle on a drop point hunter?
Sir, when I grow up I want to be just like you!!!!!
Hey Walter, I'm considering buying a 1"x30" belt grinder, but the belt seems a bit narrow, so I want to know if this width (one inch) would be enough for blades up to 5-6 inches?
Thanks.
Nice
I'm really new to knife making and im a bit confused with the maximum thickness to grind the bevel to so it doesn't warp when heat treating. would grinding to rufly 1mm be ok or could I remove more.thanks for any help.
The steel I used when first making a knife is 1095 carbonsteel. I am sure saying it was a great decision.
Excellent video. Beautiful work. Music gets old quick though. How cheap a belt grinder can you use and still get a decent bevel? Yours looks expensive. =0)
Thank u
Great videos. How did you get Ray Liotta from Goodfellas to narrate?
Roose Bolton Alert!
It's so hard to find specific types of metal to buy in the UK, could someone help me on where to find 440C stainless steel?
Take d2 toolsteel👍
I don't know if i missed it, but what is the name and purpose of the hole at the base of the blade in the plunge grind?
Those are for ease of sharpening so you don't run up against the side of the stone
How do you sharpen a curved blade like a karambit?
Can you use a normal grinder?
With all of this sanding and with the possibility of being out of square, wouldn't it be much easier to use a mill instead of grinders and sanders?
You could eliminate much of the equipment while being able to drill with much more precision.
400 series stainless is in fact magnetic
would 1084 steel work well for a knife like this? i have a couple of weeks off coming up and im planning on making my first knife and figured stock removal was a good place to start so i ordered a length of 1 1/2 x 3/16 1084. I'd probably oil quench it in canola. Thank you:)
1084 is a simple High carbon steel For the intent of using it as a hunting knife? Probably not but for an outdoorsman survival tactical camping knife? absolutely.
I would recommend 1095, 5160. O1tool steel for the beginner stock removal/ forging. these steels are easy to get(amazon) easy to work with and easy to heat treat.(heat treat it with a blow torch
Walter I am drilling holes for my bolster on my knife and using 3/32 pins and burning up bits like crazy. My drill press low speed is 500, and I am using a cutting oil. should I just punt the small pins and go with bigger pins (1/8) or is there a trick to it?
are you using cobalt bits?
hello how do you make a stonewashed blade please make a video on this thank you
For the bolsters, can i use the 440c stainless steel i have aready?
Hy, can i use 316 for making a blade instead of 440C. ty
What kind of drill bits do you use?
Does anyone have a video of how to make a folding bird knife with the gut hook?
For the bolsters...wouldnt it be easier to just make them way oversized... put the holes through using the knife blank hole locations...then put dummy pins in and grind them while clamped together to the same size and from that you want and voila attach to the blank, peen the pins and grind them down to the edge.
I would like to have a kitchen knife, like Japanese style. Let me know if you can do it
Great looking knife. I thought stainless steel was non magnetic?
Quick question...I was checking your source list and the same piece of 440c (.125" x 1.5") was $9.95 from Texas knife (12") and $91.51 from onlinemetals (24"). I realize the one from onlinemetals is twice the length but why is it almost 5 times the cost? The choice is obvious but am I missing?
go with the cheaper one? 440c is 440c
+mattbaker333 I bought 72" / 6 feet from Admiral steel for $85.44 delivered. 1 1/2 x 3/16
13:01 Am I crazy or do I hear a windows 7 noise?
Also, great video! Thank you Walter :)
is 300 serie stanlis ok for knife making
What kind of wood is that handle??
a quick question, do you do knife templates
you didn't say how thick the bolsters are, are the 1x8"?
+james spears he said when beginning to drill them
I have no experience with knife making and I dont want to by expensive steel and have the knife not turn out. any advice
+Ryan Belmont Materials are cheap. The work involved is the real cost here. But you just have to jump in and try it. You'll never know till you try.
+Walter Sorrells thanks.
Mike McCulloch thanks
+Ryan Belmont I get 3 feet of 5160 steel for $5
+Ryan Belmont Start with an old file. That's some of the best high carbon steel you can find, and you can pick up and old file for nothing. People throw them away.
how much was your pillar drill
where did you get your steel
Where do you buy your wood ?
if i use a circular saw or lawnmower blade do i need to heat treat
+Johnnie Blevins I don't recommend the saw blade. (unless it's a much older blade) as new circular saw blades only have the good steel where it's needed.
I have not tried lawnmower blades but my instinct is to heat treat. I would recommend using a metal working file as your stock. These are always* some form of high carbon steel and when heat treated properly yield a very hard edge.
How width is the metal?
Where did you buy your 440C Steel? How thick of a piece did you buy?
1/8 inch thick
Harrison King
awesome, thanks.
MARK 1 According to McMaster-Carr that's about $87.09 for a piece of 440C that's 1' (length) x 1/8" (thick) x 1.25" (width). Yep, this stuff might not be a so called super steel, but it sure as hell comes close in my opinion. According to the specs I see on the charts at McMaster-Carr, it's Rockwell C20 which can be hardened to C60, Yield Strength of 65,000 PSI. I'll make a knife one day, just need a belt sander, and a few other tools like a drill press would be helpful, probably some tungsten carbide drill bits too for the pins.
where do you buy your Coby fassener?
Nice video but really wish you would have used high carbon, plain carbon steel instead of stainless.
The process is almost the same.
Loveless is the name of the villain from the movie "Wild Wild West" with Will Smith.
Ben N wild wild smiff