If it will be something that is exposed to water I definitely think the latex/acrylic additive is the way to go as it will help prevent water intrusion and will not re-emulsify like a PVA product can. You do need to check your other mix ingredients and admixtures to make sure there are no conflicting things.
I realize this is a couple of years old... I follow your content closely. But I've just today finished ALL of the lightweight playlist. If you read this, I have to wonder if a "modified" mixture such as this one with PVA and fibers would benefit from increased slump. I know you dislike excessive water, but the addition of a super-plasticizer would definitely increase slump and encourage consolidation. Add to that a vibrating element during placement and you would have the "ultimate" test bed for your light weight mixtures. I would think it would definitely benefit the strength/weight ratio. (AND, I know you use and advocate for admixtures..!!) Like I said --- If you see this, tell me what you think.
Those vodeos are very helpful, thank you very much, first of all. My question is, can Perlite be mixed with ready to use concrete mix to make lightweight concrete? Kind regards
Loving your vids! Could you use fibreglass to carbon fibre cloth layered in middle of concrete? E.g to make lightweight table? Could you polish it? Cheers Scott
I feel like there would be concern for too much flex if the concrete very thin. I think flex would bake exposing and polishing difficult. You could pour upside down on plastic and have the finished product very thin. That might work. You will likely get cracks but then the tension from the cloth embedded kicks in. So that could be a concern for how it looks.
Hi! very interesting tests! have you ever tried to add a bamboo mesh in to it?I started using bamboo mesh to save some money and I ended up building skateramps with it and increase a lot the strength . you should make a test video of it. it would be cool . Thanks bro!
Thank you for your excellent tests. I will make some tests for an idea of cement/perlite panels. Could you please inform me what is the sizes of the perlite you use? It looks like you are using a medium size (0.8-1.2). Have you tried mixing cement with coarse perlite?
Great series, thanks! I'm assuming your mix ratios are by volume? I need to make 4 different shaped blocks for gutter downspout covers that appear to be natural stone. Biggest is 36" x 22" and the visible edge needs to be 3 1/2" thick. Better to make them full thickness or pad the inside like a foundation chainwall? 20 years ago I'd have bought flagstone and chipped it to fit, but advanced age prevents that option...
For something that will have constant water erosion I would be looking at full strength, full weight concrete. The lightweight mixes would very likely erode from the passage of water even with use of a sealer. If you want to do this project one time and one time only, use full strength.
@@creatingconcrete Thanks for the reply. If I've got to wrestle 300 pound chunks of rock, I'll just go with the flagstone and hire some help. Your articles are inspiring though!
These have been very interesting tests to watch, thank you for these tests, I know they take up a bit of time and cost. I know it would not be "lightweight" but I wonder if you needed something with additional strength and maintain thinness (is that a word?) how something like non-shrink precision grout would do compared to the control? Is that something you would consider testing?
I am happy to try all mixes. I think a non-shrink grout might not be ideal as you would not normally use it on its own for casting, but it still could produce interesting results.
@@creatingconcrete I don't disagree that it may end up being worse when used to make a thinner than normal concrete casting, but I know it's listed as being over twice as strong as most common mixes when prepared with the water to mixture ratios they provide. Thanks for the reply.
@@paulprobusjr.7597 Also it is notable that non-shrink grout is very rare in that it, well, doesn't shrink. The only other concrete product that I am aware of that does this is heavily modified hydraulic "quick stop" cement which sets up fast enough you can use it underwater or plug actively moving water with it. Non-shrink grout is commonly used in construction for bonding dowels and anchors. Epoxy works well but requires dry conditions that are hard to achieve at the bottom of an 18" dowel hole. Non shrink grout goes in, then the rebar, and because it expands it creates a grab / purchase / anchor point not possible with other mix designs. I also think that the Cement-all product that most casters seem to use is actually a non shrink grout also. If this is the case then definitely it can be used for larger (thicker) castings, because so many people already use Cement-all and if it was a problem you would know by now from others.
@@creatingconcrete I have also seen it used for housekeeping pads under heavy vibrating machines, like stationary generators, air compressors, air handling units, etc. And I believe it is used as a "dry pack" when supporting bricks and block walls when you have to cut holes through them (like installing new ductwork, etc.). Given those uses, I thought perhaps it has better flexural strength (in addition to better compressive strength), which I believe is what you are testing. I wondered if it would be a better choice when you need a thin section that perhaps spans a longer distance than would be adviseable for your control.
Do you know how to make concrete panel i see someone can makeit 2-3 mm, him say mixture clay , sement and mesh . I need just to make decoration pattern on wall for my house or make panel strong but look like a wood
Stucco mesh and plaster mix is common for housing finishes where I am located. It is a parge layer only just slightly thicker than the diamond / stucco lathe.
Would the vermiculite to Portland Cement mix with PVA and fiber be strong enough for a mosaic fire pit table top? Or should I use a Quickcrete mix? This is for a 6' diameter table with a 24" firepit opening in the center.
I do not think it will be strong enough. Any of these lightweight mixes are just a tiny fraction of the strength of even a moderately strong pre bagged mix
Watched all these, and annoying that you didn't just keep adding them to the board so they were all instantly comparable. Really wish you would have tried some of the aircrete as Man About Tools did.
I did try the aircrete but none of the test blocks made it to the final table. They all broke before I could get them to testing. Sorry you did not like my format. These videos are just the first entries in this series. I plan to wrap everything up at the end, but I appreciate your feedback.
Yes, but if you mix perlite into a concrete mix or vermiculite into a concrete mix you will both see and feel a stark difference with how they absorb water and integrate into the mix, with the verm integrating fast and well, with the perlite integrating slowly and not completely in many cases.
Thanks for doing these comparisons! Very interesting
I am happy that you find this content helpful. More to come!
I tried perlite and found it worked better to mix when i presoaked the perlite in water.
Cool, tests… would pva be appropriate for outdoor use or would sika latex be a better choice? I’ve never used pva in concrete on latex r…
If it will be something that is exposed to water I definitely think the latex/acrylic additive is the way to go as it will help prevent water intrusion and will not re-emulsify like a PVA product can. You do need to check your other mix ingredients and admixtures to make sure there are no conflicting things.
I realize this is a couple of years old... I follow your content closely. But I've just today finished ALL of the lightweight playlist. If you read this, I have to wonder if a "modified" mixture such as this one with PVA and fibers would benefit from increased slump. I know you dislike excessive water, but the addition of a super-plasticizer would definitely increase slump and encourage consolidation. Add to that a vibrating element during placement and you would have the "ultimate" test bed for your light weight mixtures. I would think it would definitely benefit the strength/weight ratio. (AND, I know you use and advocate for admixtures..!!)
Like I said --- If you see this, tell me what you think.
Those vodeos are very helpful, thank you very much, first of all.
My question is, can Perlite be mixed with ready to use concrete mix to make lightweight concrete?
Kind regards
Loving your vids! Could you use fibreglass to carbon fibre cloth layered in middle of concrete? E.g to make lightweight table? Could you polish it? Cheers Scott
I feel like there would be concern for too much flex if the concrete very thin. I think flex would bake exposing and polishing difficult. You could pour upside down on plastic and have the finished product very thin. That might work. You will likely get cracks but then the tension from the cloth embedded kicks in. So that could be a concern for how it looks.
Hi! very interesting tests! have you ever tried to add a bamboo mesh in to it?I started using bamboo mesh to save some money and I ended up building skateramps with it and increase a lot the strength . you should make a test video of it. it would be cool . Thanks bro!
Thank you for your excellent tests. I will make some tests for an idea of cement/perlite panels. Could you please inform me what is the sizes of the perlite you use? It looks like you are using a medium size (0.8-1.2). Have you tried mixing cement with coarse perlite?
Great series, thanks! I'm assuming your mix ratios are by volume? I need to make 4 different shaped blocks for gutter downspout covers that appear to be natural stone. Biggest is 36" x 22" and the visible edge needs to be 3 1/2" thick. Better to make them full thickness or pad the inside like a foundation chainwall? 20 years ago I'd have bought flagstone and chipped it to fit, but advanced age prevents that option...
For something that will have constant water erosion I would be looking at full strength, full weight concrete. The lightweight mixes would very likely erode from the passage of water even with use of a sealer. If you want to do this project one time and one time only, use full strength.
@@creatingconcrete Thanks for the reply. If I've got to wrestle 300 pound chunks of rock, I'll just go with the flagstone and hire some help. Your articles are inspiring though!
i need to plug a 20 foot verticle 6 inch pipe..
what is the lightest mix i can use
What about using aluminum rebar to lower the weight?
These have been very interesting tests to watch, thank you for these tests, I know they take up a bit of time and cost. I know it would not be "lightweight" but I wonder if you needed something with additional strength and maintain thinness (is that a word?) how something like non-shrink precision grout would do compared to the control? Is that something you would consider testing?
I am happy to try all mixes. I think a non-shrink grout might not be ideal as you would not normally use it on its own for casting, but it still could produce interesting results.
@@creatingconcrete I don't disagree that it may end up being worse when used to make a thinner than normal concrete casting, but I know it's listed as being over twice as strong as most common mixes when prepared with the water to mixture ratios they provide. Thanks for the reply.
@@paulprobusjr.7597 Also it is notable that non-shrink grout is very rare in that it, well, doesn't shrink. The only other concrete product that I am aware of that does this is heavily modified hydraulic "quick stop" cement which sets up fast enough you can use it underwater or plug actively moving water with it. Non-shrink grout is commonly used in construction for bonding dowels and anchors. Epoxy works well but requires dry conditions that are hard to achieve at the bottom of an 18" dowel hole. Non shrink grout goes in, then the rebar, and because it expands it creates a grab / purchase / anchor point not possible with other mix designs. I also think that the Cement-all product that most casters seem to use is actually a non shrink grout also. If this is the case then definitely it can be used for larger (thicker) castings, because so many people already use Cement-all and if it was a problem you would know by now from others.
@@creatingconcrete I have also seen it used for housekeeping pads under heavy vibrating machines, like stationary generators, air compressors, air handling units, etc. And I believe it is used as a "dry pack" when supporting bricks and block walls when you have to cut holes through them (like installing new ductwork, etc.). Given those uses, I thought perhaps it has better flexural strength (in addition to better compressive strength), which I believe is what you are testing. I wondered if it would be a better choice when you need a thin section that perhaps spans a longer distance than would be adviseable for your control.
Great informative videos. Do you use a acid resistant fiber glass?
Please try this with liquid glass added to it, it sets faster, and sticks to tools but try plz
Do you know how to make concrete panel i see someone can makeit 2-3 mm, him say mixture clay , sement and mesh . I need just to make decoration pattern on wall for my house or make panel strong but look like a wood
You need a rubber stamp if you’re putting on wall it would be easier anyways!!
Yes but what i confuse him say that wall decor from cement clay or stone but can bend without any heat just bend and the stone one can be lamp
Stucco mesh and plaster mix is common for housing finishes where I am located. It is a parge layer only just slightly thicker than the diamond / stucco lathe.
Doesnt the vermiculite water absorption ruin the curing process for the cement?
No it helps it. It provides moisture for the cement to steal over the curing process.
Would the vermiculite to Portland Cement mix with PVA and fiber be strong enough for a mosaic fire pit table top? Or should I use a Quickcrete mix? This is for a 6' diameter table with a 24" firepit opening in the center.
I do not think it will be strong enough. Any of these lightweight mixes are just a tiny fraction of the strength of even a moderately strong pre bagged mix
Watched all these, and annoying that you didn't just keep adding them to the board so they were all instantly comparable.
Really wish you would have tried some of the aircrete as Man About Tools did.
I did try the aircrete but none of the test blocks made it to the final table. They all broke before I could get them to testing. Sorry you did not like my format. These videos are just the first entries in this series. I plan to wrap everything up at the end, but I appreciate your feedback.
Perlite being water repelant makes no sense. Perlite and vermiculite have very similar use in agriculture, which is water retention in soil.
Yes, but if you mix perlite into a concrete mix or vermiculite into a concrete mix you will both see and feel a stark difference with how they absorb water and integrate into the mix, with the verm integrating fast and well, with the perlite integrating slowly and not completely in many cases.