I'm a long time subscriber / lurker and have never commented before now. Thanks for adding your voice, sir. It adds a new dimension to the incredible array of skills and experience you offer within every single video. Valuable!
The "correct" way is known as conventional milling; while the "incorrect" way [that produces a better surface finish] is known as climb milling. This effect works identically on a milling machine (using HSS or carbide cutters). All manual machines have ~some~ backlash (which will either wreck your part or break the cutter, depending on the size of cut being made), which is why conventional is mostly recommended. Climb always gives a superior finish and is actually better on cutter life; which is why it's common in CNC work (and because they utilize ball leadscrews, which eliminate backlash).
Man, you're a bundle of talent, no question about it. Thanks for your terrific videos, they've helped me a great deal. I also really enjoy your verbal moderation, really helps to enhance your teaching methodology. Thanks so much!
Nice tips. I use my router table for this. the back fence helps lot. I also dress my bits with a diamond lapping stone to keep them sharp. I also hook up my shop vac to gather all of the chips so things don't get so messy.
I've found with the cordless routers and general fab if I rough cut first and either go fast and try not to dig or use my glove hand as a sort of guide you can keep the router bit the same depth and then run the "wrong" way on the way back you can avoid the digging and grabbing of the part. Works great when routering stationary parts like boat chines, frames, windows. Etc.
Great tips on the router Aaron. I love my little trim router and small pneumatic chamfer tool. Use both of them on steel and aluminum. Fast and effective.
I've used a pattern cutting bit on 1/8" aluminum, it was perfect. Made pattern from 1/4" MDF to cut these precision openings. Swarf was glitter, shiny on one side and frosted on the other.
Dude.... just a dam nice video. Reminds me of when I machined beadlock rings, and bolt in wheel centers out of 3/8 aluminum with a carbide single flute wood bit on a ShopBot cnc router table LMAO It took for ever to do but they turned out awesome!
I am willing to wager that the "grab" probably is much less when all corners have already been cut. Good trick sharing. Stuff like this doesn't make it out of veneer and sheet metal fab shops.
Yeah that works great! We used a similar contraption to deburr parts off the mill and for weld prepping with carbide bits, chews right trough stainless too if you take it slower. Fast and easy and the consumables are cheap. And if you go the wrong way make sure there is nothing in the flight path of the thing. lol I'd kinda recommend to not wear gloves tho... Better to have a tiny bit of the fingernail cut off than the thing pulled into the bit :|
Thank you. This method works great! And... after buying your TIG Button, I cuss less 😄 and make better welds. Being able to navigate around a project without the peddle-anchor is PERFECT! 💯
Handy tool that! Ive got something similar at work. I use a pneumatic die grinder, usually on steel but i do have a bit that'll do aluminum. The die grinder is marginally safer cause if i make a mistake it stops really easy.
not a machinist but a knew it since a looooong time, big thanks to @thatlazymachinist 🤩he's explaining why exactly : the "right way" begins the chip thin and ends it thick resulting an ugly finish, hard to chip for the machine but safer for the guy because the piece is sucked in. the "wrong way" does the exact oppsite. be careful !
I wonder how I can attach a clamp to hold instead of just the bare metal ... hrmmm tough because it's flat oh the table not much you can do about that. Thanks for the testing!!
Very nice chamfers.. heres something you might find helpful.. rather than using wd40 try some "drylube" that has very fine Teflon powder in it.. just shake it really good to ensure a homogenous mixture where the teflon powder is evenly distributed throughout. Then let it dry completely.. .it usually lasts a long time when i use carbide burrs on aluminum and it will basically eliminates the greasy slurry of chips. Hope someone else finds this useful. Ive had good success personally.. at least i think thsts the case.. lol.
I've heard it 1,000 times. This particular piece has sharp edges. If you don't feel like you have enough control to keep gloves out of the cutting bit, then don't wear gloves. I wear gloves because I know exactly where I can and can't put my hands/gloves. If you try to replicate this without gloves, I suggest you hand file ALL the edges to remove the sharp edges before chamfering on the router table. If you go straight to the router table bare handed with the sharp edges, you will get cut gripping the part.
FYI, you can get a handheld pneumatic chamfering tool for quite cheap thats much easier to use and leaves a much better finish than a typical router. You can even do very thin sheet and small holes down to about 6mm with them. You can get corner rounding inserts for them as well.
Thanks, Those tools have their place, but you won't get nearly as consistent of a cut on smaller parts like in this example. It would be too wobbly. You'd be all over the place trying to chamfer the parts I show in the first of the video. Another option would be to just unscrew the 4 screws that hold the laminate trimmer up under the table and use it exactly like one of those pneumatic tools. Put whatever bits you want in it...
@@6061 Yeah, I guess for some. I've never had an issue with them being wobbly for similar parts. They do take some practice, just as the router example does. I have used a router just the same, and after having the pneumatic one I will never use a router again. Unless its just too big of a chamfer for it, then I guess a router would do if I cant do it on the mill. To each their own.
Don’t know why I’d ever use this, but now I know. I use aluminum on occasion but I’m a truck driver not a fabricator so nothing I’m making matters visually, I just prefer to keep the weight down when I’m making a mount for something on/in the truck.
“Backcut” in the furniture making industry is a small secret when you want a flawless finish, especially when routering veneered plywood/board etc., far less to zero tear out on long grain and end grain. It’s not “really” that dangerous, you just need to know what you are doing.
Scotchbrite absolutely ruins the finish on nice aluminum. Never use abrasives for finish on aluminum unless its an old piece of scrap you need to clean up, or you want a brushed appearance ..and even then it looks like dog doo. Thats a total noob move.
For larger parts, maybe. Personally, I see no benefit using one when chamfering small/medium sized parts like in this example. The bearing bolt on the router bit is taller than the thickness of the aluminum being cut. That means you'd have to reposition the push block several times to cut around the entire part (tedious and time consuming). And you can't use a push block to do the 3/8" long corners (when standing the part up vertically). It comes down to personal preference. For me, It wouldn't make the task any easier/safer. And of course the safety conversation will come up, so I'll address that too: Depending on skill level, for you it may be safer/easier to use a push block, but if you are experienced, alert, and mindful of what you are doing at all times, it may not be necessary. Everyone stay safe and work within your own limits.
I'm a long time subscriber / lurker and have never commented before now.
Thanks for adding your voice, sir. It adds a new dimension to the incredible array of skills and experience you offer within every single video.
Valuable!
I sure hope there are some younger generations leaning from this. Priceless.
Learn how to TIG Weld and fabricate with ALUMINUM here: www.6061.com
Thanks for watching
The "correct" way is known as conventional milling; while the "incorrect" way [that produces a better surface finish] is known as climb milling.
This effect works identically on a milling machine (using HSS or carbide cutters). All manual machines have ~some~ backlash (which will either wreck your part or break the cutter, depending on the size of cut being made), which is why conventional is mostly recommended. Climb always gives a superior finish and is actually better on cutter life; which is why it's common in CNC work (and because they utilize ball leadscrews, which eliminate backlash).
Well, on a milling machine, you can tighten the wedge and the jerk will not be noticeable.
Nice to know I’m not the only one lol but yes be warned it will chuck a part at Mach 69 across the shop
Nice
Man, you're a bundle of talent, no question about it. Thanks for your terrific videos, they've helped me a great deal. I also really enjoy your verbal moderation, really helps to enhance your teaching methodology.
Thanks so much!
Nice tips. I use my router table for this. the back fence helps lot. I also dress my bits with a diamond lapping stone to keep them sharp. I also hook up my shop vac to gather all of the chips so things don't get so messy.
I've found with the cordless routers and general fab if I rough cut first and either go fast and try not to dig or use my glove hand as a sort of guide you can keep the router bit the same depth and then run the "wrong" way on the way back you can avoid the digging and grabbing of the part. Works great when routering stationary parts like boat chines, frames, windows. Etc.
Great tips on the router Aaron. I love my little trim router and small pneumatic chamfer tool. Use both of them on steel and aluminum. Fast and effective.
I've used a pattern cutting bit on 1/8" aluminum, it was perfect. Made pattern from 1/4" MDF to cut these precision openings.
Swarf was glitter, shiny on one side and frosted on the other.
Dude.... just a dam nice video. Reminds me of when I machined beadlock rings, and bolt in wheel centers out of 3/8 aluminum with a carbide single flute wood bit on a ShopBot cnc router table LMAO It took for ever to do but they turned out awesome!
I am willing to wager that the "grab" probably is much less when all corners have already been cut. Good trick sharing. Stuff like this doesn't make it out of veneer and sheet metal fab shops.
Great video and advice as always big thanks for the tip👍👍
You are right, I use this same technique works perfectly 👍
Yeah that works great! We used a similar contraption to deburr parts off the mill and for weld prepping with carbide bits, chews right trough stainless too if you take it slower. Fast and easy and the consumables are cheap. And if you go the wrong way make sure there is nothing in the flight path of the thing. lol
I'd kinda recommend to not wear gloves tho... Better to have a tiny bit of the fingernail cut off than the thing pulled into the bit :|
Thank you. This method works great! And... after buying your TIG Button, I cuss less 😄 and make better welds. Being able to navigate around a project without the peddle-anchor is PERFECT! 💯
Lot's of great info on here. Thanks :)
Handy tool that! Ive got something similar at work. I use a pneumatic die grinder, usually on steel but i do have a bit that'll do aluminum. The die grinder is marginally safer cause if i make a mistake it stops really easy.
Good stuff- thanks for the tips.
Great info!
First time I've heard you talk! Seems really odd hearing your voice. Great video as always.
Great work sir ❤😊😊❤
Making Aluminum Great Again ...
Thanks Aaron . Been awhile Al. Master . :)
Nice work
not a machinist but a knew it since a looooong time, big thanks to @thatlazymachinist 🤩he's explaining why exactly : the "right way" begins the chip thin and ends it thick resulting an ugly finish, hard to chip for the machine but safer for the guy because the piece is sucked in. the "wrong way" does the exact oppsite. be careful !
Thanks for sharing👌👌
Great info
love ur vids
In terms of safety all of this sounds so wrong... but the results are amazing! As long as you feel it's safe enough, it's safe enough :)
I wonder how I can attach a clamp to hold instead of just the bare metal ... hrmmm tough because it's flat oh the table not much you can do about that. Thanks for the testing!!
Ive done that with a hand held router.
whoa! I have watched so many of 6061 videos... I have never heard his voice before! only seen that white ass elite helmet lol
Very nice chamfers.. heres something you might find helpful.. rather than using wd40 try some "drylube" that has very fine Teflon powder in it.. just shake it really good to ensure a homogenous mixture where the teflon powder is evenly distributed throughout. Then let it dry completely.. .it usually lasts a long time when i use carbide burrs on aluminum and it will basically eliminates the greasy slurry of chips. Hope someone else finds this useful. Ive had good success personally.. at least i think thsts the case.. lol.
Yeah man no doubt, little Bosch pony trim router awesome for aluminum
Have a look at 'de-gloving injury', just not around dinner time. Hint, gloves are a bad idea...
I've heard it 1,000 times.
This particular piece has sharp edges.
If you don't feel like you have enough control to keep gloves out of the cutting bit, then don't wear gloves.
I wear gloves because I know exactly where I can and can't put my hands/gloves.
If you try to replicate this without gloves, I suggest you hand file ALL the edges to remove the sharp edges before chamfering on the router table. If you go straight to the router table bare handed with the sharp edges, you will get cut gripping the part.
the hot tip is to use a foot pedal...great video...
So final pass is opposite direction WITHOUT changing the height of the cutter. Thank you.
FYI, you can get a handheld pneumatic chamfering tool for quite cheap thats much easier to use and leaves a much better finish than a typical router. You can even do very thin sheet and small holes down to about 6mm with them. You can get corner rounding inserts for them as well.
This is also alot safer than wearing gloves while using a router table...
Please show us all a link to the exact tool you are referring to.
@@6061 they are all over Amazon and eBay from different brands for like 40 bucks.
Thanks,
Those tools have their place, but you won't get nearly as consistent of a cut on smaller parts like in this example. It would be too wobbly. You'd be all over the place trying to chamfer the parts I show in the first of the video.
Another option would be to just unscrew the 4 screws that hold the laminate trimmer up under the table and use it exactly like one of those pneumatic tools. Put whatever bits you want in it...
@@6061 Yeah, I guess for some. I've never had an issue with them being wobbly for similar parts. They do take some practice, just as the router example does. I have used a router just the same, and after having the pneumatic one I will never use a router again. Unless its just too big of a chamfer for it, then I guess a router would do if I cant do it on the mill. To each their own.
When do you get a down and dirty trailer tour?
Don’t know why I’d ever use this, but now I know. I use aluminum on occasion but I’m a truck driver not a fabricator so nothing I’m making matters visually, I just prefer to keep the weight down when I’m making a mount for something on/in the truck.
Does the lube even stay on the tool at the high rpm speeds? Do you see a difference if you don't lube?
Aluminum galls up and clogs cutting tools if you don't lubricate.
Ooooo! Pretty!
thanks 🍻🇨🇦👨🏻🏭
“Backcut” in the furniture making industry is a small secret when you want a flawless finish, especially when routering veneered plywood/board etc., far less to zero tear out on long grain and end grain. It’s not “really” that dangerous, you just need to know what you are doing.
Compression bits on a CNC router will do the same if your settings are correct
I clean up all my router lines on the corners by going "the wrong way".
Scotchbrite is the answer for finish, avoid cutting or breaking fingers
Scotchbrite absolutely ruins the finish on nice aluminum. Never use abrasives for finish on aluminum unless its an old piece of scrap you need to clean up, or you want a brushed appearance ..and even then it looks like dog doo. Thats a total noob move.
@@ArionRaine Perhaps you've never seen the full extent of 6061's Al finishing techniques.
Mr T-6 got it down!
👍
Why not use a Microjig push block.
Standard on a router table.
For larger parts, maybe.
Personally, I see no benefit using one when chamfering small/medium sized parts like in this example.
The bearing bolt on the router bit is taller than the thickness of the aluminum being cut. That means you'd have to reposition the push block several times to cut around the entire part (tedious and time consuming). And you can't use a push block to do the 3/8" long corners (when standing the part up vertically).
It comes down to personal preference. For me, It wouldn't make the task any easier/safer.
And of course the safety conversation will come up, so I'll address that too:
Depending on skill level, for you it may be safer/easier to use a push block, but if you are experienced, alert, and mindful of what you are doing at all times, it may not be necessary.
Everyone stay safe and work within your own limits.
😎👍
He speaks
I am a better welder thanks to you
why would you add chemicals if you are tigging the part
WOW, you talk ! 🤣
So you do know how to talk after all 🤔
Blablablablabla