Dang, I love seeing and hearing that old Monarch run. Everything about it just seems to be smooth. They really don't make em like they used to. Hands down one of my favorite channels.
@hersch_tool thanks. But I somewhat disagree. The Lion Lathe performed almost as well for being a new machine. There are a few who still make great equipment, but very few.
@@TopperMachineLLCEven in the good old days only some of the great lathe makers did helical gears. Machine tools just aren't built the same today, largely because the just don't need to be.
I’m envious of the great finishes you can get with the lite cuts you are making with inserts. I guess it’s the benefit of having a big and ridged lathe. Thanks for the video.
That was pretty satisfying to watch. It's been ages since I've had a project that involved any serious chip making. Then again, I don't miss getting burnt by the blue meanies. 😂
@rexmyers991 we will see. Depends on what gets in the way between now and then, and how big of a hurry I am in to get it back in production. These videos at least double a production time sometimes upto 5 times longer.
Good morning Josh. This was certainly a very nice project. Very nice machine work.👍👍 The 1045 TG&P definitely looks like good material and machines nice. Thanks for sharing the process. Have a great weekend. 👍 🇺🇸👍
The way you set up that steady rest will give a few machinists a heart attack 🤣 Especially Abom79. By the time you finished your first part he’d be still loosening his lows and tightening his highs.
Steadyrests aren't rocket science. Get it set up and get the work done. You're generally only facing and centerdrilling anyway. Why waste all day indicating unless you have to.
A heavy dose of OCD will drive anyone crazy. Some have more, some have less. Just get ‘er done to print tolerance and full customer satisfaction and they’ll keep coming back.
Nice job Josh, They have a fantastic finish, I admire your confidence checking for burrs with your thumb while piece is rotating, Did that once and spent 3 hours digging a little one out of my thumb, It was the last time I did a substandard chamfer on a piece of metal. Experience is a wonderful teacher. lol
If you watch, I only do that after the final hit with a file to ensure it's good. And I never apply pressure. Just a close touch. If I get any feeling of sharpness, it doesn't go out the door. Customers will refuse work with sharp edges.
“ If you take too much off you’re screwed!” That cracked me up. Run the video backwards for a couple of seconds and watch the metal jump back on. That would really mess some people up! Love your work.
I commend your workmanship Josh. I own a CNC-only machine shop, but only 30-40 year old CNC machines. We only make extremely precise parts in extremely tough materials including heat treatment. I feel a lot of the pain that you feel. Sure, cutting edge machines would probably be a little faster, but the same level of precision and same controls etc. would cost millions to replace because they also all take the same tooling.
Just to replace my big lathe with a cnc would be expensive. But then slower as I would have to spend time programming. Since most of what I do is only 1 or 2 pcs, so if I had CNC, I would lose these same jobs to a manual shop based on cost. Funny thing is that I have a large customer base of CNC only shops that have kept me very busy the last couple years.
Another great job of just getting it done for sure nice finsh one the shafts there Not a fan of Ancherlube but it works for some The mill needs a rebuild you say can't weight till you show us that one Cheers from North Queensland Australia
Always good to see some heavy machining and good chip control. Often in long cuts like that the corner of the insert in the cut will heat up to dull red. Maybe next time your making a cut like this check it and film for the viewers if you can. It always amazes me that the cutting edge can still cut ok under these conditions. Thats why if you use coolant have a good supply flooding over the work piece other wise with spasmodic splashes of coolant will course thermal cracking of the insert and failure will follow. Hope you all follow. Cheers and keep up the good work. Ian
Great video. Those shafts machine sooooo well! That’s a big keyway!! I will be interested in watching you refurbish that Bridgeport?! Hint. Have a great week Be Well
I like the idea of thinning the anchor lube with water. I have been adding tap magic and it still dries out. I did not know it was water based until I heard you say it.
The whole reason I like anchorlube so much is the smell in hot cuts, it isn't burning oil. And it doesn't smoke up the shop. Mixing tap magic negates those qualities. .water keeps those qualities
I love your videos! Some time ago I inherited dad's old Atlas/Craftsman 12 inch lathe and have been slowly working on "tightning up" things that show wear from age, even replacing broken gears in the threading gearbox. My little "garage machine shop" had a nice addition of a desktop mill with digital readout which has convinced me that the Atlas should get digital in the future! I was wondering about the chips that are produced, especially as you are milling the slot in this video. you clean them out with air pressure which seeming spreads them all around the shop! Is there no way to setup a vacuum system around the cutter to keep the chips out of the work and the shop cleaner? Maybe it is more trouble than it is worth. I do try to hold the vac hose end near the "cutting in progress" on the mill to reduce the splatter of chips! The mill is a great addition to my little shop. One of the first things it produced was a replacement part for a Russian made Bayan (Russian Accordion) that otherwise would have been sent back there for repair. The original part was made from aluminum sheet metal with 90 degree bends to make feet. with age the bends cracked and broke making the instrument un-playable. I suspect that my milled part will outlast the $30,000 instrument! There is one important lesson that I have learned from you, BlondiHacks, Kurt at CEE and others and that is you can never have enough tooling and accessories for your machines!
Josh, you were looking like one of those ' Cookin show hosts' when you were showing how you thinned the Anchor Lube..... glad it was not Martha Stewart........maybe the Cookin' Cajun' Justin Wilson.......
Well, you have done everything all wrong again! Just kidding from the remarks from last week's video. I am not a machinist at all. I worked in a totally different field of work but love to watch machining and learn. I have also been told by some that my means or methods in my realm is all wrong and should do this or that differently. All my projects were successful and still functioning, so I can retire in peace and feel good about my work. I enjoy your videos. Thanks.
Hi Josh! Can you explain how to properly set up a steady rest? You run the risk that the work piece wiggels out if it is not on center right? So how do you make sure that the workpiece is exact on center at the tailstock end? Thanks!
Hey Josh, what kind of windmill can you plunge like that mine all would need a center hole because they don’t cut all the way to the center just trying to learn more about thank you Kimber
back in 1997 0r 98, when I had gotten my first real lathe, a 14 x 48 Clausing 6913, I was at the scrap yard and found some 1045 round bar.......[2] 1 15/16 [2] 2 15/16 and [2 ] 3 15/16, all TGP and in their cardboard sleeves.....20 feet long..... well, I thought that would be some great stuff to learn how to make things and use the lathe....... so I called my pal with a Ford F 600 flat bed, [he wa a real machinist] and got him to come and check out the stuff and help me haul it home.....I only had a Buick Station wagon the time ..... I gave the yard $500 for the lot.......and talked them into cutting the bars in half.....I think that the 3 15/16 was still 430 lbs at 10 feet... I gave my buddy some of the material, he ended up buying some more off me....and I had a lot of fun, I cant imagine what that material would cost today..... sure wish I still had some of it, but when I moved form NC to FL, I had to leave it..... cheers, Paul...
Got some Anchor lube to use with my bench drill press sometime ago. ✊🏻 A weird observation: It smells nothing like I thought it would have. Kinda nice actually. 🤣 Question though, is the thermal expansion you refer to a known variable? Meaning, if this is X steel so I can expect expansion of x.x thousands? Just wondering for my own edification.
Making it look easy again. Experience pays off. Why do you use the step pulley heads on your Bridgeports? Do you see any benefit compared to the variable speed version besides simplicity? Mine is a variable speed head but that is what I lucked into when shopping. It was the right price, in decent shape and about 30 miles away.
@TopperMachineLLC Makes perfect sense. Mine works well for me, but I'm a hobbyist doing hobby stuff. When I need a real machinist, I know how to find you.
Mine is a variable speed head which is fine for what I do, but If I was using it hard to make money like Josh does I would have a step pulley head as well, they are less trouble and belt changing doesn't much more effort or time.
End mills will always push away from climb cutting and pull into conventional cutting. To minimize this effect remove the bulk of material with a smaller cutter and finish with full size. Otherwise the keyway is likely to be oversized and out of tolerance.
Mr topper , i am just an Archer but your lathe is showing an Indikation of in balance caused by your tailstock or the livecenter - maybe round 4/10000 mm ?
When you go to center drill the shaft, it looks like the fixed drill bit moves off center slightly as it hits the shaft material. Is that due to the flex in the bit, shape of the drill bit tip, or due to the tolerances of the bit mount and slide rails of the lathe? Also, how straight does the shaft stock come from your supplier? Maybe it is an optical illusion, but as you start spinning the shafts they don't appear to be fully straight, or is that just due to how they mount in the lathe, hence the steady rest device you use? What causes the taper? Why when you cut say .200 you get small chips but when you were cutting .020 you get long thin ribbons of material? What dictates the chip "size"?
The drill will correct itself for any deviation from center as long as it is not too much. The drill could break if it's too far out. I don't indicate the steadyrest for this kind of stuff as it is not necessary to be dead on. TGP is turned ground and polished, it is perfectly true. What you were seeing is light reflecting off the differences in cleanliness of the bar.
@@TopperMachineLLC Yes...I bought a new one for that reason as well. IT didn't seem to make much difference and why I say it must be flexing in either the bed or the tail stock causing my issues.
Nice work. Just curious though, as they are idler shafts, why are they keyed? (I realise that this isn't your design, just wondering if you know why they are like they are.)
Inch is so easy! Not trying to sound mean here, but the rest of the world calls us "Dumb Americans" yet they can't understand our simple measurement system or language. Lol. Again, not trying to be a jerk, just pointing out the obvious.
Its pretty easy to do, trying to visualize something in metric is a pain for me and pretty much everyone in the US. I'm used to looking at a bolt on something and knowing if it needs an 8 or 10mm wrench, but when I get out a tape measure to build something its in inches and feet. Only thing we use the metric system for in American society is selling drugs.
I so prefer to work in Imperial over metric. It is truly easier. At work everything is in mm's and a total pain to have to do the conversion to an understandable distance in my head for everything.
on video at 16:00 you said you were making a 3.00” relief section. From my perspective it looks like it’s atound 5.00”. are you dure ins 3.00”? im sure you are but it looks more. im envisioning a 3”x5” index card heldd against it. if i envision the 3.00” end against shaft it appears to me > 3.00, if i flip card to 5.00” end it appears in my mind about 5.00” shaft relief. im probably wrong but it looks different. What is the shaft diameter again ? thank you
Being that I am not a machinist (at all!) 10:05 made me pause. Maybe I missed something, but as far as I can tell you didn't change the depth of your cut at all. Then how in the world did the shaft get tapered? It can't be that the axis of the spindle and the race of the head are ever so slightly off, because then you couldn't get anything straight and unlike at 12:10 it would never have cleaned itself up. 🤔
Bruh… nice finish… your a mad machinist… I watch a lot of your vids. Thanks
The finish on the shafts is fabulous, and I’m always blown away by the efficiency of the cutters. Another great video, thank you Josh 😊
Really stunning surface finish. I've never turned 1045 before but maybe I should. It'd be really hard to get that on 1018
Dang, I love seeing and hearing that old Monarch run. Everything about it just seems to be smooth. They really don't make em like they used to. Hands down one of my favorite channels.
@hersch_tool thanks. But I somewhat disagree. The Lion Lathe performed almost as well for being a new machine. There are a few who still make great equipment, but very few.
@@TopperMachineLLC Josh, does the Lion have helical gears? But I get your drift.
@@CothranMike no, but nobody does that anymore. Too much cost.
@@TopperMachineLLCEven in the good old days only some of the great lathe makers did helical gears. Machine tools just aren't built the same today, largely because the just don't need to be.
I’m envious of the great finishes you can get with the lite cuts you are making with inserts. I guess it’s the benefit of having a big and ridged lathe. Thanks for the video.
It also helps that the lathe is RIGID.
That was pretty satisfying to watch. It's been ages since I've had a project that involved any serious chip making. Then again, I don't miss getting burnt by the blue meanies. 😂
Beautiful piece. Love the relief using the round cutter. I hope that you film the process of refreshing the Bridgeport. Looking forward to it.
It really doesn't need much. Spindle bearings are about it.
Yes - please record to rebuild.
@rexmyers991 we will see. Depends on what gets in the way between now and then, and how big of a hurry I am in to get it back in production. These videos at least double a production time sometimes upto 5 times longer.
you really nailed the speed/feed on those bars, such a nice finish even on the heavy cuts!
Loads of experience.
That 1045 was cutting beautifully, lovely chips.
Love seeing the old lathe in action, making some great chips, and great work. Good job.
Good morning Josh.
This was certainly a very nice project.
Very nice machine work.👍👍
The 1045 TG&P definitely looks like good material and machines nice.
Thanks for sharing the process.
Have a great weekend. 👍 🇺🇸👍
Thanks! I love working with that material.
@@TopperMachineLLCThanks Josh.👍🇺🇸👍
This was great to follow along with. I always learn a lot from your videos, thanks
I'm just catching up with this Josh. Happy days buddy, love me some Monarch action
Beautiful finish on those shafts.. Thanks for sharing Josh !
The way you set up that steady rest will give a few machinists a heart attack 🤣 Especially Abom79. By the time you finished your first part he’d be still loosening his lows and tightening his highs.
Steadyrests aren't rocket science. Get it set up and get the work done. You're generally only facing and centerdrilling anyway. Why waste all day indicating unless you have to.
A heavy dose of OCD will drive anyone crazy. Some have more, some have less. Just get ‘er done to print tolerance and full customer satisfaction and they’ll keep coming back.
The human eye can be remarkably calibrated, especially if this is something you do often. Just line it up against a surface by eye.
Yep, showing us how it's done. Thanks for letting us look over your shoulder and see you in the next one, Josh. Cheers.
I don't know about that. It could be done many different ways.
@@TopperMachineLLC Josh, folks like me enjoy the way YOU do it, the way your machines work, with you at the controls!
@@CothranMike thanks.
Take care not to hurt yourself, good video, great chips
Another great video Josh. Love the way that 1045 was turning!
Thanks!
@@davidbarnett.2313 thank you.
Thanks for the tip with the anchorlube.
You're welcome, it's the best stuff around.
@9:38 Wow that finish looks really good.
Thanks for the video. I am glad that you are making progress; that was a big job with heavy parts. It always good to see you.
Nice work, Josh! A very satisfying job for a machinist.
Some nice chips with good colour there, your customers should be glad that you actually care and get it done right...the first time.
Nice job Josh, They have a fantastic finish, I admire your confidence checking for burrs with your thumb while piece is rotating, Did that once and spent 3 hours digging a little one out of my thumb, It was the last time I did a substandard chamfer on a piece of metal. Experience is a wonderful teacher. lol
If you watch, I only do that after the final hit with a file to ensure it's good. And I never apply pressure. Just a close touch. If I get any feeling of sharpness, it doesn't go out the door. Customers will refuse work with sharp edges.
Thanks for the reply Josh, yeah, I was young and inexperienced and didn’t pay attention. All 3 reasons for in shop Surgery.
It's amazing what some companies will let out the door. Mostly stamped sheet, stuff is razor sharp!
@@dcraft1234 I won't let sharp or garbage out the door. Probably part of the reason I'm the last one in my region.
The taper in that first rough cut I think is the tool heating up and getting longer. The second cut had more stabilised temperature. Good job!
You are correct, it is between the material and tooling. Thermal expansion is a real issue to deal with. If you understand it, easy to overcome.
Hi Josh & it's is Randy and i like yours video is Cool & Thanks Josh & Friends Randy
“ If you take too much off you’re screwed!” That cracked me up. Run the video backwards for a couple of seconds and watch the metal jump back on. That would really mess some people up! Love your work.
That would be funny. But I'd still be out a bunch of money.
Thank you Josh!
I commend your workmanship Josh. I own a CNC-only machine shop, but only 30-40 year old CNC machines. We only make extremely precise parts in extremely tough materials including heat treatment. I feel a lot of the pain that you feel. Sure, cutting edge machines would probably be a little faster, but the same level of precision and same controls etc. would cost millions to replace because they also all take the same tooling.
Just to replace my big lathe with a cnc would be expensive. But then slower as I would have to spend time programming. Since most of what I do is only 1 or 2 pcs, so if I had CNC, I would lose these same jobs to a manual shop based on cost. Funny thing is that I have a large customer base of CNC only shops that have kept me very busy the last couple years.
@@TopperMachineLLC Curious. How long to do you think it would take to program this job in CAM software?
@@MechanicalAdvantage longer than I'm willing to spend. Not worth my time.
@@TopperMachineLLC Well, if you are wondering, it shouldn't take any more than 5 to 10 minutes.
Excellent and inspirational!
Another excellent job, Josh! Congrats!
Always so satisfying to watch.
Another great job of just getting it done for sure nice finsh one the shafts there
Not a fan of Ancherlube but it works for some
The mill needs a rebuild you say can't weight till you show us that one
Cheers from North Queensland Australia
Good to see you get another customer!!
This of from a long standing customer.
@@TopperMachineLLC Opps I thought you said it was.
Always good to see some heavy machining and good chip control. Often in long cuts like that the corner of the insert in the cut will heat up to dull red. Maybe next time your making a cut like this check it and film for the viewers if you can. It always amazes me that the cutting edge can still cut ok under these conditions. Thats why if you use coolant have a good supply flooding over the work piece other wise with spasmodic splashes of coolant will course thermal cracking of the insert and failure will follow. Hope you all follow. Cheers and keep up the good work. Ian
Wow!
What a keyway!
Thanks for the video.
You are a professional.
such beautiful 1045 tgp material to work with.......have a wonderful day our friend in Spooner, Paul in Orlando
You do Amazing work 😊😊😊
Very nice work Josh. Beautiful finishes.
Thank you!
Amazing finish that lathe produces.
All lathes could do this. Just takes practice.
Thanks Josh: Great Work
Great video. Those shafts machine sooooo well! That’s a big keyway!! I will be interested in watching you refurbish that Bridgeport?! Hint.
Have a great week
Be Well
I like the idea of thinning the anchor lube with water. I have been adding tap magic and it still dries out. I did not know it was water based until I heard you say it.
The whole reason I like anchorlube so much is the smell in hot cuts, it isn't burning oil. And it doesn't smoke up the shop. Mixing tap magic negates those qualities. .water keeps those qualities
Thanks for posting regards from Townsville Australia
Great video Josh, keep'um coming.
Good stuff
Another awesome job!!
Beautiful finish on that shaft.
Thanks. Surface finish is key.
Great job. I really like your channel
Excellent machining process 👍
Thank you! I appreciate you watching.
Mr. Topper you do quality work
Love your videos. Love your machines as well.
Thank you, I appreciate the support!
steady rest .100 at a time THAT'S SOLID
Fabulous! Inspiration on a Saturday.
Thanks! Glad you enjoyed it.
I love your videos! Some time ago I inherited dad's old Atlas/Craftsman 12 inch lathe and have been slowly working on "tightning up" things that show wear from age, even replacing broken gears in the threading gearbox. My little "garage machine shop" had a nice addition of a desktop mill with digital readout which has convinced me that the Atlas should get digital in the future!
I was wondering about the chips that are produced, especially as you are milling the slot in this video. you clean them out with air pressure which seeming spreads them all around the shop! Is there no way to setup a vacuum system around the cutter to keep the chips out of the work and the shop cleaner? Maybe it is more trouble than it is worth. I do try to hold the vac hose end near the "cutting in progress" on the mill to reduce the splatter of chips!
The mill is a great addition to my little shop. One of the first things it produced was a replacement part for a Russian made Bayan (Russian Accordion) that otherwise would have been sent back there for repair. The original part was made from aluminum sheet metal with 90 degree bends to make feet. with age the bends cracked and broke making the instrument un-playable. I suspect that my milled part will outlast the $30,000 instrument!
There is one important lesson that I have learned from you, BlondiHacks, Kurt at CEE and others and that is you can never have enough tooling and accessories for your machines!
Nice finish on the shaft.
Surface finish is key.
thank you
another awesome video!
Thanks!
Good show !
Hello Josh, been looking forward to the next installment.
From kiwi land.
Nicely done josh👍👍👍
Thank you!
Good job Josh.
Josh, you were looking like one of those ' Cookin show hosts' when you were showing how you thinned the Anchor Lube.....
glad it was not Martha Stewart........maybe the Cookin' Cajun' Justin Wilson.......
Nice
Brilliant as always 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻🇬🇧
Glad you enjoyed it!
Well, you have done everything all wrong again!
Just kidding from the remarks from last week's video. I am not a machinist at all. I worked in a totally different field of work but love to watch machining and learn. I have also been told by some that my means or methods in my realm is all wrong and should do this or that differently. All my projects were successful and still functioning, so I can retire in peace and feel good about my work. I enjoy your videos. Thanks.
Surprisingly, nobody complained yet. So now I'm sad, nobody to block from the channel. Lol
Hi Josh! Can you explain how to properly set up a steady rest? You run the risk that the work piece wiggels out if it is not on center right? So how do you make sure that the workpiece is exact on center at the tailstock end? Thanks!
I'm sure the DROs on the machines would make your job so much easier than reading scales all the time. How did you get along without them in the past?
Just fine. Actually, it didn't speed me up that much. I had all kinds of little tricks and techniques to accommodate not having a DRO
I've never tried anchor lube. I use tap magic for applications like this.
I have some tap magic, but the smoke from it makes me sneeze violently.
What's the gold center drill? What's the brand that you prefer?
Thanks for another great video!
TIAN coated. Whatever is cheapest but of good quality and origin.
Watching this late at night, tomorrow I'll be behind a lathe doing the same stuff the guy
is doing..(Like many here?) , so am I nuts or what?
Hey Josh, what kind of windmill can you plunge like that mine all would need a center hole because they don’t cut all the way to the center just trying to learn more about thank you Kimber
You need center cutting end mills
Suggest uncut milling for your final .003" cut - better finish and slightly longer tool cutting edge life
back in 1997 0r 98, when I had gotten my first real lathe, a 14 x 48 Clausing 6913, I was at the scrap yard and found
some 1045 round bar.......[2] 1 15/16 [2] 2 15/16 and [2 ] 3 15/16, all TGP and in their cardboard sleeves.....20 feet long.....
well, I thought that would be some great stuff to learn how to make things and use the lathe.......
so I called my pal with a Ford F 600 flat bed, [he wa a real machinist] and got him to come and check out the stuff
and help me haul it home.....I only had a Buick Station wagon the time .....
I gave the yard $500 for the lot.......and talked them into cutting the bars in half.....I think that the 3 15/16 was still 430 lbs at 10 feet...
I gave my buddy some of the material, he ended up buying some more off me....and I had a lot of fun, I cant imagine what that material would cost today.....
sure wish I still had some of it, but when I moved form NC to FL, I had to leave it.....
cheers, Paul...
It's not cheap anymore. That was a great score for you back then.
Josh, you need a cold beverage after this....thanks so much.....Paul
Thanks Paul, I'll definitely have a few after this.
Got some Anchor lube to use with my bench drill press sometime ago. ✊🏻 A weird observation: It smells nothing like I thought it would have. Kinda nice actually. 🤣 Question though, is the thermal expansion you refer to a known variable? Meaning, if this is X steel so I can expect expansion of x.x thousands? Just wondering for my own edification.
Yes, thermal expansion can be calculated and planned for.
@@TopperMachineLLC Thx.
Making it look easy again. Experience pays off.
Why do you use the step pulley heads on your Bridgeports? Do you see any benefit compared to the variable speed version besides simplicity? Mine is a variable speed head but that is what I lucked into when shopping. It was the right price, in decent shape and about 30 miles away.
@gofastwclass I never liked the variable speed heads. Too much to fail. Longevity isn't there. I've rebuilt several over my 25 years.
@TopperMachineLLC Makes perfect sense. Mine works well for me, but I'm a hobbyist doing hobby stuff. When I need a real machinist, I know how to find you.
@@gofastwclass I don't know about that. I'm really hidden in this desolate region of northern woods. Lol
Mine is a variable speed head which is fine for what I do, but If I was using it hard to make money like Josh does I would have a step pulley head as well, they are less trouble and belt changing doesn't much more effort or time.
@dutchgray86 the only disadvantage to the step pulley mill is it is only 1HP.
What keeps your steady rest screws from migrating? I don't see any kind of lock ring to keep them from turning on their own.
There are lock bolts.
@@TopperMachineLLC Thank you for replying back so fast. I'm half way done watching your video.
@@TopperMachineLLC Next time you do a QA video please show how this works on the steady rest screws. Thank you.
Were you using a titanium coated center drill? What is your opinion?
Yes, they were not a lot more than uncoated and so worth trying.
Great job. Why not a 7/8" end mill to cut the keyway? Thanks
Rigidity, or the lack thereof. It would cut oversize in the BP.
End mills will always push away from climb cutting and pull into conventional cutting. To minimize this effect remove the bulk of material with a smaller cutter and finish with full size. Otherwise the keyway is likely to be oversized and out of tolerance.
Is there a reason you have the top slide on the lathe set at an angle or was it just left that way from the last job?
For threading. It stays at 29.5° all the time unless I need something else.
👍
could heat loading be part of the taper?
Mr topper , i am just an Archer but your lathe is showing an Indikation of in balance caused by your tailstock or the livecenter - maybe round 4/10000 mm ?
Sounds like a big job coming up on the Bridgeport with the refurbish. Hope you do a video on it, it sounds like it will be interesting.
It won't be too bad, but may be a ways off yet. Too much to keep doing.
When you go to center drill the shaft, it looks like the fixed drill bit moves off center slightly as it hits the shaft material. Is that due to the flex in the bit, shape of the drill bit tip, or due to the tolerances of the bit mount and slide rails of the lathe? Also, how straight does the shaft stock come from your supplier? Maybe it is an optical illusion, but as you start spinning the shafts they don't appear to be fully straight, or is that just due to how they mount in the lathe, hence the steady rest device you use? What causes the taper? Why when you cut say .200 you get small chips but when you were cutting .020 you get long thin ribbons of material? What dictates the chip "size"?
The drill will correct itself for any deviation from center as long as it is not too much. The drill could break if it's too far out. I don't indicate the steadyrest for this kind of stuff as it is not necessary to be dead on. TGP is turned ground and polished, it is perfectly true. What you were seeing is light reflecting off the differences in cleanliness of the bar.
Did you check runout after machining the keyslot? Most of the time it bends. Atb and keep making chips ;)
Generally don't have much problem with 1045 doing that. 1018 can/will
Nice...no chatter out at the tail stock. I always have some flex out there on the far end that makes a smooth cut problematic.
I had an issue recently with chatter. My live center went bad. I generally replace them every year, just the cost of doing business.
@@TopperMachineLLC Yes...I bought a new one for that reason as well. IT didn't seem to make much difference and why I say it must be flexing in either the bed or the tail stock causing my issues.
Josh I guested you indicate off camera
Most people don't care about the setup. Some things don't need indicating, like the steady rest for a simple face and center drill operation.
Nice work. Just curious though, as they are idler shafts, why are they keyed? (I realise that this isn't your design, just wondering if you know why they are like they are.)
No idea. Just the way the customer designed it.
I guess they want to make sure the sprockets can't spin on the shaft.
😎👍😎
UPCUT (correction)
As an European with the metric system I really don't envy Americans with the customary system. Must be hard to keep all those numbers in line 😄
Inch is so easy! Not trying to sound mean here, but the rest of the world calls us "Dumb Americans" yet they can't understand our simple measurement system or language. Lol. Again, not trying to be a jerk, just pointing out the obvious.
Its pretty easy to do, trying to visualize something in metric is a pain for me and pretty much everyone in the US. I'm used to looking at a bolt on something and knowing if it needs an 8 or 10mm wrench, but when I get out a tape measure to build something its in inches and feet. Only thing we use the metric system for in American society is selling drugs.
I so prefer to work in Imperial over metric. It is truly easier. At work everything is in mm's and a total pain to have to do the conversion to an understandable distance in my head for everything.
@@nickwarner8158 and mortar shells
I just don't understand. Use metric measuring tools when necessary. Just go with the flow. BE FLEXIBLE OR FRUSTRATED.
👍😎👍
I much prefer manual machine operations the cnc is not my bag at all. Plus all my stuff is manual Good onya
I find CNC boring and lacking in feel. Manuals require so much more to operate efficiently and in the right hands are far more profitable than CNC.
on video at 16:00 you said you were making a 3.00” relief section. From my perspective it looks like it’s atound 5.00”. are you dure ins 3.00”? im sure you are but it looks more. im envisioning a 3”x5” index card heldd against it. if i envision the 3.00” end against shaft it appears to me > 3.00, if i flip card to 5.00” end it appears in my mind about 5.00” shaft relief. im probably wrong but it looks different. What is the shaft diameter again ? thank you
Optical delusion. It is 3" of relief, or the part would be scrapped. 3.437" diameter
Great thanks. I will show this post to my wife explainkng why i need to replace the non calibrated tv monitor screen. 🤣
When you dilute anchorlube with water why don’t you get rusting on your mill and vice?
I clean ot up.
Holy...... aren't sparks bad?
Not necessarily
Being that I am not a machinist (at all!) 10:05 made me pause. Maybe I missed something, but as far as I can tell you didn't change the depth of your cut at all. Then how in the world did the shaft get tapered? It can't be that the axis of the spindle and the race of the head are ever so slightly off, because then you couldn't get anything straight and unlike at 12:10 it would never have cleaned itself up. 🤔
He used an accessory known as a taper attachment. It was an ideal way to do this job.