Everything you need to know⛵️Hobie 16 Jib system
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- Опубліковано 18 лип 2022
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This is what we're looking at:
- Tack position
- Attach halyard - no twists - explain purchase system - blocks must be strong - rope must be low stretch
- Hoist jib
- How much tension?
- JIB SHEETS route - important point is that you need purchase
- where to attach jib sheets
- BATTENS - have them tight as possible - don't use battens that are too soft
- Crew training - cleating and uncleating
- Jib travellers
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Thank you very much for creating this tutorial. It's greatly appreciated.
Glad it was helpful!
Nice clear video, thanks Joe - on our club Hobie 16's, I got fed up with folks losing pins and ring dings in the sand when they were rigging boats. I have replaced the shackle/pins/ring dings for all the jibs with 2-3/4inch (70mm) Jaw Swivel Stainless Steel Snap Shackles, about $15 on Amazon for 2. You need total of 4 per boat. At the clew, the first snap shackle is pinned on lowest hole on the multi-hole adjuster plates, roughly equivalent to the third hole up if you just used a pin. For the head of the jib, the second snap shackle is attached directly to the Aussie rig halyard block. For the tack, the third snap shackle is pinned thru the 2 jib sheet blocks. If the sail plate is newer, then you may have to grind the sides of the snap shackle a bit, to make it narrow enough to fit thru the grommet. It's still strong enough! I use a fourth snap shackle on the upper 6:1 downhaul block to attach it to the mainsail boom. I use a larger snap shackle for convenience for the mainsheet block, as you have recommended previously. The main halyard has a captive pin on its shackle as standard, so now each corner of each sail connected by captive pins. Much less frustrating for all and they worked well all of last season.
Thanks for that, sounds like a great plan!
Cheers
Great video thanks!
Glad you liked it!
Great stuff, Joe. We use a bow shackle on the clew, with the bow through the second hole from the bottom and the pin in the third. One block on port, one on starboard side of the clew. That gets the blocks snug up to the clew giving some flexibility in rig tension and still being able to go block to block when sheeting on tight.
Yes, nice, this is what the racing 16 sailors favour - for us in our situation we stopped doing it as it wasn't necessary as long as all of the boats were set up the same.
I just started sailing a trac16 on a lake near rhine and try to figure out the jyb rigging. This is great help!
Great. Good luck with your Trac!
When you find the ideal maximum and minimum halyard tension, it's a great idea to mark that halyard so you have a reference point. Black sharpie will do the trick!
We've been doing it with electrical tape.
Thanks for the tip.
Muito bom vídeo, estou iniciando com hobie cat 16, e aqui no Brasil, ainda é muito pouco divulgado e temos muito poucos videos em portugues com a qualidade de detalhes dos seus, abraço .
I will try to put Portuguese subtitles on all of my videos.
Cheers
The adjustable clew plate determines if you're pulling more on the foot or the leech. Use the full range for maximum benefit. Very light air hook up at the top hole. Very heavy air, hook up at the very bottom hole. There is so much power to be gained or lessened on this item and so many won't take advantage of it.
We never go higher than the middle as this hooks the leech of the Jib and kills the airflow. In the same way, we generally don't go any lower than 2 as that opens the leech too much.
That's in my opinion of course.
Hi Jo, any thoughts on pigtails for the jib on the 16. Mike
It's good to have one as it means you're halyard doesn't need to be quite as long, and it takes the top halyard block away from the rest of the rigging which may cause friction.
why do you have 2 of those plates connecting the forestay and tack on the jib?
Here's the answer - ua-cam.com/video/3t0E4dXMOZw/v-deo.html
2:00 - the cheek blocks do not increase purchase, they just change the direction of the line you are pulling... it's still a 3:1 halyard.
Thanks for that.
Got it.
Cheers
@@JoyriderTV You're the man Joe, I just can't help myself on block purchase :)
@@HobieHighLife Ha! Yes, I wasn't too sure - good to clear that up!
At the 5:28 mark where you are talking about routing your jib sheet thru the Trentec jib car. Why don't you switch the two holes (of the Trentec that the jib sheet goes thru) so the jib sheet's knot is outer and jib sheet is inward? This would reduce the friction on the jib sheet from having to rub against the knot.
Thanks for the tip.
I'll have a look and see how she runs.
Can you sail the H16 with no jib and just use the halyard to put tension on the mast?
yes, it works pretty well - you may need an extra strop to get the halyard long enough:
Check this out - ua-cam.com/video/AlMmxrxQ3oI/v-deo.html
So there is no wire on this jib halyard, it’s entirely rope. I see the one “incredibly strong” diamond shaped block you attached to the sail, and at the top on the mast is a block with 2 wheels? I don’t have this system but I’d like to upgrade to it. Can you tell me about the line you prefer to use? Thanks a million Joe
We use a 5mm rope with a dyneema core or 6mm even better - you want zero stretch from the rope.