Interested to see how things go using a block with no oil squirters on stock pistons. I've heard usually you can go without squirters if you have some nicer pistons, but stock turbo pistons often need them. However I put many thousands of miles on a full n/a engine that I just stuck a turbo on with n/a pistons and everything so really who am I to talk lol
Haha we're in this together now! It's all in the tune really, I'll be keeping a close eye on everything! Keeping the combustion chamber temps down is the key. In future episodes, you'll see what measures I take to keep those temps down!
@@tunesandtunes Got my sub. Currently about to rebuild my 6 bolt again because mine crank walked on me. Nice to see others doing similar projects to my own car!
Thanks! I'm a big fan of the feel of these engines with the balance shafts still in, a kevlar belt also reduces a lot of the "risk" usually associated with keeping the balance shafts. Really it's just a personal preference!
There are plenty of benefits to stroking, but my preference is the 2.0. plus I had all of the 2.0 parts already haha. Maybe someday we'll do a stroker!
Your choice not to run oil squirters goes against the rules; machining the hyundai block to accept oil squirters isn't that difficult and can be accomplished with basic hand tools.
Wait there are rules? Man, we would have done it differently if we knew the rules! Lol But for real, there are plenty of examples of non oil squirter builds being fine. They are there to prevent excess wear under high thermal loads. If you control your combustion chamber temps properly, you don't need the squirters. Thanks for watching!
We'll get to that eventually. But you control it with the tune. Cooler IATs, less aggressive timing, water/methanol injection, a richer AFR. Those all contribute to combustion chamber temps.
@@tunesandtunes That has been covered in depth before, what has yet to be done is for someone to give actual example AFR's & Timing numbers so we have a range for what is safe, what is normal, and what could result in piston overheating...without these numbers, any video would only be for entertainment value.
Ohhh ok I gotcha. Yeah I'd be happy to share that info! Although I might not be able to show where the threshold for piston melting is, as I'm trying to avoid that haha. But I'll definitely show what numbers I've found to be safe!
Maybe I missed it, but make sure you set your ring end gaps to spec.
Forgot to hit record on that part *facepalm* but yes all rings were properly checked and gapped!
Loving the DSM content! Glad to see these cars still kicking!
Thanks so much! Glad you're following along in the journey!
missing dowel pin on crank 23:17
Absolutely amazing work, the music is perfectly edited along.
Thanks Mario! We miss you!
Very nice! Enjoying the videos
Awesome, thank you!
Very nice!!!
Thanks Ben!
Interested to see how things go using a block with no oil squirters on stock pistons. I've heard usually you can go without squirters if you have some nicer pistons, but stock turbo pistons often need them. However I put many thousands of miles on a full n/a engine that I just stuck a turbo on with n/a pistons and everything so really who am I to talk lol
Haha we're in this together now! It's all in the tune really, I'll be keeping a close eye on everything! Keeping the combustion chamber temps down is the key. In future episodes, you'll see what measures I take to keep those temps down!
@@tunesandtunes Got my sub. Currently about to rebuild my 6 bolt again because mine crank walked on me. Nice to see others doing similar projects to my own car!
Looking good. Any particular reason you are using the balance shafts?
Thanks! I'm a big fan of the feel of these engines with the balance shafts still in, a kevlar belt also reduces a lot of the "risk" usually associated with keeping the balance shafts. Really it's just a personal preference!
Any benefit to add a galant 2.4L crankshaft to make it 2.3 stroker over keeping it 2.0?
There are plenty of benefits to stroking, but my preference is the 2.0. plus I had all of the 2.0 parts already haha. Maybe someday we'll do a stroker!
16g’s aren’t boring 😭
Nate is a turbo snob 🙄
I didn't say 16g's are boring! Just 16g builds lol
@@tunesandtunes that’s worse, my GVR4 build isn’t boring! 😭😜
Smells like grape! 🍇
Delicious!
Is it 4g63 ? Not 420a ?
Right! It's a 4g63
@@tunesandtunes Cool, love it
Thanks a lot for guide
Thank you!
Your choice not to run oil squirters goes against the rules; machining the hyundai block to accept oil squirters isn't that difficult and can be accomplished with basic hand tools.
Wait there are rules? Man, we would have done it differently if we knew the rules! Lol But for real, there are plenty of examples of non oil squirter builds being fine. They are there to prevent excess wear under high thermal loads. If you control your combustion chamber temps properly, you don't need the squirters. Thanks for watching!
@@tunesandtunes Please make your next video about controlling your combustion temps through tuning.
We'll get to that eventually. But you control it with the tune. Cooler IATs, less aggressive timing, water/methanol injection, a richer AFR. Those all contribute to combustion chamber temps.
@@tunesandtunes That has been covered in depth before, what has yet to be done is for someone to give actual example AFR's & Timing numbers so we have a range for what is safe, what is normal, and what could result in piston overheating...without these numbers, any video would only be for entertainment value.
Ohhh ok I gotcha. Yeah I'd be happy to share that info! Although I might not be able to show where the threshold for piston melting is, as I'm trying to avoid that haha. But I'll definitely show what numbers I've found to be safe!