Thank you so much for taking the time to test and post this. Sir, you have no idea how much this helps so many of us. (including myself) Greatly appreciated! Excellent review of these colors! Loving that SZ Red, may have to pick one up myself.
The Mecha varnishes really help improve the durability of the paint, and the Metal Color Varnish adds a nice sheen to metallics as well. This stuff is so good, I rarely wish I could use lacquers.
@@thedandy6765 Late reply, though this is a 2 year old video to begin with. They likely don't have proper ventilation and space to spray solvent based (lacquer, some acrylics, enamel, etc) paints. Lacquer and solvent based are hazardous, flammable, toxic, and smell. Vallejo Mecha is a waterbased acrylic, and a true one at that. Some paint mfg's lie or stretch the truth and claim waterbased, but in actuality use solvents such as lacquer or alcohol.
Watching this video I can definitely say that these paints are made for an airbrush. I've tried them with a normal brush and the effect was not as impressive. Great video!
@@barbatosrex9473 cool man :) I have a question, I'm 3d printing with resin some highly detailed earrings and I want to paint the prints with airbrush and some details with a small brush, but i'm not sure if the vallejo's mecha color + a varnish will keep the tiny details and be strong enough/scratch-proof for an object that's gonna be manipulated everyday. Do you know what could be the best paint for this kind of job? Enamel, lacquers or any paint that create fumes are not a problem for me because I paint with a fullface mask with organic fumes filter (the same i use for handling the resin). Thank you man!
awsum video, waiting to get these paints as most places are out of stock of the big case with the mecha paints, enjoy watching your videos, keep up the awsum vids
Thank you so much for your sharing! It's really helpful for me to decide which colour I should buy! Because so much out there and all the bottles look similar until we try it. Good man!
I been spraying this stuff dry right out of the bottle and always felt like I was wasting more paint than should. I only recently started to thin it down and MAN does that make a difference.
Great video. After two years of building Gunpla and attempting to stick with spray cans, I’m finally employed again, and saving up some cash for an airbrush + compressor and a good waterbased paint line. I just can’t do the solvent ones (at least as my main air paint) cuz I don’t have a fume extractor, it’s just too much money for a cheap one even. I like Vallejo’s range of colors but I didn’t like that they were acrylics, but the Mecha colors boast a high durability once clear coated than their other acrylic colors. Hoping these will work well out of a cheap airbrush set (getting a NoName Cool Tooty entry level airbrush, I forget the name of the low range set one specifically but I’m hopefully buying it from spray gunner). I’ve seen other people recommending this paint for airbrushing right out of the bottle, too. Hoping these work out well with the airbrush I’m gonna buy!
Great detailed video. I'm actually trying to hand brush gunpla with vallejo mecha color. I have the flow improver mixed with water and I'm going to add a thinner to the mix as well. The black primer is wonderful to work with for hand painting. The "grey" color annoyed me because it turned out it had a blue base in the pigment where the color that I wanted was the stone grey. I have a few other colors but I'm still figuring out the right mix for hand painting.
It would be interesting to see how their different mediums affect the way their colors work. Both in how they finish off, and how they allow the base coats to show through. Their metal medium is a fun thing to add to any color to get a metallic sheen as well! If you liked how the blue and red metallic look, try that metal medium with the turquoise. :) Great video sir!
Love the metals. The gun metal is fantastic! Copper looked strange compared to what I'm used to seeing. Not a lot of orange over the black. The steel and dark steel are nice as well.
Vallejo has some amazing metallics for the air brush. Metal Color Air is pretty baller. I use it with my paint brushes and air brushes. They're pretty much the only metalocs I use.
Thanks, I was wondering about those for a bandi kit I bought. I can't find Gianotes in this country and need something durable for my gundam. Awesome review.
Did an basecoat of Vallejo Game Color skin on my Vigo head and OMG it was painful to do, first i didn't have enough paint, then i wasn't sure if the mixture (skin paint1+skin paint2 + thinner+flow improver) was thin enough, had the compressor set to 20, then the paint would dry too fast, then bc of the light i couldn't get uniform color and some of the crevices are slightly grey from the primer underneath. I did it 4 times to get enough paint, first time i tested on a spoon and that ended perfect, with the head i think it's harder because of the shape. I'm new to this so i will hopefully get better at determining the amount of paint needed for the size of an object.
Older video, but their website states that these were specifically made for airbrushing with a low PSI with a satin finish. The main thing that makes these unique from their other airbrush lines is its durability with joints and posing.
Brilliant review! Picked up a dinged up 1993 power rangers megazord toy that's scratched to hell. Plan is to repair and sand the surface which would also require a good paint durable to withstand the odd handling and rare combination for photos. Looks like this range would be perfect!
I'm excited to see some videos on the varnishes.. i have some gloss and some matte on order (as well as dozen or so of the mecha paints) and the vendor is taking their time shipping them, so it'll be cool to see some videos about how well they work.
Great video, as always! Now I can actually buy some mecha colors without doubts. Would you consider making a video on Citiadel paints? The ones from Games Workshop (Warhammer). Their range is 100% pure acrylics so I think it could be a nice comparison!
A Games Workshop store opened up just a mile down the road from me. I'll go there and see what they got. I'll pick up some of their Air paints for testing. Thanks for letting me know
I guess Im asking randomly but does anybody know of a trick to get back into an instagram account..? I stupidly forgot my login password. I would love any tricks you can offer me!
@Thaddeus Azariah Thanks so much for your reply. I got to the site through google and im in the hacking process now. Takes quite some time so I will get back to you later with my results.
I've done Game Air mostly because I focus on Airbrushing paints but I will dive into other paints not dedicated to airbrushing. But I'm about to start testing paints like the other Vallejo line up so I will test these in the near future. Thank you for watching
Your paint videos are great and I stumbled upon them today. I didn't know you spray off the piece and come in, I sprayed directly on it and was wondering why it didn't look as good.
LoL Ive never heard of a paint shaker before, thats awesome! To think of all the abuse my wrist has suffered over the years when I could have been using one of these.
Just curious, for the same colors like regular Vallejo red and Mecha red what's the difference. Red is red. Is Mecha a different formulation or is it just advertising and the same paint in a different bottle. What makes it different from the regular Vallejo. Is it the same price. Thanks for all of your videos, it's a real education thanks
They have polymer mix in them making them a bit more durable and can be handled better than their normal paints . They cost the same as their regular colors
To add on, some of these colors have been matched to the Mr. Hobby Official “Gundam Color” line of paints. If you go on Vallejos website and download the Mecha Color pamphlet it has a chart that shows you which of these colors correlates with the Gundam Color
I got the whole set. Was pleasantly suprised when I saw the washes work for panel lining. Ran out of white primer though, and I'm not sure if I'll replace it with 'Mecha Color Primer'. It was quite hard to spray, and you said the Model Air made no difference with priming (other than for yellow etc).
From their site. Mecha Color can be airbrushed directly or diluted with Vallejo Airbrush Thinner or Flow Improver, and the colors can also be applied by brush. The compressor adjustment recommended is 15 - 20 PSI o 0.5 to 1 kg. For best airbrush maintenance we recommend using the Vallejo Airbrush Cleaner. no needle size but i would think .3 or .4.
I found that with this particular paint line if you don't thin then you need a nozzle of at least 4mm. Everyone gets different results from different airbrushes of coarse because each brand atomizes the paint uniquely. I do like using their Flow Improver no matter the situation. They are great paints though, beautiful colors for sure.
@@barbatosrex9473 Awesome! I look forward to it. I'm new to airbrushing and have tried working with Mr. Color in the past but could never really get it to work. I don't think I was thinning enough. I've had better luck with Vallejo but I like the toughness of lacquers. I'm looking forward to your usual in-depthness so I can hopefully have a better time of working with Mr. Color.
Hello from a fellow Rhode Islander. I just picked up these paints and I couldn’t get it right then I saw this video. Thank you for doing this, keep up the good work. In your opinion which is better for this paint? I only have a 3mm and a 5mm. Not sure if I have the psi right.
I find Vallejo sprays good thru a 0.5mm without problems. With a 0.5mm you go with a lower air pressure. With a 0.3mm you need to thin it a bit but don't over thin it, and then go with a higher air pressure along the lines of 25 psi. I feel that Vallejo Model Air and Game Air line are their best for airbrushing. Remember a couple drops of Flow Improver goes a long way too
Thanks. My setup clog at that pressure with those paints. I'll try to dilute a bit more. By the way your channel and the videos that you upload are great reviews and resource. Love to see more every time
@@hernanvalenzuela874 I would also try a 4mm needle and go to 22 to 25 psi. That should absolutely solve your problem. Don't forget Flow Improver. And watch the follow up video to this where I clean it out of the airbrush
Thanks for sharing your experiences with all those paints. I'm only use acrylics, that being said, between mecha and aqueous. Which one do you prefer or recommend? Thanks! your response gonna help me a lot
Thanks for this video. Got my first airbrush a week ago and ended up getting a lot of these colors as people touted how easy they were to use. The product page also states it can be brushed on as well. Did you do any tests with brushes? Wondering if it would be a viable paint for detail work vs something like the Tamiya paints. Keep up the good work!
Yes it brushes great. I started to show how the paints brush at the end of my videos but I have brushed these and they go on good. Better than Tamiya. Tamiya in my opinion is one one the worst paints to brush
@@heybuddy1901 if you are gonna brush Tamiya you have to get the retarder they use as well as thinner or you can get the holy Grail of acrylic products "the Mr levelling thinner" which is a thinner and retarder all in one, the problem with brushing Tamiya is they are alcohol based so if brushed with just paint it will reactivate the last layer and peel it right off.
How about a Vallejo test. Premium Color vs. Mecha Color vs. Model Air vs. Model Color? Always the same colors. Quality of the colors. What thinner. Flow improver yes no! (Can I use Flow Improver for Premium Color?) Etc.etc.
Welp looks like im going to be watching lots of these when my Kits Come in. Just starting out in this airbrushing game lol Did autobody in Highschool so i have some basic paint knowledge and what not. Planned on putting in a good order with gundam pros so this definitely helps that. Is the flow improver always needed or is it optional for now?
I'm answering this late but if you plan to airbrush flow improver is a must to battle the notorious "tip dry" issue acrylics have, it also helps so the paint doesn't dry mid air and ruin your paint job.
I'm planning on painting minis in a style similar to comic book inking (look up Darkest Dungeon for the video game, I got the board game ordered). Do you think this paint range would work well as a base coat? I'm planning to Vallejo Mecha prime but not sure about on top yet. This is my first paint project, and have my clearance Harbor Freight airbrush waiting.
Hello! Is there any chance you can do a video with doing the first gloss coat for panel lining and decals? I use vallejo gloss and alclad aqua gloss and I can never get it so the panel line paint flows nicely. Thanks :)
I will make a note for it. I'm trying to gather up cheap plastic kits to use for reviews. I should have some next week. I will be doing a panel line test video for sure
I have this entire line but I don't use this paints so much. This is because their pallette. The quality is amazing but the colors they choose are very boring so the line feels very incomplete. I finally decided to sell it and to buy instead the new Dual Exo, by AK Interactive. I hope to see your review of Dual Exo paints some day. Best regards!
Why do you use so much paint for just one spoon? Really like this test, I want to paint my first Gundam and I am curious if the hard enough for handling the gundam.
This paint is perfect for handling. I would use this paint without worry. You could also Varnish it with Mecha Clear coats for more strength. I'll be reviewing the Mecha Clears soon
U gonna test Vallejo primers against each other? Oh btw what amount of drops did you use for yellow, because since I'm still a beginner I can't eye it out by memory and I usually do drops like the same of the flow improver like a tiny drip of paint
@@Greyhoundsniper late reply, it's more like 2:1 two parts paint one part thinner and then a couple drops flow, or 10 drops paint 5 drops thinner 2 drops flow
I was talking to on one of your other posts and now I can’t find it to see if you responded or not but I’m interested in trying the Vallejo paint I like the multiple colors and everything now with the Alclad like what’s the difference and everything I want learn the differences in paints and do you happen to have a Facebook page to our just a UA-cam channel
No Facebook but I'm on reddit and Instagram. There's several types of paint for the hobby. Vallejo is an acrylic meaning it's water based, no solvent. Alclad is a lacquer paint, it is a solvent based paint. Some people don't like using solvent paints cause of smell and its flammable. Acrylics have no bad smell and aren't flammable. There are different forms of acrylics including Tamiya which aren't a true acrylic as they have a solvent in them but Vallejo is a true acrylic meaning it's a pure water type base. The big difference as far as painting goes is the acrylic paints are more difficult to get great results without fine tuning where as the lacquer paints go on almost perfectly every time without much preparation. Me personally prefer lacquers. You should try both and see what works for you. Some paint in their living room or bedroom and the lacquer smell isn't great in that situation and it's why acrylics are popular with people who live in apartments or close with others. Some like me have a room in the basement with a spray booth so no where in the house can you smell my paint when I'm working. I hope this helps you out.
@@barbatosrex9473 I have a spray booth and I’m in a spare bedroom and I’m venting my booth out the window so either or is fine and ok I’ll kinda experience all of them now thinning them is at 2-1 or 3-1 and which pipets is considered the one part the medium ones or the big ones or is it which ever one you use use the same with the thinner
@@ouestudent2013 pipettes type don't matter. With lacquer you should thin it 50/50 minimum and acrylics are usually 70/30 to 60/40 depending on brand. Some are pre thinned so read the package. Alclad requires no thinning at all, you use it straight out of the bottle
@@barbatosrex9473 I was wondering also if you happen to have a video up on how to do decals I would love to learn how but I don’t know much or see much on how to do them
@@ouestudent2013 huge decal test coming this weekend. I posted about it in my community page on my channel. Go there to see a Pic of the decal solutions I'll be using
Have you tried these paints with any other thinners/flow improvers? I'm really interested to try it out because it's cheap and durable and those matte metallics look really nice, But I'm not so keen on buying yet another proprietary thinner and flow improver. And before you suggest the go-to Mr color leveling thinner (which I'd still be interested to know if you tried), I am also interested in these because they seem to spray so well despite not being a lacquer. Do please let me know if you think there's a better paint to look at for similar cost and quality of gunmetal and steel colors
For these you have to use their thinner. But for Gun Metal type colors I like Alclad or SMS brand paints. Alclad requires no thinning and SMS can me thinned using Leveling Thinner but they also require no thinning
@@barbatosrex9473 I too am loving alclad so far, but for only ~$5/oz for the Vallejo (not even taking into account thinning) I'm intrigued by a cheaper option for Gundam frames with those gunmetal and steel colors. I don't have access to SMS. I've tried Tamiya gunmetal but the metal flake is pretty big. Do you know if Tamiya has a better color or maybe Mr color? Sorry I've tried looking through your videos but I don't think I see any Mr color gunmetal or steel type colors reviewed
As far as flow improver, I'm using Createx "reducer" 4012. It's the exact same ingredients as the vallejo brand, 2-butoxy ethanol and water Also, both brands provide a Safety data sheet to compare "ingredients"
I do, just got a huge order of kits in. But the channel has taken off recently and I want to keep it updated with fresh content and that keeps me testing stuff more than building. However, if I get to 10K subs I will probably will be able to shift to part time work and focus the rest of my time here. Then I will be able to start building again. I'm about to build a Porsche Boxster kit and I'll be painting that kit here in a video
Speaking of the tape holder, I believe that the tamiya one is designed to protect the shape of the tape from dust and damage from collision, dust and damage that would make the tape problematic or unusable for optimal masking / painting. Thanks for the video, always very interesting.
hey rex how are you this is my first time so i hope i get it right this is my first airbrush i looked at many but i like you i hope you can help me find some models like the yamato
hello, i wwould like if anyone can tell me if it is nesesery to have a spark proof ventilator for your spray booth. I just start with airbrush and i use tamiya acrylic colors and i hear it is dangerous but then i saw a lot of people doing it with out any fear.
Unrelated question, based on your videos I decided to start painting my gunpla, my problem is that for my first project I picked the Space battleship Yamato 2202 1/1000 model. Any chance you can help me identifying how to reproduce the two main colors (blue and red) only using vallejo game air,model air or mecha colors?
@@barbatosrex9473 hello, thank you for the reply. Yes I did. However I put on the first coat of paint after the primer is dry to touch. Do you think that is the problem? Should I waited for the prime to cure for 24 hr? Thanks
@@barbatosrex9473 I have been learning a lot from your videos,I will be making and painting resin models, have you painted any yet, and if not make a video
@@Aestheticsauto I haven't done a resin kit yet but it's on the list. I work 7 days a week now and when I plan on a major build I want to have at least a few days off a week. I feel that as my channel grows ill be able to divide my time between regular work hours and this channel. Then I will dive into to good stuff full on
How well do they apply with brush. I'm looking for a pure white color but all other versions game/model all sold out of dead white. Don't want something to shinny
@@barbatosrex9473 lastly how does it compaire to citadel paints as I hate the pots. I want a replacement for " iron breaker" (which is close to chainmail vallejo. As citadel paints are usually matt
I just bought the Steel the other day on a whim... Actually find it to be a bit glossy. Looks more like a glossy gray than a metallic even... I'll stick with Alclad or AK Xtreme metals
When GTRs were GTRs, before (Datsun) and after (nissan)...then came Ghosn and Renault (piece of crap or crap in pieces), or whatever the name, Carlos the man that was trafficked in a suitcase out of a country...If someone told me that story I would say they were jocking
Thank you so much for taking the time to test and post this.
Sir, you have no idea how much this helps so many of us. (including myself) Greatly appreciated! Excellent review of these colors!
Loving that SZ Red, may have to pick one up myself.
Thanks buddy, it's much appreciated
The longer you wait the better. Also scuffing the surface od the plastic is a big help too. Use a super fine grit or scuff pad
The Mecha varnishes really help improve the durability of the paint, and the Metal Color Varnish adds a nice sheen to metallics as well. This stuff is so good, I rarely wish I could use lacquers.
I will be testing the Varnish very soon, I just got them in
how come you cant use lacquers?
@@thedandy6765 Late reply, though this is a 2 year old video to begin with. They likely don't have proper ventilation and space to spray solvent based (lacquer, some acrylics, enamel, etc) paints. Lacquer and solvent based are hazardous, flammable, toxic, and smell. Vallejo Mecha is a waterbased acrylic, and a true one at that. Some paint mfg's lie or stretch the truth and claim waterbased, but in actuality use solvents such as lacquer or alcohol.
Outstanding video thank you
You're welcome my friend
Watching this video I can definitely say that these paints are made for an airbrush. I've tried them with a normal brush and the effect was not as impressive. Great video!
You really out here doing the Lord's work 🙌
"Blue blue electric blue that's the colour of my room, where I live in, blue blue!!!!!" One of the best artists of the 20th century!
amazing test of these colors it si helpfull and interesting see someone showing tests of colors and other products you are good man :)
Thanks buddy, I'm trying my best. Thanks for the great feedback.
I love that gunmetal. I just did a duel gundam inner frame in it
Great color for sure, one of my favorites
nice that you have the magenta and several cyan-ish along with the yellow for cmy mixing
Warhammer gamer here. This is a much appreciated video from an “allied trade”. Many thanks. The mecha range looks like it offers a lot.
It's a great line up of paint for sure. Awesome colors too. Thanks for watching
your videos are amazing, you have saved me a lot of money and time! new suscriber :)
thank you and keep up the good work man!
Thanks buddy for the kind words and thank you for watching. I have many more paint test to go so thanks for subscribing
@@barbatosrex9473 cool man :) I have a question, I'm 3d printing with resin some highly detailed earrings and I want to paint the prints with airbrush and some details with a small brush, but i'm not sure if the vallejo's mecha color + a varnish will keep the tiny details and be strong enough/scratch-proof for an object that's gonna be manipulated everyday. Do you know what could be the best paint for this kind of job? Enamel, lacquers or any paint that create fumes are not a problem for me because I paint with a fullface mask with organic fumes filter (the same i use for handling the resin). Thank you man!
Cool :) Have you tried airbrushing Citadel paints before? Was thinking of trying this for some Warhammer stuff
awsum video, waiting to get these paints as most places are out of stock of the big case with the mecha paints, enjoy watching your videos, keep up the awsum vids
Super informative video. What's your opinion, is this the toughest scratch-resistant paint? Or which are better?
For an acrylic, this is good as is any polyurethane based acrylics. As far as any type of paint goes, enamels are the most durable paint.
Thank you for doing this, truly appreciate your time and effort!
Thanks for watching
Keep these videos coming. I picked up some alclad paints thanks to your chrome video. It looks fantastic.
Many more videos to come that's for sure. Thank you for the kind feedback and for watching
Thank you so much for your sharing! It's really helpful for me to decide which colour I should buy! Because so much out there and all the bottles look similar until we try it. Good man!
I been spraying this stuff dry right out of the bottle and always felt like I was wasting more paint than should. I only recently started to thin it down and MAN does that make a difference.
That's great, smoother paint and you stretch out your paint thus saving money. Thanks for watching
Some very vibrant colours in that range
Great video. After two years of building Gunpla and attempting to stick with spray cans, I’m finally employed again, and saving up some cash for an airbrush + compressor and a good waterbased paint line. I just can’t do the solvent ones (at least as my main air paint) cuz I don’t have a fume extractor, it’s just too much money for a cheap one even. I like Vallejo’s range of colors but I didn’t like that they were acrylics, but the Mecha colors boast a high durability once clear coated than their other acrylic colors. Hoping these will work well out of a cheap airbrush set (getting a NoName Cool Tooty entry level airbrush, I forget the name of the low range set one specifically but I’m hopefully buying it from spray gunner). I’ve seen other people recommending this paint for airbrushing right out of the bottle, too. Hoping these work out well with the airbrush I’m gonna buy!
Great detailed video. I'm actually trying to hand brush gunpla with vallejo mecha color. I have the flow improver mixed with water and I'm going to add a thinner to the mix as well. The black primer is wonderful to work with for hand painting. The "grey" color annoyed me because it turned out it had a blue base in the pigment where the color that I wanted was the stone grey. I have a few other colors but I'm still figuring out the right mix for hand painting.
Thanks for the video, dude! Might do my first pain job with an HG Heavyarms with this and a harbor freight paintbrush
Good luck buddy, keep me updated in the build
I've been looking to improve and update my paint stash and these look just about what I'm looking for. Thanks for doing this test my friend....
Thanks for watching buddy
Thanks for the review!
Anytime Guy
I started using some of these colors the like basic red, blue and yellow are such so rich. This line really has a nice choice of greys and blues
Sweet colours! Thanks for testing these.
It would be interesting to see how their different mediums affect the way their colors work. Both in how they finish off, and how they allow the base coats to show through. Their metal medium is a fun thing to add to any color to get a metallic sheen as well! If you liked how the blue and red metallic look, try that metal medium with the turquoise. :) Great video sir!
Love the metals. The gun metal is fantastic! Copper looked strange compared to what I'm used to seeing. Not a lot of orange over the black. The steel and dark steel are nice as well.
Vallejo has some amazing metallics for the air brush. Metal Color Air is pretty baller. I use it with my paint brushes and air brushes. They're pretty much the only metalocs I use.
Great review video. Very nice colors. Thanks for sharing. I just subbed
Thanks buddy 👍
My question is where did you find so many of the go to colors I can barely find a handful
Top review as usual..i have the 3 steel colours..very nice
Thanks, I was wondering about those for a bandi kit I bought. I can't find Gianotes in this country and need something durable for my gundam. Awesome review.
Did an basecoat of Vallejo Game Color skin on my Vigo head and OMG it was painful to do, first i didn't have enough paint, then i wasn't sure if the mixture (skin paint1+skin paint2 + thinner+flow improver) was thin enough, had the compressor set to 20, then the paint would dry too fast, then bc of the light i couldn't get uniform color and some of the crevices are slightly grey from the primer underneath. I did it 4 times to get enough paint, first time i tested on a spoon and that ended perfect, with the head i think it's harder because of the shape. I'm new to this so i will hopefully get better at determining the amount of paint needed for the size of an object.
Older video, but their website states that these were specifically made for airbrushing with a low PSI with a satin finish. The main thing that makes these unique from their other airbrush lines is its durability with joints and posing.
Brilliant review! Picked up a dinged up 1993 power rangers megazord toy that's scratched to hell. Plan is to repair and sand the surface which would also require a good paint durable to withstand the odd handling and rare combination for photos. Looks like this range would be perfect!
I'm excited to see some videos on the varnishes.. i have some gloss and some matte on order (as well as dozen or so of the mecha paints) and the vendor is taking their time shipping them, so it'll be cool to see some videos about how well they work.
I'll be testing the Mecha Varnish over the weekend. I'll post the video over the weekend
Hey thanks for the review , been using the mecha color range and agree that the gold is not great but the steels color are great!
You are absolutely correct, the gold and copper didn't seem to match the quality of the rest of the lineup. The other metal colors are great though
Great video, as always! Now I can actually buy some mecha colors without doubts. Would you consider making a video on Citiadel paints? The ones from Games Workshop (Warhammer). Their range is 100% pure acrylics so I think it could be a nice comparison!
A Games Workshop store opened up just a mile down the road from me. I'll go there and see what they got. I'll pick up some of their Air paints for testing. Thanks for letting me know
I guess Im asking randomly but does anybody know of a trick to get back into an instagram account..?
I stupidly forgot my login password. I would love any tricks you can offer me!
@Judah Kaden instablaster =)
@Thaddeus Azariah Thanks so much for your reply. I got to the site through google and im in the hacking process now.
Takes quite some time so I will get back to you later with my results.
@Thaddeus Azariah It did the trick and I now got access to my account again. I am so happy!
Thank you so much you saved my account !
Nice video, would like to see testing vallejo game color!
I've done Game Air mostly because I focus on Airbrushing paints but I will dive into other paints not dedicated to airbrushing. But I'm about to start testing paints like the other Vallejo line up so I will test these in the near future. Thank you for watching
My man thank you so much for this video
Any time buddy 👍
Awesome Video Sir, thanks for Sharing n God Bless All.
Your paint videos are great and I stumbled upon them today. I didn't know you spray off the piece and come in, I sprayed directly on it and was wondering why it didn't look as good.
Great videos! Keep it up
Thanks buddy
LoL Ive never heard of a paint shaker before, thats awesome! To think of all the abuse my wrist has suffered over the years when I could have been using one of these.
I just posted the link to the paint Shaker I use
When will the chrome colors video be? Plz answer if u can😀
Pretty soon, I had to order clear color lacquers to use and they were tricky to track down. Hopefully within 2 weeks
Ok not to nerd out but holy crap that yellow would be perfect for Supermans S
It's a great color
Just curious, for the same colors like regular Vallejo red and Mecha red what's the difference. Red is red. Is Mecha a different formulation or is it just advertising and the same paint in a different bottle. What makes it different from the regular Vallejo. Is it the same price. Thanks for all of your videos, it's a real education thanks
They have polymer mix in them making them a bit more durable and can be handled better than their normal paints . They cost the same as their regular colors
To add on, some of these colors have been matched to the Mr. Hobby Official “Gundam Color” line of paints. If you go on Vallejos website and download the Mecha Color pamphlet it has a chart that shows you which of these colors correlates with the Gundam Color
I got the whole set. Was pleasantly suprised when I saw the washes work for panel lining. Ran out of white primer though, and I'm not sure if I'll replace it with 'Mecha Color Primer'. It was quite hard to spray, and you said the Model Air made no difference with priming (other than for yellow etc).
Thanks for the excellent video as always. It would be interesting to see how these paints work on their own Mecha primers. :)
A primer shoot vid is in the works
@@barbatosrex9473 can't wait to see it!
Nice vid !!! 👍👍👍
Hey Rex where are you buying this paint, I'm wanting to get the whole set after I saw this!!
Www.scalehobbyist.com
@@barbatosrex9473 Thank you!!
I think this should really round up my selection of paints. Some of them looked nice. It should brushed ok too, I guess. Thank you
From their site.
Mecha Color can be airbrushed directly or diluted with Vallejo Airbrush Thinner or Flow Improver, and the colors can also be applied by brush. The compressor adjustment recommended is 15 - 20 PSI o 0.5 to 1 kg. For best airbrush maintenance we recommend using the Vallejo Airbrush Cleaner. no needle size but i would think .3 or .4.
I found that with this particular paint line if you don't thin then you need a nozzle of at least 4mm. Everyone gets different results from different airbrushes of coarse because each brand atomizes the paint uniquely. I do like using their Flow Improver no matter the situation. They are great paints though, beautiful colors for sure.
Awesome video! Which do you prefer, these or the Mr. Color Gundam Colors? Or just Mr. Color lacquers in general.
Mr Color in general are my favorite paints. I'll be doing a video on them soon too
@@barbatosrex9473 Awesome! I look forward to it. I'm new to airbrushing and have tried working with Mr. Color in the past but could never really get it to work. I don't think I was thinning enough. I've had better luck with Vallejo but I like the toughness of lacquers. I'm looking forward to your usual in-depthness so I can hopefully have a better time of working with Mr. Color.
Hello from a fellow Rhode Islander. I just picked up these paints and I couldn’t get it right then I saw this video. Thank you for doing this, keep up the good work. In your opinion which is better for this paint? I only have a 3mm and a 5mm. Not sure if I have the psi right.
I find Vallejo sprays good thru a 0.5mm without problems. With a 0.5mm you go with a lower air pressure. With a 0.3mm you need to thin it a bit but don't over thin it, and then go with a higher air pressure along the lines of 25 psi. I feel that Vallejo Model Air and Game Air line are their best for airbrushing. Remember a couple drops of Flow Improver goes a long way too
Thank you for the tip. I will give it a shot
what pressure are you using? and needle size?
3mm needle and about 18 to 20 psi
Thanks. My setup clog at that pressure with those paints. I'll try to dilute a bit more. By the way your channel and the videos that you upload are great reviews and resource. Love to see more every time
@@hernanvalenzuela874 I would also try a 4mm needle and go to 22 to 25 psi. That should absolutely solve your problem. Don't forget Flow Improver. And watch the follow up video to this where I clean it out of the airbrush
hands down the BEST Yellow on the market.
Thanks for sharing your experiences with all those paints.
I'm only use acrylics, that being said, between mecha and aqueous. Which one do you prefer or recommend?
Thanks! your response gonna help me a lot
Aqueous for sure. Did you see my Aqueous video. I'm guessing you did.
What aqueous are you referring to here? A different Vallejo line? The Mr color acrylics? Something else? Thanks!
@@LawrenceValverde hi! Mr hobby Line
Which red would you recommend for a sentai minipla?
If I want to thin the bottle, how much % of thinner do I need
will you be doing gaianotes metallic paints next?
It's coming up soon, within a week
I've a .3 airbrush, at how psi you recommend to spray?
15 to 18 psi is perfect
Hi, for your airbrush booth do you ever clean out the blue foam part? If so how and how often? Thanks!
paint the bottom tip of the spoon handle with primer so you can see what spoon is primed in.
A great idea that I will use going forward. Thank you friend for this tip.
I always enjoy your videos. What is your camera setup ? It’s the perfect angle . I can’t get mine right no matter what I try.
It's just a Galaxy Note 10 Plus. It's mounted to a flexible arm with a ball joint that allows you to get the perfect angle
BARBATOS REX, IS ALWAYS ON THE BALL, WHEN IT DEALS WITH VALLEJO'S PAINTS!
What flow improver / thinning ratio aid pressure is used?
Thanks for this video. Got my first airbrush a week ago and ended up getting a lot of these colors as people touted how easy they were to use. The product page also states it can be brushed on as well. Did you do any tests with brushes? Wondering if it would be a viable paint for detail work vs something like the Tamiya paints. Keep up the good work!
Yes it brushes great. I started to show how the paints brush at the end of my videos but I have brushed these and they go on good. Better than Tamiya. Tamiya in my opinion is one one the worst paints to brush
@@barbatosrex9473 Awesome! thanks for the quick reply, your videos have been an immeasurable help with the loads of info out there.
@@heybuddy1901 if you are gonna brush Tamiya you have to get the retarder they use as well as thinner or you can get the holy Grail of acrylic products "the Mr levelling thinner" which is a thinner and retarder all in one, the problem with brushing Tamiya is they are alcohol based so if brushed with just paint it will reactivate the last layer and peel it right off.
How about a Vallejo test. Premium Color vs. Mecha Color vs. Model Air vs. Model Color?
Always the same colors. Quality of the colors. What thinner. Flow improver yes no! (Can I use Flow Improver for Premium Color?) Etc.etc.
Welp looks like im going to be watching lots of these when my Kits Come in. Just starting out in this airbrushing game lol Did autobody in Highschool so i have some basic paint knowledge and what not. Planned on putting in a good order with gundam pros so this definitely helps that. Is the flow improver always needed or is it optional for now?
I'm answering this late but if you plan to airbrush flow improver is a must to battle the notorious "tip dry" issue acrylics have, it also helps so the paint doesn't dry mid air and ruin your paint job.
How to handbrush with this? Got a few bottles and uncertain how to use it properly compared to tamiya and Mt. Hobby aqueous
I'm planning on painting minis in a style similar to comic book inking (look up Darkest Dungeon for the video game, I got the board game ordered). Do you think this paint range would work well as a base coat? I'm planning to Vallejo Mecha prime but not sure about on top yet. This is my first paint project, and have my clearance Harbor Freight airbrush waiting.
Hello!
Is there any chance you can do a video with doing the first gloss coat for panel lining and decals?
I use vallejo gloss and alclad aqua gloss and I can never get it so the panel line paint flows nicely.
Thanks :)
I will make a note for it. I'm trying to gather up cheap plastic kits to use for reviews. I should have some next week. I will be doing a panel line test video for sure
@@barbatosrex9473 thanks! The content you put out is so helpful :)
I have this entire line but I don't use this paints so much. This is because their pallette. The quality is amazing but the colors they choose are very boring so the line feels very incomplete. I finally decided to sell it and to buy instead the new Dual Exo, by AK Interactive. I hope to see your review of Dual Exo paints some day. Best regards!
Why do you use so much paint for just one spoon?
Really like this test, I want to paint my first Gundam and I am curious if the hard enough for handling the gundam.
This paint is perfect for handling. I would use this paint without worry. You could also Varnish it with Mecha Clear coats for more strength. I'll be reviewing the Mecha Clears soon
U gonna test Vallejo primers against each other? Oh btw what amount of drops did you use for yellow, because since I'm still a beginner I can't eye it out by memory and I usually do drops like the same of the flow improver like a tiny drip of paint
With this paint in particular I would go with a 60/30 paint thinner ratio. Mix it up then a couple drops of Flow
@@barbatosrex9473 guessing that's 6 paint and 8 thinner drops
@@Greyhoundsniper late reply, it's more like 2:1 two parts paint one part thinner and then a couple drops flow, or 10 drops paint 5 drops thinner 2 drops flow
I was talking to on one of your other posts and now I can’t find it to see if you responded or not but I’m interested in trying the Vallejo paint I like the multiple colors and everything now with the Alclad like what’s the difference and everything I want learn the differences in paints and do you happen to have a Facebook page to our just a UA-cam channel
No Facebook but I'm on reddit and Instagram. There's several types of paint for the hobby. Vallejo is an acrylic meaning it's water based, no solvent. Alclad is a lacquer paint, it is a solvent based paint. Some people don't like using solvent paints cause of smell and its flammable. Acrylics have no bad smell and aren't flammable. There are different forms of acrylics including Tamiya which aren't a true acrylic as they have a solvent in them but Vallejo is a true acrylic meaning it's a pure water type base. The big difference as far as painting goes is the acrylic paints are more difficult to get great results without fine tuning where as the lacquer paints go on almost perfectly every time without much preparation. Me personally prefer lacquers. You should try both and see what works for you. Some paint in their living room or bedroom and the lacquer smell isn't great in that situation and it's why acrylics are popular with people who live in apartments or close with others. Some like me have a room in the basement with a spray booth so no where in the house can you smell my paint when I'm working. I hope this helps you out.
@@barbatosrex9473 I have a spray booth and I’m in a spare bedroom and I’m venting my booth out the window so either or is fine and ok I’ll kinda experience all of them now thinning them is at 2-1 or 3-1 and which pipets is considered the one part the medium ones or the big ones or is it which ever one you use use the same with the thinner
@@ouestudent2013 pipettes type don't matter. With lacquer you should thin it 50/50 minimum and acrylics are usually 70/30 to 60/40 depending on brand. Some are pre thinned so read the package. Alclad requires no thinning at all, you use it straight out of the bottle
@@barbatosrex9473 I was wondering also if you happen to have a video up on how to do decals I would love to learn how but I don’t know much or see much on how to do them
@@ouestudent2013 huge decal test coming this weekend. I posted about it in my community page on my channel. Go there to see a Pic of the decal solutions I'll be using
Have you tried these paints with any other thinners/flow improvers? I'm really interested to try it out because it's cheap and durable and those matte metallics look really nice, But I'm not so keen on buying yet another proprietary thinner and flow improver. And before you suggest the go-to Mr color leveling thinner (which I'd still be interested to know if you tried), I am also interested in these because they seem to spray so well despite not being a lacquer. Do please let me know if you think there's a better paint to look at for similar cost and quality of gunmetal and steel colors
For these you have to use their thinner. But for Gun Metal type colors I like Alclad or SMS brand paints. Alclad requires no thinning and SMS can me thinned using Leveling Thinner but they also require no thinning
@@barbatosrex9473 I too am loving alclad so far, but for only ~$5/oz for the Vallejo (not even taking into account thinning) I'm intrigued by a cheaper option for Gundam frames with those gunmetal and steel colors. I don't have access to SMS. I've tried Tamiya gunmetal but the metal flake is pretty big. Do you know if Tamiya has a better color or maybe Mr color? Sorry I've tried looking through your videos but I don't think I see any Mr color gunmetal or steel type colors reviewed
As far as flow improver, I'm using Createx "reducer" 4012. It's the exact same ingredients as the vallejo brand, 2-butoxy ethanol and water
Also, both brands provide a Safety data sheet to compare "ingredients"
hello, I didn't understand what ratio you use between color and thinner.
The pressure you use the one you showed for the other vallejo air?
Same pressure as the Air. The ratio on these is about 70/30 paint to thinner. If you have troubles with that go to 60/40
@@barbatosrex9473 Thx
do you ever build anything with all those paints ?
I do, just got a huge order of kits in. But the channel has taken off recently and I want to keep it updated with fresh content and that keeps me testing stuff more than building. However, if I get to 10K subs I will probably will be able to shift to part time work and focus the rest of my time here. Then I will be able to start building again. I'm about to build a Porsche Boxster kit and I'll be painting that kit here in a video
What thinning ratio would recommend for Mecha color?
Just a few drops of thinner and a couple drops of Flow Improver. A 3mm needle or larger is my preference
Speaking of the tape holder, I believe that the tamiya one is designed to protect the shape of the tape from dust and damage from collision,
dust and damage that would make the tape problematic or unusable for optimal masking / painting. Thanks for the video, always very interesting.
Yes, I put the tape back in a ZipLock bag when I'm done with it at the bench
Whats the difference between mecha vs normal vallejo
hey rex how are you this is my first time so i hope i get it right this is my first airbrush i looked at many but i like you i hope you can help me find some models like the yamato
Which kits are you looking for?
the 1:350 scale or any star blazer a catolog would be nice@@barbatosrex9473
@@sidneywaller9558 I'll check but the largest Star Blazer kit I've seen was 1/500
@@barbatosrex9473 I sorry but the 1:350 scale I was talking about was the world war 2 model any scale will be nice long as it has nice details
hello, i wwould like if anyone can tell me if it is nesesery to have a spark proof ventilator for your spray booth. I just start with airbrush and i use tamiya acrylic colors and i hear it is dangerous but then i saw a lot of people doing it with out any fear.
It an old theory that has since passed. Any fan you buy today will not be a problem for you
Unrelated question, based on your videos I decided to start painting my gunpla, my problem is that for my first project I picked the Space battleship Yamato 2202 1/1000 model. Any chance you can help me identifying how to reproduce the two main colors (blue and red) only using vallejo game air,model air or mecha colors?
I have that kit. Not sure of the Vallejo paint names but the 2 colors are Blue Gray and Hull Red
how long do i have to keep it to dry before masking? I waited for 1 day and still chip
Did you have a primer under it?
@@barbatosrex9473 hello, thank you for the reply. Yes I did. However I put on the first coat of paint after the primer is dry to touch. Do you think that is the problem? Should I waited for the prime to cure for 24 hr? Thanks
What tape kit is that?
It's a scotch tape dispenser I got at the craft store that I put my Tamiya masking tape in it
@@barbatosrex9473 I have been learning a lot from your videos,I will be making and painting resin models, have you painted any yet, and if not make a video
@@barbatosrex9473 from where could not find at all..
@@Aestheticsauto I haven't done a resin kit yet but it's on the list. I work 7 days a week now and when I plan on a major build I want to have at least a few days off a week. I feel that as my channel grows ill be able to divide my time between regular work hours and this channel. Then I will dive into to good stuff full on
How well do they apply with brush. I'm looking for a pure white color but all other versions game/model all sold out of dead white.
Don't want something to shinny
It brushes pretty good. I would add a few drops of Flow Improver to get a smooth finish. It's a great paint
@@barbatosrex9473 lastly how does it compaire to citadel paints as I hate the pots. I want a replacement for " iron breaker" (which is close to chainmail vallejo. As citadel paints are usually matt
Been using mecha paints for a few months. Really good however hate their gold and copper as it is flaky.
You are spot on there buddy
I just bought the Steel the other day on a whim... Actually find it to be a bit glossy. Looks more like a glossy gray than a metallic even... I'll stick with Alclad or AK Xtreme metals
You can't beat Alclad or the AK for metal colors
I wonder if anyone’s using this kind of paint on models like the starship enterprise some space or science fiction stuff?
I'll be using this on a Ace Combat aircraft kit. Blues and greys.
Nice fingernail is the most important as that is probably the hardest thing that is going to touch your kit.
Electric Bluegaloo.
you didnt paint steel dude you painted lightsteel and dark steel dude
When GTRs were GTRs, before (Datsun) and after (nissan)...then came Ghosn and Renault (piece of crap or crap in pieces), or whatever the name, Carlos the man that was trafficked in a suitcase out of a country...If someone told me that story I would say they were jocking
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