@@ArnoldQMudskipper Im pretty sure they hear me fart like every 10 minutes, at this point they could gave the entire accoustical range for inserting into songs... And yes when they had a child running around up there (assuming its their grandkid or babysitting for family for a day), it was like living inside a drum and true on every squeeky hinge. I forgot how much energy kids have constantly running around everywhere.
Been insulating, drywalling and taping houses for 23 years and I always ask the homeowners if they want us to insulate certain rooms and they usually say no it should be fine. 6 months to a year later I'm back in these homes sound proofing those same rooms. What would have cost them $100-$200 in extra insulation ends up costing thousands in renos. Listen to the experts people.
Blame the people who call themselves "experts" and then do everything they can to sell customers every expensive upcharge they can. Now, the average person just instinctively says no every time anyone hits them with "Would you like me to also do X for you?"
We had the opposite. We asked for the extra during build and the builder said no, that we would have to do it as a renovation later because the houses were cookie cutter and pre-assembled with pre-planned material. Reddiculous. I get it, but reddiculous.
@@SteveB-nx2uo If they’re both bedrooms then it is code to have a return air in both. Doesn’t matter what the customer wants if it won’t pass inspection. Also in HVAC.
This goes even CRAZIER doing recording studios. We had to build a separate raised concrete slab on the concrete flooring and framed a wall outside the raised slab and on the edge of the raised slab. Essentially, we framed a raised floored room within another room. We then used kinetic isolation brackets from one of the internal studs slightly offset from the studs for the outside wall. Double layer both sides with a plywood backing layer in between them on the inside with foam insulation finished surface on the inside starting at 6' up to the doubke-layered floating ceiling that literally didn't touch the walls with a half inch gap that got insulated before caulking with cp506. We were told we'd probably never do work like that again in our whole career because almost no one cares about noise isolation as intense as the client did for their 8 recording studios. If I was doing my own home, that staggered stud framing in the video is what I'd be doing.
Exactly . What you did is sound PROOF . What the framers did is sound DEADENING. No disrespect to the guy but don’t tell me staggered 2x4’s and some dry wall I can’t hear a lady scream being murdered from the other side😂😂 but I bet I could in that studio!! 😂😂😂😂😂😂
Agreed! Disconnecting partitions from sound bridging materials (common studs) is only ONE part of achieving a high STC rating. At the end of the day, sound transmission is impeded by mass far more than any one assembly method taken in isolation. More mass equals more layers. I've done theaters where they've installed six layers of 5/8" drywall both sides to kill sound. When was the last time anyone ever heard a movie playing next door?
Glad someone else got to this before me. Got to help build a room within a room at the last studio I worked in. Great experience and learned a load about sound transmission and acoustics and sound treatment. Luckily the one I'm at now was already built!
Used to work for a recording studio in Nashville (The Tracking Room, apparently since closed down) that was literally a 10,000 sq ft building within another building. There was a 12" gap around the entire circumference, between the studio wall and the external wall, that you could squeeze your way around. 50' away from the highway and couldn't hear a damn thing inside
@@pseudonymnthere is a better way than just adding layers of drywall. 2 drywall layers with green glue in between would have probably done more than using 6 layers of drywall alone.
I just did my first apartment complex with this last year. It doesn’t seem much better than RC channel. But I also don’t live at the place so maybe it is better.
@@alexvids9232 you couldn't hire me. I don't work for idiots. One of the luxuries of having a huge client base. Again back to the been in business for many years. Nobody has seen everything. Building methods also change dramatically as you change States, geographic and weather conditions. Much less countries.
@@PandaCheeks I build them. Most party walls are double framed with air gap and insulation. Some have sound board or Rc1. All ceilings are insulated 18 inch trusses with rc1 and gypcrete. That's been standard for only about 10 years
@@rtreyk oh yeah! Then explain to me why my upstair neighbors sound like they are doing an exorcism on a gd elephant at 2 in the morning? Explain that to me Bob the builder👷♂️ 🤣
@kcpc55 Plumber here: i could easily weave pex water lines through that. As for drain lines, I could usually keep things vertical instead of going horizontal. This will add cost and decrease ability for easy changes, but is possible.
I used this method in a house I built many years ago. I wanted to prevent sounds from adjacent bedrooms to be attenuated as much as possible. It worked. But a builder has also to consider sound going through the ceiling. Good insulation in the space spanning the rooms is a must.
If isn't acoustical barrier, then doesn't make that much of the difference, but any think into that will cost you mostly twice and even more as regular insulation.
My Grandma had a wooden spoon her carpenter husband built her (he probably didn't really)... we never even got hit with it and come to think of it never even SAW said spoon. Was I well-behaved at Grannies all those years for nothing?!?!? Nothing like a well placed implied threat!
If that's your theory... Then what about the drywall that's connected to the top and bottom parts of the wall?! Just use some insulation inside of the wall.
@@OldsmobileCutlass1969Va in old rowhomes you could actually lift the floor joist and put rubber in between to try to isolate DROK the neighbors. But if you’re worried about noise don’t live in the city in a row home yoo
Expensive, but simply add a sheet of foam over the rock. Then frame a wall of 2x2's against that, and rock that wall. Use minimum nails thru the foam and rock to tie the two walls together.
@@umadbrayou seem special… you know he most likely did that too, Rock wool insulation is a sound dampening insulation used in walls. A professional studio would most likely do both, sound insulate the inside and outside of the wall. Just to clarify things for you… you tried to make his studio seem bad I think? but instead showed your ignorance.
@@fourtysix4646 boohoo? How do you know he did? You said most likely, that means you don't know. Just ASSuming. I am the special one? I know you are the retarded one.
Our apartment complex was originally designed to be condos but the developers reconsidered the units to be apartments. The GREAT thing about when it was built was that all the shared apartment walls were built with plywood on both sides of the walls. This has been WONDERFUL as you NEVER hear your neighbors TV, music, etc. Therefore NO noise complaints to the property management staff and no stress for the tenants. Noise complaints are the top stressors for tenants and property management staff. This should be incorporated into the apartment building codes.
I am going to have my house built in 2 years and love watching these because it gives you GREAT IDEAS what to tell your contractors ahead of time👍 thank you.
If it were me, I wouldn't tell my contractor anything. I woukd ask questions such as, "what are your thoughts on staggering the studs to reduce the sound transfer?"
@@timothyball3144 excellent suggestion. Definitely ask before signing a contract. Once you select one. Don't play games. As a 52yr old carpenter that does residential remodeling for a living, I dont mind 20 questions, before a job is signed.
Except for that blocking midway up the wall that is very likely hitting the rear studs. Then the trades come in, and put a non-acoustically sealed outlet or low voltage plate in the wall. Then the HVAC guys install a shared air supply to both rooms, with a return air in the same vicinity. And the doors are not solid core.
I'm a hvac guy and i can absolutely confirm. The only soundproofing we care about is not having to listen to the customer belly aching about how we compromised his soundproofed dry wall.
Awesome 👍 We used the staggered stud technique on the outside walls on a house we built right next to the highway. It also allows for more continuous insulation.
@@PedroKing99 if i was doing this in a studio i would do the staggered studs like this, fill with rockwool, double up sheetrock with acoustic sealant between the layers. should be as soundproof as you can make.
I do this too but I go 24” on center per side or 12” in center for both sides. This reduces the wood by 2 2”x4” per 4 feet of run. More insulation on a staggered wall reduces sound that much more. I also run my insulation laterally to gain better edge to edge contact. It definitely works and I am actually doing one this month.
That's a good start. I demo'ed the walls of music listening rooms in a library that was built in 1953. The walls had independent framing, sheathed in chipboard, 2 ply drywall, and none of the walls were parallel which prevented standing waves. You really need mass and separation to soundproof. Walls were finished with a heavy wall covering that had a coarse burlap base. When I got to the building in 1992 they no longer had listening equipment because everyone had a stereo in their dorm room, but I did use the rooms for recording music.
I designed a music studio once - we made sure it had all of this you just listed. I was going to comment on these elements of design but you covered it.
@@emmanuelgutierrez8616 Its more about the transmission of vibration through solid objects. We did 2x4 sticks on interior walls that had 2" to 4" space between them on separate base boards, with "egg-crate" foam backing, with zero contact with opposite side of the wall, and the other side of the same wall wasn't parallel. Neither the recording room or the sound booth had a single 90° corner. We ended up hanging soft foam "egg crate" materials behind stretched fabric panels on the walls and soft foam ceiling sculptures too. Zero sound transmission. Connecting passage was an airlock with soft skinned insulated doors and the doors weren't parallel opposite.
The theory of non transference is kindda correct. You will still get transfer across the bottom and top plate as they are connected. Also you will transmission in the floor void. The system described here goes some way to mitigate some sound and n the higher frequency range, but more could be done with only a little more effort.
Oh man if I could go back and tell the guys who built my condo... I'd have them stuff the walls with as much sound insulating/absorbing material as necessary. Now if I want to do it it will be a very expensive project involving ripping all the drywall down and redoing it.
Came with a similar comment. A floating room within a room with extensive sound absorption and deadening technology is the only way to most efficiently reduce sound transmission. It will never be 100% silent. Not with wood construction anyway.
I did this in a drum room with scrap lumber, dumpster insulation and a layer of drywall. Only the dumpster snatched door is a little leaky but cheap insulation made a huge difference, silent outside the garage.
I would say you need a backer board, maybe a 2x6 or sheet of Baltic birch furniture ply to catch multiple studs. Screw it on with some long deck or construction screws, then bolt your hardware to the backer 👍
From a friend: place one stud flat along the interior of the drywall with 90 degree angle irons holding it in place, 3/4” anchor bolt directly to (through) the drywall and stud and bolt an O ring down. Attach cuffs to O ring; if preferred, throw away the cuff key
I was once commissioned to sound proof some rooms in a music college. We used 70 mm steel studs staggered with seperate top and bottom plates. We then wove 50 mm fibreglass blankets between the studs, added layer of 6 mm cement sheeting and 2 layers of fireproof gyprock either side of the wall. We could not hear the students playing their violins at all. Success!
THANK YOU. I was the helper 1 time helping my buddy try to soundproof his boy's room Just framed and insulated Normally used sound proof Insulation. It did very little. Fantastic idea makes so much sense. Very rad detail....
I won't "um ackshually" you since this is not the best way, but it's definitely the most approachable way to reduce sound transmission. Works for conventional rooms, but if you have a theater or music room you still end up with the flanking paths that are the plates. Also important to properly seal electrical boxes and use heavier doors, depending on how sound-tight you need it to be. This is a relatively simple way that's also cost effective though, I've used it myself.
@@313chicken Soundproof Your Studio is a really helpful UA-cam channel that's probably the most reliable I've come across. Best book hands down is Rod Gervais' "Build It Like The Pros", it's the industry standard for studio builds. Soundproof Your Studio follows that methodology but also presents budget friendlier options. Always happy to answer questions from my own experience if you have any
🎉party walls🎉 The drywall crew can work with this staggering of studs on interior walls( like with ease?)? Or does the staggering of the studs make drywalling insufferable?
The thickness of the drywall on the 2 sides of the wall needs to be 1/3 different. The staggered studs and 1/3 different thickness drywall is how you build insanely quiet recording studios. If you have road noise. Build steel corners with access covers for truck air bags. The corners support wooden beams for a floating room inside a staggered stud room. Ultimate quiet
@@stjohnssoup this dampens the harmonic response of the 2 different walls. pluck a guitar string.. the one next to it vibrates.. but the ones several away don't..
@@steven7169 yep... guy upstairs from my just got a new stereo system to play his video game sound track. i take my crutch and hold it again the middle of my ceiling. then hold my orbital sander against the end of the crutch. his whole floor starts vibrating.. within seconds he gets the message it's too late at night to do that.. mom managed many apartment buildings in Hollywood cal in the late 60s and early 70s.. Hippys would blast their stereo systems shaking the whole building.. mom would ask them to turn it down. .. your cutting down on our freedoms. mom then replied.. your freedoms end at the paint on the wall and your neighbors freedoms begin and the paint on their walls. they completely understood that and turned the stereo down.. a few went farther mom replied.. and invited the neighbors over to the party..
@lastofthe4horsemen279 with acoustic tile you could cut off someone's fingers in one room while the other room was filled with people processing visas.
Not just that the blocking halfway up is attached to both. We just did a major college conference office building and the commissioners office suite was sound proofed using furring Chanel and triple layer Sheetrock. (Basically the Sheetrock itself wasn’t attached to studs but rather to a channel that was attached to the studs opposite direction)
The only downside is the cost since youre adding twice the lumber since normal is every 16” but honestly i think that is ingenious great for laundry rooms
@@Lesmore187 Exactly. people kill me. you don't need to max your fucking sound system to watch a movie. My neightbor use to do this and it's the weirdest shit ever. literally be normal.
Same. Never seen it but I like it. Sound is tricky since many techniques yield inconsistent results (often due to poor install). But this seems straightforward. I wonder how effective it really is ultimately and if there are numbers on how much it dampens the soundwaves.
@@prrrrck i imagine like most of the techniques it works best in combination with others. And it will still fail if there's other big issues such as air gaps that go through
The double wall actually performs better than the stagger method. The stager method performs poorly at the bottom and top plate areas. Having two seperate walls with seperate plates helps reduce sound transmission.
Don't forget to fire putty on your outlet boxes mineralwool or 702 FG and don't forget sound will flank through the floor and ceiling right on over to the other room. This is a great method though when combined with ceiling and floor treatment. One of the best.
NOT TRUE> Staggered studs are still connected to the top and bottom plate. Those of us who have built several recording studios long ago abandoned this.
That's great if you're building a recording studio. But if you just don't want sex or a movie in one room to wake up the kids in another this is probably just fine.
@@andrewstem4979Ohyeah they should take home ownership away from people, Make us all live in apartment buildings downtown. Cause the world is running out of space for my house
In commercial carpentry when need lower noise, two sheets of 5/8" sheets and it works, go into any commercial building and you won't hear anything out side the stair well
That’s what I’ve heard is some of the best soundproofing is just doubling the sheet rock. I got imagine that cost more than staggering studs though I don’t really know though if you don’t have to tape and finish it, it’s probably pretty reasonable might have to set your electrical boxes off the studs a little further.
My UK home was built in the early 1700's. It's made from stone including the internal walls. External walls are 24 inch solid stone. Internal walls are 12 inch solid stone. Sound isn't a problem. Getting WiFi is. Doing any simple DIY is.
Not really! He drilled through every stud on 16" centers - exactly what he would do in a normal wall. The difference is that the extra studs on the soundproof get in the way when drilling the holes.
@@DistracticusPrime I'm assuming code dictates that it must pass through the stud. I don't remember from my few electrical courses years ago but, from my little experience, electricians will do as little work as code allows.
I'm sorry but this is misleading. Staggered-stud wall assemblies have an STC (Sound Transmission Class) rating of about 49, compared to STC 33 for standard wall assemblies. Both ratings are nominal figures based on best-case scenarios, which exist only in theory because they expect a fully-sealed room with no doors or windows or holes of any other kind. Every real-world room has holes (for outlets, switches, HVAC etc), a ceiling with only one layer of drywall, a gap under the door, etc. You're also dealing with structural transmission through the floor and wall plates, sympathetic resonances in the wall cavities, and so on. The bottom line is that every residential single-wall assembly transmits sound to some degree. Period. There is no reasonably-priced partition assembly that will completely block out a loud argument or screaming kids or wailing guitar amp in in the next room. I'm speaking as a lifelong acoustics nerd when I say that controlling sound transmission is not as simple as building a staggered stud wall. It can get very difficult and VERY expensive, very quickly.
To be clear, I'm not saying "don't build staggered-stud walls" but rather, "staggered-stud wall may not be as effective as you'd hoped". Sound energy has a way of getting in and out of a space. Always consult with an acoustician and don't trust the acoustical knowledge of any builder who speaks in hyperbolic terms.
Strapping? You mean the stud blocking? The blocks are not connected to the studs in the back. Notice they are attached vertically rather than laterally. They can't reach the other studs.
Gotta love commenters who are quick to speak putting others down without engaging their brain…Quick carpentry math (using 2x6 plates and offset 2x4 studs) tells you that the “blocking” that is flush to the stud facing the camera will maintain a 1/2” air space from the studs in the other room. My guess is that you are not a carpenter…
@@reelbigfisch592Of course he's not, but these walls are almost three times the cost per linear foot and most people can't afford this anyway. I'm a carpenter, and I won't build this for myself. These little videos are meant for the rich dummies laying around that want to keep up with the internet Jones's; building walls to block out their ruined families.
I'm glad that you pointed to this out because so many people think that they're building is crap because they can hear their next door neighbor so easily or the sound travels through the room like their paper thin no it's just like you said it's one single sheet dividing both rooms. Nice observation sir I appreciate you sharing that with us
In an commercial building, the boss wanted his office, which was next to shop, sound deadening wall. We installed sheetrock, cork, & sheetrock. Stragerling all overlapping joints. It was like a coffin in there when finished. 👍👍🙂😊🙂
They didn't fit poison during the build? It wasn't in the contract? You couldn't open a small hole and put poison/trap? You could cut a very neat rectangle hole just big enough to slide trap/poison and do extraction too. A simple door knob screwed into the cut panel piece would allow you to remove and put it back in place after cleanup, baiting etc. Fit a bolt, lock, hinge, if necessary due to kids, pets etc. Assess it. HTH.
In the UK these wouldn't be left hollow or open. They would be filled with rockwool (sheetrock, or whatever you want to call it), and there would not be any holes for mice except maybe around plumbing and electrical entries (and they would most likely be kept tight).
Funny suggestions but I only lived there when the building was already decades old. The walls had been "insulated" in the most half-ass way possible, with blown-in cellulose insulation that accumulated near the bottom foot or so. The mice found that to be an ideal material for tunneling & nest-building. Once I knew about them, I trapped a few, found their access to my side and blocked it with steel wool and drywall mud. I didn't poison because that could end up killing a cat or hawk. Later found out they'd been surviving off the neighbor's carelessly-stored dog food.
You will still hear things, but this will knock the sound down 20db or so, which is a lot. If you want to improve on this, go ahead and do a double 2x4 wall and nail a big sheet of Dynamat between the walls, then do the Rockwool in each wall cavity. Finish it off with a double layer of wall board and you will reduce the transmission by about 50db.
@Crusader1815 Hey this @Ryan M clown clearly doesn’t know anything about construction specialty, it’s because of cheap people like him that houses are poorly built 😂 what a jackass..
We are remodeling duplex apartments right now and the party wall detail is two separate walls spaced an inch and a half apart with R15 Rockwool insulation in both cavities and 5/8 Sheetrock both sides. That BETTER stop sound and fire!
Staple sheets of mass-loaded vinyl (MLV) horizontally across the studs before you put the drywall up. You can also cover electric outlet and switch boxes with putty pads. They kill any noise leaking through gaps and helps with fireproofing too.
They make a 1 1/2 "metal strips that are 10ft long you nail onto studs that isolate the dry wall from the wood. Their raised about 1/8 " and that is their purpose. I insulated my basement ceiling to eliminate sound coming upstairs. Home Depot sells them ,they're used for recording studio's.
This will help but will not sound proof. Energy transfer still happens in the wall because of bracing across studs. Also a better tip is to cut the slab a 1/4 in around the base of the wall. Bass from audio travels further because of its long waves. This is why you can only hear bass from cars when the doors are closed. Bass travels across slabs in the first 1/4 in. By cutting ot you isolate the room.
This is exactly how I built my home office, also rockwool insulation, double layer of subfloor, and 5/8" drywall on both sides. Keeping boxes offset by 2 bays on either side of the wall, and those clay pads on the back of boxes is helpful as well.
This goes for exterior walls too. Have a 2x8 plate and frame using 2x6 staggered at 16 or 24 inch on center. When you spray with insulation, the exterior studs are complete insulated and will help with heat loss.
Naw… just let the house breathe like they all did 50 plus years ago… ever see a home built before 1960 that has mold problems?? (Outside of a stank basement of course)…
And also resilient channel on one side with double layers of drywall per side makes a HUGE difference... Better sound insulation than staggered studs with only 1 layer per side...
I love the criticisms of the people not smart enough to do anything different than typical. They are always salty when they should just be embarrassed.
We’re open to change. I have 3-4 methods of doing this same wall detail, different build outs for the same end goal. Some act as a one hour fire stop, others just deaden sound. We’re not salty though, it’s just building!
@@MattBangsWood I am talking about your critics that have done nothing but the status quo for decades, which is most people. I have them in my industry as does everyone else. Build a better mousetrap, and some loser will always have to put in his two cents... and often it's some catch all where they've done zero analysis - it costs too much, takes to much time, is too complicated, blah, blah blah. A quiet home, especially bedrooms, is a must. I'm not a builder, but I did happened upon the staggered wall while DIY refreshing my house for sale. I was selling the house, but I wanted to leave quiet rooms for the buyers. The drywall was down. So, the opportunity was there.
Looks like the plate is on plywood subfloor so unless the floors are somehow built independently I don't think that would accomplish much as the plywood and floor joists would still offer a solid connection between rooms for some sound to travel thru
@@Raleford Yes - but if you’re going as far as staggered studs why not go 5% more- split the plates and dampen all the connections top and bottom. The how-to info is readily available.
@@mclovinfuddpucker I don’t know where you got your information, but my information comes from actually using, making, and testing, Mineral Rock Wool, in a laboratory; this is where I was able to see, the true acoustical values, where I tested thousands and thousands of different batches, over a 28 year timeframe. So, it’s not just a “marketing myth”, but a laboratory test fact, over years of testing, that has proven that, Mineral Rock Wool, works extremely, and incredibly well, for not only sound proofing, but fire resistant properties as well. So, you believe what you heard, I’ll believe the imperial numbers, that have been proven.
Convinced my last apartment just had sheets of cardboard for walls. When my neighbor's bass speaker was on, every wall in my unit vibrated. I tried sitting in the bathtub as far away from that neighbor's wall as possible but the resonance carried the sound everywhere in my unit, inescapable. Other neighbor on the other side blasted action movies at 1 AM with their TV directly against my bedroom wall. I moved my bed and asked them via management to move their TV, they did not. I could hear my neighbors typing on a mechanical keyboard until 4 in the morning, playing games I think. Fair to say I lost my mind a bit with the constant and inescapable noise. It was a "luxury" building and priced to match. Never living in an apartment again for as long as I can help it. (I don't blame my neighbors half so much as I blame the building owners, because we were all paying enough we shouldn't have to pretend to be mice in a library. But that wasn't reality and my neighbors were generally unreceptive to feedback or requests to keep reasonable hours, and that's where their fault lies.)
as an ex bass player, bass will pass through any house room , when played bass i had a small powered amp that you could hardly hear on stage because it was ported but people at the far end of the bar would have their glasses shaking from the bass
Finally a video with true information. This is the correct way to do it 👍 Still, you have to use a rubber layer between the floor and the structure, the ceiling and the structure and between the structure and the drywall to make it perfect 👌 if the materials can touch each other in a rigid way, they will transmit sound. If they don't touch or they touch through a less dense material, like rubber or cork, it won't.
You can have 10 returns or just 1. It DOES NOT mater for inspections! They are only required to handle the amount of air that the system requires. However, you will mix the air better and have a more stable temp throughout your house the more returns you have. But then it goes further (no inspector will check this), you need the correct static pressure with the correct CFM, meaning you have to actually design the ductwork and test it afterwards (99% of the time, no one will do this), to make sure that you have the correct amount of air flowing through the duct and the correct amount of pressure forcing the air into your ducts. Usually, you will trunk and branch the duct system (a main trunk from the plenum that seperates into smaller branches to the rooms), wich save a lot of time and material. So you would speak to the customer and let them know the advantages and disadvantages to do single runs or branched runs. Single run duct work will cost about 1.5 to 2 times the amount a branched duct system will. Sometimes, theres no possible way to make single runs, if there is no space to do so. Install 10 years, service 4 years, owner of a tiny company, previous manager for another company, and currently in R&D all for HVAC.
Many people would do 24” oc with that design. I’ve never seen it with 16” oc. This is also a great way to insulate an outer wall. It prevents thermal bridging through the studs, just like with sound. Important stuff for northern climates!
There is actually clips that you can put on the studs with stiff rubber boots and track that goes in the clips that you can then hang the drywall on the tracks that gives the greatest sound absorption but it is really expensive. Hung the drywall in a 5 story mansion once that had some rooms we had to hang that way or I would never have known.
@@sandroandoes4787That's old-school. Too dirty and heavy, and time consuming, too. Could cause a building collapse, during. Staggering studs is good, but if sound is the issue, then go 1 foot to centers, staggered, instead of 8" on center. Then use 5/8" sheetrock rock on both sides. But Injected Styrofoam Insulation works even better than dead air space does.
@@andrewroberts6123 it's not that we don't know drywall. I live in a house that was built around 1900 and was extended in 1960. Now I'm thinking about adding a penthouse on top with drywall.🤣
Those bricks are great for stopping airborne sound. They’re actually not good at all at stopping mechanically transferred noise. It depends on what you’re trying to do.
Unless you're involved in the construction, this wall configuration will not be installed. Most builders have their own building configurations that most likely won't include an 8" footing. It will take away 16" in the room dimensions if two walls in one room is configured.
This helps REDUCE sound transmission, but does not make the room "soundproof". For that, you need to build a "room inside of a room" and ensure that ALL room faces (walls, floor, ceiling) have significant isolation from the containing home.
Stuffing a wall cavity FULL of insulation will perform worse than a wall with half its thickness full of insulation. The air gap is a major factor when building a wall to a specific STC(Sound Tranmission Class) rating. Not saying the insulation wont help but less can be more when done properly.
It's a deep hole, my friend. The best bang for the buck is 2 sheets of 5/8 drywall with greenglue between. Maybe even add fiberglass bats. The staggered stud wall probably isn't worth the added cost. Nor are z clips and hat channel or mass loaded vinyl. 2 layers and green glue is the happiest medium.
This with some rock wool insulation and quiet rock drywall and you’re set. We built a couple sound studios in a house that had separate grounds for the electrical and their own duct runs for HVAC so there wasn’t interference from other rooms. Also had $15k sound proof doors and angled sound proof windows as well.
Thx for mentioning this, I was wondering about type of Drywall and insulation for soundproofing. Not sure I could afford $15K sound proof doors or where to buy those but I will make a note for when I build a studio. Angled sound proof windows sounds interesting. Makes me wonder to what degree are the angled? Some dude told me to make the walls at Fibonacci angles for perfect sound for music recording. But that's beyond my level haha.
If you add mass loaded rubber or vinyl between the studs, only attached to one side, the effectiveness goes up about 200 percent. Using separate sole and top boards helps as well. Add OSB to the quiet side, under the gyprock, for another 200 percent effectiveness. Then start on the ceiling... 15 years of shift work and three renovations, taught me what works to keep my bedroom quiet during the day, or the other bedrooms quiet, while I'm up all night on days off.
this is genius. I always insulate interior walls for sound reduction, but this stud staggering makes tons of sense. thanks. gonna use this technique next time. cheers Matt!! staggering studs is funnier. (edit) : )
I definitely will consider the following moving forward but a musician & drummer I know low frequencies will still transfer through the walls but his approach will definitely help reduce transmission. Thanks!!! 👍🏾👍🏾👍🏾
@@andrewc7927 oh I would agree. Commercially, it's always double wall, cork baffles. It doesn't make much sense in the residential world vs sqft., but I'm only addressing the concept. Staggered studs still using same plates defeats the purpose he's trying to produce.
Nitpicker here, it _reduces_ the sound transferred but does not prevent. And yes - it is more expensive. Also - if you want to further increase the sound insulation in the wall, you split the base board and the Cripple.
How is it even more expensive? Its the same amount of drywall? The only difference is the studs are uneven.. maybe a few extra bags of insulation to be safe so $80 bucks, that's not "much more expensive" when youre doing renovations..
Apartment builders are taking notice and promise to do the opposite of this.
One apartment i lived in I swear the ceiling was basically constructed like a giant drum that amplified the sound of the people above me.
My downstairs neighbour wakes me up with their snoring. They also take a tour of every squeaky hinge they have, at 6am. Fun times
@@ArnoldQMudskipper Im pretty sure they hear me fart like every 10 minutes, at this point they could gave the entire accoustical range for inserting into songs...
And yes when they had a child running around up there (assuming its their grandkid or babysitting for family for a day), it was like living inside a drum and true on every squeeky hinge. I forgot how much energy kids have constantly running around everywhere.
@@jakegarrett8109 ditto, on the farting 😂
I actually only ever saw this in multifamily housing 😅
Been insulating, drywalling and taping houses for 23 years and I always ask the homeowners if they want us to insulate certain rooms and they usually say no it should be fine. 6 months to a year later I'm back in these homes sound proofing those same rooms. What would have cost them $100-$200 in extra insulation ends up costing thousands in renos. Listen to the experts people.
Blame the people who call themselves "experts" and then do everything they can to sell customers every expensive upcharge they can. Now, the average person just instinctively says no every time anyone hits them with "Would you like me to also do X for you?"
We had the opposite. We asked for the extra during build and the builder said no, that we would have to do it as a renovation later because the houses were cookie cutter and pre-assembled with pre-planned material. Reddiculous. I get it, but reddiculous.
People are cheap because most people don't have money.
@@SpodySpazableJust so you know, it's spelled "ridiculous." And you'd be correct; that is ridiculous.
@@googlewolly not sure what happened there, brain fart or mini stroke lol. Appreciate it.
Then the HVAC guys come and run a single cold air return for both rooms
Happened to you too didn't it...
As is needed.
If that's what the drawplan calls for.
HVAC guy here, we install what the customer asks for, usually according to a plan.
@@SteveB-nx2uo If they’re both bedrooms then it is code to have a return air in both. Doesn’t matter what the customer wants if it won’t pass inspection. Also in HVAC.
This goes even CRAZIER doing recording studios. We had to build a separate raised concrete slab on the concrete flooring and framed a wall outside the raised slab and on the edge of the raised slab. Essentially, we framed a raised floored room within another room. We then used kinetic isolation brackets from one of the internal studs slightly offset from the studs for the outside wall. Double layer both sides with a plywood backing layer in between them on the inside with foam insulation finished surface on the inside starting at 6' up to the doubke-layered floating ceiling that literally didn't touch the walls with a half inch gap that got insulated before caulking with cp506. We were told we'd probably never do work like that again in our whole career because almost no one cares about noise isolation as intense as the client did for their 8 recording studios.
If I was doing my own home, that staggered stud framing in the video is what I'd be doing.
Exactly . What you did is sound PROOF . What the framers did is sound DEADENING. No disrespect to the guy but don’t tell me staggered 2x4’s and some dry wall I can’t hear a lady scream being murdered from the other side😂😂 but I bet I could in that studio!! 😂😂😂😂😂😂
Agreed! Disconnecting partitions from sound bridging materials (common studs) is only ONE part of achieving a high STC rating. At the end of the day, sound transmission is impeded by mass far more than any one assembly method taken in isolation. More mass equals more layers. I've done theaters where they've installed six layers of 5/8" drywall both sides to kill sound. When was the last time anyone ever heard a movie playing next door?
Glad someone else got to this before me. Got to help build a room within a room at the last studio I worked in. Great experience and learned a load about sound transmission and acoustics and sound treatment. Luckily the one I'm at now was already built!
Used to work for a recording studio in Nashville (The Tracking Room, apparently since closed down) that was literally a 10,000 sq ft building within another building. There was a 12" gap around the entire circumference, between the studio wall and the external wall, that you could squeeze your way around. 50' away from the highway and couldn't hear a damn thing inside
@@pseudonymnthere is a better way than just adding layers of drywall. 2 drywall layers with green glue in between would have probably done more than using 6 layers of drywall alone.
I've been building houses my entire life and I have never seen this. Makes 100% sense. I love learning new stuff after 45yrs in the business.
So dont hire you
@@alexvids9232 yeah, dont hire the guy who's willing to learn new things and acknowledge things he's done wrong. Solid
I just did my first apartment complex with this last year. It doesn’t seem much better than RC channel. But I also don’t live at the place so maybe it is better.
@@alexvids9232 you couldn't hire me. I don't work for idiots. One of the luxuries of having a huge client base. Again back to the been in business for many years. Nobody has seen everything. Building methods also change dramatically as you change States, geographic and weather conditions. Much less countries.
@@alexvids9232it's important to learn something new every day. You must be a know-it-all
Apartment builder: got it, don't stagger
Lol true
Apartments built today are generally double framed with air gap which is even better
@rtreyk you've never lived in a three story apartment building then 😂
@@PandaCheeks I build them. Most party walls are double framed with air gap and insulation. Some have sound board or Rc1. All ceilings are insulated 18 inch trusses with rc1 and gypcrete. That's been standard for only about 10 years
@@rtreyk oh yeah! Then explain to me why my upstair neighbors sound like they are doing an exorcism on a gd elephant at 2 in the morning? Explain that to me Bob the builder👷♂️ 🤣
Wish the bathroom I have bordering the kitchen was like this. Nothing worse than hearing giggles at the dinner table while I’m taking a dump
Uhmm I’d say what’s worse is hearing someone shitting while trying to eat.
@@LoveRemains yeah especially if the dumper has got a lot of violent wind lol
What even 😂😂
Oof and opening that door for a reentry to the dining room is a risky move.
@@LoveRemains 🤣
All toilets and bathrooms need to have this.
Except you can't plumb pipes in the walls the super hawg would rip half the boards
@kcpc55
Plumber here: i could easily weave pex water lines through that.
As for drain lines, I could usually keep things vertical instead of going horizontal. This will add cost and decrease ability for easy changes, but is possible.
I used this method in a house I built many years ago. I wanted to prevent sounds from adjacent bedrooms to be attenuated as much as possible. It worked. But a builder has also to consider sound going through the ceiling. Good insulation in the space spanning the rooms is a must.
If you'll forgive a bit of sport, to prevent sound from being attenuated, you'll be amplifying or at least maintaining the sound.
I’ve seen resilient drywall channels installed I think for sound? Have you heard anything about thay
Exactly!
Sound travels thru solid connections floor plate ceiling lumber....
This guy build a basement of questionable legality
insulated interior walls alone makes a huge difference
Right, which most builders don't.
not really
Sounds extra expensive
If isn't acoustical barrier, then doesn't make that much of the difference, but any think into that will cost you mostly twice and even more as regular insulation.
I don’t understand how that isn’t standard?!?!
If there's any form of construction which you believe stops sound from transferring between rooms then you've clearly not met my kids.
Tylenol PM?
Oh yeah, construction methods
My Grandma had a wooden spoon her carpenter husband built her (he probably didn't really)... we never even got hit with it and come to think of it never even SAW said spoon. Was I well-behaved at Grannies all those years for nothing?!?!? Nothing like a well placed implied threat!
If that's your theory... Then what about the drywall that's connected to the top and bottom parts of the wall?!
Just use some insulation inside of the wall.
@@OldsmobileCutlass1969Va in old rowhomes you could actually lift the floor joist and put rubber in between to try to isolate DROK the neighbors. But if you’re worried about noise don’t live in the city in a row home yoo
Nothing is gonna stop "Them"
Taking notes for the fuck dungeon
Taking notes for the regular dungeon
Lol
Find God bro, satan clearly rules your mind.
Bet you get a lot of takers, too! 🙄
Fuck dungeon
I soooo needed this! Now all I have to do is reframe my entire house.
If you ever a wall open, perhaps to replace siding or sheetrock, you could retrofit at that time.
@@DistracticusPrime ur right
😂😂😂
Expensive, but simply add a sheet of foam over the rock. Then frame a wall of 2x2's against that, and rock that wall. Use minimum nails thru the foam and rock to tie the two walls together.
Nah, just the fuck shack
We used that on a professional recording studio. Works like a charm with rock wool insulation.
Or foam on the walls like professional studio
@@umadbrayou seem special… you know he most likely did that too, Rock wool insulation is a sound dampening insulation used in walls. A professional studio would most likely do both, sound insulate the inside and outside of the wall. Just to clarify things for you… you tried to make his studio seem bad I think? but instead showed your ignorance.
@@fourtysix4646 boohoo?
How do you know he did? You said most likely, that means you don't know. Just ASSuming.
I am the special one? I know you are the retarded one.
That’s awesome! Did you decouple the ceiling and floors as well? What about the doors? Doors are usually the hardest spots.
@@jerrybanley7695 great questions Jerry, but a good start here for sure.
Our apartment complex was originally designed to be condos but the developers reconsidered the units to be apartments.
The GREAT thing about when it was built was that all the shared apartment walls were built with plywood on both sides of the walls.
This has been WONDERFUL as you NEVER hear your neighbors TV, music, etc.
Therefore NO noise complaints to the property management staff and no stress for the tenants.
Noise complaints are the top stressors for tenants and property management staff.
This should be incorporated into the apartment building codes.
Got it, literal paper instead of dry wall, got it!
@@JK360noscope Got it, you literally don't know what paper is, got it!
@@user-nh3gu1ge3d um... do you realize that was a joke? Because you look mighty foolish responding like that.
I guess it depends on how many layers of ply are used.
Condos and apartments are the same thing lmaoooo
I am going to have my house built in 2 years and love watching these because it gives you GREAT IDEAS what to tell your contractors ahead of time👍 thank you.
As long as you're willing to pay, anything realistic can be built.
If it were me, I wouldn't tell my contractor anything. I woukd ask questions such as, "what are your thoughts on staggering the studs to reduce the sound transfer?"
@@timothyball3144 excellent suggestion. Definitely ask before signing a contract. Once you select one. Don't play games. As a 52yr old carpenter that does residential remodeling for a living, I dont mind 20 questions, before a job is signed.
Except for that blocking midway up the wall that is very likely hitting the rear studs. Then the trades come in, and put a non-acoustically sealed outlet or low voltage plate in the wall. Then the HVAC guys install a shared air supply to both rooms, with a return air in the same vicinity. And the doors are not solid core.
Or just a vent that goes between rooms that is dead space
You can't teach stupid 😂
Could have written as ADDITIONAL TIPS, but a whole energy came out. I'm sorry for your pain, brother. Been there.
I'm a hvac guy and i can absolutely confirm. The only soundproofing we care about is not having to listen to the customer belly aching about how we compromised his soundproofed dry wall.
The block does not touch by 1/2 and inch. Calculate 2 inch dif on the 2X4 vs 2X6,, the 2X4 blocking is 1.5 inches 1/2 inch space.
Awesome 👍
We used the staggered stud technique on the outside walls on a house we built right next to the highway. It also allows for more continuous insulation.
How do you insulate it? Do you not need an airgap in the wall for insulation?
@@andrewrossnagel9433 we didn't insulate but they used blown in insulation
Plus soundboard on the "noisy" side. That's how I do it.
That’s what they mean by “double wall” copyyy
@@PedroKing99 if i was doing this in a studio i would do the staggered studs like this, fill with rockwool, double up sheetrock with acoustic sealant between the layers. should be as soundproof as you can make.
I do this too but I go 24” on center per side or 12” in center for both sides. This reduces the wood by 2 2”x4” per 4 feet of run. More insulation on a staggered wall reduces sound that much more. I also run my insulation laterally to gain better edge to edge contact. It definitely works and I am actually doing one this month.
If I'm not mistaken, that's called double envelope construction. I heard about this from a customer of mine some 40 years ago.
every apartment / condo complex being built: "yeah we're going to pretend we didn't see that."
Which is why concrete apartments are great.
Up next, how an apartment complex uses two by twos instead of two by fours so you can hear everything
Taut goat skin instead of sheet rock for better sound conductivity
Lmao 😂
2x2s and trailer paneling with 0 insulation.
That's a good start. I demo'ed the walls of music listening rooms in a library that was built in 1953. The walls had independent framing, sheathed in chipboard, 2 ply drywall, and none of the walls were parallel which prevented standing waves. You really need mass and separation to soundproof. Walls were finished with a heavy wall covering that had a coarse burlap base. When I got to the building in 1992 they no longer had listening equipment because everyone had a stereo in their dorm room, but I did use the rooms for recording music.
Yeah, heavy weight is a must to stop lower frequency sound going through
I designed a music studio once - we made sure it had all of this you just listed. I was going to comment on these elements of design but you covered it.
@@sardomarcrowe5723 Nothing like taking something apart to learn how it works 😃
I would've thought doing 8x2 at 24"oc wouldve been better so you can use more continuous foam board insulation.
@@emmanuelgutierrez8616 Its more about the transmission of vibration through solid objects. We did 2x4 sticks on interior walls that had 2" to 4" space between them on separate base boards, with "egg-crate" foam backing, with zero contact with opposite side of the wall, and the other side of the same wall wasn't parallel. Neither the recording room or the sound booth had a single 90° corner. We ended up hanging soft foam "egg crate" materials behind stretched fabric panels on the walls and soft foam ceiling sculptures too. Zero sound transmission. Connecting passage was an airlock with soft skinned insulated doors and the doors weren't parallel opposite.
The theory of non transference is kindda correct. You will still get transfer across the bottom and top plate as they are connected. Also you will transmission in the floor void. The system described here goes some way to mitigate some sound and n the higher frequency range, but more could be done with only a little more effort.
Oh man if I could go back and tell the guys who built my condo... I'd have them stuff the walls with as much sound insulating/absorbing material as necessary. Now if I want to do it it will be a very expensive project involving ripping all the drywall down and redoing it.
Yeah, it's not going to make a huge difference but it's better than nothing of course.
Came with a similar comment. A floating room within a room with extensive sound absorption and deadening technology is the only way to most efficiently reduce sound transmission. It will never be 100% silent. Not with wood construction anyway.
Plus isn't the drywall on one side like a giant diaphragm that will vibrate the drywall on the other side?😅
What more can be done for low effort? Always interested in best bang for the buck methods
This is a method but it takes more than just staggering the studs. Sound studios use double walls with 8" to 1' of air in between.
I did this in a drum room with scrap lumber, dumpster insulation and a layer of drywall. Only the dumpster snatched door is a little leaky but cheap insulation made a huge difference, silent outside the garage.
Very good tip thank you. Any pointers on how to secure handcuffs and chain to this wall? Asking for a friend
I would say you need a backer board, maybe a 2x6 or sheet of Baltic birch furniture ply to catch multiple studs. Screw it on with some long deck or construction screws, then bolt your hardware to the backer 👍
Nail it. Screw it. Right? I mean do you get it though? Hello? Don't leave me hangin..
From a friend: place one stud flat along the interior of the drywall with 90 degree angle irons holding it in place, 3/4” anchor bolt directly to (through) the drywall and stud and bolt an O ring down. Attach cuffs to O ring; if preferred, throw away the cuff key
😂
You need LOTS of studs
I was once commissioned to sound proof some rooms in a music college. We used 70 mm steel studs staggered with seperate top and bottom plates. We then wove 50 mm fibreglass blankets between the studs, added layer of 6 mm cement sheeting and 2 layers of fireproof gyprock either side of the wall. We could not hear the students playing their violins at all. Success!
THANK YOU. I was the helper 1 time helping my buddy try to soundproof his boy's room
Just framed and insulated
Normally used sound proof
Insulation. It did very little. Fantastic idea makes so much sense. Very rad detail....
What's up fam? Lol
I won't "um ackshually" you since this is not the best way, but it's definitely the most approachable way to reduce sound transmission. Works for conventional rooms, but if you have a theater or music room you still end up with the flanking paths that are the plates. Also important to properly seal electrical boxes and use heavier doors, depending on how sound-tight you need it to be. This is a relatively simple way that's also cost effective though, I've used it myself.
@@313chicken Soundproof Your Studio is a really helpful UA-cam channel that's probably the most reliable I've come across. Best book hands down is Rod Gervais' "Build It Like The Pros", it's the industry standard for studio builds. Soundproof Your Studio follows that methodology but also presents budget friendlier options. Always happy to answer questions from my own experience if you have any
@@RohannvanRensburg Thank you so much for the response, i will check both the channel and book out and let you know if i have any more questions
@@RohannvanRensburgRicky Gervais the comedian?
@@aaronfalzerano9432 Ah! *ROD* Gervais, my mistake 😂
@@aaronfalzerano9432yes, he was a carpenter, framer before comedy
How they do Townhouse partition walls in Canada. 2 separate 2x4” walls with air gap between and double insulated. Great as a shared chase wall also.
🎉party walls🎉
The drywall crew can work with this staggering of studs on interior walls( like with ease?)? Or does the staggering of the studs make drywalling insufferable?
Actually saw this in my blueprint class, don’t understand it until now. this looks sick!
Well, just don't build your dungeon next to a common room. Everyone knows they go in basements.
This is for the ADA compliant dungeons.
Most states don’t even build homes with basements.
@@alfonso704 homes with dungeons have basements.
@@cwilks5592 my dungeon has a basement
Naw the dungeon is going to be the entire top floor of my house
The thickness of the drywall on the 2 sides of the wall needs to be 1/3 different. The staggered studs and 1/3 different thickness drywall is how you build insanely quiet recording studios. If you have road noise. Build steel corners with access covers for truck air bags. The corners support wooden beams for a floating room inside a staggered stud room. Ultimate quiet
Why?
Because sound can travel through the floor too.
@@stjohnssoup this dampens the harmonic response of the 2 different walls. pluck a guitar string.. the one next to it vibrates.. but the ones several away don't..
@@steven7169 yep... guy upstairs from my just got a new stereo system to play his video game sound track. i take my crutch and hold it again the middle of my ceiling. then hold my orbital sander against the end of the crutch. his whole floor starts vibrating.. within seconds he gets the message it's too late at night to do that..
mom managed many apartment buildings in Hollywood cal in the late 60s and early 70s.. Hippys would blast their stereo systems shaking the whole building.. mom would ask them to turn it down. .. your cutting down on our freedoms. mom then replied.. your freedoms end at the paint on the wall and your neighbors freedoms begin and the paint on their walls. they completely understood that and turned the stereo down.. a few went farther mom replied.. and invited the neighbors over to the party..
I'd recommend acoustic tile in addition to this for very nicely muffled adjacent room screams.
Take my thumbs up thouvh l am concerned😂
@lastofthe4horsemen279 other guy could be a metal vocalist? Or just getting some on the regular. The world may never know
@lastofthe4horsemen279 with acoustic tile you could cut off someone's fingers in one room while the other room was filled with people processing visas.
@@BillyCarsley nice, you used this method in your rape dungeon?
@@BillyCarsley Sounds legit, so I'm gonna trust you on that.. thanks bro, gotta love cutting fingers ya know. C;
It's great but what about both sides of the framing being attached to the same plate on the bottom? Wouldn't that transfer vibration?
It does but much less.
Not just that the blocking halfway up is attached to both.
We just did a major college conference office building and the commissioners office suite was sound proofed using furring Chanel and triple layer Sheetrock. (Basically the Sheetrock itself wasn’t attached to studs but rather to a channel that was attached to the studs opposite direction)
It’s transferring everything and shows that the builder has not much of a clue what he is doing….
*Laughs in vintage guitar amp*
Just remember to double the lumber budget.
I doubt they're doubling rafters, joists, underlayment, decking or cornice - all of which usually fall under lumber.
@@WillBravoNotEvil so does my penis
@WillBravoNotEvil if you don't use the whole conservative estimated budget then what is the problem? It's a win win
You only need this in the Master Bedroom. 😊
The only downside is the cost since youre adding twice the lumber since normal is every 16” but honestly i think that is ingenious great for laundry rooms
Not if it's just between adjacent rooms or a room like a theater in your house you want to try to keep sound in/out
Nice observation 🤦🏼 That's the point use more lumber, stagger it, it's quiet
KD is cheap. You only do this on bathrooms or laundry. or on back to back bedrooms so not even every wall . Pennies
I was confused until I realized the floor plate is a 2X6! Awesome video, thanks for sharing.
He said the wall is 8" on center, so likely a 2x8
I love how they never do this in apartments, you know, so you can hear your neighbors tv.
it helps the people that can't afford to streaming or cable keep up with their favorite shows, they're just thinking of the little guy
their tv shouldn't be maxed out with sound bars 🤣
@@Lesmore187 Exactly. people kill me. you don't need to max your fucking sound system to watch a movie. My neightbor use to do this and it's the weirdest shit ever. literally be normal.
It also increases the cost.
I need to rip all my walls down. Lol
More like eat a jizz amirite😢😮😅😊
Never saw that before. Only the double wall method. Pretty cool technique.
The guy tryna find a stud for his surround sound speakers.
-_-_-_👷♂️🤦-_-_-_
Same. Never seen it but I like it. Sound is tricky since many techniques yield inconsistent results (often due to poor install). But this seems straightforward. I wonder how effective it really is ultimately and if there are numbers on how much it dampens the soundwaves.
@@prrrrck i imagine like most of the techniques it works best in combination with others. And it will still fail if there's other big issues such as air gaps that go through
It's very common and is called a demizing wall.
The double wall actually performs better than the stagger method. The stager method performs poorly at the bottom and top plate areas. Having two seperate walls with seperate plates helps reduce sound transmission.
Don't forget to fire putty on your outlet boxes mineralwool or 702 FG and don't forget sound will flank through the floor and ceiling right on over to the other room. This is a great method though when combined with ceiling and floor treatment. One of the best.
NOT TRUE> Staggered studs are still connected to the top and bottom plate. Those of us who have built several recording studios long ago abandoned this.
Yep,this slightly increases sound proofing. However, double or triple the plasterboard would be more efficient.
That's great if you're building a recording studio. But if you just don't want sex or a movie in one room to wake up the kids in another this is probably just fine.
Perfectly said.
The best way to soundproof a room is to not have anyone in the house other than yourself.
Works for me!
Congratulations, you answered one reason why housing is so expensive
@@andrewstem4979Ohyeah they should take home ownership away from people, Make us all live in apartment buildings downtown. Cause the world is running out of space for my house
Great idea, but those blocks mid way up if touching both walls will transfer the sound into the other room.
It’s a 2x6 plate = 5.5”
A 2x4 on edge is 3.5” on flat 1.5”
3.5” + 1.5” = 5”… so there’s a 0.5” gap
@HM Trimworks I got you, that's why I said if.
In commercial carpentry when need lower noise, two sheets of 5/8" sheets and it works, go into any commercial building and you won't hear anything out side the stair well
That’s what I’ve heard is some of the best soundproofing is just doubling the sheet rock. I got imagine that cost more than staggering studs though I don’t really know though if you don’t have to tape and finish it, it’s probably pretty reasonable might have to set your electrical boxes off the studs a little further.
@Nick Kettle this is actually very effective along with Rockwood, mass loaded vinyl, and 5/8 drywall and air seal the boxes it should be great.
My UK home was built in the early 1700's. It's made from stone including the internal walls.
External walls are 24 inch solid stone.
Internal walls are 12 inch solid stone.
Sound isn't a problem.
Getting WiFi is.
Doing any simple DIY is.
Looks like the electrician likes it too
Not really! He drilled through every stud on 16" centers - exactly what he would do in a normal wall. The difference is that the extra studs on the soundproof get in the way when drilling the holes.
I'm not an electrician. Why not simply run the wiring between studs? No hole drilling necessary.
@@DistracticusPrimealso wondering this
@@DistracticusPrime exactly, just need some staples. It would save so much time and money for the electrician
@@DistracticusPrime I'm assuming code dictates that it must pass through the stud. I don't remember from my few electrical courses years ago but, from my little experience, electricians will do as little work as code allows.
I'm sorry but this is misleading. Staggered-stud wall assemblies have an STC (Sound Transmission Class) rating of about 49, compared to STC 33 for standard wall assemblies.
Both ratings are nominal figures based on best-case scenarios, which exist only in theory because they expect a fully-sealed room with no doors or windows or holes of any other kind.
Every real-world room has holes (for outlets, switches, HVAC etc), a ceiling with only one layer of drywall, a gap under the door, etc. You're also dealing with structural transmission through the floor and wall plates, sympathetic resonances in the wall cavities, and so on.
The bottom line is that every residential single-wall assembly transmits sound to some degree. Period. There is no reasonably-priced partition assembly that will completely block out a loud argument or screaming kids or wailing guitar amp in in the next room.
I'm speaking as a lifelong acoustics nerd when I say that controlling sound transmission is not as simple as building a staggered stud wall. It can get very difficult and VERY expensive, very quickly.
To be clear, I'm not saying "don't build staggered-stud walls" but rather, "staggered-stud wall may not be as effective as you'd hoped". Sound energy has a way of getting in and out of a space. Always consult with an acoustician and don't trust the acoustical knowledge of any builder who speaks in hyperbolic terms.
Damn shame Masonry costs enough to be put out of mind.
Meanwhile the strapping is literally joining all studs together.
I wondered about that. It's it possible that it's just connecting the studs on a single side, and we can't see the far side b/c camera angle?
Strapping? You mean the stud blocking?
The blocks are not connected to the studs in the back. Notice they are attached vertically rather than laterally. They can't reach the other studs.
I was looking for someone to comment on that lol
Gotta love commenters who are quick to speak putting others down without engaging their brain…Quick carpentry math (using 2x6 plates and offset 2x4 studs) tells you that the “blocking” that is flush to the stud facing the camera will maintain a 1/2” air space from the studs in the other room. My guess is that you are not a carpenter…
@@reelbigfisch592Of course he's not, but these walls are almost three times the cost per linear foot and most people can't afford this anyway. I'm a carpenter, and I won't build this for myself. These little videos are meant for the rich dummies laying around that want to keep up with the internet Jones's; building walls to block out their ruined families.
I'm glad that you pointed to this out because so many people think that they're building is crap because they can hear their next door neighbor so easily or the sound travels through the room like their paper thin no it's just like you said it's one single sheet dividing both rooms. Nice observation sir I appreciate you sharing that with us
If it's one single sheet dividing the rooms, then the building is crap.
In an commercial building, the boss wanted his office, which was next to shop, sound deadening wall. We installed sheetrock, cork, & sheetrock. Stragerling all overlapping joints. It was like a coffin in there when finished. 👍👍🙂😊🙂
Try lead lined instead of cork... its amazing and the absolute best for home theaters
@@narmale In case Superman stops by to look around
In the UK there's a product called soft board. It's sheet rock sized but made of matted fibre.
@@dougaltolan3017 maybe similar to Rockwool panels
Lead rock is usually used in medical buildings for X-ray rooms and mri equipment etc
An old apartment of mine was built with offset studs like this and it was OK for sound but excellent for allowing mice free run inside the walls.
They didn't fit poison during the build? It wasn't in the contract? You couldn't open a small hole and put poison/trap?
You could cut a very neat rectangle hole just big enough to slide trap/poison and do extraction too. A simple door knob screwed into the cut panel piece would allow you to remove and put it back in place after cleanup, baiting etc. Fit a bolt, lock, hinge, if necessary due to kids, pets etc.
Assess it.
HTH.
In the UK these wouldn't be left hollow or open. They would be filled with rockwool (sheetrock, or whatever you want to call it), and there would not be any holes for mice except maybe around plumbing and electrical entries (and they would most likely be kept tight).
Funny suggestions but I only lived there when the building was already decades old. The walls had been "insulated" in the most half-ass way possible, with blown-in cellulose insulation that accumulated near the bottom foot or so. The mice found that to be an ideal material for tunneling & nest-building. Once I knew about them, I trapped a few, found their access to my side and blocked it with steel wool and drywall mud. I didn't poison because that could end up killing a cat or hawk. Later found out they'd been surviving off the neighbor's carelessly-stored dog food.
See.. now it sounds like a pain in the ass
@phillipbanes5484 how about an apartment complex built in 1902? Easy huh? GTFO
You will still hear things, but this will knock the sound down 20db or so, which is a lot. If you want to improve on this, go ahead and do a double 2x4 wall and nail a big sheet of Dynamat between the walls, then do the Rockwool in each wall cavity. Finish it off with a double layer of wall board and you will reduce the transmission by about 50db.
Yeah, literally just double the cost of building and you’re all set. This entire thread is filled with clowns 😂😂
@@ryanm7905 Yeah? Well if your wife's trying to sleep on the other side of the wall from your media room, it's worth it.
@Crusader1815 Hey this @Ryan M clown clearly doesn’t know anything about construction specialty, it’s because of cheap people like him that houses are poorly built 😂 what a jackass..
@@ryanm7905he’s not talking about building the whole house like that asshat, he’s talking about one wall between 2 rooms.
@@ryanm7905 not every room just a few rooms, it is worth it and much cheaper to do and pay for then after it is complete
I’ll keep this in mind for when I build my studio room. Thanks!
We are remodeling duplex apartments right now and the party wall detail is two separate walls spaced an inch and a half apart with R15 Rockwool insulation in both cavities and 5/8 Sheetrock both sides. That BETTER stop sound and fire!
My studfinder is going to hate this wall.
Staple sheets of mass-loaded vinyl (MLV) horizontally across the studs before you put the drywall up.
You can also cover electric outlet and switch boxes with putty pads. They kill any noise leaking through gaps and helps with fireproofing too.
100% agree. Installed some of these in a complex where an apartment unit is sharing a wall with a yoga studio. It makes a difference for sure!
They make a 1 1/2 "metal strips that are 10ft long you nail onto studs that isolate the dry wall from the wood. Their raised about 1/8 " and that is their purpose. I insulated my basement ceiling to eliminate sound coming upstairs. Home Depot sells them ,they're used for recording studio's.
What is this product called? My googling isn’t getting me good results
@@Travisrogers87 Sound Isolation Clips and the (Drywall Furring) Channels that go on them, possibly
@@Travisrogers87 resilient channel
@@Travisrogers87
Hat channel is what we called it in the field. Its cross section looks kinda like a hat.
@@Travisrogers87
I believe C channels
This will help but will not sound proof. Energy transfer still happens in the wall because of bracing across studs. Also a better tip is to cut the slab a 1/4 in around the base of the wall. Bass from audio travels further because of its long waves. This is why you can only hear bass from cars when the doors are closed. Bass travels across slabs in the first 1/4 in. By cutting ot you isolate the room.
This is exactly how I built my home office, also rockwool insulation, double layer of subfloor, and 5/8" drywall on both sides. Keeping boxes offset by 2 bays on either side of the wall, and those clay pads on the back of boxes is helpful as well.
Bro, this is going to save me time and money when I redo our downstairs.
Thanks!😊
This goes for exterior walls too. Have a 2x8 plate and frame using 2x6 staggered at 16 or 24 inch on center. When you spray with insulation, the exterior studs are complete insulated and will help with heat loss.
Wow! With brick veneer that makes for exterior walls over 1 foot thick! I built my home with 2 x 6 exterior framing and I love it.
@@CH67guy1 I love it. Love large window sills. It’s a very European thing. Stronger house. Better insulation too.
Applied for exterior wall construction, this would also seem to mitigate/eliminate thermal bridging issues...
Naw… just let the house breathe like they all did 50 plus years ago… ever see a home built before 1960 that has mold problems?? (Outside of a stank basement of course)…
@@cjsawinski Yeah i definitely have
And also resilient channel on one side with double layers of drywall per side makes a HUGE difference... Better sound insulation than staggered studs with only 1 layer per side...
True for only the sound waves that reflect off the wall. A portion of the sound waves will be absorbed by the wall; that is were the insulation helps.
I love the criticisms of the people not smart enough to do anything different than typical. They are always salty when they should just be embarrassed.
We’re open to change. I have 3-4 methods of doing this same wall detail, different build outs for the same end goal.
Some act as a one hour fire stop, others just deaden sound.
We’re not salty though, it’s just building!
You are definitely right about that. Some people just aren't smart enough to know they're idiots.
@@MattBangsWood I am talking about your critics that have done nothing but the status quo for decades, which is most people.
I have them in my industry as does everyone else. Build a better mousetrap, and some loser will always have to put in his two cents... and often it's some catch all where they've done zero analysis - it costs too much, takes to much time, is too complicated, blah, blah blah.
A quiet home, especially bedrooms, is a must. I'm not a builder, but I did happened upon the staggered wall while DIY refreshing my house for sale. I was selling the house, but I wanted to leave quiet rooms for the buyers. The drywall was down. So, the opportunity was there.
@@MattBangsWood do you happen to have a fire wall soundproofing vid?
If you don't also separate the bottom plates you're not getting anywhere near the full benefit of the staggered studs.
How can they be separated? Genuine question, just curious to understand how it works. I love the concept of staggering studs for sound reduction.
@@prrrrck you would just have 2 plates, i assume, instead of one larger one
I'm guessing this is intended to be a cost saving middle ground?
Looks like the plate is on plywood subfloor so unless the floors are somehow built independently I don't think that would accomplish much as the plywood and floor joists would still offer a solid connection between rooms for some sound to travel thru
@@Raleford Yes - but if you’re going as far as staggered studs why not go 5% more- split the plates and dampen all the connections top and bottom. The how-to info is readily available.
Rock wool works incredibly well for sound proofing.
Lick a jizz pal get f
@@mclovinfuddpucker have you tried fried jizz
@@mclovinfuddpuckerno it does. i work for a sound proofing company.
@@mclovinfuddpucker I don’t know where you got your information, but my information comes from actually using, making, and testing, Mineral Rock Wool, in a laboratory; this is where I was able to see, the true acoustical values, where I tested thousands and thousands of different batches, over a 28 year timeframe. So, it’s not just a “marketing myth”, but a laboratory test fact, over years of testing, that has proven that, Mineral Rock Wool, works extremely, and incredibly well, for not only sound proofing, but fire resistant properties as well. So, you believe what you heard, I’ll believe the imperial numbers, that have been proven.
Convinced my last apartment just had sheets of cardboard for walls. When my neighbor's bass speaker was on, every wall in my unit vibrated. I tried sitting in the bathtub as far away from that neighbor's wall as possible but the resonance carried the sound everywhere in my unit, inescapable. Other neighbor on the other side blasted action movies at 1 AM with their TV directly against my bedroom wall. I moved my bed and asked them via management to move their TV, they did not. I could hear my neighbors typing on a mechanical keyboard until 4 in the morning, playing games I think. Fair to say I lost my mind a bit with the constant and inescapable noise. It was a "luxury" building and priced to match. Never living in an apartment again for as long as I can help it.
(I don't blame my neighbors half so much as I blame the building owners, because we were all paying enough we shouldn't have to pretend to be mice in a library. But that wasn't reality and my neighbors were generally unreceptive to feedback or requests to keep reasonable hours, and that's where their fault lies.)
as an ex bass player, bass will pass through any house room , when played bass i had a small powered amp that you could hardly hear on stage because it was ported but people at the far end of the bar would have their glasses shaking from the bass
Very nice. I’m pretty sure my interior walls were all framed 10 feet on center because every painting in the house shakes when you shut a door
😂 one stud every 8ft sheet rock
😂😂
lol
Hotels should have that....
Apartments would never just to be sure people dont stay long so they can keep the rent hikes for every new
This is how they do it in townhouses here on the shared wall. Works better if you can disconnect the floors in some similar way though haha
Finally a video with true information. This is the correct way to do it 👍
Still, you have to use a rubber layer between the floor and the structure, the ceiling and the structure and between the structure and the drywall to make it perfect 👌
if the materials can touch each other in a rigid way, they will transmit sound. If they don't touch or they touch through a less dense material, like rubber or cork, it won't.
You can have 10 returns or just 1. It DOES NOT mater for inspections! They are only required to handle the amount of air that the system requires. However, you will mix the air better and have a more stable temp throughout your house the more returns you have. But then it goes further (no inspector will check this), you need the correct static pressure with the correct CFM, meaning you have to actually design the ductwork and test it afterwards (99% of the time, no one will do this), to make sure that you have the correct amount of air flowing through the duct and the correct amount of pressure forcing the air into your ducts.
Usually, you will trunk and branch the duct system (a main trunk from the plenum that seperates into smaller branches to the rooms), wich save a lot of time and material. So you would speak to the customer and let them know the advantages and disadvantages to do single runs or branched runs. Single run duct work will cost about 1.5 to 2 times the amount a branched duct system will.
Sometimes, theres no possible way to make single runs, if there is no space to do so.
Install 10 years, service 4 years, owner of a tiny company, previous manager for another company, and currently in R&D all for HVAC.
Many people would do 24” oc with that design. I’ve never seen it with 16” oc. This is also a great way to insulate an outer wall. It prevents thermal bridging through the studs, just like with sound. Important stuff for northern climates!
Great ! Kids keep asking me why mommy screams alot every morning at six.
Because daddy leaves for work at 5?
@@robsmith4884lmfao 😆😅✅💯
@@robsmith4884💀 😂
Because I get to your house around 5:30 am after you drove off to work..to get our money $$ for pizza
She using her pocket rocket at 6 daily? 😅
There is actually clips that you can put on the studs with stiff rubber boots and track that goes in the clips that you can then hang the drywall on the tracks that gives the greatest sound absorption but it is really expensive. Hung the drywall in a 5 story mansion once that had some rooms we had to hang that way or I would never have known.
Here in germany we use a 11cm (4") layer of sand-lime bricks.
Plus metal rod reinforced concrete pillars and floors in most home buildings. Big difference!
German design and engineering is the best.
@@sandroandoes4787That's old-school. Too dirty and heavy, and time consuming, too. Could cause a building collapse, during. Staggering studs is good, but if sound is the issue, then go 1 foot to centers, staggered, instead of 8" on center. Then use 5/8" sheetrock rock on both sides. But Injected Styrofoam Insulation works even better than dead air space does.
@@andrewroberts6123 it's not that we don't know drywall. I live in a house that was built around 1900 and was extended in 1960. Now I'm thinking about adding a penthouse on top with drywall.🤣
Those bricks are great for stopping airborne sound. They’re actually not good at all at stopping mechanically transferred noise. It depends on what you’re trying to do.
Thats good information. Thanks for explaining
Its also a type of fire wall . Its done in common walls between condos and apartments.
Nice!!
pretty sure for firewall it must have seperate plates
Unless you're involved in the construction, this wall configuration will not be installed. Most builders have their own building configurations that most likely won't include an 8" footing. It will take away 16" in the room dimensions if two walls in one room is configured.
This helps REDUCE sound transmission, but does not make the room "soundproof". For that, you need to build a "room inside of a room" and ensure that ALL room faces (walls, floor, ceiling) have significant isolation from the containing home.
Exactly.
Excellent! It doesn’t completely eliminate sound transmission, it greatly attenuates it.
You can also Rockwool insulate or spray foam room walls to keep sound down. I usually install bathrooms in between bedrooms to keep sounds down
This is pretty common practice in multi-family homes and duplexes
Stuffing a wall cavity FULL of insulation will perform worse than a wall with half its thickness full of insulation. The air gap is a major factor when building a wall to a specific STC(Sound Tranmission Class) rating. Not saying the insulation wont help but less can be more when done properly.
Common wall condos was the first place I saw this many years ago. Great idea.
That's a 1st for me. Pretty cool. I'd love to see a comparison with a decibel meter. I'm going down a rabbit hole now. 😅
It's a deep hole, my friend. The best bang for the buck is 2 sheets of 5/8 drywall with greenglue between. Maybe even add fiberglass bats. The staggered stud wall probably isn't worth the added cost. Nor are z clips and hat channel or mass loaded vinyl. 2 layers and green glue is the happiest medium.
This with some rock wool insulation and quiet rock drywall and you’re set. We built a couple sound studios in a house that had separate grounds for the electrical and their own duct runs for HVAC so there wasn’t interference from other rooms. Also had $15k sound proof doors and angled sound proof windows as well.
Thx for mentioning this, I was wondering about type of Drywall and insulation for soundproofing. Not sure I could afford $15K sound proof doors or where to buy those but I will make a note for when I build a studio. Angled sound proof windows sounds interesting. Makes me wonder to what degree are the angled? Some dude told me to make the walls at Fibonacci angles for perfect sound for music recording. But that's beyond my level haha.
If you add mass loaded rubber or vinyl between the studs, only attached to one side, the effectiveness goes up about 200 percent. Using separate sole and top boards helps as well. Add OSB to the quiet side, under the gyprock, for another 200 percent effectiveness. Then start on the ceiling...
15 years of shift work and three renovations, taught me what works to keep my bedroom quiet during the day, or the other bedrooms quiet, while I'm up all night on days off.
this is genius. I always insulate interior walls for sound reduction, but this stud staggering makes tons of sense. thanks. gonna use this technique next time. cheers Matt!! staggering studs is funnier. (edit) : )
Is the stud on the opposite side touching the fire blocking? Or no? Can’t see from video angle
No.
Ya, a dbl wall we used to call a Firewall...I like this guys method
I definitely will consider the following moving forward but a musician & drummer I know low frequencies will still transfer through the walls but his approach will definitely help reduce transmission. Thanks!!! 👍🏾👍🏾👍🏾
Put rockwool on between too!
@@garyrowe58 I know about Rockwool but thanks.
Just make sure you remove the air from between the drywall. It tends to transfer sound waves as well.
That's what the insulation he mentioned is for. It's not perfect but it will do a good job
I've been framing for 2 years now and this is new info but good to know for whenever I have the means to build my own home
Still utilizing the same top and bottom plates so the rock is connected and will still transfer.
Much less than standard construction. How thick do you want your interior walls to be?
@@andrewc7927 oh I would agree. Commercially, it's always double wall, cork baffles. It doesn't make much sense in the residential world vs sqft., but I'm only addressing the concept. Staggered studs still using same plates defeats the purpose he's trying to produce.
It minimizes sound, but doesn’t prevent. It’s also much more expensive, you sometimes get what you pay for.
Nitpicker here, it _reduces_ the sound transferred but does not prevent.
And yes - it is more expensive.
Also - if you want to further increase the sound insulation in the wall, you split the base board and the Cripple.
Maybe it wouldn't be too expensive if you just used that method for certain rooms, rather than entire house.
How is it even more expensive? Its the same amount of drywall? The only difference is the studs are uneven.. maybe a few extra bags of insulation to be safe so $80 bucks, that's not "much more expensive" when youre doing renovations..
@@erict455 you need twice the amount of studs.
@@erict455double the studs plus more expensive top and bottom boards. It all adds up when you do a bunch of walls this way.
Maybe if you seal the bottom plate you’ll have a chance, but if there are any air gaps, good luck!
Yeah sound proofing requires a lot of air sealing.
Thank you for this teaching. I learn something new today.