Відео

Thank

What would happen if head was backed out a little more, maybe 1/16” past the oring but not till separation of head and body. I did mine but just can’t get my pump to build pressure, I’m pretty sure pump is full of diesel and I only seem to be able to bleed injector number 3 the rest can’t get it to spray

Is safe just to unscrew in the middle of the pump with 26mm triangle socket to change o ring?

What happens when it comes to far out

Thanks man! With your help I changed my seal out in an hour.

Thank you so much !

My VE pump is on a 2003 Case IH JX95 tractor with an Iveco engine. I have this exact leak. Hopefully I can successfully follow your lead to replace it.

Is it necessary to remove the positioner (upper part of the pump) when replacing this seal?

What TDC is were the pump plunger is at its further out point ?????

Mine the fuel going back to the fuel tank want prime up to the pump

You fixed the value at 2.4 or 3.4 to adjust with the vcds

You fixed the value at 2.4 or 3.4 to adjust with the vcds

Great vid,where can I get the viton seal?

Would vcds lite work foe this application?? Thx

Thanks for this video series. Super helpful information, my pump started leaking at this exact head seal, and i wasn't sure if i needed to actually remove the pump or not. I appreciate it, 11 years later :)

Thanks for the info!

Marvelous video serie!!! I need an urgent repair. I have 100k goods in my LT35 and the pump is leaking and dieselconsumption is at least a gallon/ 10 mile. If I connect a VW 3303 tool and an indicator gauge to the injector-block and do not open the upper part of the dieselpump. Then seek the TDC and lock the crankshaft when the indicator gauge is showing minimum reading. That must be the same as feeling the nock-preassure with an open upper part of the dieselpump. During turning the crankshaft I notice the minimum and maximum on the indicator gauge. The differance of the minimum and maximum is the "nock-lift" When I loosen the injector-block I keep an eye on the indicator gauge and never go over 90% of the calculated "nock-lift". Then I should be sure that I alvays have 10% springpressure left that holds the shim in place. Another solution for the "duct-tape" protection is to have a PET-bottle with the buttom cut-off. PET-bottles shrink with heat so a "heatgun" should create a close fit with a funnel/cone. One PET-bottle band about 25mm (1") And a funnel/ cone of the upper part of the bottle for applying the oring . After applying the oring the Funnel/cone is removed and the O-ring is in the middle of the injectorblock PET-sliding protection. The O-ring can be slipped on the oiled PET with minimum extra stretch. The edge of the PET-bottle have 2 tabs 12mm (½") that is in 11 and 5 oclock that holds the oring from touching the theads on the bolts. By retaining the PET-sliding protection, while gently holding the oring in place at the othet bolt, the oring will glide in the grove and the bolt can be refitted. Then the next bolt. This is a picture och the pump: www.bildelsbasen.se/img/a/240/a/beca01/path/mnt/newftp/81/bil/lgnr/6583(1).jpg/vw_lt_2001_insprutningspump_diesel.jpg Give me your opinion if this can be a working process?

@7:40 I use a thin sharpie to make a mark, then used the knife to scribe inside that so I could see the scribe better.

I cannot believe how much cheap cameras have improved in 10 years. This was once thought of as helpful, but now is almost unwatchable!

I repare my car with the same problem thank you

3:05 I accidentally did exactly that, the bit slipped, I pulled it out and realized the mistake, I panicked for a second, but my T30 was not damaged. I was afraid I'd have to order a new one on Amazon since I couldn't drive anywhere with the car in pieces. My crap advice: be careful to use the correct socket, even for hand tightening.

3:45 I skipped this part entirely, and I've taken the pump apart multiple times trying to fix this leak. Either I got really lucky where the engine landed every time, or that's what's wrong with the car - I screwed something up by not having the engine at the right spot before opening; the springs never fell out of the assembly though. I think it just needs tuned with VCDS though for power, the leak is never going to be fixed, the car will be for emergencies only - fun when it doesn't reliably start.

2:41 For fun, I tried to see if it was possible to misalign that bit... I watched a video that talked about how "very important" it was and said he spent 30 minutes with flashlights trying to line it up. The first time I slid it on, it engaged perfect. I was like "no, too easy, it's not aligned". So I lifted it up, watching, it was aligned. So I started testing: Maybe the assembly was in a good position, but I found that it is *impossible* to get the QA to sit flush with the body if the peg did not get in the hole. If you got the screws in, you got the peg in. It is remarkably forgiving in it's self-aligning nature, and if the hole is too far off, it is never going to sit right, there is no way you could screw it together let alone try to start the car. Maybe I was lucky that the spring assembly was in the right position, the slider had less travel, but I tried to misalign it, and it was NOT possible - at all. Waiting on a cable for Vag-Com to tune my pump, the car BARELY runs and it still leaks - replaced the head o-ring twice with the DG kit and special 55mm bolt. So take my advice for what it's worth - dog crap on a stick.

2:06 I wasn't expecting that much and hadn't seen this video. The second time I took the pump apart, I thought ahead to suck the fuel out. I ended up sucking diesel into my vacuum pump. It was pretty much brand new, I was so sad. I ended up getting all the fuel out and the vacuum pump works fine, so perhaps the rubber inside was fresh enough it wasn't totally destroyed by the diesel. I also 'long-screwed' the top cover the first time I put it back together, using the longer, washered bolts on the top. It turns out, with the washer, the total penetration is about the same, so I don't think it did a lot of damage - was afraid I caused a hairline crack in the pump body. I recently replaced an oil pan and the manual warned that excess old gasket sealer on the bolt-threads can crack the engine block!

Tx great video

espectacular, yo tengo que hacer lo mismo

Hi. Is there possible to change this large round seal wthout remove top of the pump (Electronic Throttle Assembly)? Thx :)

Hi. Is there possible to change this large round seal wthout remove top of the pump (Electronic Throttle Assembly)? Thx :)

Focus!

I just ground the anti-tamper socket to fit a 7 mm

Trying to look for that socket to take that triangular bolt off what was the socket called again.

Thank you ever so much for posting this video. Very clear, precise, and informative. Well done!

Here's the steps in the order I did them: Cover things with rags Remove injector lines Disconnect big injection pump electrical plug Remove QA cover with 3 T30 torx and 1 special bolt Mark QA with score marks using utility knife Remove pump head bolts (black heads, 5mm allen) Remove wire off fuel shutoff solenoid (8mm) Remove quantity adjuster with T30 torx. These bolts are longer than the uppers Siphon out as much fuel as possible Load the pump springs by rotating the engine until the pump cam lobes are at TDC Part 2 has a good explanation of this Remove fuel shutoff solenoid using 24mm or 15/16ths socket Remove other bracket on pump head using 13mm and 5mm allen Move 1 bolt in pump head T30 Remove bottom T30 from pump head SLOWLY remove remaining 2 pump head bolts. Pressure from springs/cam will push head away from pump body Stop when you can see the full o-ring Use hooked pick to remove o ring. Check for seal remnants Duct tape around pump head, stretch seal around, into groove. Holding seal away with pick, remove one bolt at a time to allow seal to pass the bolt Verify that seal is fully seated all the way around Slowly alternate tightening pump head bolts. Once tight, rearrange bolts and reinstall bracket Reinstall shutoff solenoid Install new seal on lower QA body Align accelerator pin to hole in pump Install lower QA bolts, align with marks, snug bolts Install new seal in top cover, install and torque bolts Reinstall wire to shutoff solenoid Reinstall last head bolt and bracket/bolt Pull all rags Reconnect wire plug Reinstall fuel lines, 3&4 cylinders first Prime pump

Can you check the injection quantity using VCDS Lite? Or do you have to have the full registered version?

What kind of grease are you using for the seal?

It's really interesting, I'll try in my 1.9 TDI. Thanks for share, you really help to mechanic enthusiasts like me. I have a question, how you retain the pump in the correct position to change the seal? I watch the draft tool of the camshaft but dont know if serve only for move the engine or also to fix the rotation of the engine. Can help me? Thanks!!!

Question Guys. I replaced my main seal last night, I was leaking pretty bad. I used the vitron seal. Everything went as smoothly as to be expected,. Went very slow and carefully, no leaks! now During install I removed only the top portion of the rest of the pump in an attempt to get a better grip on the Solenoid. I replaced that seal while I was in there even though its was not leaking. Took me a little extra to prime the pump , but I got it running. Idles like a champ at 900. When I drive it though, it smogs pretty bad. I can feel some surging as well. When I eventually went into limp mode (Unrelated, its been doing that for awhile) the smoking/surging went away. If you don't replace the bottom seal, do you still need to vagcom the system to dial everything back in?

great video if anyone need a replacement head seal i sell upgraded viton seals in my shop i can post first class in the uk. www.ebay.co.uk/itm/232228949522

great video if anyone need a replacement head seal i sell upgraded viton seals in my shop i can post first class in the uk. www.ebay.co.uk/itm/232228949522

great video if anyone need a replacement head seal i sell upgraded viton seals in my shop i can post first class in the uk. www.ebay.co.uk/itm/232228949522

great video if anyone need a replacement head seal i sell upgraded viton seals in my shop i can post first class in the uk. www.ebay.co.uk/itm/232228949522

Awesome video.

Thanks for excellent coverage of this procedure. Appreciate your attention to the important details. Didn’t take long and working great w no leaks. I didn’t get much fuel coming out when I primed pump and injectors but started just fine. I did use green seal in kit, worked fine, Along with synthetic lube for seals. Also hammered socket on to security build and left it there. Had to tap quantity adjuster over quite a bit to get it get it down to 3ml setting using laptop. Would have bought special tool but no time to wait for it. Thanks again!

If you're not sure you have the quantity adjuster rod in the hole, give the lid a little shake after you have it in place. There's a little wiggle room between the QA rod and the hole and you'll hear a metallic "tic tic tic" sound as the control collar shakes around while being held in place by the rod.

Despite the lack of a proper torque wrench...well done and seemingly very thorough series. Kudos.

If anyone needs it I have a picture by picture write up of how to replace the 3 known issue seals on a standard Bosch VE Injector Pump for the TD27 Terrano with it still fitted to the vehicle

Thank you for taking you time and posting this very helpful video. I am so thankful for people like you. It is not easy to perform the work and record narrate at the same time. People have balls to complain about video quality.

Thank you!

What about people like me i have a laptop but how do i get that program

These videos are awesome by the way. I have a car again thanks to your guys! You rock!