Відео

Not going to attempt this myself, but out of the blue, my car, 10 Kia soul, just started dying. I did just fill up the day before it died. So at least you answered my question is the purge valve stuck open could cause the car to die. Thanks.

Did you weld the new radiator support back in

This video is the best one on UA-cam. Thanks so much. I ended up not having trouble with the electrical plug and didn’t have to pull engine mount to get it out, it just came right through in the right position

Super useful, I need to do the same thing on my RX 300 and you've been invaluable in my research.

Huge thank you for showing the extension setup that worked.

I guess the fuel filler hose doesn't get disconnected to lower tank

Show how to take belt tensioner off

I eliminated most all the vaccum lines on my plenum and deleted the egr system truck runs much better

What is that part number

How did you get that bolt in the back out? I can't seem to get my hand back there to break it loose, not sure if there's a trick or a piece that needs removing first? I"m struggling does anyone have insight? I've gotten a socket on it but that's as much as fits on my 93 F250

Terrible video!

Its weird that my check engine light doesn't come on but I have the issues that many others have along with the code showing up when reading.

dude if your gonna record yourself replacing car parts , get your self a tripod

good video i did replace the part and also got a new gas cap and my check engine came back on again

Thank you so much this walkthrough definitely was helpful.

Thank you!

I have one

How much it costs

It seems to me that you couldn't possibly feel warpage. What you likely felt was portions of the old gasket. Looks like you're physically rubbing on old gasket.

Worst video I've ever seen.

An amazing and informative video... not gonna lie though, makes me want to flip this escape like it was a flapjack!

Did you have to raise the motor a bit to get to some 10mm bolts

2 bolts and a clip and a ground and I can't get this bitch to move once so ever.

You didn't show how to disconnect the red plug from the resistor smh.

Just did the canister purge valve and could not have done it without this video INCLUDING the mount

Good explanation. Thanks.

I have this same car I removed 2 of the 10 mm nuts but I can’t see the 3rd one you say in this video ? I’m trying to remove my thermostat and I can’t open the housing

I like the smoke break😂 I’m from federal way. Didn’t know y’all local haha

I own a 91 Celica ST with the 1.6 this was extremely helpful

...thanks, this helped figuring out how this contraption is installed 😆✌🏼 That area of the engine is like a rats next made up of wires and tubes. I have a 2004 Rendezvous CX

I have a 1999 es300 same car just curious was the car not able to shift into overdrive with the old filter

Can anyone tell me the firing order for this motor ???? Thanks

Does anyone know the firing order for this motor ? So that I can connect the spark plug wires to the distributor would really help a lot thanks

My lower intake manifold will not come off… it is STUCK. All 12 bolts and 4 nuts are removed. It’s just not budging. I’m worried that the 4 studs going through it are corroded or something. Do you have any advice?

This man needs way more thumbs up for having 13k views...I e watched it 3 times to make sure I'm doin it right, helluva lot easier than dropping Motor mounts! Edit: should've finished upload😂😂😂

0:49 you forgot to add, "and ford is stupid for putting it there"!!😂

Thanks a lot for the video!

Watch my video... you had the alternator backwards. No need to loosen any mounts

Just a safety tip. Assuming your car is negative ground, which 99% if not 100% of cars made after 1960 are, you always want to disconnect the negative terminal first for any application. Doing positive first is very dangerous as the entire car is grounded to the negative terminal . If you disconnect positive first and you touch any metal on the car in the process you are essentially touching the + and - to each other aka a short circuit that can result in your battery blowing up. Also if that positive terminal slips while you're working on the car and touches metal, same thing.

Also this vehicle comes equipped with both a lower and an upper intake manifold. The dealer parts department would call this an "Intake Plenum Upper Manifold Assembly" or IPUMA..

The one nut on the intake manifold can be tightened by using an offset wrench. It's a 12 millimeter I believe.

Thank you guys for a great video of how to do the purge replacement. You gave instructions that were simple to follow and straight to the point. This is how all repair videos should be done.

I'm scheduled to get this issue repaired today on my 2010 Soul. I got a quote of $347 for the entire job which includes the diagnostic work. I was tempted to do it myself, but not so much after this video as well as the comments on doing it yourself. I think I will just pay the experts. Great video nonetheless, not an easy spot to record.

Tyrese forgot that shyt was in there.😁

I’m hoping you already bought some power tools.😂

Thank you, I was able to replace my alternator after watching this, but I did something different which to me was easier, and it wasn't until the second time through on a bigger screen that I caught it. Where you say you didn't want to remove the valve cover gasket, I totally agree, but once I looked closer, you were up against the intake manifold. If you remove the intake manifold, the alternator fits right through. It's just a matter of 8 8mm bolts, unplugging a handful of things, a few vacuum line hoses, the big hose clamp for the air intake, three more 8mm screws for the guides for the throttle and cruise control cables attach. Pulling it off the EGR is a little wonky, you need to pull the whole towards the left front of the car, but aside from that, very straight forward. I appreciate the video, thank you!

man i can't get my wiper regulator out for the life of me, it's interfering on the passenger side with a vacuum hose and on the driver side with the strut mount...hump...thingy... do i need to pull the throttle body to get that extra room? everything's packed so tight on the driver side i'm tempted to just start removing things for wiggle room. for one thing that stupid harness bracket above the rack mount bolts, it took me entirely too long to finagle a socket with swivel onto that one. great video though, it's much more helpful than the Chiltons manual i've got. thanks man! PS idk if adjusting your tie rods was a good idea, i always just jacked up the front wheels so i could move them where i needed them. did you have to have it realigned afterwards? i've never had the rack out before, but i have had to replace the bolts in the inner tie rods multiple times. idk if the rack was worn out or that tabbed bracket just sucks but i kept having one or both tie rods suddenly let go while i was driving. the last time that happened though, it somehow shattered the internals of the rack, so here i am.

With the filter give her a little of the old twisty while you pushy she’ll hold snug before bolting it down

Thanks for the video really helped have same issue

have the bolt size for the thermostat housing?