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Hi there Helpful Home Inspector, After watching this video it sounds like it could be hard finding a fully trustworthy surge protector in a power strip anyway and also not sure what Companies out there are the most liable and of the highest quality when it comes to a high quality trustworthy surge protector that can give the ease of mind or a peace of mind of protection for all expensive equipments and electronics and appliances that are all plugged into a surge protector power strip. Perhaps a surge protector installed outlet installed that connect to all the other wall outlets in a room or space might have better trustworthy surge protection? I think most surge protectors even for power strips that are up to 4,000 Joules of protection are the best to go as that is plenty of protection level. What about how i setup my electrical supply for my bedroom for example, I first made a junction boxed extension cord outlet using a air conditioner cord so its plenty thick enough to handle heavy loads of power and then i installed in the junction box a GFCI/AFCI outlet and then plugged that in first and then i plugged in my big power strip that has 4,000 loules of surge protection into the GFCI/AFCI outlet so you get a all in one of protection for all the above GFCI,AFCI and then 4,000 Joules of Surge protection. My thought process was if ever any changes or spikes or changes in current or any surges then it is more likely that the GFCI?AFCI outlet would trip and shut down the power first and then the surge protector power strip that is plugged into the GFCI/AFCI outlet would cut the power to everything so that would shut down first and then it if somehow went past that then the surge protector power strip would trip however its more likely that the GFCI/AFCI outlet would be the first in line to trip and cut off power. Either way that gives a extra step of extra protection don't you think so to? Anyway that is how i did mine. That is what i have told and encouraged some other neighbors of mine to do that were concerned about trusting there power strip surge protector on its own and then told them to plug in there surge protector power strip into a GFCI/AFCI outlet built into the wall and then plug in there Surge protector power strip into the GFCI?AFCI outlet and then have everything they want to protector all plugged into the surge protection power strip and that will help havea extra level of protection. The other thing that is then great as well is you then also get protection added to your surge protector power strip as everything plugged into the surge protector power strip then also has GFCI/AFCI protection as well. Thats a big bonus, Everything then gets GFCI/AFCI & Surge protection!!! Sounds like a winner to me!

Gotta friend who had a home inspection and the sump pump was listed but zero specifics given on what’s wrong with it that needs to be repaired! That’s an incomplete inspection report right?

Did you test for lead to confirm? I would for best practice

Yes, very likely

As long as nobody walks on it I'd leave it

That’s fascinating, and super helpful to have a visual of what to look out for. Would this mean they have lead coming all the way from the meter?

NEC requires whole house SP on new construction from what i read.

That's cool just make sure you broom afterwards

Why would you cut or taper those joists that are cantilevered out? That would make me nervous.

Run your PC off an unplugged UPS.

Beep!

Stylish indeed!

I noticed the outlet buried behind the wobbly cabinet. Wow, what a fun kitchen!

I was going to comment tat your voice is too quiet versus the radio and road sounds, but then I see that your co-driver is napping. So, thumbs-up for not waking them!

Patrick! Where's SpongeBob?

Wow!

I’ve seen metal shim crack CMU blocks on peers. At least have the shim cover the surface area of the top block to spread the load.

This video isn’t how they work. It’s when they work

Do the DUNKS have any detrimental effects on wildlife which may frequent ponds or "waterholes "? I have a plastic in-ground pond which squirrels, racoons, possums and birds tend to visit for water during day and night.

The honest truth, how refreshing, Thanks guys

The rod doesnt hold the weight . The slats go into a routed part of the 1x4 where they go into, that holds a lot of the wright and the rods help keep the slat from bending and keeps the structural integrity of the ladder. I have that same ladder in my garage 16 years and only issue is you have to maintain it by lubing hinges and tightening down hardware.

Thank you

Don't like metal against masonry. Causes cracks. I like wood, it's softer for even loading over time. I would use a ground contact pressure treated 4x4 shim tho.

If I use those adjustable permanent type jacks, would there still be a need to shim?

Great show. You really explained the difference between afci and gfci. Thank you

That is awesome!

How could u test a surg protector? I've opened one up not much inside.

Yes but drain tile is the best way to make sure the water is going to get to your sump crock/pump if the soil around your foundation gets saturated. The best way for drain tile to function is to have drain tile on the outside when the construction of the foundation occurs, but also on the inside in case the exterior drain tile fails for whatever reason. Lots of times we find just a crock & pump with no drain tile in very old houses just to manage ground water. Those houses also sometimes have dirt floors in the basement. Thanks for tuning in and being a part of our community. - Matt

Can i install a sump pump without doing drain tile?

I'll try and timestamp just some of the falseholds and incorrect information here... 1:44 - we can sell them because arc-faults burn down houses not just because it's in a book 3:00 - arc faults can occur on the "hot" or "neutral" side of a circuit. An AFCI needs to measure the differences and changes between in both sides of the circuit. It doesn't only protect the "neutral wire" 3:23 - this could have occurred if the screw went into a "hot" wire. A traditional surge breaker will no trip as there isn't an overload in current, only an arc being created. 3:50 - the odds of any electrical wire burning a house down are reasonable enough for us to have codes 4:08 - again, any current carrying conductor 5:05 - "need a new breaker" - ergh not if you've damaged a wire 5:18 - "you don't have to have these things" - by code since 2002, there are requirements for new builds and remodels 5:25 - if you screw into a hot wire, that doesn't automatically create an overcurrent situation that a regular breaker will trip on. Normally you'd have to short for that to happen (which does require a neutral or ground) 5:35 - arc faults protect the entire circuit 7:36 - that's a dual function breaker which also provide ground-fault protection

Very good info

Making learning seem effortless

Great video. Many closet lights now come with motion sensors built in.

Good tip! What would you recommend I replace my wood siding with? I live on the ocean

Just FYI I believe the metal shims need to be at least tack welded together so that during expansion and contraction and possible wind loading movement they do not displace. I know this is a requirement for shims at metal beams and they also need to be welded to the beam to prevent displacement, a condition that is not possible with a wood beam. So not as simple as just stacking metal shims, especially with that size void. I would recommend following the engineer's recommendation.

It is normal to put wood under the carrying beam. The whole house is made of wood, now all the sudden wood isn't strong enough to hold up wood

It's not a wand, it's a lance. Wands are for casting magic spells ! :p

I once fell through our attic ladder and an exposed nail gashed my leg. Im surprised my mother hasnt replaced it since that happened but im glad I found out metal ladders exist.

Those breakers clip on or bolt on points are bad. or the bus is morphed. Please replace that

I don’t think this is true. Passive systems do not remove as much radon as active systems. That is true. But - to say they do not work is not correct. Furthermore, “all you have to do is install that $200 fan” is also not true: active systems need to be pressurized and sealed and passive systems may be. Several passive systems come off the sump pum, and often do not have a clear window and sealed system (although some of the slab ones will). I get what you’re trying to say here (that it’s way better to install an active system, and the setup for a new construction passive converting to active is WAY easier than installing net new) - but your video is misleading, just installing a fan may not correct the problem - and not having the fan does not mean you have a problem. Get an air test and then develop a game plane from there.

Having a load bearing beam floating on metal shims probably not a best practice when considering seismic activity. Any lateral movement or sway could cause one of the shims to slide or be squirted/pressed out of position. That would probably go unnoticed and then the beam would not be supported vertically on that end. Whatever that spacer material is going to be should be mechanically fastened. Disclaimer, I have no idea what I’m saying.

So code is the least acceptable level of quality. My house was built to code in 1962. Acceptable roof sheathing was apparently 3/8 inch ply. Today, every step I take on that portion of the roof feels like a sponge and I might go through. A section which was repaired more recently feels solid with 5/8 ply, current code. To re-sheath with 3/4 inch ply, for my peace of mind is about 10% more. I will take peace of mind for 10% any day.

God u talk like my ex soo annoying 🤮🤮

you need to slow down when you talk. We from the south don't listen that fast.

I touched the same exact siding when I exited a martial arts store.

answer to the question of the day was insulation in the attic. (my dad did not help) -lily

I just had my Lenox pulse replaced last month. Original from 1995 build. It was loud.

Wood is likely the better way to go. Looks like it might be next to a cold exterior wall with a real possibility of condensation forming on the steel plate (good conductor of cold outside temperature) and associated rust problems. Your concern would be better directed to size of the wood support shim. The bearing stress on bottom of the beam above (compression area provided by the shim) will very likely control the strength of this system and associated settling of the beam and house. As the beam end is loaded it begins to crush in compression at the bearing points and the whole house will settle as the beam does. Take a look at some heavily loaded beam and take a few measurements, might be surprised. Retired Structural Engineer

I would use a stack of business cards

Jeeze Louise...My house has SO MANY ISSUES...😂😂😂 I don't care though...20 years and it won't matter...😂