Відео

I'm happy to give you the files for free if you'd like.

Just normal orings. The mixed silicone is never in contact with any of the orings, only one part. So it never hardens

Hello! Thanks for the feedback. This silicone is a 2 part (equal part A/B) "addition cure" silicone. Essentially it chemically cures like an epoxy at room temperature. The company in this instance is called dalchem and I think this silicone was their P20 (the number being hardness value) but I can't see that on their website any more, P35 would be the closest. dalchem.com.au/dalchem-p35.html If you're in Aus that's your best bet. If your in the US then look for smooth-on products. Good luck

Thanks mate. You're 100% correct. If I make another one with this method I'll change my technique. I should also be using thinner templates so there is less chance of catching etx

Thanks mate! Appreciate the feedback

This set up mixes the silicone without any air entrapment, in this way (and using a proper feed in the mould, feeding down through the centre and then filling from the bottom) air bubbles will be avoided

Thank you

Thanks mate! It's been a while since posting my last video (life got in the way and all that jazz). Hopefully I'll have some new ones up soon

You are right. I was honestly just trying to learn how to spray it and figured I'd record it at the same time.

For me its the opposite, I want to epoxy against a very flat surface with high accuracy.

For the tool/mould? Most manufacturers will tell you how much surface area their product will cover per litre (and you should know the area of your part from measuring). Likewise, I knew how thick I wanted to make the mould, so I was able to calculate the layers needed and then multiply that by the area to work out the glass needed (plus some extra)

Sure do. The foam was perforated using the perf tool I made previously. It works well. I think the surface imperfections were as a result of the super 77 being used to hold down the carbon and no clear coat

Just used ABS filament. It is soluble in acetone

Sorry for the really late reply. I'm using dalchem silicone from Aus. However I have used smooth on before too. The trick with this method is to have a low viscosity silicon (which usually correlates to the final shore hardness, the fact I want soft parts is beneficial here)

Why are we sad Jesse?

chapmaneng.com/shop/composite-tools/ this is the link to the Infusion connector, it's the thing I'm making in the video with the injection mould. I've stopped selling them as I've moved overseas recently (twice) and I don't have the stability to keep producing them. If you have any questions on other parts of the build I'm happy to help out.

These are the syringes I used: a.aliexpress.com/_mOaeGyc And these are the mixing cartridges: a.aliexpress.com/_mLMiycG The rest is just some screws, a dewalt clamp and some vinyl hose

It would work. I did it using a smaller scale a few years back.

@@CEWManufacturing thanks, glad to hear that!

@@CEWManufacturing oh btw, your amazon link expired. what is it that we need to buy? the tubes and everything?

I'd prefer not to, I sell these parts. Sorry. However, I generally go for a 0.2mm clearance. Flat surfaces have an o ring groove in them with a custom o ring, or a cone shape that it mates against to locate the part and seal it.

​@@CEWManufacturing what do you make the orings out of? Wouldn't silicone stick to them?

I don't think it would. It works on tapered threads as it pulls up the gap, but on a parallel thread I didn't think thread tape worked...

How's that following going for you? Not been much progress 😂 sorry

@@CEWManufacturing not gonna lie. It’s a tough gig. Just no dedication these days! 😀

It sure is. I suspect the cheap punches didn't help the situation, but they were what I had on hand.

Hey mate, this is the one I bought: 130ST-M07725 a.aliexpress.com/_mKDzmFN

Thanks mate! I'm going to try and update every two weeks... Let's see how it goes

Me too mate, me too... That part is still the least certain part of the build. I think I've found a mob who can supply me with a grout (UHPC) that meets all of my needs, I'm just waiting on final confirmation from them. I'll have a video about it up eventually, so stay tuned.

It sure did. Especially when I had to rework the legs. The legs you saw me weld on were 100mm too short, so I had to go and buy new ones and then I re purposed then as those additional braces at the top (they weren't in the CAD render). The bad(?) news is, the cost of the stand pales in comparison to the rest of it....

*Ceconite Fabric

You could. I can't comment on the airworthiness implications though. But it would be physically possible....

That's one aspect, the other part is so that the resin can reach the bottom side and infuse that too.

@@CEWManufacturing thank you for the top tip

G'day! You and me both. I hope it lives up to my expectations

Not a bad idea!

Cheers mate!

If you had have messaged me before you bought it I would have offered to sell you kine for cheap as I've just picked up a MIG/tig combo.

Mate, that's a decent idea. I'll see what I can do

Yep, wasting so much energy, still refining it...

Hey, thanks for the tip, I had considered that, but I figure is going to be much more fiddly to make one or two that way rather than just sand and recoat the outside. Would you agree or am I chasing false efficiency?

@@CEWManufacturing If your only going to be making a few of these I would try the shrink tape first. But if your going to making more then a couple I would make a female and press it.

You're 100% on the money. I was only looking at making 2 or 3 so I'll stick with the shrink tape. I should probably knock out a female mould just for fun at some stage though...

We're well past the build video stage now, I started building this thing before I was making UA-cam videos and my first videos were all composites based. What kind of parts list are you thinking about? I'm more than happy to do that. Also, it's not a lathe, but the build of my mill (gantry, huge) is about to start. I'll put up videos of that.

@@CEWManufacturing Hi, first off would be the servo you chose for the spindle (and why) that and generally things like rails, ballscrews, if you can remember. What's your CNC control system? I do like what Masso offer but I'm stuck in the UK. I've been looking more into granite or epoxy granite for bed (I've been drooling over Piotr Fox Wysocki's builds)

Speaking of Fox, I too am a fan of his build and took some advice off him regarding the tool holders and the spindle. I went for the 4.2kw version instead of the 2.5 he was using. I cannot wait to get it going. The servo is a 2kw, 2500 rpm servo from AliExpress. The rails are hgr15, though I'd go for 20 or 25 if doing it again for extra ridgity. Likewise the ball screws are 1605 (z axis) and 1604 (x axis) if I was doing it again I'd get double ball nut to remove the small amount of backlash and ad some preload.

The cnc control system is a pokeys57cnc with Mach 4. I like it but I'm running ethercat through Linux cnc for my next build (well that's the plan). As for the epoxy granite, I don't think it is worth it. For a bench top lathe. I'd contact your local fab shops and find a bit of thick wall 150-200mm SHS and use tha as the chassis. It's pretty easy, rigid, and is going to be less work. You could make an EG headstock, I think there is value in that, and if you had it at 45 degrees to the vertical you could use backside tooling and have a really good chip evacuation path...

Thanks for taking the time to comment. You can still get good fiber orientation control with an open, wet, hand layup (routan aircraft are testaments to that), however you won't get the same level of precision as you would with prepreg (and cnc tape placement etc). Specifically on the points you raised about the spar: it was well over engineered, this was done because I was exploring the construction method and was only intending to make a smaller section, but somebody wanted it knowing the limitations of what I was doing so this is how it ended up. The spar c channel was a quasi isotropic layup with a higher weighting towards the 45degree fabric I was using. If I was doing it again I would probably lower the number of layers in the vertical surface (maybe take it to 2x biaxial and 1x twill) and then use a unidirectional tape on the spar caps. I wasn't trying to make the most materially efficient wing here, but rather go through the process from start to finish. When I make another I will refine it and it will be better than this one.

Haha, there are always some...

All of the materials (including those to make the mould) were around 800-1000 Australian dollars