Відео

Yes, I agree the 029 and 3047 are closer in specifications/design/used price. I didn't have one to compare. When I got my heads the price difference between the 3047 and 229 weren't that far off.

I wonder if you Olympus has a built in flash and that is triggering the sync on the Photogenic

Thanks for sharing your experience, I've heard good things about Cardellini! Modern has a 30% off sale now. It ends January 5

Have you considered an optical slave on the second pack? As long as the second pack can see the strobe flash it will fire indoors. If you are outdoors, then consider one of the higher end wein slaves. Otherwise, you could experiment with making the wiring to fire two packs. If you Speedotron packs take household plugs, those can be hard to find with two straight blades that are the same narrow width. This is a new Wein slave - you can find them online, say ebay for less. www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/63339-REG/Wein_W930020_Ultra_Slave_Household_600.html

I think there are multiple opinions on this, but you may want to review some UA-cam videos to see the different approaches. I tend to put the meter close to the subject and pointed to the key light.

Glad to help out. The old stuff still has life.

I am not sure what you mean by remote. Are you referring to the Transmitter switch set to "Both"? Are you referring to using the triggers to remotely fire a camera vs strobe? If that is the case, then this link to the manual should help. There is a section for camera remote control. wp2.pocketwizard.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/03/424424Manual.pdf I would think you would connect the Receiver to the Camera and the ports on the Receiver are "Camera/Flash" and the second port is "Flash". I say this because the manual link above covers a PocketWizard Plus II Transceiver - which has the same ports as the Receiver "Camera/Flash" and the second port is "Flash".

Two cameras firing at the same time

@@firstklassflysports3732 I would review the link I sent you. I have not tried to fire a camera with a trigger, however, I think the manual will point you in the correct direction. I also believe the ports are the same (the 3.5mm jacks) on the PlusII (which is the manual linked) and the Receiver.

Yes I am still posting and happy to help

⁠thank you I will ask some questions soon I want to learn more about these I just never thought they could still be workable @@UsedProfessionalStrobes

Any of the packs/heads and triggers mentioned on this channel will work - provided they are in working order. The advantage is cost, the disadvantage is no automation. Of the ones that I have used, Profoto, Speedotron and Bowens are the most robust in that order. Bowens are probably the least expensive and easiest to find modifiers for. The Bowens S Mount is very popular now, so lots of modifiers offered new. Godox (and the many variations of Godox) strobes resurrected that mount.

@@UsedProfessionalStrobes What do you mean by automation - forgive my ignorance. I do want to look into this as I am a Profoto lights user and I do like this light a lot and I see that one of the photographers I follow on Patreon uses this light or this kind of light with his Westcott Zeppelin Modifier - So I am intrigued. It's possible he likes it as the light is on the outside of the unit and is lightweight. I have to ask him... Otherwise I will consider getting one of the FJ Westcott or Godox strobes and forget about this - however - there are positives to both.

This is a rather long reply - it's sets the context for why I use this old stuff, and there is no doubt the old gear has less features than FJ or Godox. With older packs, you have to set everything manually from the pack, there are also a lot of cords. With FJ Westcott or Godox, the transceiver (transmitter in hot shoe of your camera) will allow you to control the strobe functions without walking to a pack. You will also probably get high speed sync, portability with a battery and even something as basic as TTL. On the older profoto packs those aren't available. I view the convivence of setting functions from the transmitter and ttl as forms of automation - the flash does the work vs the photographer having to walk back and forth to a pack and make sense out of power setting adjustments. I guess the last point is you will get 1/10 stop control from the Godox/FJ new flash. On the older profoto packs it is 1/3 stop of control. I shoot for fun, it's a hobby, so I appreciate the cost savings of the older gear and I enjoy the build quality, especially on Profoto. I also don't have to speed through a photo shoot - so don't miss the automation. I tend to shoot in a studio, so don't miss a battery operated strobe. The Profoto gear I use is 20 years old, their 10 or 5 year old equipment will have more features/automation, but I am guessing it will be rather expensive used. Even with the older pack's simplicity and fewer features, these packs have a certain charm and reliability that modern ones might lack. Plus, there's something quite satisfying about manually setting everything and having that hands-on control. It can make the entire process feel more intentional and personal. I think if you shoot people, and/or with others on set, they will pick up on that as well.

If you get Yonguno triggers then - sold on Amazon. Be sure to get the one made for your camera. They are sold for Canon and Nikon. However, if you have a Fuji or Sony, then I have used the Canon version without issues. You will need a PC to Household plug to attach the trigger to the Speedotron pack. You can find these on Amazon - search “pc to household sync”. If you want a Pocketwizard, you get those used on eBay. You will need a 3.5mm to household and can do that as follows. Search Amazon for “Adorama Mini Phono 3.5mm to Household Adapter for Flash Synch Cords”. Search Amazon for “2 Pack 3.5mm 1/8" Male TS Mono Plug to 90 Degree Right Angle 3.5mm Male Mono Jack Audio Cable”

If you get Yonguno triggers then - sold on Amazon. Be sure to get the one made for your camera. They are sold for Canon and Nikon. However, if you have a Fuji or Sony, then I have used the Canon version without issues. You will need a PC to Household plug to attach the trigger to the Speedotron pack. You can find these on Amazon - search “pc to household sync”. If you want a Pocketwizard, you get those used on eBay. You will need a 3.5mm to household and can do that as follows. Search Amazon for “Adorama Mini Phono 3.5mm to Household Adapter for Flash Synch Cords”. Search Amazon for “2 Pack 3.5mm 1/8" Male TS Mono Plug to 90 Degree Right Angle 3.5mm Male Mono Jack Audio Cable”

@ thank you, let me look into it!

@@UsedProfessionalStrobes thank you I this helps!

After getting your questions, I was curious about my own sync cables for household. I found this on B&H and it is the simplest way to go from 3.5mm to Household. www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/682580-REG/Impact_10032330_Sync_Cord_Mini.html

If you get Yonguno triggers then - sold on Amazon. Be sure to get the one made for your camera. They are sold for Canon and Nikon. However, if you have a Fuji or Sony, then I have used the Canon version without issues. You will need a PC to Household plug to attach the trigger to the Speedotron pack. You can find these on Amazon - search “pc to household sync”. If you want a Pocketwizard, you get those used on eBay. You will need a 3.5mm to household and can do that as follows. Search Amazon for “Adorama Mini Phono 3.5mm to Household Adapter for Flash Synch Cords”. Search Amazon for “2 Pack 3.5mm 1/8" Male TS Mono Plug to 90 Degree Right Angle 3.5mm Male Mono Jack Audio Cable”

It slides off after you release a safety. The plate is indented or keyed so you can adjust the slide at set stops. The release is by the side of the plate

I am glad you are giving it a try. If you have questions, just ask as you use the system. Good luck.

You are welcome.

I think around 3 seconds at full power

I think there might be one. I use very light weight cameras, but I put a sand bag on the head and I believe one of the knobs on the side acts as a counterbalance. It's probably crude compared to today's newer heads.

You're welcome!

I think what you are saying is that you can't adjust the tripod baby pin to tilt the flash up or down or swivel. Or do you mean the band can't be loosened? If the tripod baby receiver is stuck, then I would loosen it and work it back and forth. I have had some get stuck on Profoto heads. After working them back and forth I was able to get them unstuck - the good news is they stayed unstuck.

Correct, it will not tilt on the tripod (or off). I actually took it apart and even then neither will budge (I have two of these). Would you mind sharing how you adjusted the pin? I am trying to be very careful to not break anything.

Sure, I don't have my Compact 600 anymore, but let me see if I can get a video on the AcuteD4 head. That is where I noticed the issue on my end. I believe the way the baby receiver works the same on the D4 and Compact. As an alternative, I could do a Apple FaceTime to help trouble shoot. If you want to go that route, then I will post an email so we can exchange phone information outside of this comment section.

You can also tap the receiver with a hammer. I would place a piece of wood against the receiver (metal part) and not directly tap the hammer to the metal, but rather the wood. It is just a tap to break the bind. It's a fast motion with a little mass vs a slower motion you would be using if you tried to loosen it by hand.

That is impressive - and what a way to keep old gear going/contributing. I wish I had those skills. Thanks for sharing. Steve

Yes I would imagine over time there were different configurations of the packs. Tomorrow I will take out one of the bulbs and see if there are any markings on the base of the bulb.

If you have a bulb in another head you can look as well. I suspect they twist out. If you remove it where gloves or don’t touch the bulb with bare skin. It will deposit oil and burn out the halogen bulb

I believe my bulb on a 2040 head (your head may be a different model) is this one. I was unable to get it out, it's stuck. It twists out. www.interlightus.com/products/dyna-lite-2040-modeling.html?cq_src=google_ads&cq_cmp=19545792179&cq_con=&cq_term=&cq_med=pla&cq_plac=&cq_net=x&cq_plt=gp&gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAjwqf20BhBwEiwAt7dtdREbsaAlxZwrOvGo4ypQwDysjW4Wn0ycx2_cxucwe5mPm5V8NYE7NRoCC7IQAvD_BwE

You can identify bulbs once out by markings on the base and the way the base looks. Article such as this one will help. www.lightbulbs.com/halogen-bulb-and-base-types In my case it was a T4 and base of Bulb Base Type BA15D DOUBLE CONTACT BAYONET 15MM DIAMETER. You can get replacements from non photo stores.

Yes, the head will attach to those cameras. I put an arca clamp on the head and then use arca plates on my mirrorless or dslr cameras for easy on / off functions.

You can use the external flash. There is a built in infra red sensor on the bowens. On the back of the bowens, there should be a button called cell. You want to try diifferent settings until you find which setting on the cell button sees your external flash. Your external flash should allow you to fire a test shot - so to figure out the button you don't need to put the flash on the camera to do the test. If you want to have wireless, then I would use a YONGNUO RF-603II N3. I have made a video on syncs, including yonguno's. You will need a phono plug mono adapter cord. This is a title of such cord found on Amazon Fotoconic 10ft/3M 3.5mm to Male Flash PC Sync Cord Cable with 6.35mm to 3.5mm Jack Adapter for Studio Strobe Trigger Camera Lighting. The power cable is standard and easy to find. They are used for laptops - just look for one what will fit the shape of your strobe back.

@@UsedProfessionalStrobes thx for all that info. Will see how I go 👍

@@okidoke4822 let me know - you are very close.

@@UsedProfessionalStrobes can you explain the “beep” and “ready” buttons? I’m assuming the beep is just if you want to hear if the flash is cycled? I can’t seem to find a manual for it. I’ve noticed one of the lamps isn’t working also. What exactly do you use the lamps for? The bulbs are both good though.

Beep gives a sound when flash has been changed. There is a modeling light that many people don’t use. They get hot and burn out. The strobe is more important- it makes the flash.

Thankyou for the expanded information. I think if at some point I update the video I will include your points here and in the other useful post you made.

I agree duration is not great for freezing motion, I use these packs for still life and table top mostly, so not an issue. Thanks for providing additional information.

There is no battery in this pack, no lithium. I am not sure what the rules are, but you can check for airline restrictions. It has large capacitors which I would guess wouldn't be an issue. You could also try to ask vendors or Profoto.

Slik makes some really good products that aren't all that well known in the US, at least in my opinion.

Yes, it is hard to believe how this older gear keeps up. Having said that, it is also nice that newer equipment has become more available.

I have had no issues with using these triggers on older Speedotron packs. So I don’t think it is an issue.

I used the PocketWizard 2 transceivers and plugged direct into the household outlet. I ordered the official Pocketwizard cable trigger to household plug@@UsedProfessionalStrobes

I am not sure, I wonder if getting a used one wouldn't be less expensive than trying to source parts and get the repair. In the US, you can get one on eBay for under $150.

@wszystkiezjaete - I wonder if the pack won't fire your strobe and you can't charge the pack if you need to replace the battery? I would charge it for part of a day - reconfirm it won't fire your strobe if you are still uncertain on the health of the battery.

@tommywoodard2163 - I am glad it is working out. The old stuff still works - just takes a little time to find and use.

Saludos desde Seattle - Sí, hacen buenos productos - Las otras luces estroboscópicas de otros fabricantes que tengo también envejecen bien.

I would use a Junior stand vs a regular light stand. These stands are meant to hold heaver loads than normal steel light stands. This is an example, but you can find them from Kupo, Matthews, Avenger, Provably Impact (B&H). Adorama, Sammy's, B&H and Film Tools are places to order on line. www.adorama.com/fplsrb12.html

Yes, I don't have the flash anymore, but in the video I state it does - the manual states that as well - look for photocell - www.manualslib.com/manual/2460542/Profoto-Compact-1200.html?page=11#manual

I can’t seem to find my Pulsar Trigger and need a replacement. Are PocketWizards my best option?

If you can find a used PocketWizard those are nice. I did a video on Pocketwizard and YONGNUO triggers here - ua-cam.com/video/PUyPrDP2OnM/v-deo.html However, I have also used and like YONGNUO Wireless Shutter Release & Flash Trigger RF-603II from Amazon. Get the "C" model for Canon, the "N" model if you camera is Nikon. I found the "C" version works on Fuji or Sony cameras. You will need a sync cable and for the YONGNUO the connections look like this 1/4" Phono Male to PC Male - www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/613662-REG/Impact_9031360_Sync_Cord_Male_Phono.html Good Luck!