Відео

Couldn’t agree more. Bullet proof.

I love it. Great idea.

Thanks. You are more than welcome to share your knowledge on the subject. SBC.

Yeah, poor bugger. But he survived.

Thanks mate. SBC

That would help for sure.

You can get small foils for 15hp engines. Should help it get on the plane. Let me know how it goes

G'day tacticaladvance. I am a little confused about the question. If my outboard motor is on its side, then something horrible has gone wrong. I can only assume you are talking about 2 and 4 stroke CDI motors in general such as in chainsaws and gardening equipment etc. Sticking to outboards, my concern with 2 strokes is that some of the unburnt fuel mix is pushed out of the cylinder with the exhaust fumes. It is also a dirtier burn due to the engine burning 4, 2 or 1% oil mix. This is improved dramatically with modern 2 strokes such as the ETec. Now, the simple facts are, I will release more carbon into the environment in my car, in my plane travels and getting freight moved around the country then I will ever burn running my little 30hp 2 stroke. So, for smaller engines, I am still a big fan of the 2 stroke. SBC.

If you hook the muffs up and you don't get water coming out of the pisser but you do with a bucket, then definitely use a bucket. Bucket is the best method anyway but out of convivence, I use the muffs.

Thanks mate. Glad you enjoyed it. SBC

That's fantastic mate. So good to hear. I wasn't too sure myself on how well it would go on the 15hp but sounds like it has worked amazingly well. SBC.

Thanks for the kind words. Glad you're enjoying the channel.

You must be a race/speed boat fanatic AJM. This channel is all about small boats and the basics. Off course you can get customised props and every reply you give is correct. You obviously know what you're talking about. But you must agree that to get an engine into the right rev-range on a small weekend boat setup, two or three choices will be all that is required unless that boat is way under or overpowered. SBC

@@smallboatcaptain1968 I am indeed but that has nothing to do with the basics. You don't need a custom or race prop to get the right weekender setup. Power tech propellers sold by Aussie companies have plenty of stainless options. A stainless prop with cupping is going to grab the water better, allowing you to lift the motor and change the whole characteristics of any boat. All people need is the right information instead of being told there are not many options 👌🤙👍

@@AJM-0205 I totally see your point mate but I disagree. Custom stainless props on small weekend runabouts don't make enough difference to justify the cost and protentional damage to your engine. Not to mention to extra weight spinning on the end of the shaft. Get the rev range correct with the right standard pitch and diameter and you will be 90% sorted. I could make a video about the other 10% but for the average beginner boatie that watches this channel, it's not needed. That's my opinion and I understand you don't agree, and that's OK. I used to run a watersports dept for a big resort in Queensland. We had a couple of ski-boats and our mechanic insisted we had shit props. They were stainless off course but just your standard Solas. We changed to custom props and it made no difference at all. We then changed to another custom prop and lost our high-end rev range unloaded. finally found a cup in a smaller diameter that gave up our revs back and it was better out of the hole but at the end of the day, I couldn't justify the expense so just stuck with Solas. We spent a lot of money to make a small difference. I agree with what you are saying, the right custom prop makes a difference. Just not enough for a bloke like me to go changing from a $150 aluminium off the shelf job.

All valid points AJM. But I don't have a racing boat set up. I don't have a jacking plate. I don't want a stainless-steel prop. I do understand, and mention in the video, that the hydrofoil is there to fix a problem. Due to it being a factory setup up fishing boat, it is far from the perfect setup that you need in a racing boat. I fish around rocks and do a prop from time to time. Just part of my lifestyle and most other anglers are in the same boat, so alloy props for me. Plus, it's only a 70hp engine, so the alloy prop isn't going to flex like it would on a boat with a bigger engine that is built for speed. Going stainless on a 70hp makes bugger all difference until you hit a rock. So, I can totally see your point. It is all about optimising the set up. Or, if it isn't quite right, throw a $150 worth of hydrofoil on the outboard. SBC

Bro, you’re only partly (a mini part) correct. Go back & do more research as I don’t want to embarrass you.

@@murfrirhke4557 feel free to try embarrass me all you want my friend. Be careful but you might make yourself look like a bit of a goose. These wastes of time are mainly only popular in Australia. I'm not however, referring to the American hydrofoils that they put in the flats boats for a specific reason. Get a decent prop and set the boat and motor up properly, hydrofoils are a bandaid fix. Feel free to Google it.

@@murfrirhke4557 Don't hold back mate. I don't get embarrassed. If I am wrong then please let me know. However, my target audience is small boat owners that just want to get out on weekends and go boating or fishing. No racing boat enthusiasts with jacking plates and custom props. Just weekend boaties. I have been boating for over 40yrs, owned many many boats and have worked for many years as a commercial skipper so like to think I know a little. But always willing to learn. SBC.

Thanks so much. Nice to hear mate.

Hahaha. Mine included.

I will do that for sure but what do you mean about Trip your danforth? I have never heard that term before.

Sorry for the confusion- maybe just my term but what I mean is most of them have a hole on the end where the flukes pivot from - the anchor chain is shackled to this point and run back to the normal point of attachment- some cable Tie this joint others lash it but either way if you snag up you can break the secondary attachment point and pick the anchor up and out of its hookup from the primary point.

@@nathanvary7482 I am with you now. Yeah I agree. I will do an "on the water" video and may even try to get my anchor snagged and show how it can be saved. Thanks for the feedback. SBC

Haha The Park Bad Boy. What a UA-cam Name. Always happy to help mate. Thats what this channel is all about. I just went online to see what props are available and you've done your homework. With such a massive rev problem, I would be trying to prop the pitch to around 10.5 but seems that you can't. So that prop is about all that you can try. I don't think it will get it in that sweet spot but it will help. I tried finding a 10.5 x10 for a 50 Yammy but they don't seem to make them. Sorry I can't be more help Park Bad Boy. SBC.

@@smallboatcaptain1968thanks mate good advice. I'm going to take it out on a calm day and do some tests and workout if I go down to one or two pitches, either the G series 11 5/8 x 11 or even lower at 11 3/4 x 10....I'll keep an eye out for an after market 10.5 x10.

@@TheParkBadBoy Let me know how it goes mate. Its a tricky one.

How did it go? Charge enough to keep the accessory batteries going?

@smallboatcaptain1968 it works ok thinking of getting a mat made for it just to protect the bimimi. And m not sure if the minn kota can handle the 13.2v charge so I disconnect it when I charge that battery

@@regkershaw Good call. I do the same by flicking the circuit breaker to isolate the MinnKota.

Luckily I don't have aby friends.

Thanks mate.

G'day Steve. You're right mate. Two strokes have heaps more torque. It will be noticeable but that is not to say that the 70hp four stoke isn't going to get you through the bar or give you any major issues with power. I have a 70hp four stroke Yamaha on a plate boat that would be similar weight to the old Cruiseabout and it punches out of the hole, cruises along nicely and economically and is a great engine. Weight wise is no longer a major issue either. From memory, a 70hp four stroke is around 100kgs and the F70 four stroke is 120kgs. That's $10 more fuel in the tank. Not enough to even worry about. So my opinion remains, small two strokes such as 40hp or lower are great but anything bigger, its four stroke all the way for me. Less torque for sure but that's about it. Cruising and top end speed will be the same just at half the fuel burn. And weight is not a big issue. As much as a love the power of two strokes, upgrading to a four stoke won't be a big issue mate. SBC

G'day Mate. I am guessing that the 25hp struggles to get up on the plane and moving with such a load and unfortunately, it's unlikely that the hydrofoil with make any difference. It's just too much load for a 25hp on a 4.1m. Even a 30hp would struggle. One of my boats is a 4m flat bottom punt and I can't get that to plane with more than 3 people. And that has a 30hp with a foil. I try to avoid a hydrofoil but if I need just that extra lift to push me onto the plane or I have a ventilation issue on turning like I had in my Seajay, than I go for it. But in your case, the slight lift that a hydrofoil will give, would be enough to offset the weight. Sorry I couldn't be more positive. SBC.

Haha. My poor dogs. They have to be under my feet so I do shit like that all the time. SBC.

Haha No you're not a dickhead mate. I agree. I see them always on the positive but because of the busbar, it made sense to just cut my negs so I thought, what's the difference? And it seems to work perfectly fine. Thanks Glen. Maybe someone will comment to let me know why I should have wired it to cut the positives but until then, it seems to isolate the battery.

G'day mate. It depends on the boat. The 8.5 would work better if the boat is very light but if it has some gear in it and runs loaded up, the 8.5 would put too much stress on the engine. This will reduce the revs and slow you down. Think of boats like manual cars that are stuck in one gear. IF you were stuck in top gear, you would never get on the plane because the engine is under too much load. Low gear would get you going but you would over rev and blow the engine. You have to find that sweet spot. One way to find out is to try it. If it doesn't make you go faster or is too slow to get you on the plane, just use it as a spare prop and stick with the 7.5. Hope that helps. Sorry I can't give you a definite answer.

@@smallboatcaptain1968 the boat weights like 150 to 200 kg. but i still think i will keep 7.5 since i got 30 kmh with it, think its good speed for outboard engine which is only 8 hp. thanks for answer. appericiate

Yeah good call. Seems like the best prop for the engine.

Glad you got something out of it mate. SBC

I did spot that and have since changed it. Very embarrassing.

Hi Alex. I disagree. I avoid using foils if I can but if I need just a little lift to get on the plane better or at slower speeds, then a foil is a good option. Sometime weight distribution or not trimming the hull out correctly is the issue so if all that is checked, a foil is the last option. Thank for the feedback though. SBC.

G'day Fred. Sounds like the explorer has an issue with all the weight to the stern. The hull design of the Quintrex is an interesting one. It has a sharp entry point with that flared out bow but it is still a punt of sorts. A deep V Hull is a hull that is deep at the transom. Some manufacturers now call their hulls variable deadrise hulls and I guess technically that is true, but the deadrise is measured from the transom and not the entry point. So a hull with a 20 degree deadrise is considered a deep V hull but just about all boats have a much sharper entry point at the bow. Your explorer is very sharp at one end but is like a punt at the transom. This is important because when you're on the plane in smooth water, it's only the transom this is in the water. I love the Quntrex hull designs. They are great boats and after owning a 4m Hornet years back, I rate the sharp entry greatly. Great boat. But while you don't mention the size, with a 15hp, I guess its the 370. The 370 will plane with just a small amount of the stern in the water and by putting too much weight back there as well, this will have it riding on the keel and a tiny amount of stern. I bet its fast when she's on the plane but would be very sensitive and coming off the plane, may even have the stern wave come over and want to swamp the boat. The only answer is to get more of the keel and the back of the boat in the water. Weight distribution in small boats is so important. I will actually look at doing a video on it because I have had that issue many times in the past. I'd fix the weight issue first and see if that fixes all your problems, including the issue with getting on the plane. Ensure your engine isn't trimmed out too far and if it is still not getting on the plane, then a foil will definitely help. But I suspect the weight distribution will fix all your issues. Please let me know how it goes. SBC.

@@smallboatcaptain1968 Thanks SBC. In the meantime I did buy the small version of the SM 300 Hydrofoil, and I'm about to fit it. I'll get back to you. And I've just realised I called you SMB instead of SBC, which comes from my many years of drinking San Miguel Beer.

Ow Tom, I am so lucky that I live in the tropics of Far Northern Australia. Boating all year round. Thanks so much for the kind words mate. I have been very busy on some projects that will end up in videos so I hope I can be one of many You Tubers that can get you through winter. Thanks again. SBC.

The engine will start to over rev even on slower or easy turning. If you have a boat that it trimmed out and you turn sharply, it will suck in air and ventilate, but if it is doing this all the time, it needs to be dropped lower. I will look at a video that covers engine height so that you have a clear understanding of it. SBC.

​@@smallboatcaptain1968Thanks for your answer!

It could also be your prop under load is slipping on the rubber center it’s attached to. (If has that). My 79 Ranger w 175 merc would do it when trying to plane and I’d have to come to a stop and take off again. If i went lite on throttle I could plane, but it soon got to where it wouldn’t plane. It was an aluminum prop for family ski type boat. I finally Bought a used stainless steel 24p prop and wow big difference, the top end went from like 38 mph to over 60mph w steel prop

G'day mate. I think once you are getting that big it is better to go four stroke. They chew a lot of fuel that's all. Still a good engine.

Thanks mate. I'll get back into making more videos. I have just been away for work. The big foot is a tricky motor to prop. Bigger gearbox means to can spin a bigger, heavier prop if needed. What sort of boat is it and is it very heavy for its size?

You will mate. They are a great engine. My concern is the fuel they use but nothing wrong with the motor at all.

Glad I could help! If you have anything you want covered please let me know. SBC

Thats what I have on my 30hp. Great hydrofoil.