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RebelRooster Modeling
Приєднався 13 бер 2020
Thanks for stopping by! I hope my videos help you out. Always trying to get better and help others along their modeling path.
I can be reached at my yahoo email bacobaco6869@yahoo.com.
I can be reached at my yahoo email bacobaco6869@yahoo.com.
Mig Ammo Atom water acrylic paint: the Mission Models killer?
Today we test Mig Ammo Atom water based acrylic paint.
Was it worth the wait? Does it obsolesce Mission Models? Can non-purposed thinners be used? Is it really lacquer-like as claimed?
We find out now.
Was it worth the wait? Does it obsolesce Mission Models? Can non-purposed thinners be used? Is it really lacquer-like as claimed?
We find out now.
Переглядів: 481
Відео
Tamiya 1/72 Scale Fw190….good but small!
Переглядів 1853 місяці тому
Taking a serious plunge into 1/72 model building….and not a fan. Tamiya makes a nice baby scale kit, but I’m just a larger scale guy.
Simulating wood on plastic models: make plastic look like wood.
Переглядів 5865 місяців тому
How to make plastic model parts look like they are made of wood.
Testing the Andy’s HHQ sprue cutters.
Переглядів 2449 місяців тому
Tonight I retired my trusty Tamiya sprue cutters and picked up a replacement I hadn’t planned on. Are Andy’s cutters any good or just a name stamped on average cutters?
Save Money Modeling
Переглядів 5649 місяців тому
Oh no I want to improve my modeling but I got no MONAY!! Well fear not RebelRooster viewers...here are some products to improve your modeling while saving money.
Save your dried out paint.
Переглядів 272Рік тому
Paint dried up in the bottle? Thinner won't save it? Don't throw it out! Mr. ColorReplenishing Agent is what you need.
How to use Plastic Model Cement
Переглядів 541Рік тому
Which cement should I use on my model? Let's explore the world of cements, glues and adhesives as well as how to use.
Revell Chrome Part II: durability, decals and final conclusion.
Переглядів 2,7 тис.Рік тому
Final thoughts on Revell Chrome after further testing. Please watch Part I if you can, it will set the groundwork for this one.
Revell Chrome Part I: is this a big deal?
Переглядів 6 тис.Рік тому
Revell's new Chrome Spray is flying off the shelves. Is it all hype or does it really look like chrome?
Where’d the Rooster go?!
Переглядів 164Рік тому
Hey everyone sorry its been a loooo-oooo-oonnnggg time. Stay tuned though, I’m still here and there’s good stuff coming soon! Uh oh! I said Tempest but its a Typhoon. d’Oh!!
Terry's Tips: Making Leveling Thinner
Переглядів 1,4 тис.Рік тому
Nobody will argue that Mr. Leveling Thinner is king. But if you're in a pinch and don't have any you can make your own version.
Terry's Tutorials: Airbrush Cleaning and Care Part 2
Переглядів 315Рік тому
Now let's get down to the Nittay Grittay on a teardoen and deep cleaning. Today we will do just that on an Iwata HP-CS.
Terry's Tutorials: Airbrush Cleaning and Care Part 1
Переглядів 589Рік тому
Basic maintenance and cleaning, as well as an occasional teardown, will keep your airbrush in ship shape and give you many years of consistent and enjoyable painting Part 1: Basic cleaning and care, common to all airbrushes Part 2: Teardoen and Super Clean: IWATA Part 3: Teardown and Super Clean: Badger
Academy 1/48 A6M2 Zero Part 2
Переглядів 3,5 тис.Рік тому
Now that we got a preview, let's see how ti builds and looks.
Academy 1/48 A6M2 Zero Pt 1
Переглядів 3,6 тис.Рік тому
Has Academy been born again hard? Can they stand in the same room as Tamiya, Hasegawa and Eduard? Let's take a look at the new Academy 1/48 Zero.
Corsairs, P51 Mustang, Ambulance and upcoming.
Переглядів 408Рік тому
Corsairs, P51 Mustang, Ambulance and upcoming.
Some of my models..some OK some not-so OK.
Переглядів 2172 роки тому
Some of my models..some OK some not-so OK.
Tamiya 1/32 Zero Project: Engine done!
Переглядів 1,8 тис.2 роки тому
Tamiya 1/32 Zero Project: Engine done!
Tamiya 1/32 A6M5 Project Pt 3: Initial Engine Stages.
Переглядів 1822 роки тому
Tamiya 1/32 A6M5 Project Pt 3: Initial Engine Stages.
Tamiya 1/32 A6M5 project Pt 2: Redoing someone else’s started kit.
Переглядів 2282 роки тому
Tamiya 1/32 A6M5 project Pt 2: Redoing someone else’s started kit.
Tamiya 1/32 A6M5 Zero Build: redoing somebody else’s surrendered project.
Переглядів 4652 роки тому
Tamiya 1/32 A6M5 Zero Build: redoing somebody else’s surrendered project.
Quick update, not forgotten! Hasegawa Zero and I’m still alive.
Переглядів 1602 роки тому
Quick update, not forgotten! Hasegawa Zero and I’m still alive.
Airbrushing Scale Model Aircraft Tip: Polishing Your Model.
Переглядів 1,5 тис.2 роки тому
Airbrushing Scale Model Aircraft Tip: Polishing Your Model.
Advanced Airbrushing: getting things ready to make it easy.
Переглядів 4892 роки тому
Advanced Airbrushing: getting things ready to make it easy.
Making a cheap model look expensive. Riveting and painting.
Переглядів 1,1 тис.2 роки тому
Making a cheap model look expensive. Riveting and painting.
ua-cam.com/video/ISCp5a762dw/v-deo.html
Haven’t seen any of your videos yet but I was quite disappointed with your comments about the red hair on the box you received! They were very misogynistic and frankly demeaning towards the people who had handled the packaging! Very disrespectful and unprofessional! 👿
Terry great video I am getting ready to do a 1:48 B-17G and want to try this method. Will test on a P-47 first. How long should I wait to apply decals and will decal set/sol ruin the finish?
I waited about an hour, but remember I live in the desert.
In the 90s gunze was my go too acrylics till they disappeared.🤔 No pauls ultimate AB thinner?😁 Jman
Gunze makes a good acrylic called Aqueous. Similar to Tamiya acrylics, but smoother and tougher. Can use X20A, any lacquer thinner, alcohol and even water. I would not recommend water though as it does not mix as well and takes too long to dry. I suppose you mean UMP Ultimate airbrush thinner? I have never tried it but I do hear good things about it.
@@rebelroostermodeling6460 I use tamiya on occasion including their lacquer line but mostly mr color!😁 Jman
I like acrylics for touch ups or final paint cause they dont reignite any undercoats but yea man ever since I went to lacquer it's been a game changer. Way better than acrylic!!! But I spill every single lacquer bottle I get Swear to god. It's hilarious and sad but worth it.
I love lacquers. I also like to spray good acrylics with good lacquer thinners. The durability and ease of spraying is so good.
BUCKAW BUCKAW ITS REBEL ROOOOOOOOOOOOSTA AAAAA! Welcome back
Its good to be back.
Excelente explanation amigo!! Siempre Fiel! 💪💪
Thank you! Semper Fi!
Wow! No questions here. Incredible video.
the audio is awful..good job :(
One day I'll get a lapel mic.
Thank you Mah-Reen. Respectful appreciation from a NAVAIRCREW vet. I'm re-discovering my boyhood hobby. This time with means to do it well. Still learning, your sage advise is great.
Welcome back!!
One pack acyrilic should be safe on top to make it bullet proof
That s some shine man , well done U ... I never seen better
Love ur style brother; luv from Blitey ( London)will b Keeping eye on ya keep it up
Important tip for us all. Mix that paint probably with help from ol" electricity absolutely essential for airbrush and brush; trust me guys
Have you ever used Stynelrez Primer? They are incredible on military craft and will not hide details.
Yes I did. I liked it but took too much pressure to spray. I almost exclusively use Mr. Surfacer 1500 now.
@@rebelroostermodeling6460 I thin mine 50/50 with Ultimate Airbrush Thinner and Mr. Hobby Leveling Thinner works too. I use a .5 tip.
What do you use to polish?
I made this video a long time ago so I don't remember. But when I polish, depending on how much shine I want, I will use Flitz sometimes, Tamiya Fine and Finish Compounds, or on some occasions Maguiars Auto products.
A fine specimen indeed.
i wonder if a thinned out floor wax airbrushed would be a good top coat, say, like a watered down type of "future floor wax"? would be an interesting challenge for paining and decals afterward.
Tried that too.....kills the shine.
The best chrome ever in terms of shine and realism, BUT ABSOLUTELY UNUSEABLE ! Even after 4 months drying, you can't handle the chromed parts, even with cotton gloves ! At the moment, I've rejected it from my workbench, until REVELL find a good sealer for it !
What are you supposed to do if you think you're going to use this paint along side parts that are chrome plated?
Are you use any aquagloss for covering and saving this finish???
No, it kills the shine, though Aquagloss is the one that ruins it the least.
There he is!!! Good things come in small packages, they say. This was a good one.
aaaa-it's beenawhile partna!
I built a 1/48 FW-190 and decided to only build smaller planes in 1/48 from now on. I do build modern fighters and bombers, etc in 1/72 as I live in an apt. and space is at a premium.
Just don't forget to open the window. Nearly "fumed myself dead" back in my apartment days. Painted with them all closed and it hit me sudden and hard that I was about to pass out.
Fellow valley resident here (west side) and I'm not a fan of 1/72 either, but I do like properly cooked liver and onions... 1/72 is just to small for my liking. Unfortunately my modeling time is getting seriously reduced because I have been exiled to my garage to work on them and it gets way too hot to paint, and even cement dry faster. The Fw190 looks great though. Thanks for putting it up.
Man I have been building in my garage for about 20 years now. East West exposure too so never a break from the heat. You "kind of" get used to it but it sure sucks the fun out of it. I got a portable AC unit and have it right next to me. We'll see how well it helps. Out on the West side so you're probably make your way to Andy's once in a while?
@@rebelroostermodeling6460 I have the same east/west facing as you. The heat itself doesn't bother me, just the effects on building is a pain. Yes I do make it to Andy's about once a month or so. Most of my stash comes from there.
I love that color!!!!!! now I have to try and match it!!!!! wish me luck!!!!
Tamiya Grey Green with a touch of Khaki
@@rebelroostermodeling6460 THANKS!!!!!!!!!!!
@@rebelroostermodeling6460 I think you came up with the best formula so far!!! looks amazing!
I really like the fuselage colors. Could you share what paint you used?
Tamiya XF76 Grey Green with a touch (I forgot the ratio) of XF49 Khaki.
Hello! Thank you for your videos, they are very helpful. Tell me how do you get that super glossy black base coat? With all the steps please
Its a very long process to type out, but stay tuned as I'll be putting a video out before long on the various metal bases.
@@rebelroostermodeling6460 Great! thanks! :)
Those 6x glasses and and your dress blues. My brother you would drive the women crazy!
Tough job but someone has to do it LOL
I have been procrastinating buying these cutter for a while, but I just got pushed over. Going to hit the store next week. Great video with excellent comparisons and explanations. Thank you. Semper Fi!
terry's tip making hobbyists happy since 1970
Thanks for the compliment but I was only 2 in 1970 LOL.
Hello! If you use filling paste for the gaps, the base will not be as shiny. What do you do in those cases?
I apply some super thin CA glue over the dried putty with a paintbrush and sand it before too long. That putty loves to drink paint. CA creates a good barrier.
@@rebelroostermodeling6460 great! Very thanks!
I really like what the pigment does - a great technique, thanks. I'm new back to the hobby and want to move to water based acrylics as I'm now modelling in the middle of the house and don't want the lacquer smell that sticks around from cleaning up. So I've been trying MM paints. I really wanted them to work and have meticulously fallowed their instructions and FAQs, but I can't get the paint to stick. I've even gone through their gloss coat with water when laying down decals.
I had a lot better times with MMP when they were in their first years. Since Createx got involved they seem to have gone downhill. I still like the paint but the thinner and poly are just junk. Half the time I bought them and they were useless before I even opened them. So I use that AK High Compatibility Thinner and/or Mr. Hobby Aqueous Thinner (purpleish label) to thin the MMP and I apply the paint over Mr. Surfacer 1200 and/or 1500 and except for a couple colors I have had far better results and durability. For their metallics I use Mr. Hobby GX2 Ueno Black as an excellent base or I concoct my own base with a mix up Mr. Color Smoke Clear and GX2.
@@rebelroostermodeling6460 Thanks for the reply. I'm trying out AK 3rd Gen and Mig acrylics to see how they stand up. I'm using Stynylrez as primer now - Mr Surfacer 1500 and MCLT is excellent but it then has the smell problem.
Finally a WW1 plane :)
No fun in 1/48 scale.
I wonder how this would hold up to vinyl paint masks like Oracle 831? Thoughts?
I have not tried any masks, but it held well against Tamiya tape after being allowed to dry a couple days.
Thank you for your reply, Sir.
Does this work on metal?
Have not tried it on metal but being an acrylic, I would expect that it will not work on metal.
@@rebelroostermodeling6460 most of the paints for wheels I’ve seen our acrylic base though, maybe I need a primer?
@@anthonypipia6990 I tried with and without primers and gloss bases and saw no difference. The durability problem isn't adherence, its in the formulation....weak at the surface/chemical level. Looks great, and for wheels it should be fine because not much happens with wheels. But as an aircraft guy I have little use for it.
@@rebelroostermodeling6460 gotcha so you think it’s worth a shot for aluminum wheels?
@@anthonypipia6990 if it were me I would, but for $28 a can....I hope you have a lot of wheels to justify the cost. For one or 2 cars I probably would use something else.
Hello Terry, I really liked your video called: 'Ep 2 EVEN BETTER NMF Bare Metal Finish than before. Mr. Color SM08 Plate Silver Next' but unfortunately this paint is now virtually impossible to get, plus it is discontinued by the manufacturer; I want to make a request of you and that is that you do an 'update' of this Ep2 and try the new paints called: Super Metallic 2 and do the same tests that you did with the SM08 with the colors SM201 (Super Fine Silver 2) and SM208 (Super Chrome Silver 2). First of all, Thanks!
Hello Terry, I really liked your video called: 'Ep 2 EVEN BETTER NMF Bare Metal Finish than before. Mr. Color SM08 Plate Silver Next' but unfortunately this paint is now virtually impossible to get, plus it is discontinued by the manufacturer; I want to make a request of you and that is that you do an 'update' of this Ep2 and try the new paints called: Super Metallic 2 and do the same tests that you did with the SM08 with the colors SM201 (Super Fine Silver 2) and SM208 (Super Chrome Silver 2). First of all, Thanks!
Hello Terry, I really liked your video called: 'Ep 2 EVEN BETTER NMF Bare Metal Finish than before. Mr. Color SM08 Plate Silver Next' but unfortunately this paint is now virtually impossible to get, plus it is discontinued by the manufacturer; I want to make a request of you and that is that you do an 'update' of this Ep2 and try the new paints called: Super Metallic 2 and do the same tests that you did with the SM08 with the colors SM201 (Super Fine Silver 2) and SM208 (Super Chrome Silver 2). First of all, Thanks!
Terry you know what video series I think you would be great at? Modeling Japanese Warplanes of WW2. You would be excellent at that because of your obvious interest in them and your no doubt vast knowledge on the subject. You could do videos on the different paints used for different models, who makes the most accurate colors, how to mix those paints yourself etc. then you could do reviews of different model companies versions of these planes and even real life history of these plains. Anyway I really enjoy your videos and hope you make some more!
Greetings! You mentioned trying to find ways to achieve variations in the aluminum coat. I did see one UA-cam modeler, although the name escapes me, who used something akin to a black based mottling technique. Before the main metal color was sprayed down they mottled the gloss black coat with a variant shade of metallic like a bright silver. I suppose it might work with a darker metal shade, such as darker steel or iron. Then sprayed down the main coat. The effect was impressive.
Yeah that SM08 is a bugger to find. I ordered an SM204. I'm wondering if I can get a similar effect if I add more less pigment powder. But still highly buff out the plastic. Thanks for the tips. I saw a video of Molotow. And that stuff is indestructible. even with a top clear coat. And a chrome look. Wow! Use that car model chrome but not aircraft
Great Vid. Did you use the flat fan brush when you did the hand painting? It worked for me. I buy all my brushs from an art supply store and by as many different ones as they have. Usually about 3 or 4. I also hold the brush very loosely so as to put as little pressure on it as possible. Let me know what you think.
To be honest, I do very little hand brushing so my best guess is I held it a relaxed grip with slow long strokes.
Thank you sir, I did not consider the prospect of applying decals over chrome but it's good to know that it will work (good old Micro Set to the rescue).
One day Revell will come out with a clear protective covering for the chrome...we can only hope... I've tried everything and all i get is the reflective chome turning to silver. We can only hope i guess...
Great video Terry, you always have multiple comparisons which is nice. Plus you’re hilarious so that helps as well!
thanks terry awesome info just coming back to the hobby
Do you polish the plastic, or polish the black paint?
It depends. If its Airfix or Revell, I definitely polish the plastic first. Tamiya, sometimes. Hasegawa is usually OK by itself. Using GX2, it is shiny enough to not need a polish if the plastic is well prepared.
@@rebelroostermodeling6460 very thanks! 👍😉🙂
After, you cover whit any varnish protector?
After, you cover whit any varnish protector?
@@JoseGarcia-yk3dl only in the rarest of cases. There's nothing out there that doesn't rob the metallic look.
Can Tamiya Yellow Stopper be used as a thinner?
amazing to see your video thank you for the hard work :)