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AGE Electric Inc
Приєднався 21 лип 2023
Hello, welcome to the channel. My name is Isaac, I'm the owner/operator of AGE Electric Inc. located in S.W. Washington. I started my apprenticeship in 1996 and after 27 years in the trade I've finally decided to start my own shop. I got tired of shops cutting corners instead of just doing it right the first time. I feel I can do better and be a little bit of the change I'd like to see in the industry. I enjoy passing on knowledge that I've been fortunate enough to receive from many great hands along the way. As my business grows I will document the journey, share my knowledge and pass on my experiences along the way. Positive feed back and input are always appreciated.
Our first complete whole house project. House wiring, L.V. and Solar!
This is our first complete house project where we installed all service and house wiring, L.V. and solar components. We think it turned out pretty good with a few upgrades here and there that we believe make a big difference. Such as closet and under cabinet lighting, upgraded garage strip lights and some extra receptacle and L.V. locations.
Переглядів: 51
Відео
Use the right breaker for the panel!
Переглядів 8721 день тому
This is something I come across all the time in service work. I always make sure I have the proper breakers needed even if it means another trip or I have a runner bring one out. Just because it fits doesn't mean it's right!
DIY strikes again! No disconnect on the heat pump!
Переглядів 2,7 тис.Місяць тому
DIY strikes again! No disconnect on the heat pump!
What kind of panel is this?
Переглядів 9494 місяці тому
Had a call out after a house fire and had to disconnect everything that wasn't up to code to get the service back on. While I was going through a detached garage to get it back online, I found this little gem behind a freezer. No cover or manufacturer labels or markers. Has anyone seen one of these? Never seen a load center 2 1/4" deep with angled bussing.
Enphase IQ8+ microinverters and Q cable rooftop install
Переглядів 2,2 тис.5 місяців тому
Enphase IQ8 microinverters and Q cable rooftop install
ADDING CEILING LIGHTS TO A ROOM W/ SWITCHED PLUGS
Переглядів 2,1 тис.7 місяців тому
ADDING CEILING LIGHTS TO A ROOM W/ SWITCHED PLUGS
Mechanical Interlock for home generator
Переглядів 11210 місяців тому
Mechanical Interlock for home generator
Update kitchen plugs/ circuit protection
Переглядів 2811 місяців тому
Update kitchen plugs/ circuit protection
Upgrading a residential 3-way switch (why I don't stab in the back of a device!)
Переглядів 2811 місяців тому
Upgrading a residential 3-way switch (why I don't stab in the back of a device!)
Changing residential ceiling light fixture
Переглядів 73Рік тому
Changing residential ceiling light fixture
Awesome installation. Love the attention to detail!!!
Here in NJ i would have bid that out at ~$30k-$35k minus the solar because I dont do that. How much did you charge if you dont mind me asking? It looks clean.
Oh man, I would like that NJ price! We're in WA and we did this for $17k, not including the solar, so about $9.50 a sq./ft. This was a little less than our normal pricing as it was for an educational institution that does the build with the involvement of high school kids to expose them to construction. They can help with certain trade work that doesn't require licensing. So they couldn't really do much with us but we donated more time than anything and a few demos ( conduit bending, makeup,etc.) to help expose them to the electrical trade.
The only thing I don’t see are smoke and carbon detectors in the bedrooms and hallways
They are all there but I did seem to only get the heat detector in the garage in the video and 1 glimpse of a bedroom smoke at 4:07. The smokes still had the red dust protectors on them. But we had 4- smokes, 2- carbon/smokes and 1- heat in this build. Thanks for bringing that to my attention, I will make sure to capture those in future videos!
Looks good. 👍
Nice job , how much would you charge for a Service upgrade 200 amps
Wait until you get one that's wired straight to the meter base, and you have to call the power company to come and pull the meter so you can service the unit.
What do you mean a wire nut is not a disconnect? Lefty loosey. There. Disconnected.
does having a lower rated breaker (30 instead of 50) protect the device in the event of malfunction? i would have thought bigger capacity was better (not an electrician obviously!)
If your breaker is rated too large then your equipment will "break" before your breaker breaks. You need to size it appropriately where your breaker goes before your equipment. You also do not want the breaker to be too small.
Maybe if you love watching your house burn down
The breaker should be the weakest link in the chain and is there to protect the wire and equipment.
Two ways to go at the disconnect; Option one, fused at the apec on the equipment or a breaker style switch apec to equipment. Then option two non fused disconnect, the breaker at the panel will be the safety. A non fused disconnect comes in two flavors 30 amps and 60 amp. You can use a 60 amp disconnect but the breaker at the panel must not go over the equipment spec. Usually 50 amp is max on residential units. Now what size wire to use is different than NEC tables and confusing for lots, so don't worried about wire size. If the equipment say 30 amp max then the breaker or fuses if the disconnect takes fuses must be 30 amp.
Nicely done
So my bet here is that someone kept having nuisance trips cause the installer put a standard breaker in, instead of a thermal-trip-only motor/HACR breaker, so they bypassed the local fuse/disconnect thinking THAT was the issue, then when it still didn't work they upped the amps instead of swapping to a slow-blow breaker and forgot to put the local disconnect back where they found it. Either that or, what it looks like since the disconnect's painted, the heat pump's an upgrade of an A/C only system where the installer didn't change the breaker at the panel and the aforementioned issue happened from that, cause A/C's are usually fine on standard breakers but cause heat pumps defrost the outdoor unit by slamming the compressor into reverse, fast-blow breakers constantly trip.
Is there still an internal limit switch in the door?
@@johnsandlinjr Yes, this has built in limits.
It’s amazing how getting something to look right and be correct is considered a major accomplishment nowadays hahaha!
And it really doesn't take that much more time. It's a matter of caring to do good work.
Nice
Awesome video. Have been doing this for years and learned a ton from you. Thanks for making these videos.
Dont you hate when the last guy screws you.
Great vid. Very clean work. I just can’t stand Chinese made breakers. I can’t trust them. Sorry Leviton.
Come wire in a charger for me please
You are how an electrician should be, sir. Tip of the hat to ya. Just recently realized my electrician loaded up my Siemens panel with Eaton breakers and none are the CL type. So frustrating that they seemingly works but they don't belong in my panel. I didn't know the difference between type C and typle CL so I didn't say anything at the time. The funny thing is, this seems to be super common in retrofit jobs. They just buy bulk of whatever is cheaper and they install it in everything. Now i don't know if the difference between C and CL (Classified) is the listing/testing only or if they are any different. But it is not correct regardless. So frustrating. I guess i should replace all of them at some point and perhaps get AFCI breakers while at it as the new code requires AFCIs on pretty much all circuits.
This was a great video and I really appreciated the idea of the large j box above the panel.
I have a Siemens Main Panel that has QT breakers installed. Can I install a 100 Amp Double-Pole Type QP Circuit Breaker onto this panel? I'm installing a Sub Panel and looking for a 100A breaker that I can install into my Mail Panel to feed the Sub.
Yes, type QP breakers will fit anywhere in the panels. It's the QT breakers that have the rejection tabs and are limited to certain locations on the bussing. Like the example of a Siemens 30/40 panel where QT's can only be located in the bottom 10 spaces. I typically like to mount the higher ampacity breakers closest to the main if possible, or if I am going to relocate existing circuits into the sub-panel. A lot of times I find it isn't much more of a cost to just upgrade the existing panel to one with more spaces but there are a lot of ways to accomplish the same task and a lot of unknown variables on my part. Best of luck and be safe!
Is that the 42 or 66 space panel?
That is the 42 space.
You are an EXCELLENT teacher!!! I would give anything to be trained by you.
One electrician to another- Respect. Excellent work.
Thank you, stay safe!
Obsolete . Sell them and upgrade
It mightve been a fuse box buy for some reason they put breakers
Looks like a General Switch panel made for the mobile home/rv industry. It is very likely a remnant of the 1960 to 1975 ish era.
Gross
Ways to get around a patent.
Looks chinese to me.
During my 50 years as a sparky I never used a twin circuit breaker higher then 20 amps. They run hotter and with heavy loads they don't last too long.
The breakers yells it all. Lmao
Save a dime save a dollar, when the house burns down you can holler 😂😂😅
😆
Oh didn't hear audio, never seen breakers on an angle. This leads me to believe the wrong breakers for panel.
looks like a bryant brand panel
Yeah, it didn't have any markings anywhere and I never found the cover. And it had like 4 different manufacturers breakers in it. Just never seen anything so shallow. Thanks for the input!
Definitely looks like Bryant breakers but some manufacturers allowed different breakers in their pans.
Old Murray, zinsco, challenger, Sylvania or some shit like that. Rip er out and get a new one in. Interesting video nonetheless. 👍
Im 15 yrs old and know damn well that is not proper
Be glad there was at least a box back there. I can’t tell you how many “carpenter specials” I come across with no proper electrical box at all.
Good information. I hope your channel continues to grow. The "makers" who create electrical content almost always have code violations in their videos. We need more licensed electricians represented here to give good, easy to understand and accurate content.
Thank you sir, and I can't agree more. That's one of the main reasons I started doing this. I couldn't believe some of the advice and nonchalant attitudes towards shoddy work and bad practices. Now I just need to get better at the camera work!
Nice job sir- coming from an inspector (for what it's worth on the inter webs )
Thank you sir!
Nice conduit work, looks clean.
I totally agree with the preference for hard-wiring EVSE's. What is your preferred way to do splices if the charger comes with a whip. I'm planning to use Polaris 4-14 AWG connectors, but it does get bulky in a junction box. I think it would be helpful to include links to some of the higher quality 14-50 receptacles. I've used the HBL9450A from Hubbell.
I also use the Polaris connectors on the phase conductors. And I like to use a 4 11/16" x 2 1/8" deep box to splice in. It gives you a little more room. I will get some links up for the heavy duty receptacles. In the video is the Leviton 14-50R.
Great advice. Thank you.
You’re going to have to show this auger. I’m intrigued.
Do you trust those push in wagos that come with the lights now? I’m still skeptical, but I don’t want to sound like the old guy.
While I am not a big fan wagos, especially the push in kind, I do feel they are ok for a single led fixture. I always make sure the wires sit well in the connector and give it a tug test. I don't use them for anything that can pull any substantial load! You don't sound like an old guy, you sound like somebody that cares about the quality of an installation!
Cool video. Thank you
How did you make up the PVC nipples? I can see a male adapter on the Leviton panel side, but can't quite figure out what is between the boxes and what is on the junction box side.
I used a male adapter, coupling and a box adapter for this set up. There's another video just titled 'Leviton panel change' and at 9:03 I have a good shot of the in between nipples. And on that one, for the offset nipple I just used a female adapter and box adapter instead of the GRC coupling and chase nipple. It works the same and you can save a couple bucks on material.
@@AGEElectricInc Thank you for being so helpful and responsive in the comments. I did get a good look at the nipples between the junction box and panel in your other video. I assume there are very short pieces of straight conduit between the male adapter and the coupling.
You're welcome, I try to help and pass on things as much as I can. That's what was done for me through the years. And yes, just short pieces of conduit to mate the fittings together. One more thing, the PVC box adapters are a little deeper than the couplings, so you need to trim it just a little so it will fit tight and not be sloppy. Only about a 3/8" or so, and that's with all sizes. Especially when working with metal boxes where the side walls are not as thick as a PVC box.
And here I’ve been scouring the web high and low trying to find a tandem QP. My panel is full and I need to make room for a 50amp for my portable generator.
Glad this could help!
@@AGEElectricInc I was able to use a triplex in my box. 40amp double pull with 20 on each side. Freed up 2 spots for my 50amp generator install. Glad I found your channel.
Another great video. Quality work.
Thats when the voltage stick comes in handy
I typically stay in reverse for the whole cut. Seems like it's easier on the backing paper too. Good luck with your channel and your business!
Thanks, I appreciate it!
nice clean job
Thank god someone finally explained that. Great explanation and the visuals helped. Almost impossible to find this explanation anywhere. I have a Siemens main panel with QP breakers and I'm planning to add a sub panel this week.This explanation filled in the gaps for me. Very much appreciated.
Glad it helped!