Hey Tjay great video i wath all of yours now it has taught me a ton about setups and tuning. I was watching one of your other videos the other day and heard you mention rc street shop and a couple other places. Do you live in Ca, I am gonna be down there on vacation in a couple days for the weekend and planning a n doing some mini z driving at rc street shop and possibly super g drift.
@@rickzfpv3118 Thanks for watching Rick! Glad the videos are helping out. 👍 I’m in the Bay Area, Ca., RC Street Shop is in Southern California (6 hours away). Enjoy the tracks!
I would think that tight diff in the back is what's causing the rear to chatter. The same for any go-Kart. Locked axel causes chatter. The looser the diff you can run, the better the car will handle.
@@loopie007 Hi, The diff when it was loose had the chatter. The chatter really went away after the Toe in and camber change. I did however loosen up the rear diff today and managed to hit 6.8 with multiple 6.9’s but the car lost its punch/torque in corner exit. But it made driving a bit easier for me.
@Tjay Mac_RC do you think the Gulia has more robust steering components that prevent the steering wobble you saw here? Also, is this a defect or result of a crash? And, can't it be fixed?
This is normal and most will not even notice it especially when your car is not direct steering. I only notice it because the cars that I have are direct steering (no servo arm).
do you have parts list to get same car ? i love the build quality... i wanted to start with rc car(maybe more for drifting) but for now I have two choices, mini-z(too much plastic) or the wltoys k989.
Sorry, I don't have the parts list. This isn't my car, I just tuned it, but you can buy the kit here: www.kenonhobby.com/Atomic-BZ5-Belt-Drive-4WD-Chassis-Kit-No-electronics_p_50799.html
I wouldn't look to add more hop up on this car because the hop up for this model car is unlimited. Its going to feel like a money pit... I say figure out the setup with what you have. You should be able to fix that without buying that sway bar. I don't think the sway bar will eliminate that oversteer. You need to fix that oversteering first which I think is coming from your front tires. I would suggest to glue the sidewall of that existing tires you have. Or run low profile tires that are glued to the rims with flange type wheels. If that doesn't work, glue the sidewalls. Then set the camber to -1* and lower dual rate. Get the car running to where it understeers first. Find that tire that will understeer. Then slowly tune the suspension to get the steering you want. If you can't get the steering, this is when you want to change your front tires.
Hey Tjay great video i wath all of yours now it has taught me a ton about setups and tuning. I was watching one of your other videos the other day and heard you mention rc street shop and a couple other places. Do you live in Ca, I am gonna be down there on vacation in a couple days for the weekend and planning a n doing some mini z driving at rc street shop and possibly super g drift.
@@rickzfpv3118 Thanks for watching Rick! Glad the videos are helping out. 👍
I’m in the Bay Area, Ca., RC Street Shop is in Southern California (6 hours away). Enjoy the tracks!
I would think that tight diff in the back is what's causing the rear to chatter. The same for any go-Kart. Locked axel causes chatter. The looser the diff you can run, the better the car will handle.
@@loopie007 Hi, The diff when it was loose had the chatter. The chatter really went away after the Toe in and camber change. I did however loosen up the rear diff today and managed to hit 6.8 with multiple 6.9’s but the car lost its punch/torque in corner exit. But it made driving a bit easier for me.
Супер класссс❤❤❤❤
@Tjay Mac_RC do you think the Gulia has more robust steering components that prevent the steering wobble you saw here?
Also, is this a defect or result of a crash?
And, can't it be fixed?
This is normal and most will not even notice it especially when your car is not direct steering. I only notice it because the cars that I have are direct steering (no servo arm).
do you have parts list to get same car ? i love the build quality... i wanted to start with rc car(maybe more for drifting) but for now I have two choices, mini-z(too much plastic) or the wltoys k989.
Sorry, I don't have the parts list. This isn't my car, I just tuned it, but you can buy the kit here: www.kenonhobby.com/Atomic-BZ5-Belt-Drive-4WD-Chassis-Kit-No-electronics_p_50799.html
Do you think adding sway bar will get rid of the oversteer?
I wouldn't look to add more hop up on this car because the hop up for this model car is unlimited. Its going to feel like a money pit... I say figure out the setup with what you have. You should be able to fix that without buying that sway bar. I don't think the sway bar will eliminate that oversteer. You need to fix that oversteering first which I think is coming from your front tires. I would suggest to glue the sidewall of that existing tires you have. Or run low profile tires that are glued to the rims with flange type wheels. If that doesn't work, glue the sidewalls. Then set the camber to -1* and lower dual rate.
Get the car running to where it understeers first. Find that tire that will understeer. Then slowly tune the suspension to get the steering you want. If you can't get the steering, this is when you want to change your front tires.
@@tjaymacRC how did you use the f1 wheels being they are for 2wd?
@@aaronbembry711 AWD wheels…
www.kenonhobby.com/AWD-Wheels_c_387.html