Відео

can you ship ECN-2 chemicals to the US?

How do you recommend this with a DianaF+? My only worry is the advancing, and the little red window! 😅

it's great to go out shooting with a friend...nice easy video to watch...thanks. Developers are fun aren't they? I'm using D76 and Diafine. On my viewing screen the photos look very hot... I've got one of those Nikkormats with the same light meter overexposure problem.

Awesome

I bought your C41 pre-heat kit and a few C41 chemistry kits about 18 months ago. Both are great! Thanks for doing what you’re doing. I love doing my own colour..

Are you a storefront as well? I stop often out there at a certain beef jerky shop 🤠

Absolutely my new favorite channel. Awesome job guys!!!

Ah, love that Nikkormat!

I really like Leah's pictures. She has a good eye 👍

On your black and white green, is there a way to shorten up the minutes? By adding more syrup to develop the black and white negative?

Looked like a lot of fun.

FX39 is a developer suited for the new generation of films, and gives super sharp results, it is a compensating developer for difficult lighting conditions by overexposure and underdevelopment to subdue high contrast light. The FX39 developer is no longer made in England, it is currently made by Adox and is labelled FX39 II. The recipe is known, hence it's possible to make it yourself if the chemistry is available. Various tests have been published which demonstrated convincingly that FX39 is indeed a very sharp developer.

What sort of plastic are these made out of?

You guys are literally the best. Just shooting my first roll of Psychedelic Street.

Very interesting, going to have to try that developer with Rollei Retro 80S when it comes out.

Can't really judge sharpness from these images, but no matter, will be interesting to try. Kudos for producing this and expanding the company stocks!

Wow suuuper contrast 😮

I can’t find it anywhere in USA. Anyone find some please reply. Thanks!

You guys are killing it. Please keep it up! Waiting for this to come in stock somewhere in the States. I will definitely be buying more Flic Film.

Sunny16 instead of smartphone! :-)

Digital film camera? How does that work? How have i never heard of such a camera?

Idiots with cameras…

Brother, although tripod stabilizes the camera greatly, it is still very brave to shoot long exposures without shutter release cables, as even the slightest vibration will cause blur

Hey flic film, get B&H to sell Psycedelic Street 400 !

I’m looking at a picture of a receipt from 1990 for a Canon EOS 630 and EF 35-70mm … AND a roll of “Fuji CN 135-24 HR-100 Print Film” (picture of receipt was from an eBay auction iirc or maybe someone’s blog … but anyhow store was Ohio in USA in 1990). Soooo … how much did 24 frames of C41 100 ISO film cost 34 years ago? $3.89 ! Let that sink in. 34 years ago and only 24 frames. Not a LOMO film or Kono or dubble or Revolog who muck with film that they get from other manufacturers, which adds cost (hence $15-20 a roll). Google says that $3.89 in 1990 is $9.35 today. B&H will sell you 36 frames of Gold 200 for $8.59 (and 24 frames for $6.99!). ColorPlus (also iso 200) for $8.49 (hey! Ain’t color plus supposed to be a cheaper alternative?). A 5-pack of Kodak Pro Image 100 is $42.95 so that’s $8.59 a roll of 36 too. Kodak GC 400 ultra max is $6.99 for 24 and $8.98 for 36 Wolfen NC400 and NC500 are currently on sale for $9.99 each Fuji 200 (36) is $7.99 and 400 (36) is $8.39 Flic Film has several entries under $11.99 the camera works out to be $850 and $450 for the lens and the film effectively cost more (a little bit). And I can pick up a nice gently used 630 with 35-70mm for $40-80 roughly. I do love the 650/620/630/RT style. So retro futuristic these days like how I like mid century modern. We’ve got it good. My F-1 bodies cost many times that (and I love the old school manual everything too). What I’m saying is things feel bad but now I realize how good I have it. I had to work an hour or at my after school job in 1990 to buy a roll of film (and save for a car and driving lessons etc etc as a teenager must do) or rely on my folks for a roll. Nowadays an hour’s work gets me a few rolls of Kodak E100. Crunch those numbers! Then again our teen now has a license and our auto insurance will soon reach the international space station (okay I joke but I just narrowly avoided a head-on recently but the teen that entered my lane tried to swerve back and instead hit my side instead and popped my side curtain air bag on drivers side so I know why it costs a lot .. the mom quickly showed up and was sorry for her son .. she works two jobs to afford $17,000 a year in auto insurance for 4 boys!!! That incident likely didn’t help) Not giving up my D700 but I prefer my F3P and FM3A (plus canon FD mount) gear these days. And now I know why I didn’t shoot more rolls in college in early-mid 90s.

Oh, I get nostalgic about when I walked around with a tripod and camera all the time back in the early 2010s. The ocean with a long exposure is chef’s kiss.

I'd say its a downgrade for someone like her, the newer camera would get her perfect exposure and focus at a much higher rate.

I used to use the reloadable metal cassettes, but the sturdy ones aren't manufactured anymore. With this tool, it took some practice to get the cassette open without damaging the opening tool- I am looking forward to using this new ABS one, as I teach HS photography, and the old opener wouldn't have lasted very long! To assist opening without damaging the tiny tabs of the cassette, I lightly dabbed some dry lube onto the contact points which seems to allow it to separate with less binding.

wow never heard of a digital film camera.

an M ZEE? what is a ZEE? Looks more like an M ZED to me :)

Nice. I had an MZ-50 - similar to the MZ-60 here - and now use a Spotmatic F, which is not a million miles different from the SL (it does have a meter though!).

It never ceases to surprise me how such old cameras still take great pictures! Pretty cool video.

For real, though, modern film cameras are perfectly fine too! I shoot a Maxxum 7000 (one of the first of that era) and an even newer EOS, and both are workhorses! I've also got older cameras like a Pentax Spotmatic (basically an SL with a meter) and a Yashica D that are a lot of fun to use.

Here is the thing -you can change your sensor in your camera. Each sensor (roll of film) is a WORM drive! Once processed, they resist all EMP and electrical noise. Stable to hundreds of years versus digital media rot issues. Please enjoy your upgrade sensibly and have fun.

Have never been this early. So early that film is still wet. Do you guys have any albumen film stock?

Thanks guys!

Great info, keep it up!

Hello ! I’m going to develop a bunch of film I have 5 X 35mm and 4 X 120 film. Should i consider 120 and 35mm as the same for the kit capacity of 10films ?

Damn, 🙄 im fkn sold. 👍🏼

Would you recommend this with a Jobo processor?

Hey guys, from Québec here. Plan on buying more of your rolls and equipment. I recently purchased your C-41 developing kit. Was my first ever home developed film. Turned out great!! Thanks Flic Film!

Is this the same thing as the sodium sulfate based Prebath described on page 7-27 of the document "Processing KODAK Motion Picture Films, Module 7"?

Aww, I just bought some to develop expired Vision3 in C41. Great to know there's another option!

Nice. I do like those cardboard cases too! Any chance of a flicfilm colour 120 to go in it?

Great job guys! Have never shot 120 but its been tempting me more and more...

I've just started developing B&W film at home. I had a roll of Flic Film Ultrapan 400 come out strange. Not at all thin or too dark, and a few frames I've been able to recover in post. The one clue is that the leader and rebate are medium grey. Does it sound like I underfixed, or is the film base just really dark on that emulsion? [Developed in FPP D76 and fixed in FPP B&W fixer]

Still no c41 individual chemicals though. Why can't we get c41 fixer without buying a kit?!

Bit of a funny question, but do you have any tips on how to use a film lead retriever with your plastic canisters? I've pretty decent at using with traditional metal canisters, however for some reason I seem to struggle with your (and other's) plastic canisters. It causes me some issues when I go to develop at home, I usually end up having to tear the canister open with my hands in the darkbag, which I'd like to avoid if possible. Thanks!

what about bulk rolls