Відео

Thank you!

You’re welcome! The ABS upgrade whether s2000 or 00+ NSX is always worth it.

Running without shims will be fine. Shims are mostly for noise abatement.

Wow thank you so much for the kind words. It’s comments like this that really let me know that I’m on the right track. I appreciate the positive feedback (I welcome constructive feedback as well). Sometimes it’s hard to tell how much difference I’m making in the community but when people like you reach out and let me know, it makes feel really good about making these videos. Thank you again for your first UA-cam comment! Welcome to the nsx community and feel free to reach out if there’s any other way I can help out!

@@ChrisLumNSX Personally I appreciate the long length no bs format. Compared to trawling through forums to find duplicate answers, these videos serve as a one stop shop to people looking for information. I would love to see more videos on common reliability issues like your ABS upgrade. My car has a dreaded SRS light that could be caused by a number of issues that I cannot find any info on UA-cam. It would be awesome to see the encyclopedia of knowledge from the forums transposed to video format over time. You have the right attitude and experience to make this possible :)

@Renegade656 good feedback, thanks. So far my how-to videos have been largely based on what I've needed to do to my car or my friend's cars. But your idea to transfer forum based information to video format is definitely something that shouldn't be ignored--i think it's a great idea.

Thanks Richard! You continue to inspire me with your channel.

No, I use both of these tools for the NSX.

Thank you for watching and supporting the channel!

Thank you! Appreciate your support!

Awesome, thank you for supporting the channel and glad you were able to make use of the ABs video!

Depends how much travel you have on your suspension but I think I have about 2” of lift.

Thank you for supporting the channel! I’ll definitely reach out if I need help! Thanks for the offer.

You’re in the right place! What types of things do you think you want to attempt on the car? Like what are you comfortable with doing at the moment?

Basic mechanic skills is all it takes to do a lot on this car! If I may ask, what types of things would you like to know how to do to the nsx?

​ Hi Chris - just discovered your channel, wow ... great selection of videos. Here are some topics I'm interested in: - wheel & tire combos you recommend - interior maintenance & leather care - tips on replacing the CCU - on board driving videos And I'd like to install a type R ducted hood on my '96 NA1. What should I be prepared for? In the meantime I'll be a regular visitor on your channel. Appreciate all the work that you've put into the channel & your willingness to share.

I’ll keep those topics in mind for future videos! As for the hood, there’s really no issue besides covering your battery when you wash your car due to the duct. There are, however, many different fitment levels with the goods depending on which brand you purchase.

Thanks for the kind words! More videos coming soon! Thanks for supporting the channel!

It works just fine on these. I’ve done plenty of sets with no issues. The material is small and light weight. For a headliner you may need to use dap weldwood due to the larger size and weight and the fact that gravity pulls it directly down.

@ChrisLumNSX I live in phx Az the heat kills 3m it will peel up

It's always a possibility when using these, that's why i have a brand new one on standby so i don't get stuck in the middle of a project. You also need to know when to stop and switch tools or switch methods before breaking the tool. Applies to all tools. I've worked on joints before where a pickle fork was the only way to separate them. When trying to release one of the compliance ball joints with the OEM tools separator, i was stuck for 2 hours trying to figure out how to pop a stuck joint without breaking the tool. I knew i had reached the point where if i had kept cranking, the tool would probably fail (When you pop enough joints you know about how many cranks it takes and so you get an idea on other joints when you've reached or passed that point). So i took the semi-desperate route and started smacking it with a hammer and it did just enough to let it release. YMMV depending on how stuck your joint is. This tool has served me well though and I've used it on many different vehicles in my stable over many years--caveat is that i live in CA where rust isn't a huge issue either.

Also, the thumbnail says "budget" for a reason. You get what you pay for. I'm certainly not going to buy a snap on or matco ball joint separator if i don't need to. You may have to if the cheap ones don't work for you though!

Here you go: amzn.to/3WO8tcT

I know what you mean! They're very un-Honda like and overly complicated. Old age makes them fragile which compounds the problems. I dread having to remove them each time!

@@ChrisLumNSX Yessir! About to do this very soon! appreciate the video! also do you have a walkthrough on how to change side mirrors? or is it just a few bolts and a plug after removing the door cards? Thank you!

no video, but you're correct. it's 2 or 3 nuts or bolts and a plug once the door cards come off.

You're correct, there won't be much difference in feeling from the different spring stiffness, but you may notice a difference in ride quality due to the stroke that was taken away due to the cups being added. Since you have a different car, it wouldn't be a fair comparison at all, it would just be something for you to look out for. As for bumpstops, similarly, your car will be different. In general though, you don't want to be hitting bump stops a lot so if you are, you'll want to cut your stops or rethink how low you want your car to be. Sometimes it's a matter of testing so you'll want to try it all in stages and see how you like it, then decide on ride height, bump stops, etc. after you've figured out how your car rides.

@ChrisLumNSX Thanks for the reply! As far as typical brz ride height goes, I'm aiming to have my height within a range thats still considered "not super low" in regular circumstances, but I definitely agree it'll probably take some testing to make sure I'm not bottoming out often. Hopefully with your feedback I can at least reduce the number of times I'll have to mess with anything haha.

Yeah I heard there is a new one. I have one on order.

haha thanks!

Glad you enjoyed it!

Thanks! It was definitely a unique and fun experience!

You'd have to google search. It's Craftsman brand and i purchased it a long time ago at Sears.

I think these are Chasing J’s brand and can be found on their website. I’ve purchased generic burnt ti bolts off eBay before too if you don’t want any branding on the bolts.

Yeah I wonder if we can convince them to make another run!

@@ChrisLumNSX You're a good solid dude with a good heart. There are many people out there who own extremely rare parts, who wouldn't want to see others be able to obtain them so that they would feel elite or feel better about themselves. Many of the later or more recent NSX owners never had a real chance to get their hands on some of these rare unobtainable Mugen parts, such as this intake because they only took ownership of the NSX over the last few years.

Thanks for the kind words. Unfortunately the car community is filled with people like that who gate keep parts to make themselves feel better and elite, as you say. They call themselves enthusiasts, but are far from it. Wanting to block people from having parts for their cars is the opposite of what we should be doing as enthusiasts. We need to be supporting each other and trying to help each other.

@@ChrisLumNSXWell said, I totally agree. 😊👍

If I had the room I’d have chosen the 72” with hutch to keep everything lower but 56” was the max width and there’s no way I could have squeezed all my tools into the 56” bottom only. It’s a struggle but it’ll have to do until I can get more garage space.

I'm not personally familiar with every type of universal filter adapter so i can't confirm. I wouldn't risk it because it's just a cast aluminum housing (and other models have a plastic housing), so it can easily be damaged if using a tool that's doesn't fit perfectly. $30 isn't much for the correct tool.

It’s a good product and customer service was excellent 👍

haha thank you!

Thanks for reaching out! I’d probably recommend the Fujitsubo or RFY 4.1. I have a video on my channel for the latter.

I’m guessing the model 3 and Y all have the same torque spec independent of wheel size but you’ll want to confirm by looking at your owners manual. Just search for wheel torque specification or lug nut torque.

Yup it’s precisely what you described. A couple people make it. Mode4 is one manufacturer and Pride is another.

@ChrisLumNSX wow, thanks for the swift response!

You’re welcome!

That’s ok. It fits very well. No one would notice the small fitment issues if I didn’t point them out. I just chose to point them out to be completely transparent with my viewers. 99% of other UA-camrs would claim them to fit perfectly simply because they didn’t notice these minor issues. The quality of the carbon and customer service were top notch so I would buy again. These should last a lot longer than the typical wet carbon from other guys as well.

Yes that would be ideal. That’s how my NSX is.

Yeah or you can always buy heavy duty ramps to drive the car onto first.

Thanks for your reply. Is there a similar plastic shroud covering the front control arm and the shock mount?

I don’t recall exactly but I don’t think so.

Very good question. It’s because the momo hub is an old design and eliminates (is not compatible with) the OEM clock spring (that’s the round wire loom behind the airbag that allows you to turn your steering wheel without pinching wires). Because the clock spring is eliminated, you have to make up for all the missing wires plus have a rotating metallic contact between the back of the momo hub in order to have a functioning horn. The works bell is a newer designed product that works with the oem clock spring so it saves a TON of time and works with all your oem connections. I highly recommend anyone use the works bell setup over the momo due to ease of install. It also makes it easier to go back to stock steering wheel if needed.

@@ChrisLumNSX Ah that's super helpful to know, thank you!

@@ChrisLumNSX What if I go with the OEM Honda NSX-R hub (part 78512-SL0-Z01)?

The oem Honda hub is the same as the off the shelf momo hub just with extra holes on the steering wheel mounting surface. Difficulty to install will be the same as any momo hub.

🙌

Thanks! The Meguiars office coincidentally right next door to mine so it was very convenient!

@ChrisLumNSX cool.

haha!

Definitely is!

The new CTR is so nice! Congrats!

@@ChrisLumNSXI like your black and red Bride seats as well 👏 😎 very cool color combination!

@@ss5153 Thank you!

Thanks Albert! Seems like you had a great time in that Gunther 911 though 😁

Definitely!

My pleasure!

haha it is!