Відео

You are correct. Timing is to right front. Degree wheel is on left rear simply for a reference point. It will always still have the same relationship to the other pistons so it does not really matter where it is.

Congratulations! Can the average person do the job? I would say so for sure. With patience, a set of whitworth sockets & spanners along with plenty of cups of tea and a "thinking chair", you will be fine. It is the things that go wrong which are what makes the difference between an easy job and a challenging job and with a 70 year old, period complex, motorcycle, there is plenty that might test you. If you do not have the tools or have doubt, I would suggest that you seek help from your local Ariel club or vintage motorcycle club.

Thanks for the speedy reply and encouragement. Luckily I like tea and I have a comfortable old office chair in the shed. I shall acquire the necessary tools, find a manual, watch your videos closely, and give it a go!

Thanks for following along my Ariel journey. The pipes are well commented on and have since been rectified so no golden anorak for you unfortunately. Ironically, they fitted and sealed better when incorrect. Shame about the aesthetics. Good pick up on the valve clearance. This also has been rectified and I will talk more about that on my next video coming.

Thanks for watching and please do continue watching further videos for comment on this. This has been noted and rectified. Funnily enough, they fitted and sealed better when they were incorrect.

Thanks and I am glad you like it. Still not registered. Paperwork is done but I have some red tape hoops that I am working through. Look for another video coming out soon that will cover this.

That would be an amazing machine to have been able to get. Shame that things did not work out better for you with that one.

Hi Andrew. Thanks for following along. It is not easy to keep motivated and to keep progressing. Especially with all of the other life pressures getting in the way. As a former manager used to be fond of saying: "How do you eat an elephant? One bite at a time". Keep chipping away and you will get there!

Thank you and I am glad that you are enjoying my videos. I was told when I started that the average time for a home bike restoration is seven years. I said that I would have it done in two years. Yeah right!

You are correct, it is running rich. I built the carb with the default settings. I have since adjusted it a little while I work through the jobs I need to do in order to get it road registered. After that, it needs a good run and then I will sort it properly. Until then, too rich is better than too lean!

Not yet Doug. I have a couple of small (but important) jobs to do on it, once parts arrive, and then I will try for a roadworthy and registration. Two more video ideas coming up!

@@mrsquariel Hope it goes well….luckily our local roadworthy bloke has a collection of classic bikes so is sympathetic to small imperfections that inflict our old bikes……

Congratulations Andy on being the inaugural winner of the "Val Page award for design detail"! I had not realised that about the front headers and they were actually more difficult to fit correctly than incorrectly! Needless to say that I love my Squariel even more now with symmetrical exhaust headers!!

tak skal du have

Thanks for following my journey

Thanks for your comments and for following my build. Regret I am unable to help with your bottom end dimensions. I was going to get mine 3D scanned while it was apart but the quoted cost was just not affordable for me. A good engine machine shop should be able to line bore the casings to the size of the bearings. It might be a good thing as the oversize, outer bearing is no longer available so you can get your cases machined to fit the bearings rather than having to use a chemical filler.

Appreciate the response. That's one of the avenues I'm looking into. It's been difficult finding somebody who's willing to do that so far. I'll get it done no matter what. The motor is going into a Wasp road racer frame

That is an interesting project. I think fitting a Morgo oil pump and Otto head gasket will be a must while improving breathing and carburation will be the biggest challenges. Good luck!

@@mrsquariel I planned on the morgo oil pump and was considering the auto head gaskets. I have some articles from I believe Terry Chesterfield on how he enlarged the crankshaft oiling journals and some other people talked about enlarging the return passages for the head. If you have any other suggestions I'm all ears. Thanks again for posting the videos they will be very helpful

@@mrsquariel is there a way to contact you outside of UA-cam?

I guess that is why, proportionality, a good number of them have survived.

Thanks Andrew. First time around the block on it today and super happy with how it went. Short video on that coming out soon. Good luck with your build.

Thanks Bruce. I keep having to remind myself that they were designed and built by blokes in cardigans, smoking a pipe!

Thanks Bruce. Feel free to DM me on info@squariel.com.au and I will share the details.

Hi Sherman. Unable to find the number sorry. I just purchased them from Drags.

Thanks Thomas. It means a lot to hear that these videos have been helpful. Good luck with your project.

Thanks Paul

Tak min ven

Thanks Doug. So happy to hear it finally make noise. Next battle is to sort out all the little teething things and get it roadworthy.

It is a generic British switch. I think that one came from Draganfly but they are readily available from any classic bike spares shop.

@@mrsquariel Thanks! I am just sorting out a basket case that I picked up and your videos are already a guiding light for me in this Ariel world that I know nothing about :)

Thanks Andre

I am sure it must be something deep inside our caveman brains but it is always such a thrill when an engine fires for the first time no matter how big or small!

No need. output is controlled by the voltage regulator. If you spin the dynamo fast enough, it will produce 12v.

Thanks for your comment Paul and good pick up regarding the oil cooler. The head studs are now stainless with mild steel spacers. I am using the Otto head gasket and have tightened the head studs using Otto specifications. Not anticipating further stud issues. I have removed the oil cooler for now. All accounts are the while the engines run hot, the later bikes with the 1 gal oil tank, the oil does not run hot. I will see how it goes without the cooler and focus on having the bike tuned as well as possible. If it runs hot, I can fit a cooler again later if necessary.

@@mrsquariel Thanks Greg, Like the other posts say, I am also looking forward to it running .

Thank you for your comment Doug. Much appreciated.