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It's great in my opinion. I did get venev scorpion and Poltava stones, but their not needed to get a screaming sharp edge. I just went crazy with stones. I've had mine 5to6 years and I'd never replace it

I have a Pferd diamond file would the same technique work for cleaning that?

Awesome n informative.

Hello to you ! I learned a lot from watching your video. I didn't know there was a stone support. Special kudos for the sharpening method. It's all good. Thanks again, and big thumbs up! Hello from France! Translate with Google

Why your angle changes when the knife has a "big belly", or really, significant variation in width: The knife, along its with from spine to edge, is set at a different angle than the arm on which the abrasive is mounted (obviously - that's how you determine sharpening angle right?). Thus, if part of the knife is wider, you end up lifting the arm to reach it with the abrasive, and changing your sharpening angle.

Great job😊

If I use oil, I’ll just grab a toothbrush and some oil eater cleaner. Degreaser seems to work great.

when you go from the coarse to the 600,are you trying to create a Burr with the 600? Basically how do you know when your done with the 600 and have to go up to a 1000

I went with a kosim. The 80$ one that looks like an OG edge pro. So far so good

I really appreciate your opinion and video. And I do get most of your cons. However, I can currently purchase the KME with diamond hones and base for $179 on sale, whereas, as far as I can tell, the Hapstone RS system, without stones is $199. No biggie, EXCEPT that the Hapstone 6 diamond hone set is another $399. They do offer other types of stones for less and others for considerably more. So, I can buy a very useable, USA made knife sharpening system, with really good diamond stone included for $179, or spend almost three times the money for a few nice conveniences... Now sure, for the knife "pro" that uses their system daily, and where those conveniences are important, I get it. But, for the average Joe that needs to touch up a blade on occasion and needs a cost effective and efficient way of doing so... Well, you get my point. Perhaps more to the point, maybe the owners of KME should take your constructive criticism, and consider addressing a few of your niggles. Especially since quite a few of them should be simple fixes that really shouldn't increase production cost significantly. And hell! They can keep the "Classic" version, and just add an updated version to their options if that makes marketing and financial sense. Growing and improving is always a more sustainable business model rather than resting on the laurels of past success, after all. For me and my needs though, I'll be ordering the KME before the sale ends!

I hope it will accept Tormek small knife adapter ?

Kme just made a brand new version

It looks like worksharp precision bsharpener copied kme's clamp

KME seems like the quickest system for sharpening your own knives to an acceptable level. Also, the lightweight nature of the KME helps with it's portability. Finally, I like the simple design because it seems like the KME would be easy to clean up. However, if KME would lengthen the "U" bracket, and reinforce it a little more, the system would accept 6" stones and be much more rigid.

😮 impressive ! Do you keep the factory edge ? I did 15 degree on my s45vn sebenza but it worse now. It dull really fast

What type of handled hex key tool do you have there?

Where can you get the stone holder?

With the diamond stones upside down is there no need to apply a lapping fluid? Also isn't it common to apply a compound to the leather strop or is it fine to strop dry?

How did these do? I came across them on amazon then started doing research, as in watching youtube videos, to see if they are worth it or not, to be honest, I will most likely get them anyways, I'm more interested in how that 150 plate because I have multiple knives that need to be reprofile.

I have been using various cheap guided systems over the years and as my knife collection has grown I decided to go with the KME. I ordered all the diamond stones from 50 grit to 1500 grit as well as the Arkansas translucent and 4 micron leather strop. I have no doubt I will be able to put a mirror finish on all my knives. If you look on their website they do offer a double clamp bar attachment for larger knives as well as a scissor and shear attachment. I chose this sharpener for ease of use and it's made in the good ol' USA. Thanks for the video I enjoyed watching it.

Very interesting I do like your style of sharpening. I also do a sweep motion just not back and forth. I will have to try that see if I can get a similar edge like your manix.

Thanks for the look. New subscriber here

Still a great system for the money!

Pretty good review. Good quality, good customer service, and made in the USA come at a price. Making stuff in the USA these days is extremely expensive.

DMT warned me never to use water on my diamond stones when I first bought them (I basically use a 300, 600 & 1,200 grit stone). Instead, it sells DMT Lapping Fluid, a water-soluble (for easy cleanup) petroleum based liquid. Water that gets down into the stone through tiny pores or irregularities will eventually damage the stone. They suggest using a few drops of lapping fluid on the stone the first time as well as when cleaning the stone. Better than the rubber eraser is a STAEDTLER Mars plastic pencil eraser, available in most stores that sell office supplies. BTW, they are also by far the best erasers I've ever used to erase pencil marks on paper without leaving a trace. I'd skip the Barber's Friend goop as well, and prep a new stone by pouring on a tad of Lapping Fluid & rubbing the flat side of a chisel you don't care about (since it is going to be scratched by the diamonds). Use a little Lapping Fluid to prep the stone for each tool or (in my case) knife you are about to sharpen. A little goes a long way because it costs about $12 to $20 for a 5 ounce bottle, depending on where you buy it. But, given its a few cents per tool or knife, it really isn't sharp. The Mars eraser is very good at cleaning out metal that would otherwise cake up between the stones, inhibiting their cutting efficiency. If some metal still remains, use a bit of Lapping Fluid and a shop paper/linen towel to rub out the stone. Using Windex or WD-40 (which is too thick & you will be rubbing over the diamond chips, not between them) were both strenuously discouraged by the expert chefs who taught me to use diamond stones years ago. If you are using your 300 grit diamond to flatten a ceramic stone like a Shapton, DON'T wet either stone first. You can do it dry for a few seconds or use a bit of the Lapping Fluid. If you do a lot of sharpening, buy larger bottles of the DMT Lapping Fluid to cut your cost per use even more. Enjoy your diamond stones, I use nothing else these days except a Shapton 2000 grit ceramic Splash-&-Go for honing before stropping with 1 or 0.5 micron DMT Dia-Paste (?) diamond compound on the shiny side of a strop. If you like the green crayon-type bar compound, you can use it on the rough side, but I find the diamond-infused pastes work better on the finished leather. Just a couple of dabs can be spread over the entire leather side with something like a box-cutter blade. When you can not only pass the arm hair test, but then whittle the hair, you're there.

I'm just now seeing this video and it reminded me of the dilemma I faced when trying to pick which guided system to go with. I don't need to list them all, but all "the usual suspects" were up to capture my hard earned dollars. The TSProf was my initial choice, but your video today shows clearly something that I've not seen addressed, which is having the sharp edge of the knife facing you. I kept waiting to see if you were going to cut yourself doing the adjustments for stone thickness. Of course we're adults and know about safety, but it brings me to why I ultimately spent the money to go with the Wicked Edge system, which has the knife clamped with the edge up and much less likely to cut me when changing stones and can easily see the edge on both sides as I work through the grit progression. Both systems are slow and require patience, especially when reprofiling an edge.

I put together this almost exact setup including the angle finder. Great minds are thinking alike man ✊️

Hi Thank you for your good video, how long does this knife sharpener usually work? And after how long should it be replaced? Question 2: I do not have an electronic angle meter, and without using an electronic angle meter, how do we know what angle number to use for each type of knife, such as 15 degrees or 17 degrees or 20 degrees or 25 degrees or 30 degrees?

The BASE IS MOVING ? Not good

8:00 minutes into the video, you changed the angle of the table, that exposed the fact, the silly suction cup had let lose. This is an upgrade? Imho if you want this style, made from all steel that has no plastic or suction cups, get a Hapstone V8 or R2.

Willing to spend a bit more for made in the USA...

5 words: don’t fix what ain’t broken!

Why don't you wanna use the liquid?

Thanks for the eraser tips! I removed the rust spot on my stone with it. Guess they were just left over metal from sharpening.

Gosh that’s a fancy system. I’m waiting on a KME from the US and I’m wondering if I made the right choice… Thanks for the vid 👍 like the cable tie and tape tips.

If you can swing it buy the EdgePro resin bonded diamond Matrx stones. I have had mine for years and sharpened North of 400 knives ZERO wear. The last abrasives you will ever need. Well worth the cost. Thanks for the video. 😎👍

The Apex has an optional mount to C-clamp it to the table. I mounted mine to a base using the holes where the suction cups were. I love my Apex 4 and think it's well worth the price.

What grit stone are you first using when determining what angle the knife is at?

The Edge Pro was fine for its day, however, there are many options out there today that is a nicer build, lesser money and less of a pita to use. ONe question. What is a Tonto? I know what a Tanto is but Tonto? We talking Lone Rangers Sidekick here? KnifeMaker

I had trouble understanding what you meant with the 2 pics concerning ... "this is how you tell if angle is too high or too low." I had to watch a few times to figure out whatever you meant. AND, I have a TSPOF and use a marker to check angles. May want to actually say something like "see how the top of the marker has been removed" and see how the bottom of the marker was removed ... which means this". Simple, once I got it. Also, just watched a TSPROF vi where the guy puts his index finger under the tip to prevent "roll off". Have not tried it yet, butsure looks like it worked. Identifying a burr is easy once for figure it out. Maybe try showing the burr pulling a cloth across it as demonstration. Excellent technique and demonstration. Cool voice too.

I love sharpening on this system. I have limited time before headed off to work so I cant watch all the video but get some balsa wood and use Gunny Juice to finish stropping on the TS Prof kadet. That will make the edge RAZOR sharp.

Then Venev stones are as the reviewers say imho . I still think diamonds are great , easier, cleaner and lower maintence . The way they both cut with extremely light pressure and make a beautiful perfect scratch pattern . Not to mention it’s been easier to get the heel and tip lately . In the grand scheme of things a fixed angle system has made sharpening a very enjoyable and rewarding skill to learn and perform . I m using the compact Hapstone RS with the magnet 🧲/ tube slide for edc sized knives .

That newer Hapstone rs with the magnet on top to hold the slider and how the slider goes through a tube to keep everything compact has been working so good for me . I like the compactness , the adjustability and over all build quality . What I like most is it is perfect for edc knives up to 9” blades and under a 1/4” thick at the clamp is it’s limitations . I just tried some Venev Ursa stones and they’re not too thin for me . I thought they might be . Maybe a video about the different grit ratings and microns because it confused me for a day until I studied the subject . Actually I wrote the approximate grit on the side of the stone to alleviate my confusion and get on with the sharpening 😂😂. I really do like the little Hapstone rs with the magnet/tube slide . The clamp could use longer screws is my only gripe . Both sides hold the angle 100% , within .10-.20 . I think both free hand and guided is a good skill to learn but I’ve had much more of an enjoyable experience with a fixed angle system than a cramped hand . 😮

TSPROF is made in Russia. Venev also. Everything is going out of stock because of sanctions. Good luck getting a Kadet Pro.

I really like your instruction video here. I just bought the Kadet and my knives aren't cutting the newspaper as well as yours, so my goal is to try and do it just like you're doing it, plus, I need to order a stropping pad. Thanks for a very informative video, and hope to see more in the future. Marc T. 🙂

I just received my PD Tools Expert Diamond Stones from Ukraine. Now I just need to find a dull knife to use them on. 😂 the Atomahs are nice also.

You obviously don't keep abreast of sharpening systems...as far as the clamp it is used in both worksharp precision sharpeners. You need remember what thr competition was whrn kme came out: lansky and similiar, wickededge and edgepro. All great but with various faults as well. Thr wickededge was expensive and had issues will full flat grinds....thr edgepro at thr time didn't incorporate magnets until after thr introduction of the hapstone v5. In today's market there are far more superior and versatile systems than thr kme. Anf yes I had owned a complete set back in day with all thr gold series diamonds as well as dmt plates and chosera water stones, Dan's Arkansas stones and kme' ceramics....along with thr lapping films and stopping compound sets....the diamond rod for serrations and the 3 sided diamond plate for recurve as well as thr small pen blade jaws.....you would think after spending a pretty penny you would get good customer service....not so. My pen knife clamp was missing one of the rubber inserts, I called told Ron and was told a replacement would be shipped asap....3 weeks later nothing...so I ordered another on my own. Needless to say 2 years later the whole vise and tension assembly fell apart in my hands...luckily all my other systems can utilize all those stones...or I would have been pissed. Bottom line when the kme came out it was a good system if you had a small collection of knives, was slow and still is to this day compared to thr hapstones and tsprof whom both use 6" stones.... 6" works much faster that 4" And don't say we'll gritomatic has an adaptor...yes they do but your still only getting a 4" stroke regardless. Much better systems out there today then the kme. If your a kme fan....then rock what you love n stay sharp

The Best tool to cut foam is an Electric Carving knife, which would probably only work for cutting the outline of the pieces that go into the case. I found out how well it worked when cutting and shaping the foam for RoadRacing 12:16 Motorcycle seats.

When you say modern systems, which specific ones are you referring to?