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Awesome man, so glad this helped! Also thanks for the tip about knowing when it's properly engaged on your Z6iii - I'm looking to order that camera in the near future. :)

Awesome, glad it helped!

Thank you so much! Really appreciate it. :)

Thanks! I can't recall where I got the backdrop, but I'm pretty sure it's from Savage, which is a reputable company for their seamless backdrops. "Fashion gray" is a good one because it's a middle gray so you can go bright or dark, depending how you light it.They come in both 5-feet and 9-feet. Happy shooting!

@@saminterrante Thanks! Much appreciate the reply.

Can't say I have, but it should be the same regardless of the setting. Do you have HSS on, both on your trigger and your lights? Also what camera are you using?

Glad it was helpful!

I'm so stoked that this helped! Glad you got it worked out. Let me know if there's any way I can help in the future. :)

I agree!

Thanks man!

I have to admit though, if I were to do this now with a two light setup, I'd do the following: 1. Main light on a 36" octabank (like the Glow EZ Lock) in the same position as the key light in this video, but much closer, just barely out of my frame. 2. V-flat or reflector on the opposite side of the subject for fill, just barely out of frame as well. The quality of light this simple setup produces, I've found, looks so good. 3. I'd use the second light source to get control of my background exposure. The more I shoot, the more I find I really prefer to have a light source for my background. Give this a try if you feel compelled, and let me know how it goes for you. 👍

@@saminterrante greetings, learning from the masters 😎✌🏽

You're very welcome! Glad it helped. :)

Awesome, I'm glad it worked out for you!

Hey Shawna! That's actually a really good question and I understand why you might have had trouble finding an answer. The short answer is you can probably get away with using a 200w light if a.) it's pretty overcast outside, and b.) the light source is really close to the subject. I'd say a 400w is probably ideal, which Flashpoint makes. If you're trying to underexpose your background really far for a more dramatic effect, you'll want to close down your aperture, keep your ISO as low as possible, and then crank up your light. Your shutter speed classically would just be 1/200, but Flashpoint lights (and most others these days) support HSS, or high speed sync, which allows you to increase your shutter speed beyond 1/200 and still sync with your strobe. This is also partly why you could get away with using a 200w light in some cases. But again, I think the sweet spot that would make your life the easiest is probably to use a 400w light. I hope this helps! I know it's a little wordy, and doing a demonstration would make this so much easier. Hmmm, maybe my next UA-cam video?? Anyways, let me know if you have any other questions! Happy to help if I can. :)

I just saw this video that demonstrates using the 200w light during golden hour. >>> ua-cam.com/video/lDS8QQ9o-Uc/v-deo.html Hopefully this can be a useful reference that gets you at least a little closer to your answer!

First, thank you for taking the time to reply and including that video link! I just purchased 2 of the AD200's to try and see if I can achieve the look I am going for. If you happen to have two and decide to make a video on this subject, I will 100% be in the crowd watching the review!

Thank you!!

Yeah you're exactly right. When I saw the shot, the shadows didn't seem too dark for me, so I left it just as you said!

None that I've encountered, but I also haven't pushed the lights that hard to know if they would!

Thanks a lot Vic! I appreciate the kind words.

@@saminterrante You're welcome! Just discovered your channel and will tune in!!!

I'm not even sure what you're trying to say haha. Can you explain?

Thanks so much for the kind word! Yeah I've found that the strobes work best for me.

This tutorial is great for beginners, hobbyists, and anybody who doesn't want to invest in strobes to experiment with playing with lights and improve their portrait photography . Thanks 👍

Glad it helped!

In the case of multiple people including both men and women, I just pick one light setup for everyone.

Bahaha thanks my man, appreciate that!

It's a mere bit of sarcasm, Julian. The finer point is that lighting ratios are something I quickly learned not to go by, and to trust the acuity of my eye to achieve the look I'm going for. In this case, recognizing a shadow depth that I feel is flattering for the subject's face. I suppose I could have explained that a little better haha. I must not be much of an educator either. ;)

Thanks for the comment Rod! Hope the video was helpful.

All good questions! The higher ISO is so that I can rapid fire with my camera and my lights not misfire on every other shot. If my ISO is lower, the power of my 200 watt lights have to be higher which causes the recycle time of the lights to suffer. In theory you always want the lowest ISO possible for maximum detail and minimal image noise, but with cameras these days, I can see zero difference in detail between ISO 100 and ISO 400 (or even higher), so I'm not worried about it. As for shutter speed, I could shoot a little slower, but I see no point. 1/200 is kind of a sweet spot to freeze any motion that might happen during a headshot session. It's also part of the effort to minimize ambient light, and slowing my shutter is gonna let more natural light creep in. Regarding f-stop, I like shooting at f/4 on my 85mm lens for headshots because it gives you just a tiny bit of blur around the ears and hair which I think looks nice. If I want my headshot to look a little bit more painterly and artistc, I could open up my aperture more. If I'm trying to get the entire subject in tack sharp focus, I'll close down my aperture. Hope this all helps!

Thank you for your comment Raymond! Glad this was helpful for you. 👍

Nothing like support from your own dad. Thanks, faja 😎

Heck yes man, SO glad this was helpful for you! And I feel you, it's always such a nightmare when some tech goes wrong on set. Happy shooting and good luck!

This photographer is in the U.S. We use feet, yards, etc. Deal with it.

Thanks a lot! Appreciate the support! :)

Yeah, it's become my go-to! I love it.

That's super cool, thanks for the tip! I'm definitely a Sean Tucker fan. That dude is really special.

If you mean Aaron Nace, that's a huge compliment! That guy is amazing...and knows a hell of a lot more Photoshop than I do too haha. Have a great day man, let me know if there's any way I can help!

Thanks so much for the kind words! Good luck with your new business! Let me know how I can help! If you want to hop on my email list for more useful content, you can check out this link >> bit.ly/46H1HaX

Hey Josh! Thanks for your comment. Yep, I open them in ACR and make as many of the adjustments as I can there. There are a lot of enhancements I can make from there, and the AI masking features are so quick and are sufficient for like 75% of anything I'd have to otherwise do manually in Photoshop. I have a video on the masking features if you feel checking that out too >> ua-cam.com/video/s46bVebTX-Y/v-deo.html&ab_channel=SamInterrante Let me know if there's anything I can do to help. Have a great day!

@@saminterrante I do have another question for you. I’ve just binged most of your stuff and checked out your Instagram. Your work is so impressive, and I’m totally jealous of your friendship with Peter Hurley - that’s rad. I have a ton of questions I’d like to ask, but the one I’m most curious about is why do you opt for strobes as opposed to constants (like Peter’s kit)? I’m about to redo my kit and I can’t decide if I want to upgrade my strobes or move to something like an Amaran constant light setup. Thoughts? And also, why haven’t you made the move to mirrorless?

Thanks so much! That's really generous of you and I appreciate the kind words. 🙏