Відео

Sure. Would love to see the results.

Thanks Larry! @@ADub-Bub

Really sorry to hear. That's tragic. Sorry but this one is not for sale. I love it and will keep it as long as I'm able to drive. Best of luck in your search.

Completely understand. Thank you and please let us know what happened to that white low mileage MK1A you had/have. ? @@ADub-Bub

That's right. I avoid calling them "red top" though because it's ambiguous. Easy to confuse with older TVIS variety 4AGE engines with similar red lettering on the cam covers. I encourage calling these "small port", and the older variety "large port" or "TVIS". The large/small port reference is the design of the intake ports on the head which you can't see on an assembled engine, but the easy visual identifier is the ribbed top surface of the intake manifold on the small port variety, vs the "TVIS" badge on the older large port intake.

Sorry I have no experience with the windshield trim. I thing the Toyota repair manual details glass repair though. You can find PDF of you search around some of the old MR2 community sites.

Trying to remember but a don't think so.

Mine are the 38 tooth from Evolve. No fitment issues or play.

I had the same issue. place wheel on flat solid ground, ( face down- pulley facing up), rubber mallet and gently tap that baby till flush.

Valid. My brother's 2zz track car regularly had issues under the demands of endurance racing. My daily driver 2zz Vibe GT is unfazed by my driving or what it would go through in my MR2, going full lift very rarely and deliberately. Since I completed this series I've been really impressed by my friends 2AR MK3.

@@ADub-Bub I had a 2ar in a mk1 mr2. 205whp with the retuned ECU. Don't know why you would do a 2zz instead?

@@mr220v I dismissed anything I assumed it would add weight. 2AR wasn't a swap I had much awareness of when I made this video, and zero awareness when I found my first 20v for sale locally. Great news that the 2AR is so light. My questions would be does it clear the engine bay unmodified, and what are the trade-offs transmission wise? 2ZZ bolts to an AW11 C5X which simplifies a lot of things. Not familiar with the s54 you mention. BTW, I thought you might be THAT mr220v! You probably don't remember but I really appreciate all the help you gave me with your wiring harness, and you went above/beyond answering general swap and donor engine questions. Your reputation on MR2OC.com was well deserved. Always recommend your Wiregap harness! Hey, have you thought much about EV conversions?

There was a facebook group that had a bit of momentum pre-pandemic but don't know if it still exists. Bump into a lot of riders at the U and Sugarhouse Park.

Thanks! Oh yes, I'll keep this one as long as I can get in/out of it. I drive it often. Took it to a rally in southern Utah last spring, about a 700 mile weekend.

@@ADub-Bub That"s awesome!

Thanks! Nice! As mentioned in the vid I think the 2ZZ is best choice AW11 swap. About the time I made this video I started to daily drive a 6 speed 2ZZ Vibe GT. Love it. Torque at low RPM (all RPM) is way better then a 4AGE. To get into the high RPM power band you really have to want it. It opens at 6200ish and it's a kick in the pants, but it just doesn't happen in normal, even fairly aggressive driving. On track you can really take advantage of the power band, but I'd reluctantly use a 2ZZ for a demanding race application. All the 24 Hours Of Lemons racing I've done has convinced me the 4AGE is a tank and the 2ZZ just doesn't hold up as well. My brother's 2ZZ AW11 race car has had a lot of head gasket failures and is on its 3rd engine in about 20 endurance races close to 900+- miles each. What a blast when it's running tough! I said "reluctantly", not "I wouldn't". Having kept an eye on the used 2ZZ car market for some years, don't notice many 2ZZs survive to 200k miles.

@@ADub-Bub dang head gasket failures? any good tips on preventing that? And yeah seems like to make a 2zz last you gotta dump tons of money, rods, heads, darton sleeves to replace the MMC ones ... makes me consider going honda with a k20 or k24, but my issue is the sheer amount of custom work to make that work in an aw11, and cost, would outweigh the power gains. I hear the OEM rods can warp a bit after repetitive sustained high revvs. Something I heard mainly about 2zz's is replacing the oil pump gear, and the oilpan, I hope your friend employed both of those fixes since hard cornering could be the cause of engines blowing up due to the oil pump either blowing up, or sucking in air.

​@@Electronica27 Sorry this turned into such a long ramble, that's not entirely applicable to your comment/question: The 2ZZ oil pump gear/pan always withstood the abuse in my brother's race car. Full throttle, in the power band, 15 hours a weekend, on tracks like Thunderhill with plenty of sustained high speed turns. So I question if there's more to the reports of the oil gear failures, like gear selection error. I only have a little experience helping rebuild engines, so no revelations on avoiding 2ZZ head gasket failure. Torque to spec? Try to source a low mileage JDM with verified good compression and don't unseal the head. I'm coming at the swap problem from a daily and recreational driving perspective. A 2ZZ is going to be a blast and should not suffer in that circumstance. The AW11 is a tricky car to build for power. There are so many trade-offs working within its constraints: Engine size/weight, handling, reliability, comfort, cosmetics, fuel consumption... Then how do you measure success? Dyno chart? Acceleration numbers? Lap times? Finishing position? The whole equation gets simpler if you prioritize enjoyment of the driving experience. Where power is priority, it soon makes sense to choose a different platform that's not such a puzzle. Toyota left little room for improvement in regard to driving enjoyment, both on public roads and driving at the limit on track. Even in my race car, stock 4AGZE, relatively slow vs the cars we are classed with, I can't imagine having more fun, satisfying races. The AW11's constraints teach me to be a better driver, to carry momentum, to take full advantage of the handling strengths. Every grin that every turn puts on your face, the skills you acquire, and what you learn of the car's capabilities are worth more than compromising for horsepower.

Yeah, I've since added fiber and additional plastic structure to some of my ABS repairs. Sorry no extra caps. Enjoy that MR2!

Thank you! Love @Sushpants content! I can only offer unsupported opinion and speculation on turbo, which is exactly what the internet is for, right? My short answer is I'd take the shortest path to a reliable running AW11 rather than X months to add power that may break. Factor in your own resources of time, money, and availability of other fun cars to keep you entertained in the meantime. Long answer: My top priority for an AW11 is handling. I like superchargers and prefer the even torque delivery feel to the (very few) turbo cars I've driven. Turbo kicking in during a hard corner (like the onramp by my house) is pretty unsettling. I speculate that if we compare the area under the curves of turbo and SC dyno graphs, instead of comparing peak power, we might see SC delivers more total power over the range of usable RPM. One other reluctance I have is reliability. The old MR2 forums were littered with blown turbo projects due to excess boost. So in your situation I'd do everything possible to save the SC. If you've confirmed it's indeed toast, your 4AGZE with forged internals is a great starting point to try turbo. If you can source a healthy 20v, by all means I recommend. 2ZZ is my swap choice for an AW11 for some added work. I would not rule out a stock NA 4AGE. I've always felt the 1ZZ is an interesting consideration as they among the most plentiful motors ever (littering every junkyard), they are reliable, light, and offer 20HP over stock NA 4AGE. By no means would I add weight to an AW11 with an engine and transaxle swap heavier than the 4AGZE setup. I've been lucky with my SC AW11 Lemons race car which has only suffered from loose tension after replacing the belt. Runs like a top. I do need to install a boost gauge to get real data on how it's performing.

@@ADub-Bub Awesome thank you for the input. I have a '91 Turbo T-Bar so I understand the boost in corners aspect. The SC is dropping its gear oil into the intake even after replacing seals. I am running a C52 transmission as well so no E153 bulk as half shafts were not available when I did the swap for a few years. Currently it's set to 12psi with the T3 Boost pulley running everything conservative via DIY Mega 2. I agree, KISS works best with these cars hence why I'm thinking the 20v for the linear aspect + trumpets and ITG filter setup etc. Rather sell the good long block + its goodies than risk knocking on the door and throwing a rod. Running Knock Sense as well on it regardless but still. Decent turbo setup for me to weld up is almost the cost of a BT to do it right. Thanks for the tips! Will try to make the SC last and get a BT 20V to tinker with over the winter. :)

Hah! I'll pass, thanks but honestly you should give your FX16 all your love. I've owned a few AE82 FX16s, and my first car was a GTS. They are great cars and in some ways more fun and stylish than the AE92. GTS is just some extra cladding, cool but no more fun to drive. I've got an 4AGE swap FX project haunting my yard that I'm very excited to get on the road.

This kind of feedback is the best encouragement, so much more value than views and subscriptions. Thanks! Your cars sound great and in a way I envy your lack of resources, because having the space doesn't mean I actually have the time for all my project ambitions. Adam Shaikh is a worthwhile deep dig. Good on you!

Thanks! Sad when I hear of conversions to black.

Good observation on wrong seating position, which limits options on grip. I forgot to adjust my seat this particular stint, but once the team straps me in in the hot pit, I'm not stopping for a redo if I can steer and fully depress the pedals. This really has nothing to do with this scenario and the cars response though. Some luck, certainly, but pure luck, no. Maybe the first time I've captured footage of such a recovery, but not remotely my first rodeo. My first race of any kind in any car, in 2007, 24 Hours of Lemons at Altamont, in a stock 86 AW11 on all season tires, I spent my first couple hours in the car either going too slow, or spinning off at turn 2, a low 2nd gear off camber hairpin into the infield. By the second day I was diving into that turn, weight transfer forward, digging to the apex on the left, rear end lightened and starting to slide out as I rounded the apex. Then get into the throttle and let go the wheel. The car would plant, correct, and go about it's business, front wheels always pointing the direction of travel and maintaining lateral traction. I repeated this lap after half mile lap for hours, so several hundred times. No track since has presented a similar corner, or opportunity to dial oversteer technique, but I've had many aw11 oversteer moments over the 15 years of endurance racing AW11s I've since accumulated. (Wheel to wheel, entire tank of fuel at a time. Not a couple of short wanks around some cones every few weekends.) This technique is no fluke. Of course you're not faced with this high speed oversteer scenario if you haven't already made a mistake, and if that mistake was big enough, this technique and nothing else will save it. I assume because I'm faced with this scenario less frequently, I've improved? Maybe just slowed down. I still have a lot to learn about racing, but what I learned at that first race will remain a huge majority of my racing knowledge.

@@ADub-Bub the God has spoken 🙌

Haha, scrolled to make a comment about the seating position. Waaaay too far, straight arms are wrong. Well spoken.

Yes, basically you will face all the same choices. I don't know how different the plenum is but the Camry overflow has room to spare.

Totally agree. My sound game sucks. I've since bought some audio gear that should make my vids less windy. Setup is time consuming and deliberate though so I need to just leave it in the car ready for my next impromptu drive. The wide angle GoPro shot really illustrates the greenhouse.

​@@ADub-Bub Very cool car. You've got a survivor.. I bet it's a blast to drive.. I personally think this era of Toyotas are better than today's cars. I just find them better in so many ways, from quality of materials to durability. There's no feeling of chinese cheapness to them when you get in. Sports car tech has come a long way for sure, but a car like this is so much more fun to drive. with a frame and design like this you barely need around 200hp to have fun. It's one of those cars that doesn't need a 500hp powerplant to get a rush. It's light and nimble, and also tactile and mechanical.

ABS cement. Used for plumbing.

That kind of feedback is really encouraging. Thanks!