Відео

Thank you. Glad you're here with us.

the house is on top of a gravel ridge. Sump pumps in this neighborhood haven't run in 40 years. We did this job in the wettest year on record & had no water coming in anywhere.

about 2,200 man hors

I worked 6 hours/ day, 4 days/ week. I built equipment in 1 winter and dug out the basement over 2 summers. Roughly 2,200 hours total.

I had a good background in commercial construction & did the plans and pulled the permits myself (including a plan & fill permit where we dumped the spoil.) City inspected 3 times and reappraised after. No problems with any of it. Permits costed $300 US.

@@diycrawlspacedigoutunderpi4201 thanks for your quick response…my city. Lake Tahoe is required us to have an engineer stamped for the underpinning. I’m doing the work myself too. Thanks for the inspiration!!!

@@joemanflyer2001 In Green Bay here. You are smart to keep the engineering and permits as required. Eventually you will sell the place and would have a major problem if the work was done without paperwork and inspections. We had quite the compliment from the city engineers - they said if anyone comes in saying they are going to do an underpin, city tells them to watch videos of our project, and if they can't do it like that, to not do it at all. One argument we had to make over & over - When you dig a socket out for underpin, the wall is actually working like a beam to span the opening. We also learned that a furnished ranch house weighs 1,000# pre lineal foot on the bearing wall sides (where the joist & trusses end), and 600#/ft. on the non-bearing sides. The very best of luck to you, Sir. Hat's off for taking it on!

I appreciate that you are here and thank you for the kind words.

We considered it but decided against because we'd be stepping over it and moving it too many times. Thank you for your input. It's sure to help the net guy.

@@diycrawlspacedigoutunderpi4201 great video series!

And I can appreciate the work you are going through right now. Hat's off to you Sir.

Thank you. Glad you're here.

Glad you found the videos. Best of luck with your project, and if you're ever in north central USA, swing in for a cold beer.

There are oak trees in this neighborhood that have houses built 10' away from them and driveways 5" away from them, (for 40 years) and they are still fine. Mostly gravel here, so (I'm told) the roots go deep rather than wide.

The one we used here was converted to electric by a company called "Crete Busters." There aren't too many of these around. All the big manufacturers and some bigger rental shops offer them now.

Glad this helped. Three things we learned: 1. do not use conveyor belts w/ flights. us a flat top b/c gavel jams it up. 2. put water above and fill to a line rather than dump water in. 3. dump the cement directly into the mixer, not on the conveyor or in the batcher. Have fun. Thanks for watching.

Thanks. I gotta say, digging through junk yards and repurposing the junk into a batch plant was a fun winter project for us. Thanks for watching.

Still kickin'. Thanks. Next project is a full-size reverse trike that leans on a turn. Powered by electric, recharged either on the grid or with an onboard generator that burns cooking grease.

Cost was $50k US, plus another $5k for in-floor heat. We sold the equipment for a little more than we had in it. House appraisal went up $88k. It was a retirement project for brother-in-law Joe & me. It was either this or get fat.

Thanks. My purpose in documenting was to make sure the next lunatic who does a DIY underpin realizes how much work they are.

Thank you. I was fortunate to have an "eventful" career, and further blessed by having a unique monster project in retirement. Grandma said, "Angels love idiots." I think I proved it true. Thanks for watching.

I put it all through the shop to detail & service it. from there, it all sold over a few weeks (happily, for a little more than I had in it all.) It's all scattered throughout the upper Midwest, except for a few pieces that went to upstate New York.

It's clear that you don't know how home improvements and adding value works.

We spent $50k DIY for 1,960 sq. ft., but we didn't need to deal with water. Our house is on top of a gravel ridge in Green Bay. I was told that if a contractor had done our job, it would have costed $100k. Also, we had $0 cost to haul spoil away. The neighbor across the street used all 330 yards we dug out.

In the city of Green Bay, here. I put some sketches together showing the overall layout and some detail of the underpin in section. Was no problem at all. City was very supportive. I took out a fill permit for the spoil dump site at the same time. Saved a lot of problems later when someone called in that I was filling without a permit.

@@diycrawlspacedigoutunderpi4201 thank you I'm going to keep trying till I get one , great work on the project thumbs 👍

It is code in Green Bay.

Those are Peri 350 aluminum post shores. If you search post shores, you'll see more manufacturers.

Sorry, I can't. I did this in my late 60s, sold all the equipment when I finished it, and my mom would kill me if I took another project on. Thanks for watching, though.

Funniest reply in a Year! Thanks for the laugh.

Thank you very much!

thank you!

Panels are about 18" - 19" thick. 4" of that shows inside the wall. The original concrete wall is 8" thick where there is siding, and 10" thick where there is brick. The outside of the old footers is about 4" from the outside of the wall.

I lucked out and found it at a retirement auction in Chicago. I head Sunbelt Rental stocks them for rent now.

Yes, moving to a new house would be easier, but that's not how improvement projects work, or for that matter, how anything gets done anywhere.

Thanks. No one I know has a heated driveway - too expensive to put in and run. Moving snow is just a fact of life here, and it's actually a little bit fun. Ice does dam up in roof valleys not facing south or west. We just lay a heat tape in those areas and plug it in when temps get above freezing. Also, roofs are installed with a rubber sheet in the lowest 3' perimeter and up the valleys, so we accommodate the best we can. Thanks for watching.

Except for the neighbors next door, and the neighbor across the street where we placed the spoil, it's true that no one else knew what we were doing as I said. There was no outward appearance of a big job, no big trucks or equipment around other than the day we poured the floor, and there was no equipment parked outside except for a few hours when we were using our batch plant.

The excavator was a small JCB mini excavator that a company called "Crete Busters" converted to electric. I bought it in a retirement auction in Chicago. The machine operated on three phase electric, so I built a power cart/ tool carrier that converted my home's single phase to three phase. The conveyors were just random junk slider bed conveyors that I found on Craigslist (US) and modified them to accommodate what we needed. I sold all the equipment a few weeks after the excavation was completed. Thanks for watching.

In this area, it's tough to sell a house with major modifications done and not having permits and city inspections tied to it. We did pull permits and get all inspections for both the underpin and a fill permit for the disposal and reclaiming work across the street. It's fair to say the inspection department was fair and easy to work with, and we did not get any dings on anything we did. Thanks for watching.

@@diycrawlspacedigoutunderpi4201 Hello sir May I ask how much did permits and inspections kost you ? You see I live in EU and would like to see the diferents between USA and EU . If you dont want to tell me I will completly understand. Wish you all the best. Greetings from Slovenia EU

@@karelmarx8899 Great to talk with you, Sir. We live in the USA, near the Great Lakes, state of Wisconsin, city Green Bay. The building permit for the general construction was $350 US, and that included three inspections. The fill permit where we placed the spoil and reclaimed the site across the street was $150 US and included two inspections. The guys and their departments were very pleasant and easy to work with.

@@diycrawlspacedigoutunderpi4201 Thank you sir for answer . Greetings

Dexpan. www.dexpan.com. Amazing stuff

It was a TCP (Taylor Construction Plant LLC) brand. Made in the UK. They only build them a few months/ year. I found this one at a retirement auction in Chicago. I don't know who carries them. It was a great piece with one exception - they line splice wires inline everywhere & electrical problems are tough to trouble shoot.

@@diycrawlspacedigoutunderpi4201 Thanks for the response. I will see if I can purchase 1.

I think I'd consider starting in a corner. Shore up the joists, remove maybe 4' x 4' around the corner, and pour a new underpin panel 4' high leaving rebar stubs sticking 8" below and off the ends. Also use keyway and chamfer strip at panel butt joints like we did, or else you'll get a sloppy joint. I'd pour the top of those panels 8.5" below the plate and lay a course of concrete block. Would make a nice top, an 8'8" high finished wall, and you could put a few windows in. I'd suggest going all the way around the house in maybe 5' wide panels. Wall panels can accept house weight after 5 days, then you can dig the next panel. We lagged the new form to the adjacent panel, and the wall looked straight as a die. Research Dexpan demolition grout to break concrete. We drilled holes in a 45 degree down angle and it worked great, cheap, and easy. After perimeter is complete, dig another 4' deep in 5' wide panels sequentially below it, putting the joints for the new course of panels on the center of the first panel. In the end it would look like you built the wall with 4' high x 5' wide concrete blocks. Cool. Remember tile outside of the bottom pour, and weep holes to relieve water pressure to the inside.

@@diycrawlspacedigoutunderpi4201 Wow thank you. Those instructions are very clear and really helpful. I appreciate it!

I've done complete house foundation replacement and many other types of residential foundation improvements. Depending on your house design and weather or not there is masonry above the foundation, I would encourage you to consider elevating the house using I-beams. Then dig out foundation, build new foundation and lowering the house down onto the new foundation. You might look up Wolfe House & Building Movers for general ideas.

@@randallweaver7034 the reason we didn't jack up and replace our foundation was, I didn't want the site to look like a moonscape and have so much truck traffic in our quiet neighborhood. Very few neighbors even knew we had a major underpin project underway.

@@diycrawlspacedigoutunderpi4201 That's understandable. I enjoyed watching your videos. My original comment was aimed to the other guy with a foundation that was in poor condition.

Yes, it all sold within a few weeks of the project completion. End result was - I was fortunate that we sold it all for about $3k US more than I paid for it to begin with. Thanks for watching and participating. Good information for the next guy.

Thank you very much for the kind words. Glad you're here.

It is amazing. On top of that, we get a short load charge of $135 and only a 15-minute window to unload, plus a fuel surcharge. When we used our little batch plant, we were only pouring 1yd/ pour. We would have been skinned alive if we bought redi-mix. Thank you for watching, and for your input.

@@diycrawlspacedigoutunderpi4201 It wasn't available when your project was happening but there's a pretty cool new product called the Mud Mixer that takes your bagged ready mix in a hopper, mixes in the proper amount of water, and extrudes a continuous flow of ready to use concrete with an auger AS NEEDED. It's all the rage on UA-cam now but the most common complaint is the $3000 price. I think I can build my own for about $500-800, although I must admit that it would solve a lot of problems even at $3000 In my opinion, the biggest benefit never mentioned is that you can use it on your own schedule. It would be impossible to get a truck delivery late on a Saturday night but if you wanted to, you could mix your own after work, or whenever your buddies are available to help. Lastly, you wouldn't need to order and waste an extra yard to compensate for what sticks inside the truck or to compensate for measurement mistakes

@@G5Ckxew We decided not to use bagged pre-mix because of the many times a bag is handled, the high cost, and the fact that it only had 3/8" aggregate. For smaller jobs, though I'd use premixed bags. If memory serves, we mixed 109 batches with our batch plant.

@@diycrawlspacedigoutunderpi4201 Your batch plant is how I found your channel in the first place. I am still looking for something better suited for my needs than the Mud Mixer. Something bigger for sure. A combination of your system with bulk materials ready to go and the automatic mixing of a mud mixer would be perfect for me