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Hope it helps!!!

That's a hard one. In my area I inspect both IBC and IRC where in some areas (mostly bigger cities) they have inspectors for only commercial and for only residential. It also depends on previous experience and what might be your preference. I came out of the residential home building world and was encouraged to get my IBC certs first giving me some knowledge in both sides. With all that said, I would guess that the IBC is most important. It covers fire protection and overlaps with the fire code quite a bit. The plans examiner test for IBC is the same material so I highly recommend doing both tests at the same time. Good for the resume and sets for future options in plan review if the desire and opportunity arrives.

​@@buildingcodetips thank you for the response back. Appreciate it.

Thanks!

Hello, With the main means of egress (front door) opening into the bedroom/kitchen/dining/etc. than the front door would act as the emergency escape and rescue opening for the bedroom as well. The second door (of any size) would be a bonus! Ventilation at least in my area is accomplished through whole house fans and heat recovery ventilation units these days though there is always operable windows as well. The code book does talk about the requirement for natural light and ventilation with some exceptions. In general habitable spaces require an aggregate area of glazing equal to 8 percent of the floor area and an aggregate area of natural ventilation equal to 4 percent of the floor area. here is the code: R325.1.1 and R325.1.2 codes.iccsafe.org/content/IRC2024P2/chapter-3-building-planning#IRC2024P2_Pt03_Ch03_SecR324

@@buildingcodetips Thank you SOOO much! 8% would be quite burdensome in this little efficiency. If I read it correctly, though, there is an exception that reads "Glazed openings are not required where artificial light is provided that is capable ...". So, I think I understand it to mean that I don't need the 8% if I have sufficient ceiling lighting ... correct?

@@CraigJConrad Yes, that is how i would interpret it!

Hello, No need to worry about the garage trusses if they do not bear on the wall in question and run parallel with it. Its only required to consider the load that is resting on that wall. Floor system, roof, etc. If I understand explanation properly than I believe the sizing can be done by using the span of the house. Hope that helps!

If with window is 5ft above the bottom/floor of the tub or shower then it is not required to be tempered. Here is the code for it: codes.iccsafe.org/content/IRC2024P2/chapter-3-building-planning#IRC2024P2_Pt03_Ch03_SecR324.4

@@buildingcodetips Thank you!

The steps can be considered landings if they are at least 3ft long (in direction of travel). Each landing resets a run of stairs so as long as there is less than 4 risers between landings then technically a handrail is not required. Let me know if I miss understood the question!

@buildingcodetips thank you for reaching back out. You helped me out.

Thanks for the comment! I am glad that the vids have helped. My hope is to get back into making some videos sooner than later. Life has taken over a bit and I haven't had a chance to dive back in.

Inspector would be a great career to jump into after spending all those years on the job. Allows you to still be a part of the project but not work on it!!!

In that condition all that is required is 1/2" drywall on the garage side wall and ceiling. Sounds like what you have is all fine and correct. Here is the code reference: codes.iccsafe.org/content/IRC2024P2/chapter-3-building-planning#IRC2024P2_Pt03_Ch03_SecR302.6 Check out table R302.6

That is correct from what I have seen. All the code cycles since I have been around have had the same handrail requirements. Unless your local area adopted some other requirement the standard code should work.

@@buildingcodetips THANK YOU for your help!! And really.....thanks for a direct no filler BS video :)

Yes! I have started to see a lot more women in the trades as well as inspector rolls.

Do you mean like a kitchen island? As long as your not removing any wall and just adding the island in an existing space I would lean towards no on the building permit. However if there is a sink being added or any electrical then those trades would need a permit. I know a kitchen island (if completed per code) requires outlets. Hope that helps!

In my opinion, if you are looking into the inspector career I would try to gain as much field experience as possible in the trade you want to inspect. I would also check with your local building departments (city and county) and see if they are going to have any openings and what the requirements are. A lot of times the building department hiring will allow a year or so to get certified. Any schooling, certifications, etc is always a plus and helps the resume though. Just wouldn't want you to spend a bunch of money when all that may be needed is a little field experience. Here is the link to ICC (the code developer). Here you can look up study materials, exams, study courses and even look for opens. www.iccsafe.org/

Hello, technically yes! As long as the headers/beams aren't over spanned and line up with the amount of floors, roof, etc as called out in the chart you should be fine. Footings and piers would have to be designed accordingly to handle the point loads though. In my opinion, I would probably stop into a local lumber yard and ask them to design it. Usually those places can design a floor system for free if you are buying the materials from them. They might recommend glu-lams vs dimensional for along span and less piers, etc... Here is the link to the code section for the 2024 IRC: codes.iccsafe.org/content/IRC2024P2/chapter-6-wall-construction#IRC2024P2_Pt03_Ch06_SecR602.7.1

@@buildingcodetips I appreciate the response! I wasn't aware lumber yards would do that sort of thing. Will have to keep that in mind. I ended up hiring an engineer to design the footers and piers. I didn't want to pay the $3000 for the geo tech report and $2000 for the design but I think the peace of mind will be worth it. Plus I can use the designs for any additional buildings on my 30 acres. Thanks!

daves3819 ...Where are you located?

Hello, starting pay does depend on what your local state, county or city is offering. In our area the city pays more than the county for the inspector position. At least in my area the pay starts pretty low (for the area) but makes up for it in benefits and wage adjustments over time. For a lot of guys the first year or so can be hard on the pocket book but well worth it after that.

What type of inspector are you referring to? Home inspector or building inspector? In my opinion I would reach out to your local building department and ask them what the minimum requirements would be to get a job with them as a building inspector. Then see if it makes sense. I have a degree in construction management and was working as a superintendent for a home builder before applying for an inspector position. That helped me get my foot in the door a little just by chatting with the inspector in my area when calling for inspections on the homes I was building. If you a referring more to a home inspector certification than I assume anyone can get licensed. If comes down to the housing market then and getting realtors to recommend you.

@@buildingcodetips Thank you for your response. As I said, I am thinking of changing careers and becoming an inspector. However, I have no previous studies in construction or management. I have worked in construction before. Right now I'm researching more about the job, how difficult it can be to get a job without having experience, I still haven't decided which certification to choose. I think it would be the certification of houses first and then moving forward with other certifications. any advice or suggestion

@@cataldodalo8862 Hello, As a residential building inspector you will want to get certified in the International Residential Code or IRC. This would provide the credentials to get a job a local building department and inspect 1 and 2 family dwelling units. In my opinion construction field experience is more important than certifications. Sometimes a building department will hire someone without certifications under the agreement that they will get them within the first year or so. It definitly looks good on a resume but not always a requirement. Here is the link to ICC's website: www.iccsafe.org/ This is where you can look at different exams, study material, even look for job opening across the US, etc. Merry Christmas!

As long as the new header is sized to span the distance you want with proper bearing than anything under it is technically non structural and can be framed as you see fit, such as additional headers, openings, framing, etc.

@@buildingcodetips awesome, tysm

Hello, The first place to start would probably be to check in with your local city and county building departments and find out if they are or will be looking for an inspector any time soon. And then see if they would share any minimum requirements to be considered for the position (sometimes they will hire with the expectation that you will get certified within a year). Most inspector positions are employed through a city, state or county. There are 3rd party inspection and plan review companies out there as well, though I have not had the privilege of working with any of them in my area. Once you kind of know what's out there then its all about field experience and certifications. Here is the link to the International Code Council: www.iccsafe.org/ This is where you can research and sign up for certification exams, buy code books, study material, etc. Certifications are where its at as far as making your resume look good. However there is continued education with them so it may not be worth going down that road until you are committed and have a direction. Otherwise any field experience in the field you want to become an inspector in is a plus!! Hope that helps

@buildingcodetips it helps a lot ur advice I'm 44 years old hope I'm not to old for a building inspector

Age is not a problem at all. We have inspectors that range from early 40’s well into their 60’s.

Good point!

You would think so as that makes logical sense but at least from what we see in the field and what I have read in the code it doesn't matter which way it swings. If it does swing into the garage then there can be issues with needing a landing, which in turn takes up more space in the garage.

Only if it was dropping into a drain of some sort that has a trap. Otherwise I wouldn't connect to a sewer drain line directly. Sewer gas, potential backup, etc would be problem.

@@buildingcodetips Can't go into a trapped drain. Make sure to cover these air gaps with mesh- small rats, crickets and roaches love air gap drains

Great points!!

Hello, As long as your residence has a main means of egress (a front entry that is side hinged and a clear width of 32" when open all the way) then your garage door can be any size and swing. A couple exceptions to door swing would be if the door swings out into city right of way and/or if there are steps outside the door. If either of those situations exist than the door should swing in. Hope that helps! Here is the code: codes.iccsafe.org/content/IRC2024P2/chapter-3-building-planning#IRC2024P2_Pt03_Ch03_SecR318.2

Sorry about the miss usage of words. You are correct, I probably meant to say something like weeping or seeping and it came out wrong. Sometimes my brain cant process as fast as the words coming out. Ha!

Hello, As a non bearing wall the cut at the bottom plate should be fine. Are you able to allow the top plate to run all the way through? I would anchor the bottom plate on each end of the splice and add the strap to protect from drywall screws, etc.

I do see them bouncing back revisions to the designer on commercial projects. Its those little TI projects or residential projects that our plans examiners find it faster to just redline items that need addressed than send it back and forth. At least that's my experience as an inspector when I am out looking at plans onsite.

Hello, as far as i know the code book doesn’t get into the type of window well used or how the dirt is held back. It only requires a minimum of 9sf (3x3 minimum), and a ladder if it’s over 44” deep. General code requirements want at least a 6” separation from earth (gravel) to wood. If the gravel is right up to the window and there is a freeze thaw event then water could run in through framing components around the window or through the window itself. If you live in a warmer climate then that mostly likely wont happen. The 12” of existing gravel should provide extra depth to catch excessive rain and help with drainage into the ground.

Hello, Great Question. In a perfect world there would be a foundation wall that breaks the two units in the crawlspace with the rated wall sitting over the top of it. Per R302.3.3.2 of the IRC the rated wall needs to sit tight against the foundation or horizontal assembly complying with R302.3.3 (which just means that the vertical/horizontal assemblies are providing separation from the units) For a crawlspace though that is not intended for storage or install of fuel or electrical heating equipment there is an exception that allows for the floor system to be unrated. Per R302.13 exception 2. I had this very condition come up a couple months back where a builder constructed a duplex with an unrated floor and no foundation wall separating the units over the crawlspace. Our plans examiners allowed the condition per R302.13. If your furnace in the crawlspace then this exception would not apply. In my particular example there was a common entry and the crawl access was placed there. In my opinion, I would not install an access in each unit to prevent renters from accessing other units through the crawlspace. Or only have one access in one unit. Here is the code: codes.iccsafe.org/content/IRC2024P2/chapter-3-building-planning#IRC2024P2_Pt03_Ch03_SecR302.3.1

@@buildingcodetips Thanks a lot for providing detailed references to the latest code. I realized 2024 IRC added a lot of fine prints compared to the 2021 version and the cited exception just explained this situation. Another related question: Can I connect two units of a duplex using a fire rated interior door by making an opening in the separation wall? R302.2.2 prohibits this practice for townhouse units but there is no similar provision for duplex units in IRC. IBC, however, has the followings provisions (420.2, 708.6 and table 716.1(2)) that allows this practice. The city's plan examiner did not like my proposal initially but did allow me to run the proposal by the city's building official, which I plan to do when I formally pull my permit. Curious about your take on this question as well.

UA-cam prohibits me from posting links to IRC code or the building code forum where I initiated a discussion in particular to my situation.

@@6668-x5y I can understand why a door between townhouses would be prohibited but cant think of reason why there would any issue with a duplex. A duplex would be on the same lot and if the door meets the required rating it shouldn't be a problem. Might be more of a play on words in that it would now be called a SFR with an ADU or even just a one SFR with 2 kitchens.

Hello, Hipped roofs should be treated the same as a gable end roof. Solid sheathing, ice and water (if required), underlayment, flashing, venting, etc.

@ ok , how about the underlinement , do we need to over lap to the other roof slope?

@@manuelloja2730 Yes, though I do not know of a minimum code requirement for that. Usually at the ridges the underlayment will carry over from both sides and a ice/water/metal will be run down the valleys.

A lot of times an ADU has to be attached to the house and the utilities run through the house. If it has separate utilities and is detached it would be considered a single family residence. Depending on where you live and current zoning that can change. If the area you live in has a housing shortage they may not care if the structure is attached. It could also just be a play on words in that if its called an ADU its ok but if you call it an apartment its not.

Visit iccsafe.org. This is where you would sign up for exams to get certified, buy code books, study guides, courses, etc. There are lots of different certifications you can get so depending on your background or desires you can choose the materials needed. Might also check and see what code cycle your state is under. There are some 3rd party courses out there but I havent heard any reviews on any.

Hello, I cant speak for the area you live in but in my area the biggest concern is fencing on corner lots and cars being able to see around corners. Our area also likes to keep 6ft fence behind the front of the house and allows 36 to 42" fence in the front of house. A lot of city houses will have utility right of way that runs along the front of the house by the street which local jurisdictions may have fence requirements for. If a fence is installed without permit (pending one is required) then fines can be given and stack up until the issue is resolved. Probably depends on how active your local building department is on enforcing that kind of stuff. That's crazy if it costs 2k for a fence permit, its probably $150 bucks in my area with a request for a site plan on where the fence will go and how high it is proposed. Might be worth calling your local building department and asking what it would cost and the process if you were to go down that road. Then you know!!