Відео

Hi @MrSchuits I cannot confirm the lumens as i've got no equipment to measure it. i'm trusting the vendor and assume they will put the correct information in the manual/box. Just bear in mind that the the viz on that lake, in a good day, is around 3-5 meters...so i would not use that to measure the lumens...i think in a crystal clear waters the light would bring back the colours just fine. i've had to use the button many times with my tick dry gloves (and tick undergloves) and the button is quite ok to use, not great, but anything with gloves is a bit more difficult anyway. as for the operating time, yes, it is a bit disapointing, however, i don't know where they measure and what temperature the water was for. i normally dive in cold water (up to 10C in winter and 18C in the summertime), so this is a factor to consider. About the brand, it is not well know but it is more known than other chinese brands and the price is a big factor. i could get a "well known" brand for a price tag and unfortunately, since the brexit, there is a lot of import tax, so the price is even higher. with the TurstFire, i can buy extra batteries and exchange them during the dives and each battery is a fractrion of a new dive light. Said that, i think everyone knows what is needed for their dives. i'm happy with the lights for the type of dives/content i capture, but would not use it if i needed any professional work.

i've heard good things about the DSX. do you like it? the Oceanic i had it during my open water, given by the instructor on my 4th dive...it was nice, only if i knew what it was showing me :)

@@PerezAdvent i'm very satisfied ! Pairing with the transmitter was easy and it keeps reconnecting by itself every dive. Very good decompression management and the display is easy to see . Love the wireless recharge.

I Just bought the Apeks DSX. Gonna use it this Weekend for the first time. Really excited

how was the dive with the DSX?

nice. the auto-reconnect the transmitter i think all new dive computers have (at least the most expensive ones). my perdix has it, but the wireless recharge...how long does it take to recharge? i'm still not convinced with the recheargable devices as you're not able to change the battery (unless you can have multiple batteries and change it as required).

mine came as a package and its the BtS Suit Inflation Mounting Straps. Other options that i'm aware would be the DirZone and OMS. The DirZone you can get in 85mm (bluefindiving.co.uk/products/dirzone-argon-straps-dz-85-mm-diamete) or 110mm (bluefindiving.co.uk/products/dirzone-argon-straps-dz-110-mm-diameter-tank-mounted). If i'm not mistaken, mine is 90mm (i don't have it with me here to measure) but it will all depend on the size of your cylinder

OK, thanks for the info! Indeed all the straps kits look more or less the same... I was actually interested to see how you've attached it to the harness, as we don't see that on your video, and as the inflation tank looks pretty stable even though the straps are screwed on soft material instead of a hard backplate!

oh i see. it depend on where you put it on the xdeep stealth. from looking towards it, if you look at it, on the left side (where the spine pouch is open), you can just make a hole there and attach the strap (this was my old setup, picture 2993). if you look on the left side, you cannot make a hole the spine is closed on that side. In this case, you need to add a 2inch strap in between the pockets and make the whole on the strap. Also, at the bottom i've got a bungee to keep it togegher, not relying on the top strap. My currently setup is on the left with the strap instead on the right with it attached directly to the spine. Took few pictures, hope it helps: perezadventures.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2024/07/IMG_2990-scaled.jpg perezadventures.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2024/07/IMG_2991-scaled.jpg perezadventures.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2024/07/IMG_2992-scaled.jpg perezadventures.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2024/07/IMG_2993-scaled.jpg perezadventures.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2024/07/IMG_2994-scaled.jpg

i cannot comment on the rebreather stuff as i'm not rebreather diver atm. but from a safety point of view, you should always plan your dive and gas with failures and should never need to drink the cylinder down to 0bar...if you're diving in a hybrid team (sidemount/single mount), once the budy is out of air, they breath from 1 cyclinder while you're on another. and in sidemount teams, they can change cylinders and abort the dive and there will be enough gas to return to the surface. it is quite rare multiple regs will fail on the same dive, but this could happen, but this is where the planning of the dive and gas management comes in. if you're not planning your gas correctly and not adding safety margins, you'll be in trouble. so i don't think adding a 2nd reg on a sidemount cylinder is necessary, assuming you're diving with 2 cylinders (or more). in a single cylinder configuration it is different story

thanks, unfortunately not all dive computers have the same customisations as shearwater...

cannot comment for cave diving specific, but i'd say the D630 would be great for that. the apeks luna adv and the new player luna X would also be great (but apeks prices have increased a lot since brexit, so i'd stick with the D630).

Thanks. I really like this torch. It used to be my backup torch as I also had the Luna Adv (I did an unboxing of it ua-cam.com/video/1K3cGQ6pW6M/v-deo.html). It is now my 2nd backup torch, as I've also got the OrcaTorch D630 (did a video also comparing the Luna Adv and orcatorch D630 ua-cam.com/video/9oQr62aQ1sE/v-deo.html&list=UULFqT7uUywsaFb_n-QRDtl82A). I also did a comparison between the cheapest and most expensive ones (ua-cam.com/video/Yj51VucKpfg/v-deo.html) and I have to say, even with all the features of the orcatorch D630, it still lack the "programmable" and "lcd screen"...and I don't think there is any other torch that does that...

scuba is loud..so snorkeling/free diving would allow to see more fish...maybe its time to get a rebreather...but yes, there are loads of fish there...

i've 3d printed that one and many other things (check out the video i did long time ago about it. ua-cam.com/video/QHfSMMYfOHY/v-deo.html) for this specific startwars, i got it from thingverse (www.thingiverse.com/thing:344198) and drill a small hole for the cable and filled it up with glue so it stays attached.

thanks. I use the wetnote also for white balancing as there is too much things already in front of me and i don't want to clutter even more. taking things from and put back to the dry suit pocket is easier, but used to be a hassle, i think i only got used with it. i also have a wrist slate with 3 pages...good for quick reminders and some quick writting...but a more complex job and mapping sites wetnote is still my go to...

i think you're talking about the Perdix Essential Settings video (ua-cam.com/video/sFC6wXXwQu0/v-deo.html) instead of the D630 vs Luna Adv :)... deco stop is different from the safety stop. in tec mode there is no safety stop. it only do safety stops in recreational mode (air/nitrox) and only if you exceed 10M.

great list

here: amzn.to/3XPfxEA

not much in mine, couple of finger spools, mouthpiece, few orings ect

@@dmedwardsiii just wondering why do you keep o-rings in the pouch? i keep it on my save a dive kit.

I keep the orings to my second stage, just in case of a failure. I run deep 6's takes nothing to rebuild them. doing it in the water isn't ideal, but could keep me alive

@@dmedwardsiii really interesting. i'm not a reg specialist, so wouldn't be able to rebuild it underwater. and if i got an issue where it needs to be fixed by changing an o-ring i would be swapping to my other reg and end dive...

well. I'm going down the cave route, so yes I have another reg, and yes at that point that's the end of the dive, but I'll need that gas available to me

all explained in the "How to use" section of the video (ua-cam.com/video/gXeZEyXN0uA/v-deo.html&list=UULFqT7uUywsaFb_n-QRDtl82A). for the reciprocal heading, i explained it on the Tips & Techniques (ua-cam.com/video/gXeZEyXN0uA/v-deo.html&list=UULFqT7uUywsaFb_n-QRDtl82A)

@jamescall9674 weight on long dives is a consideration, thanks for pointing out. the potential of dropping, i'm septical about it. mainly because there are so many ways to prevent it. if you just take the torch out of the box and go diving with it without proper "preparing" it...yes, risks are high...but even a basic lanyard do the trick to avoid loosing it by droping. and I like one of the latest videos on the @divezonescuba channel about this topic - ua-cam.com/video/3DD2qFQmu2Y/v-deo.html

Selecting a gas during a dive (or prior to a dive) is simple and easy. You have 2 style options: the classic and the new style. You can change the style in the settings -> adv config 1. For images of the styles, check the manual, page 50. How you change the gas is affected by the option. I use the new style as i think it is easy to navigate. The dive computer will provide information that there is a better gas for you to use at that depth (assuming you have other gases on in the OC Gases or Select Gas menu). However, you should not rely on the dive computer for this. You should know what gas switches you need to do and when. This should be part of your dive planning. I would not rely on the computer to tell me what gas to use and when to change. This, of course, unless I'm not following my dive plan (or backup dive plan). Regarding the ascent rate, it will be shown next to the depth with arrows, regardless if you have not configured it in a row. For me, having it in a row is easy to see. Instead of having arrows that I need to decrypt what it means, I have numbers that are much easier to read than arrows-check page 13 of the manual. also, have a look at this Shearwater video that provides some general dry demo on the gas changes - ua-cam.com/video/dQiJTpU8fws/v-deo.html I'll be creating a video about the gas switches in the near future. Keep an eye on the channel. ps. link for the manual: www.shearwater.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/07/Perdix-UserManual-RevE.pdf

thanks. it is a working in progress. i've got experience talking to people in presentation/stages, but talking to the camera is another level...small improvements each video...

@@PerezAdvent My best wishes to you, just work with your heart and everything flows easier.

@@PanamaDiveAdventure thanks

its 1L. there is a small of lateral movement when I'm i'm trying to stay stationary, but nothing that a opening the other arm a bit more or adding an extra small weight does not fix. in my case, i just added a backup light to the harness on the other side...also, remember that i have a canister light to counter-balance as well. if you don't have anything to counter balance, you'll probably feel it more.

Not a great translation...but from what i could get you asked "How is this set working for you? how is it to handle?"... so the set up is good...BZ400 Extreme was already keeping me tosty in 6C water. but with the heating battery, it is keeping me warm for longer. i don't notice the heat when it is on...but i don't feel the heat generated leaving the body...it is different from the vest that you'll feel it warming out. but the undersuit is a lot more area to heat and uses more power. i've had a drysuit fail at 8C water and started to get some craps on my right leg around 1hr as the socks were wet and my feat was getting really cold...but that was it...my left side and core were totally fine...the only issue was the feet... as the gloves, i don't need to turn it on for my hands to be warm...however, the gloves are too bulk. i had to buy the XXL external gloves and i managing small objects (like bolt snaps) is not an easy task...dexterity is almost gone...but confort level is great...

@@PerezAdvent Thank you for your reply. I wonder between a vest and a heating suit. The water in winter at my place is from 2 to 4 degrees, and I do dives after 60 minutes. Without heating I feel comfortable until 40 minutes later there is already a fight. I dive in the siedmount configuration and the battery mount is also important to me. For now, I have no idea how to do it to make it convenient access.

I use a heating suit in the winter months. i'm getting a vest for the summer months, however, depending where i dive here, there is a massive temperature change (thermoclime) around 10meters. in the sea the change is small, around 1C or 2C. But lakes, it can go from 20C to 7C at 30meters. if i'm diving in lakes, i still using the full suit, even in summer months...but in this case, the battle is different, trying not to get builed (or get a heatstroke).. with the heating stuff, you need to be mindful that you should get warm only at the end of the dive. at the begining, you should be colder, so you get less nitrogen and at the end, you get warm and release nitrogen fast (this is quite interesting information from Simon Mitchell when he did an interview to the TeachMeToDive youtube channel - ua-cam.com/video/MDLAM0Whp0M/v-deo.html&list=UULFqT7uUywsaFb_n-QRDtl82A ) for the battery, i decided to put it in the crotch strap, so i can turn on/off as required. alternative was to put on next to the central spine on my xdeep, but i would have issues turning it on/off. I also, have few other stuff going on like canister light and dry suit inflation, so having it on the crotch was the only location. check out how i put everything on my xdeep hardness at ua-cam.com/video/ddjmr5FQ_ig/v-deo.html )

odd. i see both of them (maybe its just timing). anyway, i've replied the old one but in case you're not able to see, this is the reply: My full list of diving equipment (including camera, camera tray, lights, etc.) is listed here: bit.ly/my-scuba-gear I'm not using a GoPro tray for the GH5. I've got a seafrogs tray. the gopro tray is too "light" and not strong enough when using the GH5 with Lights. even with the gopro with lights i have to be careful not to loose anything. all videos since the Setting up sidemount regulators (ua-cam.com/video/ounM-NIpMuU/v-deo.html) have been recorded with GH5. I capture loads of underwater videos with the GH5, but have not yet been able to put them together in one video, but it will happen soon. related to the float arms, i've got 4 of 8". 2 of 620g lift and 2 of 312g lift. the 620 is too much lift in fresh water so i had to add some weight to it. the 312 is not enough lift, and the whole system is heavy, but this one is good in salt water. the extension arms is 5", but 8" would be better when using the 6" dome port. as the dome port adds loads of air at the front, i also 3d printed a "weight trim" for the dome port instead of attaching weight directly to it. But from time to time i add a gopro at the top of the dome port instead of using the "weight trim". i'll upload some test shots takes with the GH5 and SeaFrogs kit. will add the link here once uploaded

test footage: ua-cam.com/video/thj3o2OQZpw/v-deo.html

My full list of diving equipment (including camera, camera tray, lights, etc.) is listed here: bit.ly/my-scuba-gear I'm not using a GoPro tray for the GH5. I've got a seafrogs tray. the gopro tray is too "light" and not strong enough when using the GH5 with Lights. even with the gopro with lights i have to be careful not to loose anything. all videos since the Setting up sidemount regulators (ua-cam.com/video/ounM-NIpMuU/v-deo.html) have been recorded with GH5. I capture loads of underwater videos with the GH5, but have not yet been able to put them together in one video, but it will happen soon. related to the float arms, i've got 4 of 8". 2 of 620g lift and 2 of 312g lift. the 620 is too much lift in fresh water so i had to add some weight to it. the 312 is not enough lift, and the whole system is heavy, but this one is good in salt water. the extension arms is 5", but 8" would be better when using the 6" dome port. as the dome port adds loads of air at the front, i also 3d printed a "weight trim" for the dome port instead of attaching weight directly to it. But from time to time i add a gopro at the top of the dome port instead of using the "weight trim". i'll upload some test shots takes with the GH5 and SeaFrogs kit. will add the link here once uploaded

test footage: ua-cam.com/video/thj3o2OQZpw/v-deo.html

both of them are good even for signaling, assuming you know how to use the torch and the team is aware of how wide the beam is and confortable with it. The LunaX looks good, but the price point is too much for me. and the downside would be the cable for sidemount as it is a fixed 90 degrees and the goodman handle is "fixed" as the luna ADV

@@PerezAdvent I agree you can signal with the Luna, but I prefer the tighter spot of the Orca in your comparison. For sidemount I use the XDeep Stealth. The battery fits quite neatly on the spine and the cable then routes just right for my arm length. See video short I made for a mate: ua-cam.com/users/shortsUzVNf4qmhBQ . I agree the handle looks sexy but isn't perfect. In fact I've now reversed mine so the head sits behind the knuckles and added a bungee to loop down under the wrist. This allows full use of the fingers without fear of dropping it. As to price, yes the RRP is massive. I got mine at 50% from a store that had had one on the shelf for a while with no takers. It then made more sense!

its because the other side does not have space to make a whole for the inflation bottle. i've got some alternatives in mind that i did not yet able to test...

Absolutely!! Unfortunatelly people only realise it is that important when they need it.

its all about planning, objectives and risk management :)

unless the 90-degree is made for high pressure, it should not be used for high-pressure connections.

i've got a full package from bluefindiving (bluefindiving.co.uk/products/dirzone-suit-inflation-system-sis001). for the gauge, i got it the button gauge from dirdirect (www.dirdirect.com/products/ist-button-gauge)

I think you mean the hose hat? It’s really good when you have thicker gloves… I got mine from dirdirect here in the UK www.dirdirect.com/products/hose-hat

correct, but if you use the line, it won't be a "quick release" anymore...for a single tank or when you're sure you won't be donating your long hose, it will be ok...but in mixed groups with single tanks...i rather have the ziptie as it needs to be as quick as possible...

If you won't be donating your long hose, there is no use diving a long hose. I use a bungee with a double ender on it, That will come loose if you pull hard on it. But as I go in the water and connect everything, it also sometimes comes loose. Havn't found the right option. Now thinking of adding cave line again and just train that I can unclip it fast.

@@scubaflyi've never had issue of disconnecting when putting my gear on. in an out-of-air situation, timing is everyting. if you're 100% sure you can donate quicker using a cave line, go for it. Also, people should be aware of their gas and look after their gear. An out-of-air because people don't care about gear and don't look at the SPG/AI should never exist.

yes, swift is a bit different on how you replace the battery...but it remains similar in terms of other aspects, like battery time, o-rings (yes, it has double o-rings which is great) and screens warning... my 1st battery last over a year, however, the 2nd one did not last 6 months (but i was diving quite a lot).... from my experience, from Ok to warning, it will last long...warning to critical...will last few hours...but critical to dead...its just couple of minutes... i always have spare batteries with me just in case...and as soon as i get the warning...its time to change...(unless i'm underwater)...and this is why i always have an SPG with me...just in case this video from ShearWater shows how to replace if other people are interested ua-cam.com/video/OUHuwNANGpE/v-deo.html

😱😂

I was going to say the same thing. It’s definitely NOT a swivel… that’s a high pressure spool.

probably the name is different on different regions of the world. The beaver sports (the brand i use for mine) call is "High Pressure Hose Swivel" (see their link - www.beaversports.co.uk/Catalogue/Category/49?cat=hose-accesories). unless i'm thinking of a component and you're talking about another 😀

@bloodymarvelous4790 agreed...attaching directly is not a good way...had my fallouts this way and changed it to use a HP hose...with the splitter and HP hoses on both its not as elegant but at least the problem with people grabbing by the transmitter is reduced... for the necklace, my sking got irritated with the bungee so i changed for the silicone...there are some drawbacks as it is not adjustable, but other than that, no issues at all... why do you put a bolt snap on the SPG?! i don't see why you need to do that as it will be under our arm and almost no moving parts...on a single tank yes, but not sidemount...unless you're using a long hose for the SPG?!?!? (in this case i cannot picture why you'd do that...but there are use cases for everything :)) if you use a line to secure your long hose, it will not be a "quick disconnectd/donate" and in case of a out of air situation, you want break away as quick as possible. in a single tank configuration, yes, a line is preferable as you'll be using the long hose all the time and it will not be connected. but in sidemount you'll be changing from short/long hose quite often...but here you're assiming our budy/group is always in sidemount...my dives normally have a mixture of people skills and gear configuration...so i need to be prepared for the worst scenario...i'm totally confident my buddy will not need air from me...but other people in the group may need... on my gear checks, when i'm packing stuff, i do a check of everything...and i never had an issue (not that it won't happen in the future). long hose "loose" will be an issue in closed spaces...but less in open water... my point here...i rather have a quick release in an out of air situation than a flappy/loose long hose being an issue as i can manage a loose long hose... in any case...i think what works for me may not work for others (and vice versa)...the point is that you must make your own risk assessment and be confortable with your gear and your decisions...

@@PerezAdvent Sorry, I mistyped. I meant long hose, not SPG.

@@bloodymarvelous4790 all good then :)....not sure if you have seen, but i've made a video about the air integration with sidemount...with all options i've tested so far.... ua-cam.com/video/oDQIRGjQ_xI/v-deo.html

Glad it was helpful!

Hi @modigilyani, won't be able to tell specific about egypt, but here in the UK there are many places where you can get it, both Apeks and XS Scuba. XS Scuba is also available (or was) at Amazon (amzn.to/3FL7AtV) have you checked with a Apeks store in Egypt if they can order for you (if they don't have in stock)? uk.apeksdiving.com/en/stores

agreed. using the SPG when setting up the cylinders without the dive computer is easy...for the sunlight, I don't have issues checking the dive computer...at least not yet...but reading glasses is coming my way and it may change in the near future....

it is part of the PADI Open Water course (not sure about other agencies, but i assume it is). However, this skill is not something most new divers are willing to undertand or pay attention during the Open Water course. Also, not all instructors know how to teach this skill properly or they rush it.

@@PerezAdvent i did my open water in 2005 with PADI i don't remember having touching the subject but maybe i am wrong. I did my rescue in 2010, then it was part of the class.

i cannot comment when the change occur (assuming it was not there before)...but underwater navigation in the curriculum since i started teaching...so this could've been a change from when you've done. regardless, this skill is really important like you mentioned...but here in the UK with poor visibility waters, it is more important

@@PerezAdventsame here in Canada !

Thanks! glad you liked

Thank you! Glad you're enjoying the content.