Відео

You're welcome again, and you did understand correctly! David Riddle

You're welcome! David Riddle P.S. When was "dry-mounting" photo prints and wanted a "bleed" edge, I wasn't happy with the tearing of the print emulsion, backing paper, and mounting board leaving a ragged edge, so I placed a long mirror right below my paper shears fixed blade, and flipped the print over and down so the emulsion was on the bed of the paper shear. I was then able to easily see and align the white border of the print parallel to the shear blade, and when the shear arm was lowered and cut the bleed print, the edge was razor sharp, without any tearing what so ever! My mirror method, very likely will not work for your metal cutting treadle shear, but a video camera mounted on the floor with a lens focused on a portion of the shear blade, and a video monitor, lay the linoleum face down on the shear-bed, you will produce a much cleaner and sharper edge on the linoleum.

Thank you for your comment, and question, first I researched what "Tawny board" is (gray cardboard coated both sides with brown Kraft paper), and artist linoleum (linseed oil, natural rosin, wood flour, limestone, and jute backing). These materials will certainly be bonded with water-thin CA that is flooded around the perimeter edges, letting it soak-in, then cure it with accelerator. I have bonded cardboard together using CA many times with very stout results, and I believe tawny board and artist linoleum will definitely have the same results. My question is what method are you using to cut the tawny board and linoleum matrix, razor-knife or paper shear? David Riddle

Thank you for your help. I am cutting on a four foot , foot operated guillotine , normally used for thin sheet steel. I’m an engineer and recently had it sharpened. There is a locking blade which locks down on the piece before the blade cuts. I’m a bit nervous as much work already done and I don’t want anything moving / slipping. Thanks.

Thank you for your comment and question, no need to cap the tubing, cyanoacrylate will not cure when left open! If you need to transport the bottle and prevent it from leaking, or to put it into the refrigerator or freezer, just put a pin in the Teflon tubing, this also prevents the now ice-cold CA forming frost and curing within the Teflon tubing. Storing the BSI accelerator in the refrigerator or freezer is not necessary, it lasts for years. David Riddle

Thank you for your comment and question, I've only used BSI "insta-set" that is solvent based, there are several UA-cam videos describing DIY accelerators and there formulations. David Riddle

Thank you for your comment, accolades and, you're welcome! David Riddle

Thank you for your comment, and suggestion, I've also utilized CA and nylon/cotton thread to additionally reinforce joints like a matrix, much like rebar and concrete. In addition I've also utilized CA to prevent fraying of small diameter "wire-rope" so the sharp wires don't splay-out and poke me! Please see my invention video, and my other videos to see how I solved many problems. David Riddle

Thank you for your comment, and suggestion, whenever I screw into wood, I first run the screw in, than remove it, saturate the newly formed and fragile fiber wood threads fully with water-thin CA, let it soak-in till it disappears, then spray accelerator, and then screw it in to complete the job. I also do the same with machine screws into wood, drill a pilot hole, saturate with CA, accelerate the hole, screw in the machine tap and remove, re-saturate again with CA, let it soak-in, accelerate, "re-chase" the threads with the tap, and you will not believe how strong the threads are! David Riddle

Thank you for your comment, and suggestions, I also have used CA as a finish in woodworking, and also as a sanding sealer prior to painting wood. I've never gotten CA in my eye fortunately, and I certainly hope your eye has fully recovered. David Riddle

Thank you for your comment, and question, depending on the type of plastic your asking about, CA works wonderfully, but other plastics, it doesn't work as all! Feel-free to call me @ 818-314-7275 (pacific time) and I'll be glad to assist you on bonding various types of plastics together, and the specific methodologies involved. David Riddle

Thank you for your comment, and question, unfortunately the strap pin lug is a very high-stress area on a watch, and this is very likely why it broke! You didn't say whether the case is made of metal or plastic, and as such, I'd need to know the material before I could make a repair suggestion. Feel-free to call me @ 818-314-7275 (pacific time) and I'll be glad to assist you on repairing the watch. David Riddle

Thank you for your comment, and question, in the video I've shown how to bond a leather belt strap together using a "drill-vise", protected by a vinyl bag (CA doesn't stick to vinyl bag material), saturating the leather and the accelerating the CA. I've repaired several leather belts (including the leather belt on my machine lathe!) using this technique, but the leather becomes quite stiff at the joint and is not cosmetically pretty. Feel-free to call me @ 818-314-7275 (pacific time) and I'll be glad to assist you on bonding various types of leather together. David Riddle

Thank you for your comment, and question, since I only use water-thin CA, it never gets cured unless I want it to! The little tubes of thicker CA in my experience, always seem to cure after opening, even with refrigeration, that is why I only use BSI super-thin CA. David Riddle

@@HowToHomeLife Yes mine is very watery. Never tried the other stuff.

I suggest you try using the materials and techniques I've shown, and I believe your results and longevity of the CA will help you. @@paullelys161

Thank you for your comment, and question, apparently not, 8-months and 721,000+ views of this video should be your answer! Please see my invention video, and my other videos to see how I solved many problems. David Riddle

@ 🤣 so putting to glue on what you want to glue, then put on the accelerator, is the secret?? People post videos of people picking their nose and get 5 million views! That doesn’t mean it’s amazing or anything! It’s called “ Delusions of grandeur” 🤪

Thank you for your comment, and question, Ethyl 2-cyanoacrylate (ECA) is the primary active ingredient in most super glues. Simply click on the "more" in the description area, just below the video image, for the links to various sellers of the materials used in the video. David Riddle

Thank you for your comment, and question, simply click on the "more" in the description area, just below the video image, for the links to various sellers of the materials used in the video. David Riddle

Thank you for your comment, and question, I very rarely apply accelerator to one side of a joint, applying CA to both surfaces while already assembled, allows the CA to migrate deeply into micro surface irregularities and the porous wood grain that are always present, even on non-porous surfaces to form a strong bond, then I apply the accelerator. Applying accelerator to one surface and CA to the other does not allow the CA to get into these irregularities, it cures almost immediately forming a much weaker bond. David Riddle

Thank you for your comment, and question, in 40+ years of sucking up surplus CA back into the bottle from a clean surface, I've never had this happen! I would never suck-up Ca that was anywhere near an area accelerator was sprayed, or from a contaminated surface such as wood dust or other debris. The answer to your second question depends on the specific articles to be joined, there porosity, or lack of, material types, and cosmetics of the final joint. Feel-free to call me @ 818-314-7275 for additional details! David Riddle

Thank you for your comment and question, no need to cap the tubing, cyanoacrylate will not cure when left open! If you need to transport the bottle and prevent it from leaking, or to put it into the refrigerator or freezer, just put a pin in the Teflon tubing, this also prevents the now ice-cold CA forming frost and curing within the Teflon tubing. Storing the BSI accelerator in the refrigerator or freezer is not necessary, it lasts for years. David Riddle

Thank you for your comment, and you're welcome! Please see my invention video, and my other videos to see how I solved many problems. David Riddle

Thank you for your comment, and accelerator suggestion. Please see my invention video, and my other videos to see how I solved many problems. David Riddle

Thank you for your comment and question, the thin tubing is Teflon, not silicone. There is a link in the description area, or you can search the internet for: "24AWGTeflon tubing" (with the quotation marks), and you will find many suppliers. David Riddle

Thank you for your comment and correction, you are correct, "end grain to end grain in wood" is the weakest joint in woodworking! But if you use water-thin" CA and let it fully saturate into an end grain to end grain joint, and then use accelerator, I would suggest it will be far stronger than any regular wood glue. David Riddle

@HowToHomeLife thankyou

You're welcome! David Riddle@@d.k.1394

Thank you for your comment and question, no need to cap the tubing, cyanoacrylate will not cure when left open! If you need to transport the bottle and prevent it from leaking, or to put it into the refrigerator or freezer, just put a pin in the tubing, this also prevents the now ice-cold CA forming frost and curing within the Teflon tubing. Storing the BSI accelerator in the refrigerator or freezer is not necessary, it lasts for years. David Riddle

Thank you for your comment, and question, Jon and I took several takes of the 2x4 gluing and breaking sequence and since Jon did the editing, I didn't oversee the continuity of the sequence, but the results are what really matters in demonstrating the efficacy of using water-thin CA in woodworking! David Riddle

Thank you for your comment, accolades, and please see my other videos with more to come! David Riddle

Thank you for your comment, and question, I haven't built a billy bookcase but the "thin backing" you're talking about, is it wood or cardboard? This is a critical component in keeping the bookcase from "paralleling" and keeping it square and ridged, because of this I would definitely use water-thin CA to glue it in place in addition to the brad-nails. I would also recommend, that if it is cardboard, replace it with 1/8" thick "Tempered Hardboard" for additional rigidity, it is normally dark-brown in color, but it could be painted or is sometimes available as "Tempered melamine coated Hardboard" in white. If you do use the tempered hardboard, you will need to drill it with a small drill the same size as the brad-nails as it will split. David Riddle

Thank you for your comment, accolades, and you're welcome! Please see my invention video, and my other videos to see how I solved many problems. David Riddle

Thank you for your comment, accolades, and just to let you know, I was corrected many times by more knowledgeable individuals in the comments, that "percentage of hydrogen" is incorrect! The correct term is "potential of hydrogen". David Riddle

Thank you for your comment, accolades, and you're welcome! David Riddle

Thank you for your comment, accolades, and an interesting story. Please see my invention video, and my other videos to see how I solved many problems! David Riddle

Thank you for your comment, accolades, and you're welcome! Please see my invention video, and my other videos to see how I solved many problems. David Riddle

Thank you for your comment, and question, I very rarely apply accelerator to one side of a joint, applying CA to both surfaces allows the CA to migrate deeply into micro surface irregularities that are always present, even on non-porous surfaces to form a strong bond, then I apply the accelerator. Applying accelerator to one surface and CA to the other does not allow the CA to get into these irregularities, it cures almost immediately forming a much weaker bond. The solvent based accelerator I use is active for several minutes until it fully evaporates. David Riddle

Thank you for your comment, accolades, and you're welcome! Because water-thin CA has no surface tension, it saturates wood fibers ten-times deeper than traditional wood glues, bonding them together and forming a much stronger joint. 50+ years of finding solutions to everyday problems, and please see my invention video, and my other videos to see how I solved many problems. David Riddle

Thank you for your comment, and suggestion, in my 40+ years of using CA on wood joints, I've never encountered it becoming brittle. In fact, because water-thin CA has no surface tension, it saturates wood fibers ten-times deeper than traditional wood glues, bonding them together and forming a much stronger joint! Because any CA is not actually waterproof in wood joints for exterior applications, it is not recommended. David Riddle

Thank you for your comment, and question, in 40+ years of sucking up surplus CA back into the bottle from a clean surface, I've never had this happen! I would never suck-up Ca that was anywhere near an area accelerator was sprayed, or from a contaminated surface such as wood dust or other debris. David Riddle

Thank you for your comment and question, yes, after sanding with 80-grit paper to form a mechanical "tooth" on both surfaces, CA first requires an oil and wax free surface to bond properly, use a clean paper towel and acetone to remove all surface contamination. Feel-free to call me @ 818-314-7275 PDT, and I'll be glad to assist you in specific application of CA! David Riddle

Thank you for your comment, accolades, and in 50+ years of finding solutions to everyday problems. Please see my invention video, and my other videos to see how I solved many problems! David Riddle

Thank you for your comment, and suggestion, I do not shop on Amazon, all of my on-line purchases are on Ebay, all of the BSI products shown in my videos, are available there. David Riddle

Thank you for your comment, and question, CA was originally utilized to glue optical glass components together, and I've done the same many times. The key is cleanliness, put on clean rubber gloves, saturate a new paper towel with acetone and wipe both components and let air dry. Not knowing specifically what these glass components are you are trying to glue together, I'll be glad to have you call me @ 818-314-7275 (pacific time), in helping you! David Riddle

Thank you for your comment, accolades, humor, and thank you for the subscription! David Riddle

Thank you for your comment, and suggestion, I only use "solvent-based" accelerators because they rapidly evaporate and dry, "water-based" accelerators take much longer to evaporate and dry and can contaminate porous substrates. David Riddle

Thank you for your comment, and question, in 40+ years, I've never had a BSI CA bottle fail as you described, I certainly hope that your skin or other objects did not get glued together or damaged. Squeezing the bottle quite hard is how I check for a blocked Teflon tube, and my recommendation is to contact BSI via phone (805-466-1717) and ask for Charlie, explaining to him the failure. Also, you're welcome for the video! David Riddle

Thank you for your comment, accolades, and I'm glad that I've encouraged you to be inspired to seize opportunities as I have in my work! David Riddle