Відео

Very honest review. Just what we want to hear. A BIG THANKS.

Nice review. The EV DC charge module sits in/on the battery/inverter stack - which is not much good for EV charging unless the stack is located near where the car is parked, e.g. in a garage/car port.

This is just plainly not true... Who the hell told you that?

You did a good job

I bet the customer is wrapped 🤙🇦🇺

Nice work Jase, bet they're happy to know someone has the knowledge to get everything working properly, Happy New Year mate !! 🤠😎

Great video. Interesting points about the DC charger and the circuit breaker. Can both be deployed in a modern single phase installation?

Could you rerun this experiment (or the last disconnect under load one) with 10x38 fuses in suitable fuseholders to see if there is any benefit (or not) to using the old cartridge fuse method?

All current generation GM EVs support Vehicle to Home and it has been activated for use. At least in America, I don't know the status of the software in Australia.

Thanks for the video. Do you have a website with prices for solar + battery packages ? I'm looking for quotes for a new system install in Hamersley WA 6022 thanks

We use the Black Clenergy Kits on all jobs, as it always looks better than the silver mids & ends next to black panels these days. Good video mate - would love to do a zoom interview or in-person interview and compare notes on products in 2025 :) I am from Wollongong NSW. :)

Wow, Australia regulations are like years ahead of UK solar regulations.

Could they have a DC coupled battery and put all the clipped kws in there, bypassing the inverter?

Had an interesting thing happen today with my 3P Sigen. One of the Grid phases dropped out. The system went to off-grid mode, and was running out of battery. Power company restored the phase before battery ran out, but I was getting worried. I wonder what would have happened at battery depletion. I'm assuming power outage. What's stopping the Sigenstor from charging on the remaining phases? I think it's something that should be added to the firmware.

⁠ Nice install buddy, good job. If they are only adding a couple of small motors, wouldn’t it have been easier, cheaper, maybe even better to just keep as a single phase setup and either change motors or smaller single to 3 phase inverters aren’t that expensive now, or VSD’s to the circuitry for those couple of motors? As a single phase setup, couldn’t they be set up so two inverters act as generators to the main inverter and the last could call on either generator or mains supply to make up any extra needs? You would still get your 15+Kva of single phase with the advantage of less idle power when needs are low, under 4-5Kva the other two could be idle &/or off until called up by the main inverter. Andy’s ‘Off Grid Garage’ demonstrates this type of integration with a 5Kva Multiplus 2 and a Phoenix 3Kva inverter acting as a generator to the Multiplus unit. Will Prowse has done reviews on the Ruixu Batteries and swears by them for build quality, features & price compared to so many other brands, says he can’t fault them, that should give you some confidence, he is not a sell out. Good vid & info. Cheers

When it comes to off grid, non grid tie inverters, all high frequency, transformerless inverters are shifty. They offer much shorter life expectancies and far poorer surge capacities. If you want an inverter that's going to last, then buy a low frequency, transformer based inverter charger.

Hey mate, great build. I just built my first system with two multiplus 2 8000's. It wasn't too difficult, like you say keeping resistance as even as possible with equal cable lengths. I had to learn the programming in victron bus configuration, there is a video on the Victron professional website that explains parallel and 3 phase setup pretty well.

What about the powerplus installation detail of making sure the existing and new battery are with a certain voltage range before turning the new one on?

Carefully use vise grips to hold the dynabolt thread end without burring and back off the nut. Use a prybar to lever under the washer to apply more sleeve locking force and at the same time try unthreading the nut all the way to the end of the thread. Use a centre punch with sharp hit to release the dynabolt. Clamp the sleeve onto the bolt thread with vise grips and pull out.

Hi, good vid, review and info. I did see a comment from Sigenergy on another video where they said, they like you to put a small roof over the inverter covers you were complaining about to cover this vent area as insurance against leaf or sticks, dirt, bugs, etc, getting into that vented area on top of the system, I can see why now, and agree with your comments. Cheers

I am always looking for good videos on breakers and solar stuff. This was a great video. thanks! earned a new sub

CE printed right on them (Chinese Export). Crap

Hi , I've just upgraded to fttp , so a new router Asus , the blue light is on at all , I tried the tapping ( like I was knocking on a door ) and pairing mode did not activate. Do I have to shut down and restart the inverter ? , and should I do this at night when the solar panels are inactive ? Thanks for the video too.

I stick a hose in there and it rinses the calcium out

Of the 3 I have only 1 let go. This was when I pulled PV under load into 10KWH. Two $6 IGBT blew and it repaired fine. Mine don't have that much dust, but they have seen hundreds and hundreds of cycles of humidity and are basically mounted outdoors undercover. If you come across one used, they can be repaired, they do what they say they can do. Beware that they are hard on battery BMSs, so if you have a flaky BMS... These can exacerbate that and cause the BMS MOSFETs to short. Dally BMSs failed short on me while validating against these machines. This was while practicing sudden disconnects of battery and PV for safety checks. Overall I'm happy with Growatt for the Value

i wouldn't recommend housing in the sun or outside as heat can decrease the life span of the capacitors and dust tends to clog up the fans causing the mosfets to overheat and its fucks the entire system. i house my inverter indoors away from the elements and the heat.

Is this system automatic switch? I.e does it switch from on grid to off grid by itself and back if for example it detects that there is no power or unstable power on grid, so it switches to off grid supply and if the power is out on the battery, it either switches to on grid if there is power there or it directly inputs through the solar supply. Or if for example there is excessive energy after the battery is full? What does it do if it can no longer store that energy or send it into the grid?

The EV DC charger is too expensive. I can get 100k km of range on grid power for the price of the DC charger. That just doesn't make sense.

Amazing, thanks this helps me understand the power of DC loads

30 minutes? Try brevity. Brevity. Brevity. Brevity.

Great video - just for info the Kia EV's offer vehicle to load, although I've never tried this with my EV6.

Where are you. I have an issue with leak under solar …I am in qld Caloundra.

You’re seniority in the solar felid is you’re experience !

They dont even recommend solar DC isolators anymore. Too much risk of improper installation.

I have a 3 phase string inverter with 8kw of panels and a second 6kw system with Enphase iQ7As. Can I get a Sigenergy battery without decommissioning my existing inverters

I have a little PV installing company in Argentina. I have sent 4 back. I had no problem with replacements but it's very annoying I think I had good luck that all the failures happened within the 2 years period.

This is a massive problem in coastal areas!!!

I’ve heard really good things about them. Edit… oh bollox… those bolts!

If you go into settings and tools, then app settings, then notifications, you can select Go-off Grid as an alert

Stainless steel they luv binding up

Hi. What’s the largest single phase inverter they have currently?

I have four 545 watt panels with a voc of 49.6 each. All in series going into my Ecoflow Delta pro ultra. Twice now I have had two inline 30 amp MC4 fuses fail. The fuse itself is fine. The contacts that touch the fuse fail. I feel safer with no fuse at all.

Great video, very informative. I am looking at getting a single phase home battery system, tossing up between the new Powerwall 3 batteries and the Sigenergy system. What was the capacity of the inverter you installed? Must have been one of the larger units to handle so many panels. I think that system you installed with almost 20kW of solar will still have a lot of power exported with the 8kWh battery or even up to 24kWh. In NSW we are limited to just a 5kW inverter on single phase.

I'd be concerned about the escutcheon panel as well, and you don't want a fine because they supplied it with dodgy breakers.

A good very in-depth look. I disagree though the sungrow Sh15t(20,25) model inverters are three phase and do have UPS switchover of a slower 10 ms.

Have this setup now in Ireland and it brilliant if the grid go down I will still have power from the battery's well worth it.

Има някъква грешка в свързването.

Much prefer built in isolators

Generally speaking, unpolarized low-voltage DC MCBs and MCCBs (below 100VDC) are typically quite cheap, but once you get into higher voltage ratings you either have to spend a whole lot more money for an unpolarized DC breaker, or you have to use a (still cheap) polarized DC breaker. Polarized DC breakers contain magnets which direct the ARC into the arc chamber and must absolutely be wired correctly because the current direction matters in terms of directing the arc. The I.R. (interrupt rating) can be very low... solar panel strings produce very little current, so a breaker is perfectly acceptable *IF* it is wired correctly. There is a simple rule of thumb in terms of gauging DC breakers. You can use unpolarized DC breakers for low-voltage (e.g. battery DC busses) situations under 100VDC, and those breakers should generally be rated at least double your nominal maximum DC voltage. But any POLARIZED DC breaker you buy for the purposes of a solar disconnect had better be rated for 1000VDC or higher. Period, end of story. Do not use lower-rated polarized breakers for solar disconnects, ever. You can buy polarized 1000VDC breakers in MCB and MCCB formats for the purposes of implementing a solar string disconnect. Again, the interrupt rating (I.R.) is irrelevant for this application because solar panels cannot produce a whole lot of current. The best way to get it right is to buy a proper pre-wired combiner box that includes per-string fuses and a master breaker on the back-haul, even if you don't parallel any strings and even if the fuses are not needed. The "+" and "-" on polarized DC breakers are an indication of current direction, NOT POSITIVE OR NEGATIVE VOLTAGE. Current direction. The current direction goes from the "+" to the "-". There is no "line" or "load"... it might be marked, but it's not relevant. You must wire polarized DC breakers such that the current direction goes from "+" to "-". For battery DC wiring (under 100VDC), NEVER use a polarized breaker. The reason is because current can flow in either direction... there is no correct way to wire a polarized breaker in a battery system. Don't even use polarized breakers for situations, such as connecting up an inverter, where you know what the current direction will always be. Always use unpolarized DC breakers. -Matt

400vac does not equal 400vdc. AC breakers use the zero crossing point to extinguish the arc. DC does not have a zero crossing point a breaker or switch must be rated for or above the intended voltage and current. I think these are AC been re labeled as DC, I come to that conclusion as all relays and switches and relays I have come across always have a lower dc voltage rating.