Відео

@@jamesshort5768 it shouldn't matter really as the piston rings don't make a perfect seal anyway, so they will leak into the exhaust, crankcase and eventually into the inlet. So if you block the inlet and exhaust it should be fine. Also doing it this way also tests the crankcase seals

@ I’ve done a compression test of the piston and rings that come up at 137 PSI. I’m now want to check my crank seals. I was just wondering if it best to have it at BDC to test the crank seals etc

@@jamesshort5768 how did you test piston andr rings seperately? If the engine is complete like in my video, the crank seals are tested aswell

@@VintageGarageYT I did a compression test first using a gauge in the spark plug hole and kicked the bike over until the maxed out with throttle open. I then decided to do a leak down test and was pissing air out the power valve vent and opened oil filler cap and that was pressurised to is that normal?

@jamesshort5768 how much pressure did you put in? If air gets out through the oil filler cap, that means the crankseals are bad. Allthough if you put to much pressure in, that could mean you've just ruined them, but they would have to be checked to be sure. The compression test shows the state of your piston rings, leakdown test shows if you have an air leak from crankseals / head gasket / bottom gasket / ...

@@grahamwhittle1971 thanks! Really appreciate it!

@@jalins6 what do you consider here to be a hack job?

@@swagmanandy what is?

@@edwardlevett2459 really? What's different?

@ at least the cylinder, head and standard stator. Uk one as standard has two coils , your one uses radial coils in standard stator

@edwardlevett2459 I think you are talking about an RD50M these had indeed a newer ignition and different cylinder and head. This is a DX model with aluminium cylinder and head. The M has a cast iron cylinder and head.

How many gears does the Dx have ?

@edwardlevett2459 it's a 5 speed. I think the M also has 5 gears?

@@zemoney954 it's a 98cc Gillet engine. Slow as hell 🤣

@@janaarts6287 not saying u are lying but I have yet to see a stock bike doing 110. And 11hp for a stock engine also seems way to much

@@MrCairosp I've been using 10w40 from motul or castrol for a decade without any issues. The weight depends on your climate though. 10w40 is perfect for Belgian weather (not too hot, not too cold)

​@@VintageGarageYT Thank you this will help a lot. May God bless you

@@caio_0023 They really should! Just like Honda did with the Dax. Yamaha should do it with the rd

@@nielshermansen3299 yeah lights work fine. Even better than before. You do have to switch to a 12V system. One of the wires (I think it was yellow) is your supply. Connect that to the main wire of the loom and it should work as before

@@allahdaniel212 M27x1 is the thread size. This is the puller; www.jmpbparts.com/vliegwieltrekker-fs1.html

@@VintageGarageYT thank you so much! I’m trying to rebuild a RD60 and your videos are such a great resource and inspiration!! If I ever complete the project, I’ll send you some pics. I thinking of replacing the bearings, seals. I don’t know if I should hone my cylinder and refinish my piston. The piston pin is super tight. Biggest worry is me spending $$$ and then not able to start and seize it right away.

@@allahdaniel212 I'm glad my videos can help you! Best thing is to measure everything. Measure the cylinder,piston, set the ring gaps en start with a slightly rich mixture. It won't seize right away. You would really have to mess something up badly for it to seize right away.

@@VintageGarageYT I give up on the flywheel. I used two different puller but it wouldn’t come off. It’s like that thing is welded or something

@@allahdaniel212 they can be stuck on there sometimes. Try heating the inside part of the flywheel a little. And when the puller is under tension, give it some love taps with a rubber mallet. Dont heat it too much though, because that can destroy the magnets

@@rsabhadevajaggernauth509 Hi there. This should be it: 210-780-00-89-MBZ

@@jeremyv282 proficiat met je aankoop! Blij dat mijn video's kunnen helpen.! Neen, voor anderen werk ik niet aan brommers. Ik heb soms tijd te kort om aan mijn eigen brommers te werken, laat staan voor een ander 😅

@@VintageGarageYT ah jammer, je levert anders wel prachtig werk en weet wat je doet. Het beste nog en hopelijk kom je met nog wat gouden video's af 🤞😅

@@jeremyv282 bedankt! Zo'n reacties zijn altijd leuk. We zijn momenteel ons huis aan het verbouwen dus is het zeer druk, maar ik heb wel al wat leuke ideeën voor toekomstige videos. 😁

@@VintageGarageYT Veel succes met de verbouwingen! Chill, ik kijk er al naar uit ;)

@@Tizzy_p did you put the little bearing bal in front of the clutch pin back in?

@@VintageGarageYT yes mate 100% and I have literally just checked to see if it fell out definitely not is the answer I’ve just popped the seal and was trying to fish it out with a magnet but it’s not having it so gonna make a tea and start pulling it open I have feeling at the lever but it just won’t engage

@@Tizzy_p hmmm. Seems strange. Did you change anything to the clutch or worm gear? What was the reason for the rebuild? I would check everything individually. Does the worm gear reach it's full stroke when pulling the cable? (Perhaps the cable is too short?) The rod and ball are in place, so is the clutch plates in the correct order? Is the 2nd pushrod in place? Are the clutch springs too strong? Perhaps loosen the screws of the clutch cover, which hold the worm gear. If you pull the clutch, does the cover get pushed out?

@@VintageGarageYT the crank locked up due to the piston breaking down and falling in there, I only took the tension out the cable and popped it from the lever itself left it with the case it was working fine before was very sloppy at the lever but was working now it won’t engage, there was only 2 fiber plates 1 steel so can’t be wrong the same springs used I have changed a bolt but I highly doubt it’s that mate as same length etc as the other 3 bolts mate, the 2nd push rod is fitted into the outer basket and outside the nut, just stumped as everything is as it was mate but I genuinely appreciate all of your time and advice there’s a lot of pics and a vid on my Chanel of the bike if interested in looking your likely see how I stripped it but I’m going to tear it all back down shortly and see what I’ve missed or isn’t right lol

@@Tizzy_p yeah no worries. Wish I could give you a better answer, but without seeing it's hard to tell. It's totally possible though that it barely worked before, but for example the worm gear was on its last legs. Removing or disassembling caused it to die. Sometimes these things fail in a way it's hard to see or know where exactly

@@森三-o4t hi! Is the yoshimura exhaust the single? I do prefer the style of the 2 pipes

そうです　２本です。 ヨシムラ持ってますが　排気音大きいのでので今は　ノーマルです。 パワーでます。

@@森三-o4t thats great! I think this bike is setup pretty good from the factory 👌

@@dumbluck6180 I didnt know some coppers harden instead of soften. Never experienced that. I wonder which kind does that.

​@@VintageGarageYT Thata called tempering, its good to temper copper seal before installing it, you get much better sealing because its softer.

@@Adriaan-bb6kv they are very basic engines and it's totally doable to do it yourself with some basic tools. Here are the seal and bearing sets: Bearingset: www.jmpbparts.com/lagerset-yamaha-dt-rd-ty.html Seal set: www.jmpbparts.com/keerringset-yamaha-dt-rd-5-versnellingen.html

@@VintageGarageYT thank you

@@VintageGarageYT I see now they don't ship to SA. I wonder if my local Yamaha dealer will have the seals.

@@Adriaan-bb6kv oh they don't? I always thought they ship worldwide.

@@Adriaan-bb6kv compression should be minimum 90psi on a hot engine. Airscrew setting stock is 2 turns out from completely in. That should be a good starting point. Is the plug wet when trying to start it? If not it's not getting fuel

@@VintageGarageYT yes the plug is wet. Will check compression thx. I feel like it should start but it don't want to. Thx for your suggestions

@@Adriaan-bb6kv you can try add a little bit of 2 stroke oil in the cylinder through the spark plug hole. That will temporarily boost compression. If it starts then, then you know the rest should be ok

@@Adriaan-bb6kv the block itself should be the same indeed. You can find bearing and sealkits at JMPB. Definitely let them know I sent you!

@@brucepietro6046 the easy fixes are the best fixes! That's a great find by the way! The times where you could get mopeds for cheap prices are long gone here. Everyone thinks they have gold on their hands and want top dollar. Even for shitty non running examples 😕

@@brucepietro6046 yeah the fuel pump is quite literally the heart of these mopeds. I got it running on both of my solexes and they're still running strong actually. Using quality fuel also makes a huge difference

@@karelvanspengen564 ok 🤣

@@Rusty_E28 With pleasure! Glad I could help 😁

@@rikardbjork3491 not sure what it's called actually, but it's used to keep the membrane from pulling to far in/out.

Hi Rikard. I just had another look, this is the part you need: solexmarkt.com/Plastic-seating-Solex-fuel-pump

@@hansturpyn5455 Yeah I've read about it and wanted to try it aswell. Did you print the fuel pump membrane?

I see. I don't the weight will be that far off. I would have to put them on the scales to be 100% sure though

I had to look it up, never heard of it, but it looks cool! 🤣

@@VintageGarageYT 3 gears transmision

@@BS3S Awesome!

Haha yes I've done that as well before 🤣. But you need to have access with the angle grinder of course! I also have a fs1 2RT 😉

Glad I could help! 😁

I recently received the article from another follower with those tests. Very interesting article! As far as I remember the ignition was set correctly, but later on I swapped it for an HPI ignition. Recently though the piston destroyed itself so it no longer runs, sadly enough. I was still looking for the missing power. Also these were short acceleration tests doing a 400m sprint, not a top speed run. It did go 75-80 when going all out on a long road

99% of them only go 25 km/h which is 15mph. Where do you get that "officially" from?

Classic 2 stroke! 🥰

Hi there. This should be it: 210-780-00-89-MBZ

Thank you!

Good work mate.

​@@jarrydhouston3879Thanks!

It's a speed test, trying to be as fast as possible 😅

80-85 kmh completely stock

It is a true engineering marvel this bike!

In the meantime I did find some small things that could've been improved and some of them did help. The biggest one being swapping the mikuni carb for a dellorto. I have big suspicion the original carb has been tampered with. I'm suspecting the needle and the emulsion tube don't match. I have some new carbs to test, but I'm making some plans to actually make my own small dyno so I can properly test it! But I'm lacking some time currently. I'm slowly gathering parts and ideas to complete it 😁

The little ink cartridges for refillable pens have a little plastic ball in them. It's one of those balls you need

www.pennstateind.com/mm5/graphics/00000001/PK10-FPR.jpg These

@@VintageGarageYT Thank you very much.

​@@VintageGarageYT I think I found a 60 pack of standard international refills with a 2.6 bore end. That would make sense if the ball is 2.7mm. I think I'll go ahead and order them. I have 2 impex solexs that I'm going to do rebuilds on as soon as my parts kits arrive. One is more sluggish than the other so I'm going to be rebuilding the carbs and at least cleaning the fuel pumps and want to be sure I have an extra set of balls just in case.

@@PhonePhone-sf8te That's a good call. Never hurts to have some spares!

Can't recall. It's a tube I had laying around from a car engine rebuild. Popular one you can look for is yamabond

Yeah it went pretty wel. I think it ran a bit better than my other one

Thank you! Much appreciated! Yeah the italian bikes are something different 😅. You think a set of Mikuni's would be better? I will have a look around for some. Although a fun bike, the japanese bikes are just better I think 😅

@VintageGarageYT early gt250 has 26mm carbs. The last of the gt250 (A,B,C models) have 28mm carbs, these were the 32hp bikes. Just check the diameter of the carb inlets to the engine. Much more spares available for the Mikuni especially in the Netherlands. Thanks for your reply and a big thumbs up for the Benelli.

@@overlandworld2253 Thank you! Will definitely have a look! Parts for these bikes are available at a German supplier, I bought a new carb housing there last summer, cause one of mine was completely messed up. I also rebuilt them and the bike responds better. Will measure them up and perhaps look for one size up.

ah ok. I watched until the end. lol. Now I see about the misfiring.

@@PauldelRosario Hi there! The YB1 is I think a later model, based on the fs1. I even think you can get them here with a 4 stroke engine. The clutch is indeed a weak point on these engines, what kind of problems do you have?

Thanks for the reply. I JUST picked up a used one today. I really didn't need much to press the clutch lever. Very similar to your video. The lever was close to the hand grip. I bought this to learn how to ride a manual transmission bike as I'm used to riding Super Cubs. I forgot to press the clutch once going from 2nd to 3rd, and it kind of engaged, so I thought it was weird. That's when I started check UA-cam for videos. Now, the clutch lever is "usual" (I also adjusted from the handle bars), but now I hear this light screeching sound. Too tight somewhere? Clutch plates?? I don't remember hearing it, but I could be wrong. I watched your other video too and you said it was slipping. As this is the first time for me to ride a manual bike, I really don't know what that feels like, so it's a learning curve for me. As it was already night here in Tokyo, and I don't have a garage, I'll check this out tomorrow morning. BTW, mine is this 1996 model www.bikebros.co.jp/catalog/2/92_1/#spec_top Helpful channel you've got and nice collection of bikes. @@VintageGarageYT

Will open up the side of the engine tomorrow and take a peek at the spring and worm screw.

@@PauldelRosario Thanks man! Much appreciated! A slipping clutch is easy to tell this way: when in 3rd or 4th at low rpm, fully open the throttle and pull through the gear. If the engine starts going up in rpm but the speed stays the same, thats a slipping clutch. Screeching noises are also not normal. Could be clutch adjustment indeed. They are very fidly to get right 😅

Glad I could help!

Yeah I came across some restricted ones. Luckily they are pretty easy to derestrict

Yeah I've heard a lot of stories about the fantics, need to get a hold of one!

Awesome thanks! We should do something together perhaps!