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aliexpress if I remember correct

I'd subscribe to your logic. if you tighten it with fully unloaded suspension, you won't reach normal ride height since the bushing is working against gravity pushing the car up. as to how much that is.. prolly just couple mills but it'll end the bushing rather quickly. I pushed the wheel up to torque.

@@BONDGarage ya. I’m getting about an inch more when pushing up on the suspension when the bolt is loose. I have torqued the swivel portion. Makes sense since the arm is new and needs to settle. Figure that one inch is fine and I can torque. I don’t think I’ll room to get a breaker bar when the wheel is on the ground

it is but at this point it's actually within my comfort zone. at least with BMW I'm familiar and with realoem and a good manual for torque specs it's not that scary. there's something bigger you might have seen in the background which is pushing me a lot more.

I did but it wouldn't give me enough room to take it out. that attempt didn't make the final cut tough.

@@BONDGarage I see I was able to do it. I need your help can't remove the sub frame. I see the 2 bolts in the back to remove but don't see the bolts in the front to remove it. Can you help to understand this and I can explain how I did it.

@@Tony-jv5pr I wouldn't and didn't touch the subframe. you loosen that thing, you'll have to align your wheels. just support the engine and remove the engine mount and arm like I did. you'll have to feel for the bolts that connect the arm to the block though. they'r tucked in.

@@BONDGarage OK I feel you, I don't understand because I'm changing my oil pan gasket that's why I need to remove it.

@@Tony-jv5pr oh I see. in that case it'll have to come out. will have to do that somewhen soon too.

Thank you!! there've been so many small issues. can't wait to tackle the big projects again. still not finished with this tank

yes, normal position makes sense and 250Nm sounds roughly like 100Nm + 90 degree. It definitely needs some leverage to open it in the first place.

​@@BONDGarage thank you! Second broken rear spring in 6 years and want to make sure I do it 100%. Trying bilstein B4 and b3 this time 👍

good question. I've never checked since I've always run it with AC anyway. but you should be able to code that function off with a good enough tool.

absolutely

geez. you might need to double stack then 😂

the weight difference is about what you'd expect. coming from the smaller 535i brakes here in the US it's notable heavier. from the bigger 550 brakes probably barely noticeable. feeling-wise, the first thing I've noticed were the braided lines. so much better pedal feel. they also have a lot more initial bite. can be somewhat annoying around town when coming to a stop. I'm no longer able to stop without jerk. but that's the only downside. absolutely love em! oh yea and the spray paint is meh. better to powder coat them.

@@BONDGarage thanks for the response, still not sure about these or the g12 calipers, but do appreciate the input!

@@mattbattinieri6269 yea I haven't considered those when swapping mine. but from what I've read, the pads won't be a perfect fit like with the alpinas. but then again those are single piston and they dust like nothing I've seen before. it's not all just happiness

@@mattbattinieri6269 what do the forums say about a G12 swap? any issues or restrictions you need to look out for? look-wise I'd go for the newer M-perf caliper but also depends on budget.

@@BONDGarage so i ended up ordering the g12 brake calipers and from what i understand from the vids online and a facebook post is the it bolts up same at f01 it just takes a few extra adjustments and a 4.5-5mm spacer instead. I got them delivered today and even the box they were in felt so much lighter than when i ordered the f01 alpina ones

that's a direct fit?

​@BONDGarage i haven't installed it yet but it looks like it

@@Fenix66687 I mean parts bin is a thing but that's a new extend to me. please keep me posted. that's pretty interesting

@BONDGarage they claim direct fit on both website of the seller and motorad website. However, I don't know if any coding required. I got it because it was a great discount. I'll update after installation but it will not be soon)

@@Fenix66687 no coding. just bleeding as far as I know.

needs a detail though. has been neglected lately

you've went back and double checked you're work 3 times before you started looking for the problem elsewhere, right? been there 😄

@@BONDGarage i actually had a warning light for almost 2 years 😂

@@ThePr0biker 😂guess you gave up on it but it kept bothering you. man I couldn't even stand it for a week! would annoy the crap out of me. glad you don't need to endure this any longer 😂

should work. but might get thrown away accidentally 😅

if you just move the lines around no. meaning you disconnect them from any brakes that hold them. but if you open the system then yes, you'll have to recharge it.

I've made it a rule to replace the hardware with the parts. in all honestly, probably change more than I need to. but if you have winter I'd strongly recommend changing to reset the corrosion timer.

it is. and I'm about to do it again. this time also the smaller bushings at about 115k miles.

the LEDs you won't regret. go for it! the tint is fun too but I left it on too long. to quote another comment, it was a "royal pain" to remove. loved the look though and might do it again. I used Vivid light smoke with hex something air release tech. you'll find it on amazon.

Thank you

you think so?

🤣🤣 made my day

it is. and requires some experience

I did. new module and new pump plus coding.

Glad it helped

works. of course you need to make sure your container isn't running out of fluid.

I believe it's the GM 5 speed. I'm not aware of any temperature specifics (like the ZF8 gearboxes have it)

I mean it's no Toyota but then it also doesn't drive like one. I've had a lemon F15 though. dealer put $20k into it fixing it under warranty but still couldn't make it right. brand bought it back. F10 and N55 do have some known issues (diff bushings, OFHG, valve cover and later on oil pan) but other than it's pretty solid and has good performance. and those things are rubber and seals so they will cause problems with age in any car. gotta admit though that this AC compressor surprised me. that one is out of the ordinary.

forgot how long I have them but they're still going strong. longevity was also on my concern list but for the price it's alright

@@BONDGarage Thanks for replying did you have to code the led lights Or just plug and play

if it's from a donor with the same engine in the same iteration, then yes. not sure if a facelift version will work on a pre-facelift but if you stay within the same year range it should work. but there's no guarantee that the module works properly. tried a used one (same engine, same year), improved the issue but the old module damaged the pump and then the pump damaged the new used module. had to replace it all over again..

It worked, plug and play , no issues so far , no more fuel supply error code!

I had already replaced the pump before the module thank goodness

@@deltakilo32 what year is your car and what year module did you put in?

gerne

can't use bimmercode on this generation tho. but used different software to change the setting in the LCM

sounds just like what happened here before the diff gave out