Відео

Because my mothers name starts with a Z that is pronounced as a Zee not Zed, so from an early age I have preferred the phonetic pronunciation over the adopted French word zède for Z.

are you using it in the syntax of both being in PROBE_CALIBRATE and defining it as a value such as "TESTZ Z= -5" to lower z by 5mm, as I believe running just the command TESTZ on it own will not actually do anything but throw an error.

That is a good question. It will save the offset value inside the printer.cfg file stored on the Pi, you can also look up the value by opening the printer.cfg file from within Fluidd and scrolling to the bottom of the file where you will see a section of green text saying "SAVE-CONFIG" and "DO NOT EDIT THIS BLOCK OR BELOW. The contents are auto-generated." and you can see the line: [probe] z_offset = Klipper will always reference theses value when it boots up, and every time you hit the SAVE CONFIG button it will update that section with the new values, be that a Z offset, PID Values, or Bed Mesh.

@@PigeonPrint thanks very much for answering my question. I see the section of configuration you mentioned in printer.cfg file. That's great. This seems more flexible than Marlin. Thanks again

Config file are agonist to the hardware you are running Klipper on but are dependent on the model of printer you are using. check out this link for example printer config files for a bunch of 3D printers github.com/Klipper3d/klipper/tree/master/config

40x40cm usable area

are u using neptune 4 or a qidi machine?

What part are you stuck on, getting to the web interface or setting the offset in the web interface?

Have a look in you printer.cfg file at the bottom (after where it tells you not to edit) and make sure it has you new Z offset saved in there, and has commented out your old one with a # further up in the config under [probe]

@@PigeonPrint I found the issue, in fact I just needed to do the Z offset before the bed mesh, and it worked.

Really good to hear it helped!

oh my!

@@PigeonPrint Yea bro you had me over extruding, had to adjust my z offset and complete a filament change.

@@genisphyla That can happen if you have a large, hot nozzle...

@@PigeonPrint sure can bro, sometimes it can lead to thermal runaway and I have to patch my firmware in a hurry!

Yes, as long as there is power the cooling fan for the stepper drivers will be on.

No problem, really glad to hear it helped!

Thank you! I'm the same, very much a visual learner.

Thank you for the kind words. Really glad to hear it helped!

Evet. işte yaptıkları şey, ancak elbette başka seçenekler de var, bu sadece başka bir iş mili yuvası satın almak veya yapmak anlamına gelebilir. anolexcnc.com/collections/cnc-accessories/products/10w-optical-power-laser-module-with-air-assistance

After. So Z offset first, then Screw tilt second 👍

Thank you, really good to hear it helped!

When ever you change your nozzle to a new one or switch between 2 types, other than that you should be good!

Hi, you need to do something called SSH. if you're on windows there is a program called Putty you can install and then you just put in the IP address of your pi that kipper is installed on and it will prompt you for your user name and password used to set up Klipper, then it will open a screen "terminal" that will be remotely connected to the Pi. If you are using a 3D printer that came with Klipper installed then you will need to find the default username and password. If you run into any problems, just post back and will try and help.

I tend not to when setting up a probe for the first time. I know the internet will tell you that you need to due to thermal expansion, but as the probe will account from the coefficient of thermal expansion on the bed (usually aluminum) we can discount that as a factor, and that leave us with the nozzle, (usually Brass) that is less then a 1 cm cubed block, but as 1cm makes the math is easier, we are looking at approximately 0.038mm expansion: ΔL= 10mm × 19 × 1 parts per million per °C × 200°C ΔL= 10mm × 19 × 1 parts per million per °C × 200°C ΔL= 10mm × 0.0038mm ΔL= 0.038mm I think this is a small enough deflection to be able to then go on and adjust as needed for layer high, bed suffice type and filament type. So, I'm in the camp of do it with or without heated bed an nozzle, your going to be fine ether way.

Sorry, I don.t know enough about Eledoo's implementation of Klipper to be much help. could be wroth making a post on the GitHub below, the devs over there are very helpful.

Well that depends on what you are running Klipper on. Can you give me any more information on your setup so I can help?

@@PigeonPrint I have a neptune 4 pro that has been running perfectly since I got it from Pre order. Overnight it forgot where it's z-axis was. So I installed the the firmware updates for the board and the UI. Thoroughly cleaned the plate and dried it. I also leveled very carefully, twice. Now I am having first layer adhesion issues so I went to 220C as it's PLA and 25mm/s for first layer. I'm using Orca so I have a lot of options, what type of pattern(rectillinear, monotonic, concentric, archemedes spiral) should i use for the various layers, there's no description of which work better for what.

@@shanepatrick4534 For the Neptune 4 Pro you can set the offset through the touch screen leveling menu. Here you can put a bit of paper under the nozzle and adjust to where the nozzle starts gripping the paper, I like to set it to where the paper is easy to pull, but hard to push towards the nozzle. then you can do a bed level with the "auxiliary" setting that will let you turn the bed screws to get the bed level (using the paper method in each corner. once you have done that you an do an "automatic" level mesh and it will probe the bed all across it and update kipper with the new mesh and z offset. (but connecting it to your network and getting direct access to Klipper is a lot faster). I always use monotonic, as it give me better top and bottom faces.

@@PigeonPrint Thanks for the info, the people on reddit were not helpful in any meaningful way. I am gettin decent first layers having messed with the z axis quite a bit, now I am printing bases for warhammer fantasy and am having the corners of the bases lift so I'm trying brims and the glue stick that came with the printer.

@@shanepatrick4534 if you dont have any luck with the glue, you could try two other options, make the z offset just a little bit lower so the first layers squish into the bed better, or cleaning your bed with some isopropyl alcohol as things like oils from your hand can build up and stop the plastic from sticking (but most the time a brim will fix things!) If you have any other issues free free to message me!

Ok I found out the problem I was having - in the video it shows you importing an Eagle .pcb file as a new project which would only import the PCB file and not the schematic. If however you choose to import the Eagle .sch file then KiCad will import both the PCB and schematic into the project.

Hi, I have not had an issue with KiCad bring in schematic with symbols from Eagle file as long as the .brd and .sch files are in the same folder and imported as a new project. If you just need the schematic, you can open KiCad Schematic Editor, click File, click Import non KiCad Schematic and pick the .sch file from your computer. If your still having issues feel free to link me the files and I will take a look.

First thing I would recommend is putting QUERY_PROBE in the console to check if Klipper is reading the probe as triggered and if it is there is most likely an issue with the wring, or the way the probe is set up in the printer.cfg. Possibly the pin would need inverting (you can do this with putting a ^ infront of the pin number, for example "pin: ^P1.28"

Thank you very much for the kind words, and I can totally see your point.....But...😊 There being a 25% price difference between the Reno and Pro aside. I think its a clear attempt at taking market share away from the Fox Alien 4040-XE and getting customers into the SainSmart Eco system, a common tactic in business. I totally understand how some people would rather have seen them working on other products like the Pro extension kit.

Very well put!

@@PigeonPrint 👍👍

If you keep in mind V wheels and belts are going to need replacing every now and then I don't think there is much to go wrong, belt drive its a very simple system that has been used for a long time, but no I would not recommended for an industrial setting, very much a hobby or small business machine.

Thank you for the kind words, and taking the time to wach!

Second!!!!

@@PigeonPrint you always first, you legend. Good job on the presentation.

Thank you for the kind words, hope it helped!

Hello mate, they have a Amazon store in the UK but look like they only have the AnoleX 3030-Evo Pro in stock at the moment (same machine but larger stepper motors and larger 300x300mm bed).

@@PigeonPrint just checked the WS and they have the 4030 evo ultra, this will be perfect for me work area and overall size, as i am limited to space!@ thanks for quick response!! great video by the way new subbie here!

@@PandorusFightStick Thank, much appreciated! Yes, the 4030 is such a sweet spot size for people with limited space and they added ball-screws and liner rails for the Y, so you get a super ridged machine. Wifi is really handy too as you can keep your laptop out of the way of dust or chips!

​@@PigeonPrint been looking for a while for this this exact spec cnc machine!! was gonna build my own, but found your video. the 4030 is exactly what i wanted , cannot wait for it to arrive !! thanks and looking forward for some new content from you!

@@PandorusFightStick If you run into any issues or have any questions, feel free to give me a shout and I will try and help. got a few CNC videos in the works, filming a into to using CAM in Fusion 360 and milling PCBs at the moment.

Thank you. Really glad to hear it worked!

😀Thank you for the kind words!