Відео

haha even worse mistakes were made in the second video. Wish you luck on the tracking down the noises!

sorry my video is not very as a step by step guide. I'd recommend you look up how to replace a timing chain on F150 3.5 Ecoboost. The timing components are identical.

BD Diesel 😁 there are more videos on the turbo build on my Channel where you can see more detail what I'm doing with this build

comments like this keep me going, thanks for the support!

yea it's packaged very well in there :) One thing I didn't like about all of the turbo kits is how much exhaust piping gets packed under the hood. In this configuration the exhaust is not much different from stock, and leaves all of the free space upfront.

haha parking garage has it's advantages, Because my parking space is 4th level underground, it's not cold in the winter and pretty cool in the summer.

Thanks for the support! I think I'm more than half way there on the build, pretty sure most difficult parts are over. But I also have lot of videos I still need to finish editing and upload.

@@aimless-drifter I also have a 3.7 and the truth is that I want to see how you finish the project, to see what it is capable of and see if it can inspire me to do it. Will wait to see the other videos

@@gaalvez hell ya brother! can't promise that you'll get inspired. Watching me you might actually get discouraged haha. As I struggle a lot and my goals are low. If you want to know the limits of single turbo 3.7 Cyclone check out Auto Mafia Racing channel. I think they were getting over 500 WHP on stock motors. And Blew up at least 1 motor that was pushing 650 whp on stock internals?

@@aimless-drifter I understand the struggle to install those mods, that's why I follow you, I have installed things but nothing major, headers, axle back, tune, replaced suspension parts, etc. and if I follow the mafia racing channel, in fact I have the repro from them.

I did a full review of all of the features. At 19:40 in this video you can see the AC controls ua-cam.com/video/nG7A19W9cco/v-deo.htmlsi=DWaKDHq2XqP5bBJq&t=1179

you could try do a factory reset and then try to update apps? But it could make things worse.

@@aimless-drifter yeah I thought the same thing I just said fuck it just junk it, can’t buy shit anymore everything is garbage and a scam 😢 paid $700 for it too never again fuck

@@Loveroflife5.0. yea I feel the same way sometimes. Products from Aliexpress used to be a lot better. Now it's a straight up gamble between buggy product and scams. I'd recommend Dynavin N7, it's an American Product

100% agree, my oil pan didn't even seal. if I was to do this again I would get a strut bar to hoist the engine up, a service manual calls for a support bar. I'd also be a lot less scared of the engine falling off the jack stand.

@@aimless-drifter I used a engine hoist , I was still cautious of it falling

yea I was not prepared for the job. My current project is fabricating stainless steel exhaust and I've been working on it for the past 4 months... Well I was also learning to weld

It was a great job! you try to do this job on your back on the floor .Great job you did there!

sorry, I can't say that I'm familiar with such things. My first guess was that there is a warped rotor and a caliper that gets seized up when hot, and gets pushed back by warped rotor upon acceleration. BUT if the dealer had checked brakes they would have notice a seized caliper or a warped rotor... so maybe there is something loose behind the cash that get's clunky once in a while?

haha yea I do have the passenger side vent pointed towards me as well. But the flow is not optimal. At least in California you're allowed to have tinted windows

omg really? I've learned this stuff from owning a bunch of cars with suspension issues, and I also though my methods are a bit aggressive 😆 Also a bit surprised this video is getting as many views as it does haha 😅

yea I thought about and decided that chances of the timing chain failure because of age is lower than chances of valve train failure because of improper installation 😅 if this was Ford 3.5 V6 I would do the chain tho

hey I've added my e-mail address to the video description just now. send me an e-mail and I'll reply with the STL file

I guess you're referring to the part around 2:30 yea I could have set up the camera and lights in a better place for that shot. 😅 Also half the time I was struggling to remove water pump pulley, which is not necessary to remove for the timing cover to be removed. 😆 If you want to see more in depth video on how to remove the timing cover I'd recommend searching for "Timing chain job for 3.5 ecoboost F150" it's the same timing cover

yea I had no idea what I was buying but luckily it all worked out 😄

sure will do, it will probably be some time mid next week tho. I'm away. Can you send me DM on instagram with your e-mail

@ijiaru

or send me an e-mail at ikeraxx@gmail.com and I will reply with STLs

sorry for late reply 😅 I've just added my e-mail address to the video description. send me an e-mail and I'll reply with the STL file

Send you an email :) thanks for your help

@@davidcostea3636 I didn't receive any e-mails 😬

Sended a new one 😇 thanks

@@davidcostea3636 files sent 🙂👍 I've also attached a link to the video description.

haha you got me. but this videos were taking on a camping trip. you can check out my instagram @ijiaru

in my videos you might hear me say repeatedly that I'm not a mechanic and I'm learning as I go. Also I have limited tools and equipment. If you have suggestion on how to do this job better, please share as other people would probably want to know also. 🙂

@@aimless-drifter start by loosening the lug nuts with the tires still on the ground 😂

What was wrong ?STOP being mean to PEOPLE!

@@AllKindsofGainz SO WHAT ,USE AN IMPACT GUN BIG DEAL!

it has been over 8 months and there are no leaks yet. 😋 The timing cover, oil pan, front main seal and valve cover seals all holding fine. I thought for sure my valve covers would leak as the old gasket was very hard, brittle and I have cracked it slightly in on place. I have bought a replacement right away but still haven't installed it. I think the engines in PIUs are mounted transversely, I think it has a slightly different timing cover design and there might threaded holes in the timing cover where you can screw in bolts to pry off the timing cover. try to search for "ford 3.5 ,3.7 timing chain cover removal tip" video on youtube and see if it applies to you.

sorry forgot to reply earlier 😅 yes the radio buttons are backlit, BUT they are backlit in white not blue unlike the rest of the Ford Interior backlight color

yes you can change the image of a car and you can change the image of the background behind the car 😋

Cool! Thank you I will put my pp from this profile as the wallpaper. I like your vlogs, keep it up! :)

@@Cudberto haha thanks for the support! comments like this keep me going 😁 sorry there hasn't been many videos uploaded lately 😅 My other car (Ford Escape) broke down and I'm trying to fix it. After that I'll get back to working on the Turbo build

10:57 yes defiantly, my jack is so bad it can't hold the car up for more than 10 sec 😂 not sure if it's a safety feature or a defect 😅

@@aimless-drifter good to know I didn't see part two entil later on.I saw then you were using jack stands.

actually I can't take any credit for this video. My GF shot it and edited it on iPhone 11. I'm trying to learn from her 😅

here is a full in depth review of all of the features 😋 ua-cam.com/video/nG7A19W9cco/v-deo.html but that video is no less of a joke than this one 😂

omg do you actually have a manual for this head unit 😮

@@aimless-drifter No, I don't have a manual, but I recently bought a head unit for my car that had those same wires next to the video cable, and on the aliexpress listing description it is said that they are the Wifi Antenna and Bluetooth Signal Amplifier, I don't plan to use them but i guess you can use them if you want.

@@tiago.lajas.00 my wifi antenna is already connected with screw-in-antenna-connector 😅

the original listing for the camera is gone. But here is a different listing of what seems to be the same camera 😀 www.ebay.ca/itm/394231233336 Also have you seen the video of the backup camera install? Also on my channel

let me know if you can't see the link above. Sometimes comments with links get blocked by youTube. I would only recommend this unit if you only care about the unit being android based with wide range of apps support, Google Maps, VLC Player, Torque OBD, TrackAddict by HP Tuner, ect, or wireless Apple CarPlay with a Big Screen. These features make this unit worth it, IMO. If I didn't care about the apps, I would have chosen Dynavin N8 unit. Despite aliexpress unit having a bigger screen, I think Dynavin N8 looks better and functions better too, from looking at reviews. I've never used Dynavin units myself. Are android apps important to you or do you use Apple CarPlay? Also I don't have steering wheel volume buttons, but I've heard that they would work with this unit. As steering wheel buttons send a can-bus code and this unit is make to function over can-bus.

Thank you for the support 😄

Thanks you for the support 😁

thank you for the support! yes the Twin-Turbo build is still happening! I know the build is going kinda slow 😑 the turbos that I've got are water cooled, I'm currently working on tapping into coolant system.

thanks again 🙂comments like these keep me going haha. I don't know if I've explained in the video but the turbos that I've bought come with huge oil supply lines like 1/4" ID without any restrictors. so I was concerned if about my engine's oil pressure when the turbos get installed. For that reason I wanted to install oil pressure gauge and get some baseline oil pressure values and hopefully not deviate too far once when the oil feed lines and the turbos get installed.

awesome 😃 hopefully it works well for you

haha it was working really well. It was a really powerful A/C for such a small room 😆 and it was also really REALLY loud on the balcony... so I've removed and sold it 😅 because I was afraid neighbors would get annoyed

😂true, but still I try to make sure that nobody is watching even when I'm manhandling my own car

yes the sway bar clunk is totally gone! I still do have some minor clicking sound coming from the steering rack. But other than that, clunkeness is gone.

Thanks for the support 😀 I don't know if I've mentioned in the video but, don't use jumper/booster cables as battery relocation cable. Buy a welding ground wire instead!

oooh does the Ford instruction say to do that on the sway bar links as well? I know on hte control arms the bolt sleeve and bushing are fused together, that why when tighten the bolts on the control arm the control arm will swing back to it's neutral position if moved. And if the neutral position of the control arm is not the neutral position of the suspension the rubber bushing will be under stress constantly and will tear prematurely. On a sway bar link the bushing is not fused to the sway bar and is able to rotate 360 deg, and on the other end the bolt sleeve didn't look like it was fused to the rubber ether on the Moog links that I've got... Also my suspension is loaded in a sense that the suspension springs and shocks are compressed and supporting the weight of hte car (might not be level tho)... the suspension would be "unloaded" if I had the car jacked up on the body with springs uncompressed... But anyway I'm not a mechanic 😋 the people who wrote the manual are smarter than me.

haha before you replace the tie rods test them~ lift the tie off the ground and try to wiggle the tire by hand. If you have a lot of play / slop left to right than the tie rod ends could be bad if you have pay from top to bottom than lower ball joint is bad.

@@aimless-drifter lower ball joint as in lower control arm ball joint??

@@shsk8880 yes, if you have play in the wheel when rocking it in and out from top and bottom, it is most likely you have a worn out ball join in a lower control arms. If you have plan in all directions (left - right and top - bottom) it also could be the wheel bearing, but i think that is rare.

No, I haven't tried to mess with high beams yet. But I think the solution should be simple, just connect the wire that opens up the reflector to the wire that powers the bulb thru a diode. that way whenever the reflector is powered to open it will also power the bulb. The diode is there so that when you have low beams on it doesn't open the reflector... At least that's what I think to try when I get around to it

haha yea I'm planning to replace the taillights, but also trying to focus majority of the time on the turbo related stuff. 😅