Відео

@@piotrmiszczak2904 There are some good videos depending on the type of damage and location. For example ua-cam.com/video/dWlJzS9h2L0/v-deo.html and ua-cam.com/video/-fNRcIfNWzU/v-deo.html

@@andrewmosqueda When I did it, the weight was about the same afterwards. I had the same thought initially, but then realized if it does turn out to be a few grams heavier, you won't notice that very small difference on the water. Also I was doing it as a fun project to get a damaged board back on the water rather than it going to the trash. So if that's what you want to do, go for it:)

@@dmitryulyanov891 My advice, especially if it's your first board, is to copy the dimensions of a board that you like. If you measure several boards, most tend to have things in about the same place. Online people talk about dimensions but I haven't seen any good engineering resources. The positions will also depend on rider size, preference, style, conditions etc, so will want adjustable foot straps etc. I made a freeride/slalom board...see video. If I were to do a slalom board again, I would copy EXACTLY as possible a production board...they have gone through many iterations and testing. It's relatively easy to make a board that works ok, but takes a lot of testing to make one that works very well.

@@thomford100 Good luck with your build! I have more detail of my board at the following site: www.72board.com/ I think the lamination was as follows. 2 layers of 4oz glass over the Divinycel PVC core. These were on top of some 6oz carbon or glass reinforcing patches over the mast track and back third of the deck and fin box. Under the Divinycel core, used one full layer of 6oz glass (4oz would be ok) with reinforcing carbon patches over rear third of deck, mast track, fin box area. One of the the full layers of glass was S glass. I used black pigment in the epoxy which makes it much easier to see in layup and when sanding. I hope that helps!

@@thomford100 I recently redid the board adding cutouts and softened the rails at the front, new finish and paint...now looks like the foil board I built. See: ua-cam.com/video/QAdpsn4uHpg/v-deo.html

@@goldney Thanks for the link! Great series of the build. What motivated you to soften the rails in front?

@@thomford100 When gybing, the sharp square rails up front seemed to "catch" very easily on the chop, making it difficult to gybe. I hope this improves it...should get an opportunity to try it in some decent wind soon.

@@goldney Thanks for your help!

@@ThomasDalum If I remember, I set the power supply as high as it would go...2.4 amps, 24 volts, so 57.6 Watts? I used 26 gauge nichrome wire. It would have been better to be a bit hotter, as I had to drag it too slowly...you get a smoother cut if it's just hot enough that you don't have to pull it through with much force.

@@38Laurent Thanks! FYI, I just finished another similar project. Added cutouts and refinished the first board I built...will be posting a video on that hopefully next week or so.

@@goldney oh cool 👍 i am fond of windsurf, i am currently in holiday at Leucate (France). I also enjoy editing videos on premiere pro about concert, Mountain Bike...and windsurf 🤙...but, i do not know how to repare or modify a board 😁

@@marquis.de.france Correct, there is a horizontal rod at the top that freely rotates. It can spin 360 degrees. The line to the camera is attached to one end of the rod. The other end of the rod spins on a vertical bolt which is attached to a 30cm long PVC sleeve that fits over the mast & sail. Yes, when the sail is flat on the water, the camera would sink. So don't drop the sail:) I wrapped the camera line around the boom until I was ready to use it, then let it go when the rig was upright. Not very practical, and you do risk damaging the camera!

Thanks James, the videos provided by your setup are quite impressive. A practical design with a similar viewpoint would likely become very popular because it is better and more stable than the harness mounted “stick in the back” design (i know: I have one of those). In your clips, all view points of your “follow-me” design are shown to be around the back end of the boom. I agree that it is probably the best angle, but is that what you saw too in your recordings? I was also wondering if there really was a need for a 360 degrees spin? It seems that a similar outcome could be achieved with a rod with a “flexible’’ or “soft” connection to the mast parallel(ish) the sail (without the need of 360 degrees spin). The challenge would then be to make some type of V shaped connector linking a flymount on the mast (pointing forward) to the rod (pointing backward). Please understand that I am not criticizing your design, I am just enthusiastic about the new possibilities that it inspires. I wish that some gear would be available for sale to take these types of shots. Well done!

@@marquis.de.france Thanks for your good feedback. Is appreciated. I was hoping to be able to get a 360 view while sailing by swinging the camera, but once you are sailing the wind+apparent wind is too strong and pushes the camera backwards...that's why the video is all from behind the boom. It might be possible to get 360 view of a gybe though, but a bit risky on damaging the camera. If I understand your idea, it sounds like a better way of preventing the swinging camera more. A long rod clamped over the mast sleeve perpendicular to the mast and a line from the camera to a clamp higher up the mast for support might also work?

@@goldney i can see a couple of issues with that design. (1) For most sail, the mast does not extend beyond the top of the sail, so it will difficult to install 2 clamps. (2) The top of the mast is not vertical when sailing, yet the rod should be close to horizontal. Somehow, you managed to overcome these 2 issues.

@@marquis.de.france Here's a link to a short video showing the mount. The large pipe just slips over the mast and the notch allows the pipe to go down either side of the sail. It's quite a tight fit, so there was no need for a clamp, but could be clamped or taped etc. You are correct, it needed to be at an angle, so I cut the pipe at an angle so the bolt would stick up vertically. ua-cam.com/video/OV16Schfa90/v-deo.html

@@henrynesis6264 I also use an Insta 360 camera. I use a clamp on the mast and short extension maybe 10cm. Haven't had any issues...What problems have you had?

@@goldney when it gets wet it seems ti malfunction won’t charge or if it charges it won’t turn on. Spoke to insta people they said don’t get it wet very frustrating I’ve gone through 3 cameras

@@henrynesis6264 Funny you should ask!After 2 years of use, my X2 camera just started having problems too. Only works correctly on USB power. It could be that it leaked somewhere? Battery seal or USB port most likely. Sounds like you had less luck though! I did make sure the clips were fully closed before using, rinsed the camera with fresh water and wiped the seals after every use. (Used in ocean). I will probably upgrade to the X4 as it's still a great camera.

Thanks! There's still life left in that board.

Thanks!

Thanks! Good luck with your regrip project.

Tampa Bay area, near Tarpon Springs. Good luck with your gybing....yes, takes lots of practice!

It was shot with mostly an Insta360 camera, at different positions.

Theoretically, I suppose both things you ask could be done. But as you realize, difficult to do so that it works well without a ton of work. I've heard of someone adding volume on top of a board, not sure if it worked? If you really want to build a big foil, it might be easier to start from scratch. Checkout Clearwater Hydrofoils...although mainly for surf and winging.

The Sailworks Flyer FR sails are 5.2, 6 and 7m. The Severne Foil Glide 2 is 6m. There's also a 7.5m Ezzy Cheetah in there. I think the front wings were 720 and 800.

Thank you! It was fun to build and even more fun to sail if you've seen some of my other videos.

Thank you! Windfoiling has really increased the options when it comes to light wind windsurfing.

Yes correct. I put a small 60cm PVC rod at the top of the mast to let it rotate and keep it away from the sail. The chord was attached to the rod.

Thanks Jim! Will see you on the water.

You can buy efoil pods that attach to the foil mast. On a similar note, this guy's carbon efoil build is amazing ua-cam.com/video/GbzUY4bv_1I/v-deo.html

People who already know how to windsurf are usually foiling in their first session. It takes several sessions to become comfortable. Also very important to start on the right equipment in the right conditions. A lesson, or help from friends who know what they are doing is very useful. I hope you try it!

I think that was a 6M sail, 10-12 knots, front wing was 730. It was windier than it looks in the video. I was on an 800 front wing that day with 6M sail. The lightest I sail in is 8+ knots, with 7.5 - 8.5 sail.

@@goldney That's mind blowing really! Some day I may scoop up some race gear so I can sail everyday!

@@davidbuckley9209 Yes, amazing how much better the new foils have become in the last couple of years. The PWA riders used to use 650 front wings as their high wind small gear, now that's their big gear. Improved fuse and mast is a big help also.

​@@goldney Good Copy! Glad to hear you are tracking the latest thoughts! It sounds like it is all subtle refinements to each part that produce noticable gains to the whole. I just saw a Patrick video of a 3.5 sail for slalom foil, it was not that windy!. Going down the path of ice boats really, if there is little drag from the water then the sails are the big drag force so they get smaller too. Thanks for what you do! You help grow the sport!

Thanks! An extension off the back of the boom works well. I used an old piece of batten tubing.

Thanks David! I sailed that board just a few days ago...the repair seems to still be holding up without any issues.

Thanks, Tom. Maybe look at techniques used for building whitewater kayaks? See some links below. Looks like rotomolding is the main technique. There would be some engineering challenges, especially to create something decent, but maybe possible? ua-cam.com/video/izJm_vGJRa4/v-deo.htmlsi=Ofr_O40gjXu5HQCV ua-cam.com/video/xFZtBVmrYIM/v-deo.htmlsi=jWroylXOIVdV6xtj ua-cam.com/video/P-WBAyabCVg/v-deo.htmlsi=REU8zXLGpG5JHknS

@@goldney thanks James. I’ll check it out

@@tommccolly6348 Have you considered an inflatable windsurf board? The cheapest option might be to get an old board and add a few layers of S-glass to the bottom and rails to see if it would hold up (better than carbon for taking impacts).

@@goldney I have looked at the SUB/Sail boards but they really don't have the performance. I could wrap an old board with S-Glass but I'm trying to create something that offers good performance, durability is esthetically pleasing. The way they made the original Windsurfer is pretty close to what I'd like to achieve. I've tried searching for mfg techniques for this but have yet to find anything.

@@tommccolly6348 I think they were made using thermoform molding...big heated steel presses? I am sure there are many variations of the process...eg you can see a bit in this Bic video. ua-cam.com/video/2mZ3DnxUw08/v-deo.htmlsi=x-Enflrm3cQ02JSg Not sure how you could do this as a DIY project though. Good luck!

I have only used it in flat water with small swell...less than 50cm. But it kept stable for good video. Good luck with your build. I am sure you will make it work.

@@goldney thx for the info. Your overall design looks promissing. So I will try it - maybe with a floating anchor.

My guess would be 2-3 days per week, maybe a bit more? This location is not so good with any E wind and not at low tide, but other locations nearby. iWindsurf app shows about 40% of days over 13kts.

thanks @@goldney

I live in Holland i am a windsurfers all year round , just get a warm 6.4 suit and its gonna bust just fine..

Thanks Nico! Can't compete with you and Lars videos...was great to meet you when you visited near here in FL last year. Good luck on the PWA tour! You are a great ambassador for the sport.

Thanks! Fun to sail to if the wind cooperates. Next time...