Відео

wth is this 😭

Hey Tyler, I still don’t quite understand why the training focuses only on gaining strength through neural adaptations and doesn’t include something to promote hypertrophy of the finger flexors. I suppose increasing muscle size would enhance the potential for developing greater strength in the future. Somehow, this doesn’t seem to be a discussion topic in any of your videos or posts. Thank you, and I hope you get a chance to read this!

I'd argue that holding a hold for 10-15 sec is more important than contact strenght. Otherwise you can only catch and immediately let go.

Thanks for the great video

Doc! You're the man! Thanks for all this helpful information 😎

It's amazing what you're doing for the sport! Keep going!

The Tindeq app is more simple. There’s a link in my profile if you want to purchase.

Do you have a reason for choosing tindeq instead of pitch6 force board? I'm looking into buying one and trying to find opinions on both

Which portable hardboard is that ?

I'm confused, and concerned about safety. So should off the wall recruitment and strength training, for the fingers, be done on entirely different days than climbing? The graphic at 12:07 seems to suggest this is recommended: 1)warmup + finger sets for strength 2)wall crawls for coordination 3)regular climbing All of that in one day, is that right? Sometimes, I've heard that doing finger boarding and tons of other finger work is very taxing in one day. Just want to be safe about this.

Where did this video series go? 😢

Just bought a Tindeq. How often would you train your fingers like this?

awesome content 🙏

This video is sick. What are your thoughts on doing the curls with weights on a loading pin rather than a tindeq? Seems like it would also work and could be a good option for those who don't have a tindeq? Thanks!

Where can I buy the talon grip?

This is some awesome “training”…👍😁 thank you for the content

Is this fingerboarding video still available?

Thank you guys so much for sharing these approaches and recommendations publicly. Fantastic work, once again.

Fantastic video, very informative. Is there are pt 2 coming soon?

I really like the concept of wall crawls, but I don't really get what intensity level to aim for? I have a 45 degree wall and if I use smaller holds than I normally climb on the moves become like a limit session where I can hardly do the moves. If I'm supposed to do the moves static and controlled I cant go down in hold size? The typical 7/3 repeater that the session is compared to is not like a high intensity move. So should I go with lower intensity and more focus on controlling the hold/move? What RPE to go for?

Hi Taylor, if I was to do edge pick ups as a part of my warm up before the board training, what % of max do you recommend to use for it?

Hi Tyler enjoyed the video, wondered what your thoughts are on someone doing the advanced session x1 weekly for a slightly longer duration rather than twice weekly for a shorter duration? Of course with other stimulation included

I wrote pobably 80% ow what was said in this video down and will implement it. Thank you so much for this value.

This is fantastic. Probably the best training video I've seen. Rather than another "scam" video. Thanks!!!

Recently got a tendeq Progressor and this video helps to make sure I’m using it correctly. Thank you Tyler for all the information you put out there! I remember meeting you at one of the coaching seminars you did. Have a blessed day!

I have had a Tindeq for a few weeks now and my standing curl is consistently around 80-90% of my standing pull. Same for overhead pull. I seem to have a hard time pulling much harder than my curl like you are describing. Following the form you demonstrate in your videos. Any ideas why that might be?

Good Content !!! 🤩 Thank you to share your knowledge 🙏

Gold for the climbing and science fanatics out there! Looking forward to part 2!

Just started doing those 6 month later... I'm at 47kg peak force and around 35kg with the finger curl. My finger curl went up fast but my peak force remain constant , this is due to coordination in the curling method and not strength gain I guess?

My neighbours will love the first exercise. Nice video, ty

So in theory, if you have a lumbrical injury, would you possibly have less contact strength available? Even if there’s no pain in the position?

Are you not able to do finger curls in the talon grip because the ball doesn't allow for you to use your fingers without your thumb(without slipping off)? Do you feel finger curls using the talon grip is ideal? I've been experimenting with talon grip finger curls with a device made specifically for it and it definitely feels like a new to me stimulus but I haven't experimented with it very long.

Again great series! Looking forward for the tindeq training video, Thanks guys

How long are you supposed to rest between the warm up sets ?

So you're saying that JUST doing the warm up before a climbing session, and not doing any finger training session specifically (with 3-5 sets and 3 mins of rest in between), is enough finger strength training in combination with coordiantion training drill ?

Hello, I'm not sure I got the last section right. Are 3 sets of the finger curling and yielding supposed to be done as a warm up for a climbing session ? or as a warm up for a strength training session ? Also you qualify it as a "finger warm up pt1 & 2", but it's actually the whole strength training session for the fingers isn't it ? or it it just a warm up and then you do a classic strength finger train session as described in your next video (3-5 sets, 3-5 reps, 80%intensity, 3 min rest)

Love this! Going to incorporate it into my training, I'm finding I'm getting flash pumped on the wall crawls, any advice?

This is a jewel. Simple and well explained!

Awesome video. Thanks for the upload.

Great video an analyisis of the topic. But please change your light setting to have the light over your head instead of under while filming. It creates a creepy look otherwise.

Thanks a lot for the video! Ican see how this contains all the fundamental info for part 2. fingers crossed ;) keep up the great work. I've had really good results with your warm-up and finger strength recommendations in the past btw. Thanks a lot for that, too.

Good stuff Tyler!

This video is fire! Tyler is GOAT

Thank you Doc!

Is there any application for overloading powerful exercises for strength adaptations? Like explosive pull-ups with a weight vest, then later get rid of the weight. Or would it just be best to do weighted pull-ups then later explosive pull-ups?

Can you provide some information about the talon setup? Is it the 4" or 5" tension ball? And where can I find a similar base plate for the hold? Hoping to get the setup and experiment with training with it. Thanks for the info!

So I'm struck by the idea that that force velocity curve still is very valid even though you're talking about something so sports specific of grabbing a hold quickly. The strength you gain from a slow movement under heavy load creates a systemic safety. Then training a fast movement allows for that sport specific adaption. This means that the limiter is always going to be the central nervous system Is the real limiter. And again, that means that the amount of recovery (muscle metabolism but also indicators like HRV bone density etc)is the limiter on certain kind of gains probably up to genetic potential. This makes me think that if in the strength training portion of a training cycle, you were to start with a number with single hand slow twitch of 50% body weight and then over time progressively overload that would give you a very easy place to start that is measurable overtime. Once that plateaus you know it's time to change to a fast twitch stimulus continuing progressive overload. (Because I don't know enough about climbing I'm not going to Guess a methodology) but just to say that fast sport specific would continue the growth of central nervous system ability. That also means that once an athlete is at a little above 100% body weight on single arm, you probably get diminishing returns of training slow or fast which muscle or it become so sport specific like climbing and endurance wall versus very quick movements from a metabolic standpoint. TLDR: overall strength is necessary to progressively create power. The right training of sport specific muscle doesn't have the right tools and studies yet to show certain methodologies work better. Love your videos. They always make me think.

Been using metacarp edge without insert and just pull as hard as I can while anchoring on my foot with cord. It works so well and I can tell my finger strength has improved. Unfortunately I pulled my lumbrical on my ring finger side (was chill climbing on my previously sent problem but unexpectedly cut feet), now my ring finger can't even lift up my bottle although it is a low grade 1/2 strain. Any idea to recover it?