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I've never worked with the Isuzu diesel engines but a search online shows a MAT sensor is manifold air temperature. Some California gas versions had MAP sensors(manifold absolute pressure) but I haven't run across one with a MAT sensor. The first thing I would do is try replacing the sensor itself and resetting the ECM. Other than that what would cause manifold air temperature to be too high? You have a turbo so if the waste gate is letting the pressure build up too much that could be a possibility but again I haven't worked with the turbo diesels. Let me know how it's going.

Thank you. I wish I had made it with better quality video. I hope it can help someone

That sounds great man. I wish I had more 4zd1/4ze1 to work on. I've learned quite a bit more since I made that video so if you have any questions please ask.

Thanks! I was just working on my trooper today. I've learned a lot since I've made this video so I wonder if it's time for me to make another quick one.

Yes!! Please do. Can I request setting/adjusting the valve lash? Just picked up a Trooper that's got 60K miles since last checked and I really want to get in and check it out. I've got a manual and have checked in a Planet Isuzu. Not quite confident just yet and the weather here is crap for street parking work. Thanks for this video it was great @@nicholasbottini8731

@@getsducks727 buy overlap I mean where the exhaust valve stays open for a very small amount of time while the intake valve is opening to let in the new air fuel mixture. It the way the cam is ground to give the engine a bit more power. I think it helps perg out all the exhaust. My timing belt only has about 35,000 miles on it. I replaced all that when I redid the engine. Sure I did check out planet Isuzu back then. Right now the tailstock on my transmission is making a squeaking noise so it's possible I'll have to pull that out again. If I do I'll make a video of that because it's a huge pain in the butt 😂

Haha yeah I just have it at stock height. Going to check out your videos soon I already saw how nicely you painted your 4ze1. Next project I'm planning for my trooper is to put in an ARB air locker in the front.

@@nicholasbottini8731 The ARB unit is expensive, I bought an Aussie lunchbox, not much cheaper, very interested to see how your air unit works out. great I hope. Air hammer kicks those bushings out, try it when you do the rear end, if you haven't done those yet.

I haven't done either. Both differentials are open right now. I haven't bought the unit yet. I didn't know anything else was available besides ARB. My axles are the Isuzu axles. Did yours have the Dana? Every year I do an off-roading trip with my dad and my brother and I keep running into a situation where I wish I had at least one differential that locked up.

@@nicholasbottini8731 The 91 Trooper that I am doing a resto-mod on now came with open diffs. Corporate 12bolt rear and 10 bolt front. standard set up with open diffs. I have had 18, 1st gens now so I collected G80 LSD rear end from other Troopers. Looking for a G80 may be your quickest way to make an improvement. If you find one with good bearings then you could just do a swap in. 4.56 gearing is standard in Canada. Its all I ever see but some guys are able to find the 4.77 I have never needed them. with an MUA5, G80 LSD and an Aussie in font, I expect this Trooper to climb trees. I'll keep checking your channel out.👍

My gears are 4.56 as well. I'm in California so it's hard to find any trooper parts at all in junk yards around here. Do the limited slip differentials last long? Or do the clutches wear out pretty quick? I'll keep an eye on your channel too. Seems like you have a lot of experience

I've never actually traced it out but usually the tach gets pulses from the distributor so I assume it's ultimately coming from one of the wires in the wiring harness that plugs into the distributor. It also needs to have one wire for power when the ignition is on and probably another for ground. I think even another for when you turn the headlights on so the backlighting works. The distributor also gives crankshaft positioning to the module so there's a lot of communicating going on between the distributor and the module. If you trace the wire you might find that it Ys off to go to the module too. Just a guess.

Yeah so problem is it is disconnected lol and can’t figure out where it even is to start

@@corbinmichael1288 what is disconnected? Show some pictures if you can

That sounds like an intriguing problem. Can you elaborate on how you can't get the engine to respond to the throttle with any regularity? If you gun it, does it rev up or stall? For the sake of performing tests while it's running, why don't you back the idle screw out on the throttle body so you don't have to feather the pedal.

@@nicholasbottini8731 the vehicle sat for 4 years and I found that the fuel had turned into basically turpentine... Replaced pump and filter. It fired right up and idled for about 30 seconds before it died. Next attempt it would start if feathering throttle. If you stomped on the throttle it will big and die. The only way to get it to rev up is by nursing the throttle... Could get to hold about 2k rpms and it sounds great. Let off any and it drops to idle for a split second and then dies. Cleaned TBI, and replaced parts mentioned to no improvement. Thanks for the help. I'll post vid on my channel.

@@MrBowNaxe Looking forward to seeing it. Good job on replacing the pump, that's quite a project especially if half the bolts on the tank were seized like mine were. Do you have a vacuum gauge? I've had my engine behave similar to yours when a large vacuum tube fell off the port. There's one going to the idle air control and it goes through the middle of the ITEC. Sometimes it's helpful to take off the passenger wheel and remove the rubber flap so you can inspect some of the lines from that angle. I replaced all the lines back when I put it together because I figured there would be some splits and leaks that would add up. I'm guessing any air that doesn't pass through the Mass Air Flow sensor will cause a lean condition. The Oxygen sensor will sense and the module can correct to some extent but if it's a big leak it can't. The power brake booster could be an issue too. Maybe it would be worth pulling that vacuum line off and plugging it. if the diaphragm is split inside it would be like having a huge vacuum leak. Did you check fuel pressure? Maybe the fuel pressure regulator is an issue. I think it's suppose to be 42 PSI without vacuum and 31 PSI with. It could be a bad Mass Air Flow sensor too. You could try taking it off the car and cleaning it with the cleaner or maybe it needs to be replaced. I was able to get one from Autozone but it took them 3 times to get me the right one. I didn't really even need to change I think I just wanted a spare. I don't thing the throttle positioning switch would cause this kind of problem for you because it's not a potentiometer style, it's just a 3 position switch. Idle, wide open throttle, and in between. I'm still not 100 percent sure what WOT position does. I'm guessing makes the mixture a little more rich. The Oxygen sensor wouldn't cause this kind of problem either because even if it wasn't working at all, it only makes slight adjustments to the mixture anyway. I hope you're making some progress. let me know.

were you able to see my video I posted on my page? I have somehow managed to have two accounts. I'm still trying to move clips from my phone and GoPro to my channel.

@@MrBowNaxe late reply...Reset timing and fired right up and runs good, Not great but good. High end tries to bog. Ran out of time this visit home but will try to resolve next rip.

Hey Kyle, I'll help in any way I can. Do you want to have the block machined and then assemble the engine yourself or have someone build it entirely? Do you already have the block to start with? Sorry you had some bad experiences reaching out. I won't name names but one guy in particular was a real jerk back when I started my rebuild. There is a machine shop in Bakersfield called Reynolds automotive machine who at the time actually had a blurb on their website about how they rebuilt the 4zd1 and 4ze1 and added a little pep to it. But that was about 5 years ago when I saw that. You'll never get enough power to throw you back in the seat but any extra helps. I would definitely recommend balancing the internals since you're pretty much always over 3,000 RPM on the highway.

Yes. 4ZE1

@@nicholasbottini8731 how much cc?

@@Wisnu715 2559cc but mine is slightly bigger because I bored it a little.

@@nicholasbottini8731 I think 4ZD1😅

I'd be curious to see how a shop does them compared to me rolling around on the floor. It'd be interesting to see how they get the big bushings in the frame out.

Exactly the Carage work is random fix not worry like you 👍🌹

Yes I still own it. I just drove it today and I'm taking it on a camping trip soon 😁

There's a few things that could be. Maybe your idle air control valve. Once it's warmed up what RPM is it idling at?

@@nicholasbottini8731 it was the air intake tube, had a hole on the bottom, and the mass airflow sensor was cracked.

I had a start and within two seconds stall condition. After 4-5 trys it would go NP. Had an extra fuel pump relay so I popped it in and good on startup now.

Doing well, I keep it parked in the garage. A few rust issues on the roof once in awhile but I attacked them as I see them. How's your project going?

Good luck buddy, let me know if there's anything I can help with.

@@nicholasbottini8731 I had to pull the entire front axle out of the Jackaroo, to change the cv's. what a job !!!

@@fireballfireball1067 there's a retainer ring on inner CV cup. Wipe grease away you'll see it.

Good luck dude, let me know how it goes

I'm happy to help. Thanks for watching

Sorry I didn't see this comment until now. It's called Reynolds Automotive Machine.