Відео

Do you show how to clean the valves?

I cannot for the life of me find that bottom bolt. There seems to be an electrical unit on my car bolted on top of the steering rack so I cannot get a mirror. Have wasted at least an hour so far trying to find that bottom bolt. I've tried my phone camera, a borescope camera. Cant even get my hand in because of the extra electrical unit😢. Try again tomorrow.

Great video

Thank you!!! Your are the ONLY person to post a proper video for a non turbo Mini! You are a LIFESAVER!

Why did you remove the entire intake manifold for a hose that pops off?

If you have rough idle, first start with changing the PCV valve before going into all this work.

I'm interested in how to open the replacement fob, can someone help???

Thanks

You have just destroyed New York, no more investment but in destruction, if that? Who will even pay them for that now?

My pcv on my Peugeot 308 1.5 bluehdi is different. My spring is longer when I take cap of and my membrane always sitting in the cap so this is blocking hole I would think 🤷🏼‍♂️. I am getting rough idle vibration. Excessive pressure which is leaking oil from engine gaskets. And I get a whistle noise at a certain rpm when I drive and also when I am idle and rev to certain rpm the whistle is there. Any help I will be most appreciated

Thanks a lot! Have you had any error codes along with the rough idle?

Ours V8 has a broken white wire in the swivel joint. The plastic is in good shape so I don't need to remake the whole thing with epoxy, and I'll attempt to keep the wire internal, though your external wire routing gets the job done.

For anyone struggling with the hidden bolt. It's very close to the rubber and steel bracket that you first had to undo, the rubber piece that holds the steel bracket lets it flop around a bit but there are also a host of pipes and cables that may get in the way. I spent almost 2 hours trying to get on that one last hidden bolt. I had to squeeze the socket and short extension past some pipes and cables. i could feel the bolt with my fingers but i couldn't get the socket onto it. In the end it was because i was coming in on too flat an angle you almost need to come up from below like 50 degrees angle or something. Keep stabbing around and up at that angle till you finally feel the 10mm engage, then it comes no worries. I only needed to remove the chain tensioner to check it's length. I think i was sold a short one like the first ones that came out. There are longer ones available as far as i understand. I've cleaned my vanos valves and if that doesn't stop the noise i'll be trying to buy a longer timing chain tensioner. The new one has a stiffer spring but it's the same length as the original one which is why so many r56 suffered premature timing chain noise.

Think....think.....that's why deficit.....keeps goin up...n up.... And Weezer in debtor prison.

Never trust governments to solve YOOOR problems. It's always costs more than it's Worth.

The sensors or emissions control system should directly help DIY to identify failed parts and circuit But it's designed to HELP....using CODES. Never let government help... Because it's a Racket. When in fact they could a designed sensors to isolate the exact part or parts or problem so WE always know.

Code problems point to circuit problem not necessarily sensor problem..sensors do go bad butt Butt.....dirty engine...or. Less maintained engines or wear good mileage engines....cause Multiple problems...by tightening up...specifications.....flow of pressures is monitored by computer....resetting codes after copying to record......maintains your record but resets limo mode..or what is known as reduced power mode....when YOU thinj it's a serious mechanical problem which is actually a small leak. The emissions controlled state of dealers n manufacturers and engine users.....want you to FIXX.

Good video! You don't need a mirror. You can do it by feel. Finger yoga! Is there a way to check if this is the issue before taking it all to pieces? Thanks

Very well explained. Thanks!

Very helpful. Thanks!

I have an n16 but last pcv cover was Fixxed or glued.....AND.mechanics say WHOLE cover most be replaced...such a nightmare to inspect.....AND replace......bad componetry designs in an exacting emission computer controlled MINI.....generally designed at CORE well...but all the attached componetry is a .NIGHTMARE....I....DREAM an WISH all UPDATED componetry espescially the plastics with thermo proven covers.solenoids with filtration filters.....THEY coulda ACED thee.......DESIGN with ELITE proven componetry to....ferry out or rule out......worn or failed reliable components.

Would this work on a 2007 forester

Thanks

are there any good alternative than Jura tabs?

Hi. I have a snapped negative wire in there. I have it all apart. I did a fix with heat shrink, then realised the plastic bracket that covers the cable would not resit because of additional thickness on cable in that area. I'm thinking of splicing in a longer run of cable. Any ideas on wire size, amps etc?

Can I activate the cleaning system without the symbol showing?

I'm actually struggling to find what part is causing my coolant to disappear (no visible leak)... It is supposed to have a faulty thermostat sensor (according to computer check) and only reason i noticed is cause there was white smoke coming out fron the exhaust while working on the interior of my mini with a/c on... Could this thermostat/hose issue lead to the burning of coolant?

Thanks, very helpful!

my friend can you help me? The hose change that you did for the idling problem will be associated with this code 2177 in the konwei OBD2 scanner where the definition is (very poor idle system turned off bank 1) my car is a mini Cooper S turbo model 2008 R56 N14 it will have should I also change that hose like you did? Could it be that the problem you had with your car is the same problem that I have with my car and I have to change the same hose? I would appreciate your answers and you can help me, I would be very grateful to you thank you

Amazing video! did you have the same "check engine" issue after this replacement?

The 1st time I knew that my engine was overheating is when steam was coming off the bonnet when it was ranining. Then started hearing the fan was on more than normal. No coolant warning lights came up. Coolant was half empty and I was diving it around for months.

*Promo sm* 😊

Thank you for making this video ... your explanation is very helpful, to the point, and easy to understand.... truly appreciated!

I have check engine motor flashing and sound

Hey bud ...brilliant vid...just a quick one..what are the two leavers ..with LESHP wrote on them .

same here, rough idle, my mini is R56 2008 Year, didnt have much power when you go highway, needs more fuel i think.....my fault code is P0141 o2 sensor (sensor 2 bank 1)

Brilliant, I have a broken wire in middle of swivel joint on motorhead , will be using your wiring to bypass joint fantastic thank you.

Great Video. Good to know you can access those two annoying intake bolts from the top. I always have to access them from underneath.

check your frontal impact airbag sensor ..

What was the fault code for this problem? I have the same issue with my mini one 2009. Please let me know

followed your instructions and replaced the tube and car runs like a sports car again

You’re a genius

EXCELLENT VIDEO! what was the trouble code? I just got a rough idle P0012 "A" camshaft position - timing over-retarded bank 1 .. In the past ive already done timing chain, HPFP, valve cover gasket with PCB valve twice, thermostat, etc. Could it actually be vanos solenoid?

Alhamdullilah. Genius move on the drain plug . I don't like the idea of ramps or jacks either, thanks for sharing your work.

Hi watching videos again lol I had new thermostat housing and water pipe I am getting code 2789 fuel mix adaption.

Great job removing that electric wire housing gives room to work on removing the sensor! Will remove and clean both the sensor and the cat with crc throttle cleaner

Thanks!

Does the baking soda still have a fresher effect than how it was when you first bought it?

Hi, Thanks for this. I am having a similar issue as your. I changed the click spring, but the airbag light is still flashing. I reset the air bag by turning on/off (3 times) and now it is on diagnosis mode. It flashes very slowly, and doesn't seem to reset it. I connected the OBDII, but doesn't get any dtc error. I used to get B0002:13 error. Not sure, how I can get rid of the slow flashing airbag light. Any thoughts? How did you solve yours?

Great vid. thanks!