Відео

Did you have good luck with the niche head? I've seen alot say it fails in 30 minutes and destroys the head gasket

Holy shit good job. Can I send you mine to do?

Excellent Video. Thank you.

Is the 99 prairie 400 carburetor differnet from the 98

Love the camera angles but hate your methods

Acetylene directly next to a rubber O-ring for the AVCs 😬

Thank you for the video, I had to show this to my mechanic, because he got stuck trying to remove the Axel, I guess is a common occurrence on older models. Is a great car just too bad the rust is what destroys it.

Not at all impress

I couldn't done it with out this video. I cut a part of with the grinder. I got stuck hitting the axel with a 3 pound hammer. I put some BARDAHL WB-50 that did the job. Thanks man

Question? Would you know by any chance why my spring seems like it's pushing shaft half way out of motor side. It's not flush on both sides. Slides back and forth

Amigo soy de colombia a mi rino el tablero sale la letra E Y NO SALE MASA NDA SI TENDRA ARREGLO 1:48

I wouldn't put foil in there. Take the crank, rods/pistons to machine shop and let them polish the crank pins to fit a new quality set of bearings at full torque.

Great video! I'm curious how things turned out with the rod clearances. I'm having the same problem now with my XPAG motor. How many layers of foil tape did you need? My bearings are .020" oversize.

Where did the rebuild kit come from?

Enjoy your vids! In the middle of a 46 yr 'ground-up' restoration of a '53 TD!! The stands look like they are hand-made out of emt (electrical metallic tubing). Please advise. Someone else asked earlier about 'stands' & you replied 'Advance Bumper Stands' - I think I might've misunderstood!! Thx! Have a nice Memorial Day! All The Best & G_D Bless!! jim, 1rcs!;))

i own a 2004, and a 2007,midnight silverado. 2007 has less than 4000 miles, the 2004 has 200,072, miles on it with no major problem except oil changes tires brakes.

You are a carburetor wizard! TY so much as I now have confidence to do my own.

I'm restoring a '53 presently with similar issues. I'm (again) at the 8 minute mark and thank you for the great content - makes my life so much easier. I may comment again as I get further in but rather than the heat gun, I prefer to drill out the screw heads. This particular part you are removing (8 minutes) is so badly rusted on mine that I'm making new one, but man, it was a job getting it out. As for rivets, use screws or weld.

This is like watching a monkey f#ck!ng a football. Embarrasing to watch.

Great video! Only downside is you go for long stretches of recording audio but no commentary. We want to know all the steps. If you're a pro mechanic you know but if you're a backyard mechanic you don't know, You know but don't always tell us all the details. I've watched this twice & it is very informative but had the same impression both times. I subscribed but need to hear more than wrenches clinking. We can see your head but can't read your mind. There's a lot in there & we want to know what it is . We're grateful guys like you take your time to share your hard earned knowledge. Thank you

If you don't mind me asking. have you ever come across the Issue where the air filter compartment filled up with gas. If so what did you find to be the cause?

I have same 4 wheeler .shop replaced carburetor cranks well idles well but just passed 1/2 throttle rpms stop risen no stumbling or busting just stays thereany clues what to check air/fuel mix or jet which jet controlls top end throttle maybee spark plug

Thank you for the vid helped me get my 06 foester right .

Hi I am new to this channel! I like thes video very much! Thanks to for sharing this with us! 😁😄👍

Can you please share the purchase link? How much is the cost?

Nice job. We are getting ready to rebuild a friend's TD engine. It has poor compression and is fouling new spark plugs after just 5 miles of driving. We were thinking about rebuilding only the head but now we are considering doing the entire engine. I have two MGTFs and one of them is disassembled for restoration. The drivetrain is still in the chassis as is the body tub, axles, wheels, tires, brakes etc. I was considering only a cosmetic restoration of this MGTF but now may do the engine and suspension as well. I am 70 and my friend is 74. All this may prove very ambitious for us old geezers.

Is the dog in the beginning OK? 😢

2005 bombardier 400

I hate to mention a major oversight here. The swivel link bushings must be reamed out to .750 in order to have proper clearance for the distance tubes. That is why you had a difficult time pushing them in. They should be a simple finger-tight press fit. Please, please read your MG Factory Shop Manual.

Redline Ridge is the best! It's one of my favorites in that area. Nice vid!

Where are you located?

Nice camera work and well spoken tutorial. Subbed

I have just finished cleaning the carburetor on our 99 Kawasaki prairie 400 4x4 (identical to yours, green, and everything). The idle jet was clogged, and it would only idle with partial choke, as well. Thanks to the clear instructions and details in your video, I was able to get it fixed easily and quickly with minimal cost! (Carb cleaner)

Do you have the torque specs for spindle nut and the two knuckle bolts? I read 145 for the spindle nut and 32 foot pounds for the knuckle but having a hard time confirming. Thanks!

Excellent tutorial. I tried a set of HAmazon sourced aftermarket seals, and experienced the same crooked installation, with one side of the seal getting pressed slightly too deep. They went in very easily, and then I was able to easily remove them with a hooked finger - I had zero confidence in them. So I sourced a pair of Yamaha OEM seals this evening, and will reattempt the process tomorrow. Wanted to see if anyone had a better installation tool than the 30 mm socket, which is exactly what I used as well. What I’ve learned: Stick with OEM when it comes to seals. I sourced aftermarket driveshaft, couplers, axle shafts, and brakes, and they’re all quite nice for the cost. But seals are just so important, and have such tight tolerances. Worth the extra cost in my opinion. (And those little buggers do cost! Oh well). Thanks for the excellent video. Great camera angles, lighting, editing, and no endless rambling about obvious mechanical principles. Just relevant information presented efficiently. Well done!

great video just recently blew mine up and looking to rebuild it

Nice work you do there. However i would like to make a few comments. Luckily you use new Swivel Pins. Those Swivel Pins can be bent from hitting a curb. There are videos from "University Motors" showing this problem. ua-cam.com/video/OUBauSNW8rM/v-deo.html If the swivel pins are bent and you reuse them you will end up with a bad Camber setting. To bad the MG TD has no way to adjust any Camber that is off. On my TD a Shop in Phoenix (W... Ch... ) recently rebuilt the whole front suspension and i have now on driver side a positive and on passenger side a negative Camber. On my TD it is so bad you can see it just with your bare eye. Just being few degree off will show and influence how the car tracks. Driving uneven roads this misalignment will show. I was also happy to see that you changed the suspension arms with that elongated hole. Here again those elongated holes will lead to a Camber that is off. What i like to say, whatever work you do on that front suspension always ask your selves if it will influence the Camber setting.

Sweet video. I, especially, liked the little clip at 2:38.

Great Stuff as always!

In 1960 I bought a '52 TD with eight teeth missing on the ring gear. I pulled the engine to make life easier. Ordered the ring gear and it was shipped overseas for about $100.00. I had a machine shop install the new ring gear and balance it. While I was waiting, I decided to pull the pistons to take the build one step further. To my surprise, the rod journals were larger than the bore ! Lots of fun. My other TD was a RHD.

This is basically wheelie training wheels.

7❤❤

What axles did you get for it?

Man you are awesome! Thanks for the great content!

Did you replace the head bolts or just use the old ones?

In order for a Hackzall or Sawzall to work, one must use a carbide tip blade, a 6-inch metal blade like the "Lenox Thick Metal Lazer CT Carbide Tip (6108RCT)" or "Diablo Steel Demon" Thick Metal Carbide Teeth (DS0608CF). It is important to douse the blade with cutting fluid to start and keep dousing it, especially if it is throwing sparks. Although the Lenox blade is supposed to be better according to Project Farm, I used the Diablo DS0608CF along with a Milwaukee 2821-20 Sawzall. Make one through-cut flush with the back of the tulip and another through-cut 2-inches inboard from the bracket. Then you will be able to remove the outboard segment, unfasten and remove the carrier bearing bracket, and finally remove the segment from the transmission. If your Sienna is a model year prior to 2004, a model with the integrated carrier bearing bracket and motor mount, make a third through-cut a foot away from the transmission, enabling you to pound the remnant out without removing the bracket-motor mount. Going forward, I recommend temporarily replacing the 14mm bolt with a straight non-tapered M10-1.25 Zerk fitting and using a grease gun to fill the passage around the carrier bearing, preventing it from seizing up in the future.

Just subscribed. Doing 3 jobs on sti . Rebuilding oem psp , replacing valve cover gaskets, sparkplug seals, halve moon cam seals and replacing all the o rings on the oil cooler setup above the oil filter due to leak. Sti is apain compared to my 98 honda prelude

Been wondering if a cam seal replacement can be done with engine in car. I have a 2006 subaru sti ej257 engine. Great video , much thanks