Відео

There's a lot of variables that come into play, so it's hard to tell. For example, some tanks have a higher than normal pH value but are still able to grow plants. They can't wait for the pH to be low as it may not be able to. Same goes for low-tech tanks, as they don't use CO2. I think the biggest factor in this is also the fertilization method. (EI vs Lean) Maybe in the future, I'll make a video on different tests on the optimal time to fertilize.

The price has gone down significantly since posting this video. They're more widely available now! Still pricey though...

If you're talking about Rotala 'Blood Red', then maybe... it can get "red," but it'll probably be more orange. Rotala H'Ra would also get orange rather than its staple red without CO2. That being said, it's worth a shot if you want to try! There's more to red plants than just CO2!

You're right about 5V strips being blown out with 12V. But the power supply I used is actually rated as 5V 15A. Not 12V

Not sure what the branches were, but all I know is that they are hardwood. Might be some sort of berry bush. I grabbed them off of a random beach, but I made sure they were hardwood and not softwood

Hmm... not 100% sure if it's possible given how we don't know the exact LED diodes they use. Even if we do know the exact LED diode model, there's no guarantee that the WLED software can support them...

@@TropiscapeAquatics Hmm valid point, I was thinking of buying vivid led bead + pcb + bluetooth + power adapter. Only thing left is heat sink (which I will improvise and no fan). I have got a 4 ft tank. So I am just trying to save some money. If I can make it work, then essentially I will get two vivids at the cost of one. Am I missing anything here? Also please let me know if you have any heatsinks in mind that can work for this. Btw, great video and content. You gave me little hope.

@aakashdabas982 Hmm... the heatsink will be the hardest part to source. For me, I used a broken light's heatsink. Wood might be out of the equation given how hot a regular Vivid can get... The only thing that comes to mind is making the main body out of wood, but use a piece of sheet metal to put the LEDs on. The only issue with that is that it may be possible for overvoltage or other electrical complications. I don't think this will be enough, though... You could have some "vent holes" on the side or above for heat to escape from. If you don't mind me asking, where are you sourcing the Vivid LED beads?

@@TropiscapeAquatics they are listed on their official website. All parts included pcb and bluetooth module.

@aakashdabas982 It might be pretty easy to put together if you can buy every part for the light, except the heatsink, of course. You might not even need to use the WLED software as well and control it through the Chihiros app. It'll still be expensive, but if you have the time and cash, try it out!

It really do be like that sometimes... I made changes to the title and the thumbnail, so hopefully it will pick up in the future. That's usually how it's been. I'm glad you enjoyed the video!

@ You’ll get there…it’s a niche hobby so it’s quite hard to break into. If anybody is deserving of that, I really do think it’s you. Most underrated channel in fishkeeping by a mile

Sounds like KH is 0 or 1 if it turns yellow immediately

Unfortunately, I do not know anyone who stocks clown barbs... I'm not super familiar with Clown Barbs or barbs in general, so I can't offer any advice, sorry...

@@TropiscapeAquatics Thanks anyway :p It seems nobody knows in 2024 😧

Depends on the plant species you want to grow. You can get away with a cheaper LED light if you only plant to grow "low-tech" plants. High-tech tanks will need more PAR, of course. As for the Twinstar A series, it's a decent light for sure! One issue with it are the "light legs" that hold the light on the tank. It's a bit shoddy, but the light itself will work great!

Glad you liked it!

Should be fine as long as you don't see any physical damage on the product. But do be aware that it will be hard to test to see if it works or not. That's the inherit risk for buying used, unfortunately...

Thanks 😊

Nice!

💀

It's quite difficult to notice a change. It could be the lighting of the video as well. But I digress, the better GH/KH test kit goes to Nutrafin for me.

Green spot algae is mostly a phosphate deficiency. As for the dying bottoms, it could be the plant reabsorbing old leaves to produce new ones because it's not getting enough nutrients. The other reason is a dirty substrate that has way too much detritus buildup.

Keeping stable water parameters is the main one. I think they escape because the water parameters aren't the best for them... Drip acclimating them before adding them to the tank also really helps!

Yeah, that one is another beast on its own. I haven't fully experimented with it yet, but I want to in the future!

It's interesting how UV could potentially affect plant growth in a positive way. Just be careful with any acrylic equipment. I believe UV light will stain them

1. Liability. 2. Some might end up selling the trimmings or giving them away. (Unless for personal use, of course). 3. As a reminder for proper disposal as they can easily take over an ecosystem.

That's completely fair! 👍

Interesting... however, there's a slight issue that I see. You're talking about colour temperature, which is completely different than PAR values. Furthermore, it's possible to have the same colour temperature but have different light spectrum outputs

@@TropiscapeAquatics its high PAR because its over 120W and gets the plants pearling without any co2; I don't have a PAR meter but im guessing its hitting 100-150. The 3500k tube just fixes the visual spectrum because 6500k appears cold and doesn't show off the reds as much

You can, however, liquid CO2 is not a direct replacement for CO2. Furthermore, there are some plants that will die if they get in contact with liquid CO2. It will always be better and sometimes more cost-effective to use pressurized CO2.

Had a lot of fun putting together too!

I'm glad my videos were able to help in some way! As for the planting, it should be OK if they are not bound by something like string, lead weights, or rock wool. I usually plant stem plants in bunches of like 3 or 4 stems. Of course, that depends on how many stems I have of said plant. Another thing I do when planting is to wiggle the substrate a little as I pull the tweezers out. There are more techniques to planting specific types of plants. Green Aqua (IMO are one of the Gods of planted aquariums) has a video on planting: ua-cam.com/video/MGYLoaGv9jw/v-deo.html If uprooting is a concern, you might need to plant them a bit deeper and use more substrate to hold them down. That being said, keep an eye on them from time to time to make sure they are growing well. Let me know if you have any more questions!

It's not. However, it's something I can utilize for my specific build. There's no rule saying things need to be 3D printed. Your build can be completely different. It could be made out of wood instead. I just laid down the groundwork of the project, which is the ESP32 and LED strip setup.

Yeah, that was my main concern. I should have specified that I used IP65 rating LED strips. All that matters is that you enjoyed the process! 😊

I actually had issues finding g the clear nail polish lol! Luckily family members had one

Glad you enjoyed it!

More or less... Although, I'm have a project in the works that might have all three. Only issue is I don't know if it will work or not

I would say low phosphates