Відео

Consistency is more what I was getting at. The longer or less amount of light we give, that's out of the norm, the more plants (and algae) will undergo photosynthesis. Sometimes, this extra amount of photosynthesis could use up more CO2 and/or nutrients than are being provided, especially with tanks dosing a lean fertilizer. If we go under the amount of light, there may be excess amount of nutrients and if that abundance isn't removed via water changes, it will lead to algae growth. The same can be said if we go overboard, except plants will suffer due to no nutrient availability and if plants suffer, algae will overtake them. That being said, there is a something called the Siesta method, where you split the total amount of the light duration into "sections". While people have found success with this method, you still need to be consistent.

I switch back to my Chihiros WRGB 2. The reason is that the WRBG 2 is just much stronger, which is what I need for that tank. That being said, the light can still grow plants, I just needed a stronger light for my application. As for the power, cost comes into play. You can get the same performance or better for less LEDs with the same power supply. Increasing the current will require a different power supply that might be more costly

@ If I'm not wrong your adapter give 15A current but you only use 2.5A current right? Why can't just increase the current more?

@naanVimalSarminra the power supply I used is rated as 12V 5A, not 15A. So, no, I cannot use more current than that the power supply can provide. The reason I say 60 LED diodes is better than 144, is that the 60 LED strip requires less power to go to 100% brightness compared to the 144 one. The 144 strip might need a power supply that provides more Amps to get to 100% brightness, which may be more pricier.

@ thank you 😇

@@TropiscapeAquatics but how you connect 12v to your esp?😅 Also is the any difference between 5v led and 12v led

It might work, but if you plan to move stuff around, you might run into trouble where soil/compost can leach into the water column. I would play it safe and use a finer cap substrate, such as sand or fine gravel. Compost is a "hot" soil to use, which means that it can release a lot of ammonia into the water if you're not careful.

Yes, it is. As far as I know, it's only available on PC through Steam

There are actually a few good reasons as to why we should keep the substrate clean. I go in more detail in this video: ua-cam.com/video/hyNMv2o6A7c/v-deo.html That being said, the substrate is not the only place where beneficial bacteria can thrive. So, saying it removes all the beneficial bacteria isn't accurate, especially with the use of a filter that houses a lot of biological media. Detritus/mulm is decomposed organic matter or in the process of decomposed. Ammonia/Ammonium is a by product of the process of decomposition. Therefore, a high presence of detritus might mean that there's way too much organic matter dying, which can signal an unbalanced tank and leads to algae growth. That being said, I'm not going to deny that it provides nutrients for plants, but there are scenarios where a large accumulation of detritus can choke out plant roots, especially plants with delicate or small root systems, such as HC 'Cuba'. I've been having a lot of success with plant health since I started being more proactive with substrate cleaning. However, not every tank is the same, so there will be cases where substrate cleaning is not necessary at all.

@TropiscapeAquatics fair then. I prefer stronger plants that can feed on those excess nutrition, for weaker ones like cuba weeb, as you point out it might be ok the suck up the debris. For the case of amonia realeased into the water column by the decomposition of waste, I would prefer adding something that feeds on those 'floating' nutrition, like moss, fern or floating plants. 1 more big difference is I use river sand in my tanks, which might be better at trapping watse. Thats why I really never have any trouble with not cleaning the substrate. So maybe it is just the difference in types of plants and substrate that require different maintainance. P/s: I might be a bit critical, but really appreciate you for discussing. Have a nice day.

I would say, rather than using floating plants and the like, we should say 'fast-growing plants' instead. The faster a plant grows, the higher its nutrient uptake will be. I say this because there are some moss species that do not grow as fast as floating plants. For example, Fissidens fontanus (Phoenix Moss). I do think using sand or any other fine substrate will be better at trapping or holding down detritus. I believe this is a big contribution to why tanks that utilize deep sand beds work very well. But of course, deep sand beds won't work for every tank, especially ones that use plants with small root systems. Don't forget about another factor that will set our tanks apart, and that is CO2. I CO2 inject all of my tanks. The big factor that comes with CO2 injection is that plants do grow faster, which means they require more nutrients and/or lighting. Since they grow faster, the required maintenance will be way higher than tanks that are set up via the Walstad method or the Father Fish method. I also use the EI fertilizing method, which requires mandatory 50% or more water changes per week. PS: Be as critical as you want (as long as we're both not being complete jerks lmao)! I believe these kinds of critical analysis and discussion is important to any type of topic in order for people to share and gain a wide variety of knowledge, which in turn helps people and the community grow in a healthy way rather than being in echo chambers. I also appreciate you for being open-minded to the things I'm saying, as I've had a lot of discussions with other commenters that just say "You're wrong" and not explaining why or those that are closed-minded despite replying with a sound counterpoint.

There's a plethora of fertilizing methods out there that I didn't cover. One of them is called Poor Man's Dosing Drops (PMDD)

​@@TropiscapeAquaticsThat was one I thought would be included. But I do not really understand the difference between your pps method and Pmdd. Sounds like the same thing to me. Pmdd can be used in estimated index, which made me even more confused. In the end it is just about giving the plants what they need, isn't it?

I believe the main difference between EI and PMDD is that PMDD completely omits phosphates and relies on fish waste as a phosphorus source. Furthermore, it's dosed on the daily requirements of the tank rather than the total amount of nutrients given per week. This makes it so that PMDD does not 50% weekly water changes, similar to EI. PMDD is a little outdated, which is why I omitted it from the video. But, it did set the groundwork for our current methods. But it's as you said, in the end, it's all about giving the plants what they need for them to grow healthy.

@TropiscapeAquatics we have totally different ideas of what pmdd is. In think it is about using sheap agricultural fertilizers instead of expensive aquarium fertilizers. Not about how to dose it. I think I am doing pmdd, and I do use phosphate. I do fertilize daily, but have done it via estimated index dosing before. Today, I see no reason for big water changes in a planted tank that consumes everything I throw at it.

That's super interesting that you're using sheep agriculture fertilizers. I've never heard about anyone doing something like that before! That being said, I would say that all fertilizing methods come down to the exact nutrient values we are providing to plants rather than the fertilizer product. For example, EI dosing can also be done with "dry fertilizers", as in using the salts rather than a liquid mixture. The same can be said with lean dosing. The difference is the dosage we administer. Here are a few sources that talks about PMDD fertilizing: aquaplantscare.uk/pmdd-poor-mans-dosing-drops-how-to-apply-pmdd-method-in-planted-tank/ nilocg.com/blogs/news/best-dosing-methods-planted-tank-aquariums

CO2 has the ability to dissolved in water. In the planted tank world, plants utilize the amount of dissolved CO2

It indeed was not iron

Usually, filamentous algae indicates a CO2 or flow issue. In your case, the increase in nutrients probably lead to an increased need for in CO2, thus throwing off the balance. Anecdotally, I've found that adding more iron (1.0+ ppm) gave me better plant growth.

@TropiscapeAquatics I have good flow, but no co2, how to control it in low tech tanks without co2? I think you have a co2 injected tank for tolerating that much iron.. I also find, adding kno3 is nitrogen source, somehow seems to diminish plant growth..I have no idea why. Phosphate also seems to induce a transient iron deficiency with pale slow growing new growth... Iron and phosphate definitely are competing against one another..

@@Kingshukpalchoudhury The only real way to control the amount of CO2 you have is to reduce the amount of surface agitation, but be careful with this to not go too far where the surface film is very dense. Otherwise, there are low-tech methods, such as the Walstad method, that relies on CO2 being generated from the soil. I do have a CO2 injected tank, but it's more on the amount of plants I have in it that it goes through a lot of nutrients. KNO3 is the usual source for nitrogen in many aquarium fertilizers. As for Iron and Phosphate, they do create a precipitate that completely makes both the iron and phosphate unabsorbable (FePO4). That being said, it also depends on the type of iron being used. If I remember correctly, chelated iron prevents it from bonding with phosphate, which is why you see AIO fertilizer's containing both nutrients.

I use DaVinci Resolve as my main video editing software. As for the effects and all that, a lot of them are assets that I purchased. The main idea for editing has a lot to deal with the tempo and flow of information, both visually and mentally. Check out Hillier Smith. He is one of the main editing people on UA-cam that I learn from. Same goes for Finzar. While they both use different editing software, the same principles/fundamentals apply. There's a lot of more editing stuff that I felt was lacking in this video of mine...

@ I’ll check out those channels, thanks so much for your advice! Don’t be too hard on your own work either, you have a really novel presentation style, especially for the fishkeeping landscape where a large portion of content has very minimal editing (if any at all). I’ve made highly-edited gaming content for a few years (on a different account, of course) and am now preparing to transition into the fishkeeping sphere. Learning all I can before I put it into practice!

@fish2759 If you've got some editing questions and all that, feel free to contact me in my discord channel! The invite links are usually in the descriptions

@ Massive appreciate that, will do when I get into production! Still in the early stages of branding atm, haha

Oof

Any floating plants will work, such as red root floaters

You can use WS2812B, but the reason why I went with SK6812 is due to them having the extra white channel. WS2812B = RGB SK6812 = RBGW As for the rows, definitely two or more rows if you have the space for two rows. Just remember that more LEDs = more heat. You'll need to have an adequate heat sink if you use a lot of LEDs.

is there huge difference in between ws2812B and sk6812

Basically, SK has the additional white channel (RGBW), while WS is just RGB. A lot of high-end aquarium lights use RGBW LEDs

Pogostemon Helferi is more easily accessible. I can easily get it through Tropica. On the other hand, Pogostemon Helferi 'White Line' is the rarer variant of it.

Rotala Bonsai, Staurogyne Repens, and any carpeting plants, such as Dwarf Hairgrass, and Monte Carlo

For me I use aquasoil, I reccomend💦

@WaterWhim so do I

Rotala are root feeders, so having a nutrient rich substrate would really help. Root tabs can also be used if you can't source aquasoil. That being said, it also depends on the Rotala species. The fast-growing variants will use up more nutrients in the substrate compared to slow growing ones, such as Rotala Florida.

Happy New Year!!!

I use the tube just like you would also regular syphon/gravel vac. It works. I just have to be careful not to pick up sand

I do the same with my 5 Gal as well! The only thing I hate is that airline tubing can easily get clogged...

@TropiscapeAquatics yeah that's the only drawback 😭

Bolloks

Would it work? Possibly. Is it something to try? Sure, but do be aware that plants undergo respiration when the lights are off, which is essential for plant health and growth. I wouldn't recommend something like this, but rather a different method called the "Siesta Method". Essentially, you split the total amount of time the lights are on and spread it out during the day. For example, for an 8-hour lighting period, it can be split like this: 4 hrs on - 4 hrs off - 4 hrs on and then the rest is off. I would not change the lighting intensity for something like this. There technically is not an upper limit for when the light is turned off, as long as you reach the 8-hour goal within a 24-hour time period.

@TropiscapeAquatics thanks for the quick response. Ok, I will keep the lights on for around 8 hours a day. But during that time the intensity should be 100%?

Depends on a few factors. 1. Your plants (slow-growing vs fast-growing) 2. CO2 injection (if any) 3. Fertilizing method (EI vs Lean) 4. Plant density 5. Intensity can vary with different models I wouldn't run lights at 100%, especially if you don't have fast-growing plants. If you want to try to find out a good intensity value, start low at say 50% or so, see how your plants react for about 1.5 or 2 weeks, and then adjust either lower or higher. Basically, you're trying to find a balance between CO2, lighting, and nutrients. I go in more detail with balancing in this video: ua-cam.com/video/fi7aCcY0SR0/v-deo.html

I wouldn't say it's flow causing the issues, but rather something to deal with either nutrients, CO2, or lighting.

Yup!

It seems like the only plants that I can grow are vallisneria and anacharis for now, because I also tried with java fern but the light seemed too much for it, so now I'm growing it emersed, and hygrophila corymbosa also died.

Amazon swords and Hygrophila Corymbosa are both heavy root feeders, so having adequate substrate fertilization is a must. That being said, if the Amazon sword is a new addition, it might be adjusting to its new environment, causing the melting of leaves, especially if they were grown emersed. If one of them doesn't have roots, that's plant might not be able to grow properly. There's still a chance that it can develop root, but it's slim. As for the water parameters, 28C is a bit too high for some plants. I find 24C to be a sweet spot for my tanks. That being said, if you have livestock that require those temperatures, then don't bother changing the temps. Of course, there's more to plant growth than just nutrients and water parameters. You also have to factor in your lighting as well. Longer hours of light will make plants use up more fertilizer and any available CO2. Light intensity also plays a similar role. As for Java Fern, make sure to only bury the roots and not the rhizome. Burying the rhizomes will lead to plant death.

If you care to know the amount of dislikes it has, it has 17 dislikes.

Honestly, the pump that comes with the tank itself is fine for what it can do. If you do want more power, then any pump that has more than 132 GPH would suffice.

Interesting... I use 100% gelatin capsules and not "vegan" capsules. Gelatin is inert, so it won't have any effects on anything that I know of. I assume this is what Nilocg uses for their root tabs rather than bovine capsules, but I could be wrong about that.