Відео

C'mon man, you're just being lazy... I went over important water parameters that you should know about. Every tank and every plant species have different requirements. It's up to you to find the correct parameters to create the environment you wish. This video gives you the knowledge, and now it's up to you to apply it.

Lmao, you're welcome!

Technically, I could have a bare-bones tank that has no light and is just full of water and that would be considered an algae free tank. But then again, that's going into the semantics of things and that's not fun lmao

It's more about finding that balance for a tank rather than straight up using CO2. There are tons of tanks out there that don't use CO2 injection and are able to have virtually no algae present in their tank. Furthermore, I think HITH disease is more prevalent in certain fish species compared to others. I've had activated carbon sitting in filters for more than a few months and I never had any issues when it comes to HITH disease. I've mainly kept guppies and tetras. As far as I know, those aren't susceptible to HITH disease as compared to Flowerhorn's or other cichlids.

Nice

Nice work! 👍

Close. It's Persicaria sp. "Sao Paulo"

great video btw 🫶🫶🫶

Capsules won't be necessary. I usually sprinkle it on the bare glass bottom before setting up anything. This can be done with any type of substrate as well! Just make sure to have enough substrate that it keeps the beads from breaching the surface. If you're worried about leeching, you can periodically do water tests. Just be aware that you'll get ammonia spikes from the start. That being said, I'm not sure how well GolfGreen fertilizer will do. It's a gamble as there could be an inorganic chemical that isn't safe for aquatic use. Definitely search to see if others have done it before with that fert brand. If there aren't any, you could try being the first!

@@TropiscapeAquatics Thanks!!

Usually during weekly maintenance, unless there's a lot of visible detritus build up.

Cladophora would technically fall into the filamentous algae section. However, it's a different kind of beast on its own that makes it fall into a filamentous sub-category. The typical solutions for filamentous algae might not work for Cladophora... I made a video about Cladophora that you can watch here: ua-cam.com/video/AhAlV19YgQ4/v-deo.html

Yup! Number of drops = degrees of KH/GH. As for the shrimp, the water could possibly be a bit too hard. However, I believe neocaridina shrimp prefer harder water, so I think you should be fine. If you're worried, you could do a 50/50 mix of distilled water and tap water when you do any water changes

To some extent. If you're not injecting CO2, then you can lower surface agitation, but I wouldn't completely eliminate it. Especially if there's a lot of surface scum. It also depends on how much CO2 is being naturally generated in the tank. That being said, it's always worth a shot to test it yourself and note down your observations

I also have one of those! Who knew such a small gadget could pack quite a punch!

Dutch style isn't that hard to scape. Its difficulty is with maintaining its look and the maintaining plant health. It can be a little difficult long term from my experience

Considering it's my first project with electronics and Arduino's. It was a little overwhelming at first. But as I started playing around with it, it became a little simple. Minus the mistakes lmao

@@TropiscapeAquatics Solid work! Especially considering you had to learn 3D modeling and some coding as well!

It's hard to tell. The best advice I can give is when you do your water changes, you should replace it with water that has the GH/KH that you're aiming for. Eventually, things will be how you wanted. The reason for why I would do it over a longer period of time rather than all at once is to prevent any shock to any livestock or plants due to the sudden water chemistry change.

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Yup, that is one of them as well, despite it not being in this list.

That would definitely work! However, I made another one for my 5 Gallon tank. It needs to be dosed for less than a second...

@@TropiscapeAquatics still doable if you dilute the solution to the proper concentration :D Even you can use less voltage, probably the motor will work with it, but spin in a lower rate.

I'm happy someone enjoyed all of those things! I wasn't expecting much, especially in this hobby/niche!

There are guides on making your own fertilizers using dry ferts/salts. They can generally be cheaper than buying liquid ferts. However, depending on your location, it might be difficult to obtain the ingredients. Other than that, I don't recommend using any garden liquid fertilizers for aquariums.

Glad you enjoyed it! 😊

Let me know if you have any issues with it!

It's more or less trying to find that balance for your tank. At the time of that video, the tank was running low on the nutrients side, all while CO2 and lighting were in check, thus it was off balance. Switching to EI helped, but of course, there's more to it for clado when it comes to controlling it. Basically, focus on plant health and a stable tank environment rather than focusing on the algae itself. If you do plan to switch over to EI, make sure you follow the directions and don't touch any of the other variables (lighting and CO2). You don't want to influence too many things that might make the tank more unstable. However, if you do adjust more than one variable at a time, and it ends up working, you have no idea what exactly solved the issue. I usually have a minimum testing period of 2 weeks.

There's no difference in how to use this test kit between freshwater and saltwater. That being said, one drop = 1 dKH.

Aquasoil will eventually deplete. Sure, it may be able to absorb some nutrients, but the amount will not be enough for it to regenerate back to 100%. Furthermore, aquasoil will degrade overtime, as in it will eventually turn to mush. This mush, especially when it piles up at the bottom of the tank, can lead to messy situations like in the video. The 12 gallon tank in the video is running an Eheim 2213 canister filter. It is definitely sufficient for filtration. Of course, its efficiency can also vary depending on its cleanliness. There's also various types of plants that benefit way more when actively cleaning the substrate. Hygrophila sp. 'Chai' and Rotala ramosior 'Florida' are two that come to mind.

The mush should be cleaned up by the filter, aqua soil doesn't deplete. yes plant growth can be so strong that they pull nutrients to fast for aqua soil to recover but I mean replacing it will just lead straight back to that same situation very quickly. I'm sorry but the actual issue you had here was that your tank was so dirty the debris starved your roots. Which means bad filtration 🤷 the type of filtration you have is completely meaningless if it's not actually taking the debris out of your tank and they're building up in your substrate. Plants wouldn't need the substrate cleaning if the filter is good eough to pull the debris out

Do you have any sources for your claims? I would love to do some further reading on the topic, as the major consensus is that aquasoil will eventually deplete over time, but can take years for this to happen, but that depends on the aquasoil being used. (For reference, my tank has been running for 2 years, almost 3 now). Furthermore, I believe that it also depends on the water column fertilizing technique. As in, using an EI based fertilizer vs Lean based fertilizer. That being said, I also did some further research of my own. When it comes to nutrient depletion in aquasoil, it was surprising to learn that some elements, such as iron, increased overtime. Although, the same cannot be said about copper and especially nitrogen. Source: barrreport.com/barr-report-resources/old-newsletters/ADA-Aqua-Soil-Power-Soil-Analysis-Barr-Report.pdf Here's another source for the benefits of substrate maintenance, especially when it comes to growing more sensative plants: www.2hraquarist.com/blogs/substrates-overview/aquasoil-substrate-maintenance Filters will not be able to catch 100% of organic material, no matter the type of filtration used. This is true if things like food, decaying matter, and fish waste get trapped in places where there is weak water flow or obstruction caused by hardscape and/or plant mass. Furthermore, detritus is not necessarily a bad thing to have given how it can provide plants with some nutrients, albeit not as much as liquid fertilization. Obviously, when there's too much, it's not beneficial at all. It's more the environment that the large amount of debris created that choked out plant roots rather than the debris itself.

While I agree that natural sunlight is the best kind of light, this video is more about LED lighting and what to look out for when shopping for LED lights. Plus, not everyone has a place that gets natural sunlight, especially when it comes to their location, weather, and seasonal changes. However, I'm going to kindly disagree with what you said when it comes to CRI. You can have a light that has a low CRI rating, but is able to still grow plants well. There are fluorescent lights out there that have a low CRI rating, yet they are able to grow difficult plants. Personally, CRI is something for us and not for plants. As in, we can choose a light that renders tank in a way that we personally like. Plants care more about spectrum and PAR values rather than CRI and D50/D65 variables. This link here goes a bit more in-depth on CRI and planted aquariums: www.2hraquarist.com/blogs/light-3pillars/what-about-cri

More or less. The same tactic of manual removal, keeping tank relatively clean, healthy plants, etc. will still apply in your case

I don't think it has anything to do with having a Walstad style tank. It's more on having little to no surface agitation, which I'm assuming is the case for you, as Walstad style tanks generally don't use any filters. You can try running an air stone, however, this might not be beneficial due to gaseous exchange and CO2 leaving the tank. I made a video about this here: ua-cam.com/video/RhjAtNICAjY/v-deo.html

@@TropiscapeAquatics I have a nano canister filter, and it's making a little bit of waves. It could also be that I am feeding low grade food. I was feeding my singular fish tubifex in the start and had no film, but after i swapped to flakes, i started getting the film. I may try to swap back to tubifex and see if that helps.

@@SkyfishArt The food could be it. Surface film is a by-product of have high organic content in the water. You could try feeding less and see if it helps.