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So you judge a cameras ability from images in a compressed video on youtube, not wise. My wife shoots with a Sony A7R4 so I have a good basis of comparison. I am very satisfied with the images I am getting. Depth of field is an ongoing issue for some people but it is just as often a bonus as a fault. I can get a whole bird in focus and not just the eyeball. Having said all that you probably don't want this camera as you seem to have already made up your mind.

Glad I could help. Hand held assist is a great help when doing long exposure

Thanks

Thanks for the comments. Unfortunately WIX, where we do our website, strips all metadata from images. I can tell you early on we shot exclusively olympus so those images were all olympus. My wife got into birding so bought a Nikon D500 for the better autofocus but now the OM1 has changed all that as it is great for birds (she currently uses a Sony A7R4 and the 200-600). I do the website so use my images first and just use my wifes for something I missed so images are at least 90% oly images. Reality is with that with the OM1 and using noise reduction software you really would be hard pressed to see the difference. This image www.travellingseniors.com/panamabirdingtrip?lightbox=dataItem-lgsa0szq4 is ISO 12800, great color an lots of detail. All the night sky images are with the OLY as my shots. I have not used the G92 so can't really compare but what I have seen others say the OM1 is a better stills camera and the Panasonic a better video camera although both cameras are capable in all areas. Oly has more computational features, one I love is the live ND and it is useful, I did a video on this. I hope this all helps and I am not the least bit envious of my wifes full frame camera, especially when travelling or on a long hike.

10 sec is extreme but 1 o2 not so hard with the OM1. Faster moving water doesn't need as slow a shutter speed so eaier.

@@Travelingseniors-xt9yh I agree about 1 or 2 secs! I have to the OM1 -Mii and it now has the ND128. Waiting for a trip to test the waterfall shots.

As the cameras you mentioned are much more expensive you should get something for your money. Having said that my wife uses a A7R4. When we show images at our photo club no one can tell which camera is used. Unless using very high ISO, printing large or you like to pixel peep OM1 images are fine. I also have a waterfall video where I use Line ND and hand hold a 10 sec shot with sharp results. Don't think the cameras you mentioned can do that. OM1 makes things fun.

Hi I am sure there are lots of thoughts on fps. I think I am getting to shots I want at 25fps so will stay there. At 50 fps you will fill the buffer faster and twice as many images to look at.

Thanks for the comment, I have now had the OM1 for 2 years now and recently to it to Argentina. It has not disaapointed me.

Thanks for the comment, I hope the information is useful. The OM1 is a very versitile camera but complicated.

EM1-3 is fine for general photography but not even close for fast action. Depends on your needs but I love my OM1.

@@Travelingseniors-xt9yh Thank you sir.

Hi, The way to do this I set the position 1 all points active than set set the lever to position 2 and change it to single point active . Than set the C1 ( or which one you are assigning to) and it should now remember this setting anytime you go to that custom settings. This article talks about setting custom settings. Similar to what I use but not exactly. learnandsupport.getolympus.com/learn-center/photography-tips/birds/my-om-1-custom-settings-for-bird-photography#:~:text=After%20you%20get%20the%20base,Set'%20to%20commit%20the%20settings.

Hi, I should have mentioned I always shoot Manual for birds so I have maximum control. I can control Aperature and Shutter Speed with the dials. Auto ISO controls exposure but why you need a button for exposure compensation when conditions dictate.

Thanks for the positive comment. I have no personal experience with the 100-400 but cannot see why it is different. It does not have synch IS so important to keep shutter speed up. My camera is set to center priority but when using bird detection I dont think it matters. The 300F4 with th 1.4TC lives on my camera as I find no hit to performance. I do have the 2XTC but it does have a hit to performance so I only use it on a really bright day.

Thanks for the positive comment. We enjoyed Panama when we were there and ope you do as well.

Not quite sure what you are refering to but most of the time subject detection works best with all points active. How many active points depends on the scene and the speed of the action.

I set my shitter speed so it costs in ISO. This is a definite disadvantage and depends on the available light.

Thanks for such a nice compliment.

Glad it could help. I really like my OM1.

Thanks for this.

I think we are really lucky to have so many good cameras available to us right now. I will be travelling to Argentina and Chile this upcoming year and many of the in country planes are smaller with more restictive weight limits. This is where this system really shines.

Thanks for the comment, we really did enjoy Panama. It shares many similarities to Costa Rica. Many of he species are not called endemic as they are found in more than one country, They are however regional endemic as they are found only in this region. Birds do not understand borders.

Thanks for the comment. We went to Panama last February and enjoyed it very much. I would say at least a third of the images were in deep cloud forest and a couple of days in the rain so light was an issue and lots of high ISO shooting. I really appreciated my F4 lens as my wife with her Sony 200-600 is 6.3 at the long end her ISOs were more than twice mine. She would often compensate with slower shutter speeds. You will get lots of shots with motion blur so just shoot lots of images and hopefully one will be sharp. You only need one. I can get really close with my olympus 300F4 so I used that eben for frogs and butterflies so can't help you with a suggestion their. Good luck with your trip.

Thanks for the comment. I shoot hummingbird birds 1/2500, the rest the same. The trick is to shoot as they approach the flower as they slow down. I am envious of your new lens, have fun. I am 65 and yes still learning all the time. I hope that helps keep our minds sharp.

Thanks for the comment. I totally agree.

Thanks or the commnt. Not really sure which image you refer to the red crest, but things like this always a matter of taste. As for flash on birds, this is something many object to on ethical grounds. I have a good flash, I will not use it on birds (many pros agree). Global shutter is the "holy grail" but in the mean time if you want fast bursts mechanical shutter cannot deliver. It does not matter how good your anticpation you cannot anticipate wing position. There is a reason people want these fast burst rates and it is a selling feature. Noise is an interesting one. I do not disagree with you but as cameras get better, peoples expectations just get higher.

Thanks for the compliment.

This was a really tough edit as lot's of detail in the tail so tough to select. I have redone the tail. More practice improves technique.

Thanks for the catch

Thanks for the comment.

Glad if it was able to help.

I do not know if you have to have the latest vesion of Topaz but this is from their site. support.topazlabs.com/article/134-the-recommended-raw-workflow-in-lightroom-classic

@@Travelingseniors-xt9yh Thanks.... I have Topaz Denoise not the AI and it does not look like the same feature is available. Will explore further.

Interesting. This feature may be limited to their latest versions.

@@Travelingseniors-xt9yh Possible, although I did the latest update and omit regularly.

Interesting. I have the dot sight and never foind it very useful but never tried it on the 300 with 2X TC.

Thanks for the compliment.

Yes. I shoot in manual with auto ISO and 25 fps.

thanks

I also love my OM1. I am very envious of your new lens, enjoy.

There are so many good videos on youtube just look for some. One person I highly recommend is ua-cam.com/users/anthonymorganti

We are so lucky to have great camera gear from all the companies, great time to be a photographer. For me as the name implies I am a retired senior that likes to travel. Getting lens like the 7-14 F2.8, 12-40 f2.8, 40-150 f2.8, 300f4, plus a 1.4 TC and 2.0 TC and all my accerories into a backpack that easily fits in a planes overhead compartment seals the deal for me.

I believe they are the same bird.

Thanks for the compliment.

Thank you!

I was the same. Used the MC20 with 40-150 but not 300. The OM1 is a very different camera though.

Glad you enjoyed it!

I am working on a postprocessing video. Soon.

Hi, and thanks for the comment. There are many opinions on how to set the camera and I will not say mine is best but I am having success with my settings. First I have assigned my birds in flight, BIF, to my custom 2 settings for my camera. I can just select C2 and know my camera is always ready. When I select C2 my camera will be in manual; maximum aperature (regardless of lens), 1/2500 of a second shutter speed, auto ISO, Sh2 at 25 frames per second, bird detection on, and all focus points active (I find the bird detect works well so prefere all points active). I have my exposure compensation set to +.7 as BIF usually need this. Having said that I have set my camera so I can change all these settings quickly as needed. Regardless of how you set your camera you just need to practise so you do not have to think about how to make adjustments it becomes automatic. BIF action is usually fast. I suggest practicing to start with bigger slower moving birds. Ducks or geese taking off from a pond work well for practice.

@@Travelingseniors-xt9yh thanks, I guess your right that it’s more me than the camera since I use almost the same settings as you. The difference is that I mostly shoot with 10 fps and only use SH2 occasionally due to the vast amount of pictures to cull through. Will try SH2 more and see what results I get. 😊

I will add that I use backbutton focus so will continuously focus on the subject but when shooting something like humminbirds in my backyard I will just shoot quick bursts of 5 or 6 images as it approaches a flower. When shooting something I will not ever see again like the Bateleur eagle in Kenya I will just shoot. My longest burst was 250 images. Out of this there was maybe 10 keepers tat I really liked. This takes different treatment in lightroom. I put the capital lock on than I will just hit X for reject and P for keep and it jumps to the next picture. In Kenya I shot 2-3000 images a day and could cull that to 2-300 in less than an hour each evening. Just takes disipline and be prepared to reject all but the best. At the end of the day if we have 2 or 3 really good images I am happy.

@@Travelingseniors-xt9yh Hi, I also use BBF but mostly 10fps. I must try 25 as well as Pro capture more not least due to the blackout free shooting and more pics to choose from. Must admit that I sometimes find it har to reject photos but am pushing myself to be “tougher” which is necessary with 2-3 times as many pics to go through.

Thanks for the comment. Love the 300 but needs practice with not being able to zoom out.

Thanks for the compliment. I usually cary the TC in my bag but when I hike I clip it to my belt loop where I hopefully would see if it came unhooked.

I glad you found this helpful. The OM1 is a great camera but has so many settings available. Be sure to try the high rez and live ND. Seem like gimics but do work well.