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Practically Stock
Приєднався 26 лис 2015
dreamteampro.e@gmail.com
Cooling System Overhaul | 8.1L Suburban 2500
Replacing the front and rear heater hoses on the 2002 suburban 2500. Also replaced the radiator with an aluminum one. The belts and tensioner are also replaced. I made metal fittings to replace the plastic heater hose fittings.
Переглядів: 124
Відео
Custom $150 Driveshaft for the 280ZX
Переглядів 47Місяць тому
The driveshaft is from a 1994 corvette. The yoke is modified from a 1999 4x4 Tahoe. The combination u-joint is from Neapco. The 1310 to R200 flange is from JTR. The corvette driveshaft had to be shortened but lets the 6 speed manual drive the Datsun 280zx differential.
Modified Headers for the 280ZX
Переглядів 412 місяці тому
Modifying a set of headers to put a 350 in the 280ZX
Blower Motor Won't Turn On | S10 Blazer
Переглядів 1222 місяці тому
The blower motor or fan on the s10 blazer would not come on. Found out the issue was voltage drop at the switch prevent enough current from getting to the relay to turn it on.
S10 Front Differential Oil Change | 92 S10
Переглядів 1663 місяці тому
Draining the oil from the chevy s10 front diff. Should be same for a GMC s15.
Running a HEI 8 pin Distributor with MegaSquirt 2 | 280ZX
Переглядів 1154 місяці тому
Modified the MS2 (megasquirt 2) computer to run a chevy TBI distributor that uses the GM HEI 8 pin module. Also finished the wiring for the distributor.
Rebuilding a Blown Up Dana 44 | 68 GMC
Переглядів 234 місяці тому
The dana 44 in the 1968 gmc broke and this is the ordeal of trying to rebuild it. 00:00 Intro 01:08 Helpful Info 03:45 Damage Assessment 11:29 Wear Gloves 13:33 Beginning of Rebuild 15:31 Custom Sleeves 22:20 Back to the Rebuild 23:37 Oil Flow 27:30 Installing Races and Bearings 34:20 Struggling 39:17 A Good Pattern 42:28 Final Assembly 51:32 Initial Testing
R12 to R134a Conversion | 92 S10
Переглядів 2,3 тис.4 місяці тому
Converting the r12 ac system in the s10 blazer to r134 a. R134 conversion. Converting from r12 to r134.
Sizing a Clutch Slave Cylinder for the New Transmission | 280zx
Переглядів 845 місяців тому
Matching a slave cylinder to the master cylinder and clutch for a transmission swap. The Master cylinder is for a 280zx, slave is for a 1997 nissan truck, and the transmission is from a corvette. This is a custom clutch setup to adapt the 280zx master cylinder to the corvette transmission
Transmission Install | JTR Chevy to 280ZX Swap Part 2 of 2
Переглядів 1426 місяців тому
This is Part 2 of using the Jags That Run (JTR) swap kit to put a chevy small block V8 in a datsun nissan 280zx. This covers installing the ZF S640 into the 280zx
Engine Mounts and Oil Pan Modification | JTR Chevy to 280ZX Swap Kit Part 1 of 2
Переглядів 1366 місяців тому
This is Part 1 of using the Jags That Run (JTR) swap kit to put a chevy small block V8 in a datsun nissan 280zx. This includes installing the motor mounts and modifying the oil pan.
(Reupload) Rear Suspension and Rust Repair | 280ZX
Переглядів 1107 місяців тому
Rust repair and suspension work on the 1983 280zx
Temporary Fuel Pressure Test Port for a TBI | 92 S10
Переглядів 5517 місяців тому
This is how I checked the fuel pressure on a 1992 chevy TBI. This isn't the best way of checking fuel pressure, but it was the most reasonable in my situation.
What is the point of the 280zx?
Переглядів 1698 місяців тому
Talking about the goals of the project and what I am trying to do with the 1983 280zx.
Power Steering Pump ReSeal | 92 S10 Blazer
Переглядів 3079 місяців тому
Fixing a leaking power steering pump on the chevy S10. "Rebuild" of a power steering pump by replacing seals and inspecting the internals.
ZF S6-40 Tailshaft and Driveshaft Yoke Repair | 280ZX
Переглядів 20610 місяців тому
ZF S6-40 Tailshaft and Driveshaft Yoke Repair | 280ZX
Vacuum to Cable Climate Control | 280zx
Переглядів 29711 місяців тому
Vacuum to Cable Climate Control | 280zx
4x4 S10 Oil Pan Removal and Repair | 92 S10 Blazer
Переглядів 2,9 тис.Рік тому
4x4 S10 Oil Pan Removal and Repair | 92 S10 Blazer
(Updated Again...) Rebuilding the front end | 280zx
Переглядів 327Рік тому
(Updated Again...) Rebuilding the front end | 280zx
Resealing the 4L60E and Troubleshooting No 2nd and 4th gear | 68 GMC
Переглядів 2,8 тис.Рік тому
Resealing the 4L60E and Troubleshooting No 2nd and 4th gear | 68 GMC
Start and Drive After 8 years | 1970 Pontiac Grand Prix
Переглядів 2,1 тис.Рік тому
Start and Drive After 8 years | 1970 Pontiac Grand Prix
Last Rust Repair... For Real This Time | 280zx
Переглядів 796Рік тому
Last Rust Repair... For Real This Time | 280zx
Megasquirt II PWM Radiator Fan Control | 280zx
Переглядів 7132 роки тому
Megasquirt II PWM Radiator Fan Control | 280zx
I had a 1980 280ZX. Drove it hard for lots of years.. no issues. Had to put one clutch in it and about 4 sets of brake pads. Great car. I would have power washed this pig for a few days before beginning to work on it
My 92 gmc k1500 v6 started running high oil pressure, then dropped one day, and it's sitting on zero once the oil heats up, not much more than that cold lol
That's weird, maybe the sensor? Or if it is actually low, maybe the bypass in the pump?
@@PracticallyStock I was think I would replace the sensor first since it's less than 20 bucks, just not sure how hard it is change, I've worked on cars my whole life, but my dad was a master mechanic, so I had no fear, till cancer took him in 2013, I just haven't had the confidence in myself for major jobs since, makes a difference when you can make a phone call, and can have someone walk you through anything, the truck I'm driving was his 1992 gmc k1500 slx heavy half WT 4.3 5 spd ext cab 4x4 with the black on red gmc classic paint, my dad looked for years to find that particular truck, and although he cared nothing for sports, he was super excited that it came from John Elway chevrolet lol Oh and the 1992 truck has 180,000 miles on it lol
Hey would you please let me know what service manual that is? Seems very in depth im looking for something more in depth than the ones i have
I have the 1992 Service Manual for S-10 Models. It's the factory service manual bought through GM number ST-369-92. It has a lot of info in it but the wiring info is marginal, I think there was another book for that
Thank you for the detailed video. Really useful.
What sbc is that exactly? Ive got an l31vortec im trying to attach to a zf s6-40
I'm using a 92 305 for test fitting everything. The actual motor will have an early 90's 350 block. The 1986 and newer SBC1 (includes the L31) and the SBC2 LT1 (what the ZFs6-40 came with) can use the same transmission. The 1985 and older engines cannot use the same flywheel due to the different rear main. This video where I put the clutch together shows the different rear main seals ua-cam.com/video/oemJP3za1yI/v-deo.html
Check the C/K relationship.
I had a lot of problems with the coil wiring not the coil wire. When you have it running pull on the wiring at the coil.
Does it backfire?
No, it had a dead spot in the throttle where the car ran really bad but it would always run normal if I kept the throttle below or past that problematic point. The issue was the TPS had a bad spot where it was telling the computer the TBI was at 0% throttle when it was really about 15%. That tricked the computer into cutting back fuel and making the engine lean and miss
@@PracticallyStock we built a garage in 59 sold it in 17 . My brother died about a year after we retired so I went back to work for the people that bought it. It just wasn’t the same. It’s hard to take orders when you know it’s not going to help so I retired for good about a year later.
Understandable. I hope your retirement is going well!
I can't find heater core mounting brackets for a 71 gmc 1500 (67-72 chevy pickups) w/o AC. A previous owner removed the upper bolts, then bent / broke the plastic box to get at the heater core. They also failed to reinstall the mounting brackets. I put a fiberglass tilt nose on the truck and removed the fender wells, so access is not a problem for me. I'm replacing it with a Goodmark metal (not plastic) heater box, new blower motor, etc. but can only find brackets for the core with AC.
Might have to find someone on marketplace who has a parts truck you can get them from. Or maybe try making a set. Sucks that they are not easier to find
@@PracticallyStock Yeah, my ex-fiancée used to call me "Bracket Man". Looks like it's going to be "Bracket Man" to the rescue. "Once you resort to customization - EVERYTHING becomes EASY." No biggie, it's already highly customized - narrowed and tubbed, fuel cell in the bed, twin big block radiators in the nose, and the tilt fiberglass nose (converted to lift-off). Unfortunately, there's not much room for brackets around the side tanks given the way the tubes come out the ends of the tanks. Some thick aluminum sheet metal, some quality time with the aviation shears, a few holes and a couple of bends, and I should be good to go. I can use the screws from the "with AC" brackets.
Awesome, I’m about to do this to mine!! How much fluid does it take & which type did you use, same a rear?
I though I got it from my service manual, but I can't find the info now. I think I bought 3 quarts of synthetic 75w-90 but I won't swear to it. If the old fluid looks really gross like mine did, you may be better off going with the cheapest cheap oil for a few quick oil changes just to flush it
@@PracticallyStock Manual states 80w-90 which is what I ordered.
ever figure out what was wrong with that thing
The bog/violent missing right off idle was being caused by a faulty TPS. The TPS had a dead spot and would trick the computer into cutting fuel and freak the whole system out. The video shows how I tested the new and old TPS
This video helped me realize i had to pull mine back out… same issue. Thx for the bad news but she’s working now.
Thanks for letting me know it helped, made my day. Glad you got it going again
Wow you sure did a lot of welding good job though man I have a 1983 280ZX that I have to restore and I can't believe how rusted these vehicles get but it's a lot of work I'm going to do the restoration with my grandson and I think it'll be a good time anyway wanted to know what kind of engine are you going to put in it
Thanks! Yeah I can't believe how these rust. I'm going to put what will hopefully be a fairly stout 350 chevy in it. The transmission is a 6 speed manual from a 94 corvette so it should cruise at 75 about 2200rpm even with the 3.90 rear gear. I have a video on locating the trans and engine already out but the video for the motor is probably still a month or two away. I hope you and your grandson have a good time working on your Z!
@PracticallyStock wow your z is going to be a beast I had a 89 corvette with the multi-port fuel injection and it was very fast . That is awesome. I can't wait to see your z with finish.
Very good job, very good post!! I have a 1983 280ZX
Nice, hopefully yours is less rusty! Thanks for the feedback
considering the year of the truck and the mileage the original engine probably failed under warranty or a dealership lube tech messed something up and they got a free engine.
Good chance that's what happened
I meant Datsun
We were just getting the car going for the owner. They were trying to get rid of stuff, I don't remember for certain what it sold for but I want to say 8k???
And you are so lucky that's a rare find to find a dachshund in that condition with so low miles and to make it all vast 10th anniversary you are one lucky guy let me know how much did you pay for it just to make it even better
You should never start it specially with that old gas that's in there it turns into varnish and will mess up all your injectors you could have disconnected the intake fuel line in the return and used a plastic gallon fresh gas
I forget how long it had been sitting but I'm pretty sure it was less than 10 years so we weren't concerned about bad gas. Usually I give it a smell and that hasn't led me astray yet lol
That is the best 280ZX there was specially the 10th anniversary has all the good things and Extras and even leather seats how much should you get for it I meant how much did you give for it
isnt that shock absorber upside down?
I'm not sure it matters one way or the other. I like the rod towards the top so it doesn't get as much road debris on it and potentially wear the seal out faster
Howdy! I am mostly done with my LS Swap for my 1981 Datsun 280zx and I want to mimic what you did with your gauges, are the gauges you bought the ones for the 70-78 Datsun? I also saw you're willing to mail the parts you 3D printed?
Congrats on being mostly done! I hope to be there someday lol. I'm not aware of any specific gauge sets for Z's like the one you mention. I bought the universal green bar graph set from Intellitronix which included the gauges, black acrylic, and most of the hardware. This project was a bit of an undertaking and there are definitely improvements that can be made over how I did it. The fitment and gauge centering is also not fantastic. If the files and everything are good, I can try printing another set. I'll let you know how that goes
@@PracticallyStock how has that gone? 🤔
@@PracticallyStockdid you get it printed yet boss man? 🤔
Sorry, I didn't get a notification you had replied. Shoot me an email at dreamteampro.e@gmail.com and I'll give you some more info on the prints to make sure they are what you want. I do have a set printed
@dragonxxx285 Sorry, I didn't get a notification you had replied. Shoot me an email at dreamteampro.e@gmail.com and I'll give you some more info on the prints to make sure they are what you want. I do have a set printed
Great video nice work. I'm doing same thing to my 67 k 10 tomorrow.
Nice. Only issue I've had is if the pump is not used for a long time (numerous months), something dries in the pump and prevents it from turning. I took it out and tapped it on the ground which knocked out the dried stuff and that fixed it
is it for sale?
I don't know but I doubt it, we got this car going as a favor to someone and never heard about the car after it got picked up
@@PracticallyStockcheck pliz ....
I would if I could, I don't have a way of reaching the owner
@@alendovzan6768 I have one for sale. Almost complete. Parts are all included. Just needs to be completed. 1 Kilometer on the odometer. Central Valley California
Excellent video. I notice that the inside of the hub where the outer bearing sits was scared slightly from the punch when taking the outer bearing race out. I scared up the inner bearing race surface pretty bad with the punch I used. It was stubborn. I used some emery to smooth it up but it has some "dents' in in it. You have to hold the punch at an angle to get that inner bearing race tapped out, be careful and tap as vertical as possible.
Did you need to change the low pressure switch? They are specific to r12 vs r134a? If changed out, what is the part number for the one you used?
The one I had was bad so I replaced it. I think they are specific as the new one is labeled R134. I bought mine through advance auto and it blew out after 9 months, they warrantied it so I get to see how long this new one lasts
What do you use this air compressor for when it only puts 30psi?
If I said that, I misspoke. It pressures the tank to 100psi but the cool old gauge on the regulator only reads to 30psi. I fixed the compressor since a working compressor is easier to justify keeping, but I don't use it for much. I've used it a handful of times (blowing stuff off and running a die grinder) when I couldn't use the 220V compressor and the tiny husky was too small. The sound it makes it fantastic compared to a more modern compressor
@@PracticallyStock I absolutely agree about the sound, I picked up one like your vintage compressor because I was hoping for a quieter compressor to replace my craftsman oil less, but it is just not big enough to do what I want. Good stuff, thanks.
Nice work. Your air filter is probably better, but just FYI Lowes sells a universal air filter kit that has round and rectangular foam filters that fit the original housing. Incase not everyone has a 3D printer or wants to spend time fabing a new filter housing. Also capacitors are usually locally sourced at your appliance supply house for the cost of the juggle store. for $15 it's probably good to have an extra on hand for your A/C unit as well.
I got sound system in mine and retrofitted it to old stereo dash with metal face plate holding stereo head unit
Dope find hilarious interior scene
Hey there..any chance you have templates or can make 2 more floor pans? Need them for my 83 280zx 2+2
I don't think I could do that with any accuracy or significant rework. I would say if you are capable of installing them, you shouldn't have much trouble making them. These were the first ones I had done and there might be a better way of doing this but here was what I did: - Cut back to solid metal and made it a reasonably easy shape to patch. Make sure you don't cut through something you want to save. - Take measurements of now open area - Cut patch to those measurements adding about a 1/8 - 1/4 inch on each dimension since it's easier to trim than add metal - Install patches using a "stitch" weld method and cool with air as needed. I think all I used was a grinder (cut off disk, wire brush not a disk, and a flap disk), ball-peen hammer, basic fluxcore welder, tape measure, and a vise. Seriously, wear glasses, gloves, and hearing protection. Only surprise I had was I kept finding rust.
I had an 83 ZX I bought in 1995. Only 12 years old and it had no floor pans, almost no battery tray and half the hatch floor was gone. I only paid $600 bucks for it though. It was a fun car.
Crazy how these cars rust, at least they are fun
I just did an oil change and it improved oil pressure. Think it might be a leaking head gasket or something. Idk, she runs good so what ever
If it's not coincidence maybe the oil had too many miles on it or was diluted with gas?
@@PracticallyStock she was burning oil over time. No biggy
Don’t feel bad, mine sits on that quarter line mark when hot, close to 30 on cold start.
The only thing that you left out that I would’ve certainly done is flushed the evaporator because there’s mineral oil left in there the R12 system.
That's a good idea
Mine has the same issue, i replaced all sensors and what not but at this point im just gonna wait until i have the moeny to rebuild mine i to a 383
Kinda where this one is at, but I bet it still has a long life the way it is
Where can I get a copy of that wiring diagram
You should be able to get the specific manual for your car here www.xenonzcar.com/s130/fsm.php
I cant seem to find the condenser you listed in the comments. Is the parts number 52456127 compatible?
here is a link: www.amazon.com/MyParts-AC-Condenser-Compatible-52456127/dp/B097PYG9BG That listing says the number you listed is compatible with the one I listed but I don't know what the different is between the two. Make sure it has the correct style of tubes as I mentioned in the video because the number you have may be for the OEM condenser
Great demo bro.....
You forgot to mention the fuel shutoff solenoid on the carb. That also could be a problem.
Can you post a parts list please
I think this is what I used, if you have a different system then parts and quantities may change. Double check you have the same compressor since I think there are 2 that look like mine. I think I looked at the total system oil capacity and used that for the R134 oil but again double check that since it's been a year since I did the work. - 8oz of PAG 150 compressor oil - Universal set of green AC o-rings. The new lines should have most of what will be needed. - New flexible AC lines. (I used Rock auto) - New Accumulator (I used Rock auto) - New orifice tube. The ones I saw were recommended for both r12 and r134 (I used Rock auto) - New low pressure switch (Whatever one Advance Auto had) - Kit with conversion fittings (the car already had them installed but most parts stores or Amazon should have them) - Compressor o-ring kit (Santech MT2119 through Orielly's) - Condenser (MyParts PA-4823653 through Amazon) - I think mine took (3) 12oz cans but don't remember for certain, I charged it until the pressures were correct for the ambient temperature. Hope that helps, Thanks
I'm restoring one of these that sat in a field for 24 years.
Hopefully the rust isn't too bad, my 280 (not the anniversary one) had rust front to back
Will the expension valve need to be changed ?
R 12 expension valve replace with r 134 valve
This system uses an orifice tube instead of an expansion valve, the orifice tube had the same part number for both refrigerants. Ideally you would want to change to the correct one for the refrigerant if one is available
Ok sir thank you 😊
Like a rock 😂😂😂
My 79 Transam had a leaked all the R12 so put I changed the o rings and put a vacuum on for 30 minutes, changed the charge fittings to R134 charged it up and it puts out 45 degree air when driving at highway speeds.
You may want to check and see how the compressor is lubricated. If it's lubricated by mixing oil into the refrigerant, the old R12 oil likely won't atomize into the R134 and can cause compressor damage
Gotta do the same to mine! Its not too bad up here in NE TN. low 80s, but still, that's worth the time to get it working again. I ended up chucking the lines and old compressor and condenser since they were just old and didn't hold a charge, plus the pulley was making a loud shrieking sound, so now its only got a bypass pulley. These pancake compressors are really nice and are super easy to service and remove.
For sure, working AC is definitely worth having
I had that same vehicle. The A C with R 12 worked great. Nice video. Very detailed explanation about the conversion to R134a.
Thanks!
Pump alignment during reassembly the first time might have been at least part of the problem with getting the pump back out. Thanks for a great video and nice truck.
Definitely a possibility. Thanks! Glad you like the video
That’s a hella good job. Better than any I’ve seen. I need to learn how to 3d print.
Thanks! The 3D printer definitely opens some doors
Usually its a better idea to use Quick Start with an included top end additive to prevent washing the oil off the cylinder walls and rings. This is especially important if something has been sitting a while.
i just pulled my 2.4 and was wondering if you could link the check valve you used?
I am not sure where it came from. You can search for one by the hose inner diameter you are using. I am not sure this is a good fix but theoretically I think it works. The check valve just needs to hold up to the temperature, normally close itself, and open with minimal pressure. Best of luck and hope it goes back together smooth