Відео

The power sterring fluid is CH11. doesnt require bleeding unless the system is really low or making noise. The best way to bleed it is to raise the front wheels off the ground and just slowly turn the wheel all the way left and right several times with the engine off. Check fluid level and it should be set

Socket set, small picks, torx bits, parts cleaner, oil resistant RTV, ATF+4. Razor blade, wire brush to clean surfaces, Jack/jack stands or ramps. Its not to difficult of a job.

Do you have fuel pressure? Try a compression test to see if the timing chains skipped

@ thanks for the quick reply, I think it has fuel pressure I’m not really sure how to test that. I don’t have the gauge and stuff to check compression either. The car isn’t showing any codes and was running good it just randomly wouldn’t start after I parked it earlier the same day. I noticed the oil in ignition coils and changed valve cover gaskets and plugs thinking that was definitely the solution but it didn’t work

@jdc8340 you can rent those tools for free from most major auto part stores. When you key it on but not crank it, you should hear the fuel pump HUMM for a few seconds. I do have another video here on my page on how to test and replace the pump

@ can you post the link to to video please? And thanks for the help. God bless

@jdc8340 ua-cam.com/video/VTZjWAqYaqA/v-deo.html It says A4, but its he same for the A6.

This was done in a parking lot were the car broke down. Boy do i wish it had a quarter tank

Dude thats awesome, way to get it done! Its cut out of the video, but i also hammered that front shaft to break it free. Did you remove the passanger side axle tube? I removed it when i took it out, but i installed it with it attached. Let me know if you need part numbers for seals or bearings. The bearing rebuild kits are missing the axle tube bearing. If you install a used one, open it up and check the bearings. The coating in the inside of the diff peels off and turns to grit so you want to scrape it out. Thats what kills these front and rear. Im currently editing a video on the rebuild. Also the rear removal/rebuild.

@@nsigarage5212 Hi, I did remove the side axle tube before lowering the diff, and then installed the tube when the new diff was back in position. When buying the oil for the diff a UK ebay seller had a package that included the 3 seals ( 2 were britpart iems). I didn't replace the input seal to the diff as the replacement wasn't leaking and a rebuild of a diff is beyond my DIY skills.

@davidlees2431 im a professional, and it was probably one more challenging diffs ive rebuilt lol, weird angles

I’m thinking about doing the rear differential soon on my RRS- that would be super helpful!!

Things fall out of alightment over time, coupled with worn suspension parts. Its a good idea to at leas have it checked. Not an absolute must if its driving straight, but ideal for maximum tire life

I cant remember off the top of my head im sorry, but it was under a E10

@nsigarage5212 10-4 buddy. Thank you for replying back to me.

Ive put these on dozens of LRs over the years including my own and never had an issue. Though my clients aren't offroading them.

Im not sure what you mean by 10. Dent or 13 dent. I did this repair a long tome ago so it got the Advance auto starter lol

Plently of people drop these diffs in their driveway on jack stands. Sweating yes, struggling? definitely not. The fancy equipment of course does help

@@nsigarage5212 LOL Im saying it does not look easy. Good job getting it done! If that is easy I want to see the Hard Video next :) I can change spark plugs and a tire, brakes, did a transmission once (Way easier than this video) 2 wheel driver car. You are pro level Im a rookie.

I apologize my man i read your first comment in a total different voice in my head. I usually try to aim my videos to jobs that aren't as difficult as they apear, but still DYI. Like this diff is some grunt work bit still just bolt in bolt out. Have a good one

@@nsigarage5212 Haha no worries. Im impressed by the work. Just to have the knowledge to keep all the parts straight in your head is impressive. I would like to be able to pull that off. Those are super expensive parts if done by a official LR dealership.

@Physics072 they are. I rebuilt the original units. The issue was the paint they sprayed inside the units. It fall off in large chunks and turns the oil to grit, then chews the bearings and can block the oiling passage to the pinion bearing.

the valve body is just the unit the big plug goes into. Should be able to pull it up and out no problem

@nsigarage5212 i wasn't sure if the space was adequate considering the depth of it. I know on these AWDs the space is tight

@MadeitTuhMidnight they put this setup on alot of cars. This was a caravan (obviously 2wd) so if you are working on something else im mot sure about clearance. If you can pull the cover off you should no problem getting the valve body out

@@nsigarage5212 here's to hoping i can figure out what to change. P076A

This sounds to me like it is fuel related. The whole fuel distributors like to go out over time. they are full of all kinds of Orings, valves, ect, that deteriorate. But once it warms up fully, it could be sealing up better. I would also be looking at fuel pressure, worn pump, clogged filter, but particularly for hot start i would look at the fuel accumulator (filter pump and accumulator are all together in a bracket under the back of the car) there is a pressure regulator valve somewhere on that assembly as well. The accumulator is also supposed to hold fuel pressure while the vehicle is off to help prevent the fuel distributor from vapor locking. Feel free to email me at nosleepinc2020@gmail.com.

@@nsigarage5212 Hey, how are you? How is the SL running now? I just watched this video again because the indy I am taking my SL to is almost ready to receive my car. I will mention all of these possibilities to him but I know I am ordering the accumulator as I feel that will solve the hot start issue. Saturday it cut off on me at a light, while in a hill in traffic 😮. I will have him check the fuel pump relay and the little silver box in the left front fender that controls the ignition impulses. My indy and I already discussed the idle mixture...whoever made adjustments on the car before I got it make too many so now the system may be off. I will keep you posted. Thanks again for getting back to me.

@ronalddean3630 no problem my man. And best of luck. Let me know how it turns out.

Thank you very much. awesome. Im glad i could help!

I believe it was from A1AUTO. The vehicle as a whole was pretty rough so we tried to keep cost to a minimum. Though i have used their products on a dozen cars with only a couple issues, that where resolved immediately with great customer service

No. But you can get a kit from powerflex like in the video

@@nsigarage5212thanks. I’ll look them up

It did on this vehicle. These transmissions are not the greatest, and the torque coverters are know to be an issue. But it is definitely worth trying before a much more costly relpair

Make what?

@@nsigarage5212 I meant Mark it lol

No, shouldnt have to mark anything

On what

Go for it my man

I just wanted to say thank you again. Your are my first super thanks

@ no problem mate. Thanks for the help.

Glad it helped!

It is a large single piston so ill give it that lol

About an 1hr a side. But i do have a lift and a full shop. Longest part is cutting the bolts

@@nsigarage5212 thanks for sharing. My local European garage is quoting me 8 hours total :)

Yeah thats nonsense. I could see 4 tops to do both lower control arms, but not 8

Wouldnt that be from a bad alternator/voltage regulator

@@nsigarage5212 Correct, I misdiagnosed, I meant if getting no fuel to Dist, then possible OVP relay, at least that's what my old Mech thinks, My issue was however, a clogged Tank screen, due to rust, combined with Fuel pump going out, due to rust particles, because, fuel flows from Tank via screen into FP, then, Filter/Accumulator applies pressure and on to the inlet side of Bosch Dist, then the WUR.. Oh, there is also a WUR fix video, thx!

Power and ground to the ICV would indicate the module is trying to control it. You can also unplug the icv and touch power and ground to on the prongs and see if anything changes. It is a screw type motor so you cant mess up the power and ground, one way would increase RPM other wound decrease. I apologize for the bad camera work it was one of my first videos

2012 Dodge grand caravan

You could, if its internally broken or clogged. It would ohm out good

How long did this job take?​@nsigarage5212

Holding high rpm in higher gears and a check engine light for TCC soleniod

Awesome. Im glad we could assist getting you going!

@@nsigarage5212 thanks turned out as I was tinkering it was a 1500 which I didn't know to begin with but good fun learning

Ok. No need to yell

P2007 P0301 P2243 P310B

No problem i can be contacted at nosleepinc2020@gmail.com

The 2007 code is for the intake runners not operating, you need to check for a vacuum leak, or if the soleniod that controls them is bad, or if the flaps themselves are stuck or broken

@@nsigarage5212 Hello, I did what you said. The car does not cause any malfunctions, there is no loss of traction, it is just weak when starting off.

and only p3345 shows bank2 as error

I'm not aware of any standalone 24v truck batteries, you would just attach it to the first 12v. But for serious HD Like that this pack wouldn't be the best solution. Our trucks are 3 12v in parallel. So 12v systems. And if it's stone dead I'll need to get it as close to the starter as possible.

@@nsigarage5212 It's not the most common, but here in Europe, some trucks have a single 24v battery instead of two 12v batteries. I was assuming that it wouldn't be the best idea, not so much for the truck, but for the device. For the truck the worst it could happen would be not being able to start it. Thank you for your imput.

It's one of the easiest to get to so it makes it ideal to do last when the whole assembly falls out.

Yes they are almost identical underneath from my memory

You do not need to empty the large tank, the small tank is higher than the large tank so they will not bleed out during the repair. Also I have an update to the bleeding procedure, unscrew the cap once the lines are back on and pour in some oil. Put the cap back on, put some water ears on the engine and start it. With it idling, just crack the cap and it will bleed the rest of the air in the tank fairly quickly.

Thanks ! Do you happen to know exactly which oil tank I need. I have a 2017 mercury 250 optimal 2stroke and I want to replace the oil tank that’s attached on the motor. But I see soo many different ones online idk which one to get.

Thanks ! Do you happen to know exactly which oil tank I need. I have a 2017 mercury 250 optimal 2stroke and I want to replace the oil tank that’s attached on the motor. But I see soo many different ones online idk which one to get.

@jordanpadilla99 mine is an 04 175. So I don't know how different they are I get the oil from mercury, or quicksilver which is made by mercury. I believe on mercs website you can find parts by the serial number (like a vin)

I think it's like 100 inch pounds. Just snug not super tight

Like it cranks slow? Or like a difficult start? I would look at fuel pressure and check the plugs.

Yah man it’s a slow start , always feels like it may not turn over to start the vehicle. Once or twice since this started to happen; I had to turn off completely and turned over again!

I would be looking at the starter or starter cables

@@nsigarage5212 absolutely great advice man, we will start there first. Thanks 😊

Dude you're awesome thank you!