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work with nature not against it . stick framing inevitably requires one to control a weakness in design . american stick framing was /is all about saving cost . there is no aspect of longevity built into the system , only price first everything else second . it's appears to be an American as the price above all else i see in everything we purchase , from houses to cars to gas to food etc etc. The current attempts to increase energy efficiency involves additional lumber but in the same configuration that creates so many problems . for a relative small increase in wood , one could use mass timber in the form of manufactured kiln dried logs or CLT panels for the exterior walls . the mass aspect of thick timber acts as a heat storage medium and controls humid changes due to its hygroscopic effect . installing wood fiber insulation panels on the OUTSIDE of the walls eliminates thermal bridging as the mass timber is all the same density. on top of the exterior insulation ,furring strips are attached vertically to accept a siding of choice . the space between the strips acts as an air vent to wick moisture away . the vents are open at the top and bottom with insect and rodent screen installed . the extra cost of the timber is offset by decreased labor .the exterior walls when precut can be assembled in only a few days . the roof structure can be quickly assembled to close the structure in . also there is a saving in no additional work is required on the inside walls and the exterior siding protects the insulation and the mass timber from the elements .

As a european, the german windows suck. You can't put AC's in them, getting screens in them is a PITA especially in apartments. I would much rather have windows that don't make want to die in the summer.

Polyiso is my preferred method to care for the continuous insulation control as it has the highest R-Value per inch. This way you don’t have to to try to find 13 inch screws. We can meet that same R-value with 4 inches of one polyiso board.

How do you want to clean the American window from both sides?

The term "European" is kind of missleading, because there are different styles. The "American Style" is originally from The UK. The other Window with the "Tilt and Turn Function“ ist a german invention by Wilhelm Frank, patented in1935. Over the last 50 years this system spread througout Europe. Inside turning windows ar commonly use in Middle and South Europe, where in Skandinavia Windows and especially appartement doors open outwards (Fire escape). In Germany (and other countries too) you can also get sliding windows (vertical/horizontal) but they serve usually a certain purpose like Ticket offices, Kiosk, Cafés etc.

Vapor barrier?

Thank you. I have learned a lot.

Great information, but I’ve acquired too late. 🙃

What!! I’ve been lied to. I was told that our energy bill will be cut in half if we replaced our aluminum single paned windows.

How do we go about getting these units? How do we go about getting training?

Can you explain what the other control layers below grade are going to be for the stucco? You completely skipped what that is.

Will this thing auto adjust the flow if say an exhaust fan is turned on? It needs more air to replace what’s being pulled out? How do you change the filter or do you need to install separate filters before the unit. I need a lot more info on this unit specifically, trying to decide between this or waiting for the new Broan Model that’s supposed to be coming out

Open a window ?

Nice passive vent system for radon. Is there a low level air-in pipe, as I imagine it needs to pull from somewhere to work efficiently?

I dont understand. Build a cinder block wall seal the outside and build a 2nd cinder bolck two ft from the first and fill with dry sand. Low tech, all materials are available in bulk and great thermal properties. What am i missing?

Put the blinds inside the double window

No way to make a perfect wall if you are using Zip as water control

Stupid people Show something g,stop talking

This was very informative!! Great job! 👏🏾

rockwool doesn't burn but what about wood studs 😅.....

Do you HAVE to use a hub with these are will they connect directly to an app?

We installed two commercial Versicharge chargers at our building we manage and had nothing but problems with those chargers. Siemens replaced them both and we still have problems. Do not purchase these chargers!

10 years from now, this will all be different. Also, wouldn't the homeowner have gotten off cheaper by insulating with bales of dollar bills?

I think that much Rockwool is overkill. Just look at the sample they set on fire with a device inside the rockwool built house (19:20). Its not a 6 to 12 inch thick wall, and probably only 1.5 to 2 inch thick. So having this in mind the heat wont penetrate through the 1.5 to 2 inch and keeps the humidity on the outside if that is a concern and then space between the sheathing and rockwool should be in balance (not fluctuating in temp).

We try to keep moisture going outward in our timber frames. People don't understand how much moisture builds in a house. Block walls we core with vermiculite, mineral wool batts and board, low perm air barrier, air gap, and masonry veneer. Wall ties for masonry veneer hold the mineral wool.

Hybrid designs are becoming more popular using a combination of materials and purposeful layers. Efforts are made to prevent thermal bridging across structural supports, all while not sacrificing living space.

American doors is good. But thw Double-hung is the dumbest thing I ever seen in my life. Casement, Awning or Tilt and Turn still better than that Double, Single Hung garbage.

American windows dont "need" the extra framing. It would add cost. And all it does is stiffen the window. A euro needs it because of how it opens.

Wow! I think I will just wear an extra shirt.

Great walls for the wealthy, the same people who can afford to not care about high heating bills. One up side is that these green nirvana R-Value chasers provide lots of blue collar job's. Other than that, get real!

finding it hard to find Hurricane impact tilt and turn windows in UPVC.. do you have any reference

Is there a copyright issue for showing the brand used for the client in the video? Or is a brand promotion not part of the video?

I love this project because it's simple and works. This is also an inspiring Scout project- great that the Scouts could help! And, they will learn some basics about solar energy. :)

It's also key to understand that decibels are measured exponentially. So a change from 75 to 55 decibels is more than it might sound like. 75 is irritating and you kind of need to yell over it. 55 is quieter than many conversations. So now that this hood is operating at 50-55 decibels, it's really a noticeable difference. Every ten points on the decibel scale is like a tenfold pressure difference!

I am excited about this project because it made a real and immediate difference in occupant behavior. People who were missing out will now benefit from ventilation they really should have always had. Hoods aren't just meant to be looked at! It's important to understand we only benefit from available technologies if we actually use them.

Stupid useless device that should never be used! You need to get passive insulation right with gable vents or a ridge vent and soffit vent. You have no idea about attic venting and need to be re-educated as a contractor

Hey Matt, what are those tiles? that's exactly what I'm looking for and I'm having a hard time finding the look. Thanks, Mark. Also do you know how to turn off the motion sensor? I'd like to go to just the humidity sensor and turn the volume up higher. Thanks

I am so excited for this technology - no one ever remembers to turn the fans on, and the bathrooms get so damp. I don't mind the humidity for a few minutes personally, but I do mind when it adds up over time and the paint gets ruined!

Yeah mold and skin fungus will remain in the system

Wow, this is like a no guilt shower. I wish I had known about this before a recent renovation we worked on. I always worry about water pressure - more water pressure and less water? Sounds like magic. :) I will do this for sure next time!

American windows are crappy. European windows hands down!

definatley rigid on the bottom foot or 2 feet instead of that, you can see the water being absorbed from the ground. Or vapour barrier rapped around the front of it when drainage to the back.

would a bucket of tar do the same thing as the tube

A 2 foot thick Cob wall sounds less expensive

I live in central canada in a cold climate and winter lows can get as cold as -40 to -50 Celsius. You’re suggesting that Mitsubishi now has a unit that can handle the cold climate in Canada ? An office I worked at had a new Mitsubishi cold climate unit with advanced commissioning etc. and it would really struggle and fail at -20 Celsius

I think it's great. I studied the diagrams. Prevent dew point from being on surface of sheathing. Cover house in a blanket. The main issue is the cost. I wish it were affordable.

Cool...next do the affordable wall. 😂

Ha your title got me all riled up :) I'm in Canada and I've found two interesting take aways switching from an oil furnace to a heat pump. 1) the house is comfortable all the time. No temperature swings up and down while the furnace cycles on and off as we're used to. Yes the heat pump runs a lot during the winter, but it's only using 500W. 2) Our heating costs have reduced dramatically. We saved over $3,000 this winter season alone vs. oil heat. Anyone on oil heating should consider a modern heat pump to replace it. Keep up the good videos - I stumbled on this and subscribed!

27:25 "just add more vents depending on load". And .4 total system static pressure. Wow, i was trying to make it work with a much more beneficial .8-1.0 static some furnaces have (like variable speed blower lennox furnaces and air handlers). At .4 total static, most 3 ton coils are at between .15 and .20 static, air filters, even larger size single 4" low merv filters are similar, and you are .30 static in those two things. No return duct yet, no registers, no manifold. On .4" total static design, the target of 3" or 4" vents are going to be maxing out the system at a design static left over or .05 static for the duct. Anyone, i plead you to look up even a solid metal 3" duct for your self on a free duct sizer/static/air velocity app at .05 static. The airflow is nothing. Without looking, likely 10-15 cfm per run. I doubt any of these installers are doing enough runs. If they did, they would be forced to talk to the builder about where they are going to put 90-120 runs on a small 1500 sq ft home. Big packaging issues. For something that is supposed to help with packaging. There are plenty of creative ways to keep ducts inside the envelope, that would save labor, save time, and keep a process simple.

The math doesn't work out. This product was sold to national home builders directly, and its gaining popularity extremely fast, and I predict its going to implode as fast as its coming on to the market. Typically, I'm seeing 25-35 3" runs from the few installations I have seen online. There must be lots of 2.5 to 3 ton applications in that range. Most HVAC guys would agree, on the supply side, the equivalent of a 15" or 16" round would deliver that 2.5 to 3 tons depending on how complex, long the supply and return air is, how much static is available after a filter, coil, furnace/Air handler has been designed into the system. The vents themselves are also very restrictive when compared to a typical vent you see available at even home depot (just looking at their shape). I get it, its about creating some velocity at the air exit. But the shape in both the round and thing wall vents is by its nature restrictive, a lot more than a typical 4x10 vent when compared to what the air volume its delivering. The big issue here, is the math, and static pressure, even running out a 16" equivalent trunkline, to 12, final 6" vents, keeping crossectional area constant in comparing 12, 6" vents, 6" vents, that nets a 336 sq inches. These small 3" vents, are only 7 sq inches cross section. So, to keep crossectional volume similar, you would need 48 of these small 3" vents. If this company says its ok to have less vents than that, wow, its only going to perform worse, not better. Now, back to 12 vents, 6" size on a normal 3 ton application, 336 sq inches, that has a circumference of 216". That 336 sq inches of air is contacting 216 linear inches of ductwork as it passes through it. Static pressure is directly caused by the air interaction with surfaces. 48 of the small 3" vents, give you the same 336 cross section, except now that air through all 48 of those 3" vents is interacting with 432 linear inches. We are talking about double the surface area that the air has to contact with, its all friction, and thats assuming all things equal, we are comparing 6" home run lines just like these 3" lines are run. With a normal HVAC design, a single 16" trunk would apply here, and that helps even more the static pressure to be lower. As we know, static pressure isn't a linear relationship, nor is a blower curve. I'd love to know what Rheia recommends for a 3 ton setup on a small home, how many runs. I doubt its 48 lines, if its not, and its much less, the issues only compound. This is why so many people think this system is "high velocity" and it isn't. Its only the velocity and static pressure a normal furnace can handle. Max capability on the best variable speed furnaces is .8" static on heating, and 1.0" static available on cooling total. This is so so so so bad. a 3" duct (metal) running 30 cfm, has a friction rate of .28 inwg/100ft. A 6" duct running 100 cfm has a friction rate of .08 inwg/100ft. We are talking 350% higher friction rate. And thats compared to 6" home runs to every vent, which its widely frowned upon, because its one of the most restrictive ways to run a duct system, super inefficient labor wise, ineffective for packaging. This is just doubling down on a terrible installation method of 6" home runs, but in a result that is way worse that double. Closer to 4x worse. Critical thinking is gone. Packaging isn't even a win. Its just a dumbed down way to do hvac that takes the thought out of it to make things simple, but the impact on all things are going to be terrible. I understand, the market we serve is high end. I run about 50 guys, 10 Million a year revenue working on 150 Custon Estate homes a year that are all between values of 3 Million dollars, up to 100+ Million dollars each. But I didn't get to working on these homes over night. I have worked on all types of projects. Having 5 or 6 vents in a room where one would do it. What wall clutter. I'd love to know more. Anyone who has information they can post here, that would be great. For now, until someone can explain the math to be different, this brand Rheia, is missing its first name Dia. Its no different that the Aria vents that are out there. The math doesn't work.