Відео

Hi Jon, Sorry to hear your having issues. The only thing I can suggest is to do what I did: Revert the process and check all connections. It's easy to think the delicate flat cables are secured, but might not be. If the split second of live view is updating to the current scene, it sounds like it's alive, but might have issues keeping a live stream going. That could be cable issue.

@@astroboden Thanks for your reply. Going in again to check cables and connections I accidentally touched the capacitor. Got a burnt finger and the camera is now resting in peace in the camera graveyard.

Tack Mirja! Välkommen!

Hi, my issue just came during a night of imaging. Thought I might have fried my MCU board, but as tested in the video, that wasn't it. Got some sensor boards to test, but I haven't got to it yet. As soon as I do, I'll get the results out. Let me know how you're doing!

@@astroboden so far, my problem is caused for a wrong firmware flashed, or corrupted, I don't know, the thing now, it turns when I switch on, it detects correctly my mount and works fine, then the next time detects Advanced CG with a Nextstar mount with GPS, so obviously it doesn't detect properly the motors mount, so that happens 1 avx 1 agt every time y turn on the mount. You should check on your mount when doesn't detect the motors, whatbis loading the hand control, under Menu/Utility/version if I'm not wrong. Check is loading the correct mount.

Cheers! Yes, I'm quite pleased with the end result considering the stitching frame. If you don't have Pixinsight, I can highly recommend it. Software are often given poor low priority, even though it's there majority of the work is made visible(if you're into astrophotography). Clear skies

Your work is fantastic and it doesn’t go unnoticed. Thanks for being a fair share ✌🏾

😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂

Welcome aboard and thanks for watching!

​@@astroboden‏‪8:16‬‏

Hi mate! Yeah, in the very limited research I did, the IDAS NBZ would be the best option. It was however not available when I had the itch and made the order. As a second option I found that the L-Extreme was better in general, but NOT as suitable for fast optics as the L-enhance. Also, that the L-enhance was apparently recommended for RASA users, which made me go for that. Decent RGB filters is the next option as I will with no doubt be using the ASI1600MM ahead. I’ll keep Antlia in mind, cheers for that suggestion!

Hi, I have only looked at lifepixel.com IR conversion service and tutorials. They have a bunch of Sony models, but I could not find the ZV-E10. Maybe post them the question directly? Good luck!

@astroboden Thanks alot for the prompt response! I will definitely check with them directly!

@astroboden btw, could you please tell me what type of conversion do we need in order to shoot deep sky objects? Is it the Enhanced Infrared (665nm)

Hydrogen alpha is the most important one to let though, at 656nm. Sulphur-II is at 672nm, which is further into the infrared. Normally, if you have a OCS(one-shot-color) camera, like you have, you might want to use so called band-pass filters to isolate certain wavelengths. Normally H-alpha(656), S-II(672) and O-III(500). This is to remove light pollution. I don't know if the conversion will give you any options. Unless you find a service replacing the filter mounted with another one. I would go for some clear (or possibly some UV cut )filter replacement. You have a mirrorless camera, and I don't know if the autofocus is off-axis or not. If it's using the main sensor for AF, you don't need a replacement filter for that, but I would check and make sure first.

@@astroboden Definitely, I will check first. Again, thanks for the detailed and rich information 👍

Hi! I’m having a blast! Really sucks the light in. It was pricy, but the level this may change how I can perform my hobby makes it well worth is. Thanks a lot! First time I checked out The Ghost of Cassiopeia. May be perfectly framed for the SCT at 1400mm. There is just too much to do with this Newtonian first 😊

Hi mate! Well, I’m not using these as actual bike motors, where I’m making my own drive controller, and this might change my understanding of your problem. Anyway, if it's just the case parts(with the magnets) that can be swapped, this should not matter for the controller running the motor. There might be other parts of the tire design that is rotation oriented. If you on the other hand can mount the stator the “wrong way around”, the orientation of the hall effect sensors will be flipped over. Basically the bike will drive in reverse. This is if your motor is using hall-effect sensors. The wiring should come out on the other side then. Did I understand your question correctly?

Thanks mate! Yeah, they are a bit tricky. This one is a bit too close to the sun I think to be up for another attempt. The galaxy clusters are wonderful. They are cool to make with both wide field and up close.

Thanks for watching 😀!

Hi mate! Thanks! Might look at a "keter-observatory" style thing to start out with. Could automate the thing quite a bit I think. The other project I might dive into this summer is a micro-observatory solution. Like mobile-observatory-box. I have a field I can set up in, and the idea of traveling is getting much more appealing with the fast astrograph. Nothing for the Lucid mount, but that could possibly go in the keter-observatory then 🤔

Hi! Thanks! Somewhat painful? Yes, a bit. I got the separate tilt adapter, although it’s there is on the focuser mounting already. It looks to be ok at the moment, maybe. The backfocus issue is a bit strange. Maybe I just need to get my head around it. Love it though. I’m sure it’s worth it. So far I’m taking it all the headache that comes in the package! Enjoy that fast optics!

Hi! The DSLR usually has 3 optical paths that all needs to be the same. The sensor, the view finder and the AF sensor. When removing the filter, the path to the sensor is changed. It can be adjusted with a clear filter, or by changing the position of the pcb, like you did. The change of the light path is not the same as the thickness of the filter, usually 1/3 of the thickness of the filter. The lcd screen can still be manually focused, but the view finder will be blurry. To me, the AF function should not work either then. Does it? If the pcb is adjusted correctly and the AF function works, the view finder should also be in focus. The flat cables felt quirky to get seated correctly since some of them where different. As in the video my camera didn’t power up as it should either at first. Good job getting it back together!

The furry or feathery friends will always be the star of the show! 🤩

Heheh, yeah you’d think would you? The benefits of moving smaller and cheaper ;) The scope is very nice. There is more coming here shortly. There are some challenges with a low F/ system to tackle, but I hope it will be worth it in the end. The research I did suggested that the L-enhance filter was good for low f/, so I got it rather than the L-extreme, although it is “better”. The “fast” light cone on these scopes means that the angle of the outer part of the cone will be too steep on many filters, and will not go through properly. Guess that will appear like a shift, or reduction in the light coming through. We’ll see! Thanks for watching! May the dark side be with you!

Hi, interesting, but I’m not sure I follow your procedure… Are you creating an aperture mask that you insert between the lens elements in the refractor? I suppose if the lens elements are assembled wrongly, they could touch, creating tension points affecting the performance. I don’t think I would open mine up for any reason. Most of these are sealed and pressurized with nitrogen to prevent moisture from entering the system. I believe the tabs are made of metal or something and will not rub off with alcohol. I’m sorry if I misunderstood your method, but if it works for you: good job! May the dark side be with you!

@@astroboden Basically the clear ring is doing the same job as the 3 tabs but the distance between the 2 lenses is kept the same all the way around due to the circle and you remove the issue of the 3 dark points without loosing too much aperture. My lens cell was too tightly assembled and this showed as a dot in the center of the lens. The tighter it is the more concentric circles you get around the dot. Understandable if you don't want to disassemble the lens cell but if you do have a dot in the middle just check if it is too tight.

@@bobsmytheable I see! Good one. Thanks!

upgrade? Indeed! Cheers!

Cheers mate. I will miss them as well. Know the guys keeping them so I can go visit :) Yeah, winter still very real here ;) Thanks for watching!

Hi, sorry for the delay. If your using the PWM to control the servo you can use analogWrite function: analoWrite(Pin,output_value) Prior you also need to set: analogWriteResolution(<=16); and for the frequency: analogWriteFrequency(Pin, 333);

No, sorry I didn’t. I thought the issues disappeared with the Lum filter, so I hoped using that in conjunction could help. I don’t know what I was thinking, it didn’t help in anyway. The poor, or non-existing reflection coating on the micro lenses is just to live with I suppose. Deal with in post, or avoid bright stars… Clear skies!

Tackar! Det är kanske ingen skönhet direkt, men den funkar och har en viss "gritty" charm över sig ;)

Hi, sad to hear your having the same, or similar issues. Using the mount base has been my best and most enjoyable use of it so far ;) Got some sensor boards I might give it a stab at if time allows. Clear skies… and working equipment!

Set everything up this evening and my mount started doing this😩

That sucks. Sad to hear. I noticed on my CGEM that a poor power supply can also cause that. I did check that in the CGX case, but with the CGEM a better power connection and supply scared it off. Give that a try if you can. @@chrisbradshaw5882

It was a bit nerve-wracking, but all ok in the end ;)

@@astroboden 😂🤣😄😅

Cheers mate!

Hi Douglas! Canon support site states that it’s a mechanical error: support.usa.canon.com/kb/index?page=content&id=ART177663 I have no experience with Canon, but it seems to be a very nice camera. It’s a mirrorless camera which is nice since that potential mechanical issue is limited, but they have a shutter for protecting the sensor. I suppose this is the only mechanical thing left? As you might have noted in my video I also had issues. Two of actually. Both where cables not connecting properly (video part 2). If you have taken your camera apart, that’s what I would look at. Since it’s a mirrorless camera I suppose you’re not affected by the AF issue with removing the IR filter as DSLR owners are. The shutter blades are very fragile. Don’t try to open it manually. Good luck!

Turn sensor cleaning on startup/shutdown off. Then you won’t see the message

Insane, right? I do love their EdgeHD 800 so far though. Hope they don’t fiddle with the QC on that business. But no prices are in proportion nowadays.

Hi mate! I was quite sure that the ferrofluid will stay between the coils and the magnets while energised and conduct the heat from the coils to the magnets and out to the case. When the coils are not energised the FF will orient itself around the magnets. I made some big ventilation holes in the hub which was a lot more effective to remove heat from the stators, but I’m sure that also aided in drying out the FF to the point that all that was left was a tar-like mess. That’s when I got rid of it and just used ventilation. So, do I get it right that you have built up part of the stator with epoxy so that it contacts the inside of the hub motor housing, i.e. the rotor? And then transfer heat via physical contact between the two? Surely that would result in friction heat until the epoxy contact interface is worn down as well? I might be misunderstanding, but if it works, good job! Would not come up with that idea. Anyway, thanks for sharing, and good luck!

Sounds like a fun project, and a great spring board if you want to evolve it further! Go nuts!

Cheers mate! It’s sad, but the dark side isn’t really with us here. The weather has been better during the late spring and early autumn, than the winter. Many targets are really just tourist visits that needs a proper stay when it’s darker. But that’s ok. Maybe this winter will be better. Cheers for watching, and may the dark side be with you too!

Yes, it’s really cool. With this type of ferro fluid I thing artsy things are more suitable. FF is used for cooling of hubmotors, but I didn’t do my research on what kind to get, so I just tried what I could find on amazon. This was not suitable. It’s cool on video though!

The number of magnets/2 will determine the number of electrical revelations/mechanical revelation of the BLDC motor. The electrical revelation then consist of 1 phase period of the 3 phases(in this case). The number of coils is not relevant. The phase difference in these coils means it doesn’t matter where the coils are in relation to the magnets, as long as the phase difference is correct. I made a video about this concept, or at least the electrical revelation part of the motion: ua-cam.com/video/GPIc6RijOqc/v-deo.html

Hi! Yes, indeed they are. I was too busy about removing the filter and get things working again that I forgot to mention the focus issue. It didn’t occur to me until later. If you don’t replace the filter with a clear filter the focal point shifts back from the sensor and the AF will not work properly. I mentioned this in the comments later or, in the description of the video I think. I never installed one as I didn't have one, and didn’t think I would need one. Anyway, I think this was the last non-astro image I ever taken with this camera. The astroimages are focused manually with different tools. You can look at these in the channel/instagram, but I don’t think they will picture what you want to see?

Hey mate! Welcome onboard! The hoverboard motors are very nice to work with and a great start of the experiment. With encoders, maybe they would work much better. Without, size matters :P

Hi mate! No, the voice will never be the issue around this mount!! I live on a farm, quite rural, so I can make pretty much any kind of noise I’d like ;) Some farmers here fire rifle round midnight just to keep the wild animals away from the fields. So, if anything I’m helping out! Thanks, the image turned out better than I hoped for, but I’m looking forward to do it with longer exposure. The strange mount is my DIY direct drive mount that I call “the Lucid Mount”. It started out as an experiment, but has become a big part of my hobby. There is a whole series here on my channel about the build and testing of it. There will be a summary of the current progress later this autumn if there is time. Thanks for watching!

Cheers mate! I’d say the Iris deserves darker skies to better get that cold dark nebulosity. But, with 2 min exposures at F/7, I’m happy with the result! And I will enjoy improving it when autumn finally shrouds us in darkness again… - May the dark side be with you!

2eew233

​@@astroboden😊😊😂llp😊😊

Cheers mate! As do you I noticed ;)

Hi! didn't really understand that, but thanks for watching! Clear skies!

Cheers mate! It was a real little firework. Well worth a visit. I'll be back for some Ha, or perhaps longer exposures next time. Clear skies!

Hi! That's absolutely true. With good encoders, one could have the system to move at the correct speed at just the current required. A velocity based system is also better than a position based. Even though encoders would be a wonderful addition, to make it "work" without them was one of the objectives. I think I achieved that with known cons, so at some point, encoders will be the next step. Cheers for watching!

@@astroboden Looked at the price of some renishaw encoders the other day, similar to the ones they put in commercial mounts...it's nightmare fuel...

@@Antiath Yeah, it’s really expensive. One understand why it hikes up the price of the mount with them. Either you really need it, or you just have too much money. For most amateur astronomy it’s just fancy dancy. I could really use it though!

​@@astrobodenaq1

Hi! Great that you enjoyed it! Hope you get it working well. With a different setup, I got slightly deformed stars, which I guess is down to backfocus or tilt of the reducer. FWHM and core tracking were no issues though. Good luck and clear skies!

That sounds terrible! Good on you to change the system instead of the hobby! Like I mentioned, I have not familiarized myself with the native app enough to suffer crashes etc. The actual computer has never crashed on me. Since you’re here, how does the ASIAir Plus work outside the provided app? Can you work with it like a regular linux machine? Like install applications, run terminal etc? VNC interface? Cheers for stopping by!

@@astroboden Good question, I went ASIAir as a plug and play device... Nothing to setup, nothing really to play with... It simply works without any trouble and lets me get on with the astro. I'm using it with a Redcat 51, Zwo EAF with a black cat kit together with the zwo mini guide camera and scope. The mount is the cheap and cheerful az-gti on a WO wedge. Out of all the kit, the Skywatcher stuff is very poor but it just works out on a limited budget. It all works remarkably well together. This is my travel rig (not a flight rig as a little heavy!) As for home in a bad bortle 6, I plan on more of a home made kit - IE mini guide pc plus open source software so would look to maybe something other than the ASIAir. I would probably go for a small windows pc running individual software as I'd run mains electric and network to the garden. Back on subject, I've tried the ASIAir apps on android and apple iPads with zero issues. I don't have any experience of using a pc to communicate with it and have no idea if that's possible as the asi app does everything I really need. We have very limited clear sky time in the UK which is why I need a system to just function when I need it. We do have some excellent dark sky sites though when we do get good weather. I've just come back from camping in Wales in a good bortle 2 unfortunately in full moon. Just looking at another campsite in the isles of Scilly... Class 1 - should be amazing if it's possible to match these with clear skies!

I totally get you on the zero-issue demand to get going as soon as those skies finally clears! The simple kit is sometimes the best as it gets you going. It great to do just as you do, and have one super reliable kit and one project kit. I made my project kit my main one. Don’t regret it one bit, but sometimes it’s just lovely to get the easy rider out there 😉 I salute you UK guys for keeping the spirit up with all the cloudy skies you seem to have. -May the dark side be with you!

Thanks! And I really should get into planetary as well. Summer shouldn't be an excuse to lay low 😉 Cheers for watching!