Відео

The cap feels rubberized - it is plastic yes, but it is covered in a rubber like coating. That coating over time tends to get mushy and sticky. That is the issue that I am having with mine. I have worked with carbon fibber a few times in my life and I also wrapped cars with vinyl wrap - I can tell you that some companies can make a pretty convincing vinyl wrap that mimics carbon pretty well. Usually looking at the edge of it is what gives it away. Vinyl will always be very sharp - carbon will tend to fray a little, especially weaved CF. On this one, I could be wrong, but based on the edge that I see on it is too sharply cut, almost vinyl like. Again, I could definitely be wrong, the only way to know for sure is to break it apart and see how is built. Something that I am not willing to do with a perfectly working fountain pen :D.

Black Forest is not a bad fountain pen at all. I have one as well. My little one made me buy her a rainbow version for her birthday - she loves it as well. If it give you the chills I guess something was accomplished :D - thanks Pete!

Glad you enjoyed it!

Thank you! :)

Thanks for the suggestion. The problem with showing the actual sizes that I am using is that they only fit my fountain pens and design. So unless you plan to do the exact fountain pens I am making, you are going to have to do your own measurements and use your own drill bit sizes that fit your design. Basically, the measurements are not universal - is based on the design that you have. I can share the measurements I am using, that is not the problem for me, but I don't see how it will help with your design since you still need to do you own plans.

@@eugenborcan Yes, quite agree - the length and girth of the parts (Cap, Section, Barrel) may vary according to design, but there are some measurements which we can copy or refer, like internal diameters and drill depths, which are more likely to be unchanged for a specific tap/die setups, nib units or filling system.

Thanks for watching Pete! :)

My pleasure!

Sorry for being late with it - I hope you enjoyed it! :)

I hope you were able to pick up something useful from it :D. I know the video is not the best quality, but this is my first time trying to take a video outside my more serious setup that I use for my regular videos. I will try and make more videos in the future - if people ask - and break down things even more with hopefully more close up shots - if I get a good setup in place. Bottom line, I hope that at least you were able to pick up some useful information and that not everything was pointless in the video :D :). For resin, I am using Deep Pour Casting & Art Epoxy (2:1) resin made by MagicResin - a Canadian company. Is a little cheaper than the Alumilite for me since is basically a local company almost (especially on shipping since is free within Canada). It takes about 3 days to cure to the point I can handle it, but I leave it additional 3 days after removing it from the molds. I still pressure cast them during those initial 3 days, even though is a slow curing process. The way I work with it is a little bit different... So basically this resin has a 6 hours working time. I usually mix the colors in separate containers and then leave them to rest for 5 hours. This gives it some time to partially cure and becomes more like gelatine and if I have to mix other things that I want in it with heavier particles is perfect state. Also when I mix the colors they will stay separated after the 5 hours mark - based on my conditions and tests. But because I pour them so late there might not be enough time for all the bubbles to come out and as such I still put the blanks under pressure to be on the safe side. I'm a slow person :D and I don't like the 40 or 60 minute work times... too stressful :D. I tried a lot of other resins but for me this one has worked the best - also the smell/fumes it produces are considerable less than Alumilite for example. MagicResin has considerable lower VOC and Odor - to me at least and my nose :D. But, as everything, that is my experience and what works for me and my work flow. Might not work for you or your needs.

@@eugenborcan Thank you so much for such a detailed reply, I appreciate it! I have been using some "normal" casting epoxy resin with the 40-60 min working time, and I get what you mean about feeling rushed sometimes. I have definitely gathered some good info from this, and it's great seeing an unedited video to get a good idea of where I'm at in terms of the speed and efficiency of my process. I've been struggling a bit with getting a glassy polish like your pens, but I'm not sure if that's down to the compounds/techniques I'm using or the material itself that I've been working with. I'm looking forward to your next video and seeing your process there! Best regards!

It might be just technique when it comes to sanding/polishing. That is one area that I am pretty decent at - I have previous experience in sanding and polishing from working on cars (that was another hobby of mine) - so I might have more helpful information in there for you. As a fun fact - for me at least - the sanding and polishing process takes just as long as cutting, drilling, tapping and turning a fountain pen. It is that involved... for me at least.

@@eugenborcan Yeah, I have a feeling I'm either rushing a bit, or just doing something a little bit wrong. I've definitely been putting some time into it, but possibly not enough. Can't wait for the next one!

Thanks - I got it about a year ago and paid around $68 CAD.

Thank you - glad you enjoyed it!

Thank you - glad to hear you enjoy watching them! 💗

If you ever get the chance, give it a try, is not a bad fountain pen. As for the little guy and what is holding in his hand... don't worry about it... just go to sleep ;) :D. Might be something pocky and pointy :D. Thanks Pete!

Thank you!

Not sure what you mean by that... doesn't take long to clean. Is quite a simple fountain pen. Is a decent pen in itself - but in the end each person has their own preferences and that is OK.

Thanks Pete - it did give it something that is for sure :).

Thanks! :)

That made me chuckle a little - well put! :) Thanks!

The 601 is a pretty cool version from WingSung as well - especially the metal body. Thank you!

Congrats - hope you like it!

Thank you for that info - I was not aware of it.

You are probably right! :)

Thanks Pete! :)

That is a pretty darn good name! 😃💗

I know what you mean! Chances are quite high that they are made of "waste". If you search for Ox horn you will find a lot of objects made out of this material. My assumption is that all of them are coming from places where meat is processed. So basically, ethically sourced.

Thanks!

If I ever get one, I will...

You are right... chiselled like apiece of wood :D. Thanks!

Nothing wrong with that! :) Thanks for your view!!

Thank you! :)

Thank you! "Universe in hand" is a good name too! Like I said in the video, I am working on an idea for these dip pens - I am waiting for some parts that are coming from China, but the shipping is slow so it might take me a while until I can make a in more depth video about them. Don't want to say too much about it right now :). Attaching nib units to this style of pen is another idea as well but, I have some other plans for something on that regard too... and that might take me longer...

I agree, this fountain pen is easily one of their best and from all the China pen manufactures, probably the best copy of the MB - not that I would personally know, because I do not have the MB version. But, with the copy aside and just looking at the fountain pen for what it is, it is a very well built one. As usual... I wish speedy recovery and nothing but good health my friend.

From my experience, both are pretty decent. Maybe the Jinhao 82 has a slightly better built quality (hence the higher-ish price on them). In the end both of them are fairly affordable and if you can, buy one of each and see which one you like best. The 35 is metal and longer, the 82 is plastic and more pocketable. Duds exist on both sides.

Metal body or acrylic which is good..

@@Deliriouswayfarer Honestly, is a matter of what you prefer as material for your fountain pen. A metal version will always be more sturdy but will be heavier and colder to the touch. Acrylic is not as sturdy as metal so dropping it might result in a broken fountain pen but, is lighter and warmer to the touch.

Thanks! :)

This is the store where I got it from - no affiliation: www.aliexpress.com/item/1005003515227067.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.74.21ef1802yKx2zx

Are you referring to the fact that the first nib that I had refused to work? The nib and feed was clean, there was no issue with the blockage. I think the issue is that somehow the nib and the feed do not contact properly for the capillary action to happen and for the ink to properly transfer from feed to the nib slits. I might have to heat set the feed with the nib to fix that issue.

Thank you - I will try and be as detailed as I can when I will release those videos.

Thanks Pete! 👍

Thank you kindly! I had a feeling when I removed the blanks from the pot that it will be one of favourites for a lot of people.

Thank you - and thank you for watching! 😉💗

Oh Susi... Why do we always have the same opinion about Eugen's wonderful works?

This fountain pen specifically can only fit a Pilot CON-40 converter.

Happy to hear you enjoy it! :) Thank you!

That's good to know that some 630 do post. Mine probably has some defect or something.

Yeah, it sucks... but there are other similar pens that are pretty good I would say - like the Moonman P136. I can definitely make body parts for fountain pens. The problem is getting the proper thread to match with the pens. Sometimes companies get weir tap/dies combos that is hard to find or expensive to get. As long as I have the tap and die, is not an issue. Thanks for the translations! :)

Thank you - I am glad to hear you enjoy my videos and my silly drawings. ✌💗

Same... I'll probably revisit the idea in the future. Sometimes, in the moment though, you just don't connect with things and is hard to realize what you have in front of you. I should get in the habit to put things that I don't connect with in the moment aside, rather than ignore it, and have a look at it again at a later time.

@@eugenborcan I get it. Sounds like a good idea. 👍🏻

Thank you! Cheers!

I understand that. Posting sometimes is good. With that said though, from my perspective, that is the only downside of it.

Sounds like some can be posted - mine seems to have an issue with it. So it could be a hit an miss situation.

@@eugenborcan Mine doesn't post either. This seems to be a matter where the tolerance range is only a few tenths of a millimeter.

Good to know is not only mine then - thanks for letting me know!

That would work as well. If someone would want that setup they can always ask and I can provide. Thank you - the orange and black is one of my favourites as well.