Відео

Hi! Yes I realized that also; if for whatever reason it happened to play a video at a lower resolution, it sometimes defaults to that resolution for a future video. I don't know why. But yes, I offer all my videos in 1080p, whenever there is a segment for a retro vibe, it's normally pretty obvious. I have a few I even offered in 4K but realized it wasn't really necessary and YT takes forever to process them so I stuck to 1080P. Thanks for watching!

Hi there! No I purchased all the parts from Amazon. You can easily put it together following my video. I would however select a better speaker like one with more square sides and not rounded and maybe a little wider as it is difficult to make the components stick to it properly with the velcro. For the radio if you are not comfortable doing it yourself, a few people on eBay are selling them, just don't overpay for them because it's just a tiny modification that has been done as I showed in the video. Thanks for watching!

Hi. I think I clearly said it in the history at the beginning of the video; it was an NES system released under the name "Famicon" in Japan from 1983-2003. Thanks for watching.

@@RetroRepairGuy but it is not a a Famicon, it is a Famicom, short for family computer.

@@CaseTheCorvetteMan Oh yeah true my mistake "M" not "N" never even saw that on this 3 year old video and just made same mistake. lol Oh well!

Wow what a story! I love all this old stuff and when I found it for so cheap in the thrift store I knew I had to jump on it. Glad I did. Thanks for watching!

It was even better as it was $25 Canadian! Which as I always say is $2 USD! Thanks for watching!

Yes I found my parts right here in Montreal. Don't forget there is also two little rubber tires underneath from what I remember. And while this VCR is of great quality it also comes with a bunch of alignments since you can adjust almost everything on it. Better to get the service manual for it if you can. Thanks for watching!

@@RetroRepairGuy I ordered and replaced the pinch roller (as well as oiled the takeup reels), but the problem persists. However, I haven't cleaned off all the old glue from the PCBs. I had heard that it can become conductive (both the glue on the PCBs and the epoxy used for the capacitors.) I also plan to shotgun repair all the capacitors on one of the daughterboards. Really want to get this thing working. It's so nice when it does.

@@olepigeon As I said in the video I love this unit it almost looks as good as DVD. I was truly amazed. Yes changing all the caps would definitely help as well. Besides you can't get quite a perfect adjustment if you are adjusting the unit for sound or video with bad caps.

@@RetroRepairGuy Looks like it's the Supply Sensor keeping it from rewinding. If I cover the sensor with my finger, it'll rewind just fine. So I'll have to fiddle with it.

Did my best! Thanks for watching!

Keeping it alive! Awesome!

Hi! This proves to me you did not watch the video as I specifically said they used the 68 and 69 during the filming and used to change the tail lights to match and showed the brochure with the original tail lights. But thanks for watching.

Thank you! I appreciate it and thanks for watching!

Thank you!

Hi there! Skills are something you hone with practice. I would first suggest working on old stuff you find at a thrift store for a few dollars to experiment. I made a video a while back that might help a bit ua-cam.com/video/Hf8DBlH95nE/v-deo.html Aside from that, I would NOT cannibalize any old units unless it's a part that you can't get. Especially because capacitors leak and get old and have a certain life span. I often talk of capacitors in my show but you can check this out ua-cam.com/video/6s5ycAVZiHM/v-deo.html it has more information on them. As for selling the equipment, there is definitely a market for both fixing and selling retro stuff. I have tons of emails from people in the US looking for someone to fix old VCRs, game consoles, TVs, tape decks, etc. You can easily get parts for the electronic boards from places like DigiKey. They are reputable and sell high quality capacitors. When it comes to belts and tires you will have to buy bags full of different sizes from China and match them. I have a whole chapter in this video where I talk about how to match belts ua-cam.com/video/n-cj6yT5a_s/v-deo.html Hope this helps and thank you for watching!

@@RetroRepairGuy yeh i have been thinking about pulling and soddering capacitors on my old Xbox and Thinkpad 390E since there is a possibility of leakage. Ill def watch any other vids you have on capacitor rules. My rule of thumb would be to replace them all or in the case of the xbox, just rip it since it only controls internal clock.

Most electrolytic caps have a 15-20 year life span in general and this can vary because of manufacturing, use, heat, etc. I changed the caps in the power supply because this is crucial. However, even though it is working great, it could have benefitted having new caps in the camera as well. Most time the power supply fails and causes damage. If a cap in the unit fails you will see lines in image or problems in sound, etc. But it won't damage the unit. I did not see any leaked caps anywhere but the ones in power supply had high ESR (resistance). Thanks for watching!

@@RetroRepairGuy my pleasure to watch, thanks for your knowledge to

JVC of the 80s made in Japan was quite different than today. Thanks for watching!

Hi there! This is a very good question and it can be attributed to several factors. For example Engineers often select capacitors with higher voltage ratings than the actual operating voltage to ensure reliability and longevity. This safety margin helps protect capacitors from voltage spikes and surges that can occur in the circuit. Since capacitors are typically able to handle less than their maximum rated voltage, to improve their performance over time and reduce the risk of failure a higher capacitor could have been chosen. If there is no space constraint you are able to do this easily, and back in the day this was common practice. Also while today we have extremely low ESR capacitors as I showed in some videos, higher voltage capacitors often have lower ESR (resistance) and better frequency response. This was partly due to the availability and cost-effectiveness of certain capacitor types as manufacturers might have standardized on certain capacitor values and voltage ratings to simplify procurement and inventory management. If 50V capacitors were commonly used in other parts, it would make sense to use them in the Atari 2600 as well. I'm sure you wonder then can it be replaced with another of lower voltage, yes but I would advise always making sure to select one made for power supplies with very low ESR. When I replace components I try to always stay true to the original design unless I really don't have a choice. In summary, operating a capacitor well below its maximum voltage rating reduces the electrical stress on the component, which can lead to longer operational life. The use of 50V capacitors in the Atari 2600, despite the power supply being only 5V, was a design decision probably aimed at ensuring reliability, performance and longevity of the system while keeping cost to a minimum. Thanks for watching!

@@RetroRepairGuy Yeah that's all understandable but the Atari runs on an external linear voltage supply, not an internal switching supply so the frequency stress and thus heat would not be present here. Perhaps it's an older cap design thing? I couldn't find that cap on the schematic so I can't confirm but Id agree that maybe it's a parts availability thing with other systems, minimizing bill of materials. Either way, like you said, it's always preferable to go up a voltage level or two if space isn't an issue, and you've preserved the original specs more accurately. Well done!

Thank you! Happy it helped and thanks for watching!

Hi! Was a pleasure meeting you! Anytime! And same to you! Have a great day!

Hi! Thank you. Yep lots to consider, especially when media is being changed to adapt to current politics. Thanks for watching!

Thanks so much for the support and kind words Wally! Have a great weekend!

Hi there! Well a few things. First of course there is the fact that I've been doing this for 30 years and made my share of mistakes over the years. In general it's like a puzzle and pieces can only fit one way and screws each have a purpose. If you're not sure or not used to it, just take a picture on your phone. Back in the day we didn't have that and could only refer to a service manual so I learned the hard way but today it's easy for that. If ever there is something very intricate or special you can always refer to it later. Or film it and explain to yourself where it goes pointing at it. At one point it's like a mechanic working on a car you just know how to do brakes but if there is something special you refer to the manual. Thanks for watching!

Hi! Thank you. You don't have to upscale with this if you don't want, I just chose to set it this way in order to record the new footage at 1080P and the results as you see, were quite nice. But for transferring old footage I probably would not upscale and as you said, do it in post. I looked into the ClearClick which looks almost identical. However, I don't recall all the "whys" but I know the 2.0 was very similar but can only record in 720P, which for new stuff I did not like. Price for the 2.0 is $50 more but already did less for me. There are extensive reviews of it on UA-cam, some better than others. If memory serves, I would have needed version 3.0 and it's double the price. Also, the 3.0 has an integrated battery which I did not want. A personal choice, but I wanted to rely on external power like my battery pack and not have to deal with recharging the unit or stuck with changing an unknown battery in the future. Unfortunately I did not get to try the ClearClick for myself and the point of the video was more about recording without tapes and not a review on the Cloner Alliance. Thanks for watching!