Відео

Hi, I bought the TO1112D model a few months ago and I didn't encounter the screenshot saving issue you reported in your previous video. The "D" version comes with a signal generator, which allows for custom waveforms. I'm just not an expert so I didn't play much with that. Anyway, the thing is that before choosing Hantek TO1000 series I've seen a number of positive reviews but I realized, too late, that those reviews were on the 4 channel version which has a 1GSa/S sampling rate, while the To1112[C/D] has only a forth of it, 250MSa/S. I was wondering then, given the rated bandwidth of 110MHz of the oscilloscope, how good can be the captured signal if the sampling rate is just only double than the bandwidth. I'm confident that the quality of the components of Hantek T01000 will be able to keep up with the amplitude even at 110MHz, but I doubt whatever will be displayed will be "useful" given that there won't be enough sample points per cycle. So today I've been looking for reviews specifically on the TO1000 series and I found your videos, which unfortunately was only reporting two main issues (which one for sure has been addressed with the latest firmware) and this your last video, of only three days ago (which when I've seen it I said WOW, what a synchronicity! I'm looking for the updated review and there it is! fresh from three days ago... super cool!) that sadly, at least for me, is only about the firmware upgrade. So, I hope you'll be able and willing to make a video about the actual quality of the captured signal of the TO1000 and the limits, in frequency and functions, to it's usability. In any case, many thanks for the video you already made and keep up with the good work! 😊 Alex

Me llegó uno y dice que tiene instalado 1.8

Im new for this type of thing and just using multimeter for car diagnostic. Im car mechanic. Just want easy solution for car wiring and electronic controller. Ive seen other type of oscill with overkill. Thats too advanced for a guy like me. And lot of instruction to use it. The price is way too high than this . I think this mini type of oscill is enough for my work. Thanks you for tutorial dude. Ive watch all of your other video part

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thanks for tutorial just updated mine.

Thanks! Is it 2024 5 November soft or? I need to check my.

I bought this scope with the built in signal generator ..do you find battery life is rubbish mine only lasts about a day.would it be possible to replace these batteries if they ever go altogether? What's your thought's. I wish I had waited a few months before buying mine as I bought mine after watching your first vids when you got yours.really disappointed over my battery.

I’m sorry, Dave. I’m afraid I can’t do that.🤣 So with your experience using these ultra low dollar oscilloscope products . Which one would you recommend to students if I were going to recommend one to somebody very low dollar budget to use on his own car to learn and dip his toes into the water to see if he ever wants to purchase a more expensive one.

Hantek Odyssey

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Just happened to found your video, and I am so happy I did !! Excellent explanation, every mechanic should subscribe to your channel !!

Your videos made me know I bought some thing good. I innitially thought I wasted money.

Thank you, great explanations.

Can I use a Hanteck or Pico amp clamp with the FNIRSI-DSO 152

What a diabolical mechanism. So many ways to mess up. Bet you were glad when you got it done! Thanks for sharing the journey

Great video comparing 152 & 153. I do note the modus peak voltage induction spike is 120v and the 152's peak voltage is ~32v (it's less because of the lower sampling rate I presume). The 153's voltage is maxed out on the display. Perhaps if the 153 was put on 20v / division the same as the modus, it might show a similar peak voltage. However, I can't see the pintle bump in the 153's curve. With some adjustment in the timing I'd give the 153 a second chance.

Excellent video using the DSO152. Well done.

Excellent explanation. This is very helpful. Thankyou.

Thanks for the video! Mine had the same issue of a clogged line after the solenoid. Took off the line and confirmed it was blocked by blowing on it. Poked the metal part with a sewing needle to clear the small opening and reassembled it. That was all it took to get water flowing again.

A bit late into the conversation. 45 years in the auto industry and looking at scopes now. You show a Pico Scope that is not normally used in the auto industry. I have been looking at their packages and wonder if it would be better buying into the package deal or learning with this basic scope and hoping I get the right attenuation and probes? The price difference looks like a couple hundred once all probes and accessories are bought. A scope like a micrometer if not used properly becomes worthless.

Das Umkehrspiel der Spindel beeinflusst nicht die Genauigkeit der Maschine, weil man ja immer nur in eine Richtung zustellt. Jede Maschine hat Umkehrspiel. Ohne würde es nicht funktionieren. Also wo wäre dann die Grenze? Was mir aufgefallen ist, dass du deine Klemmleiste sehr lose eingestellt hast. Der Planschlitten sollte sich nicht so leicht verschieben lassen.

I wonder if you cut the slot in the nut a bit wider if would it allow it to close the threads tighter

Good video, thumbs up and subscribed!

The backlash won’t necessarily affect the accuracy, as normally you only cut in one direction, once the slack is taken out, if you put a thou on, that’s what you will cut. Also it’s not difficult to make a new nut, easiest way is to make a tap, as it’s easier to cut an external thread than an internal one.

St. Patrick's church is the actual original bulit in 1872 along with the school and the rest of the buildings. Apparently one of the only in Ontario to still have the original buildings still intact.

In a pinch, I have crushed a nut in an arbor press (with the screw in it!) to snug it up. Don't judge me; it worked. I made a new nut later, single-point threaded. But if you use the machine a lot (and you said you don't) you can get used to a crazy amount of backlash. You instinctively take out the lash on each cut by backing up more than needed so that you are going only in one direction in anger. I've cheated with my new machine, by installing a DRO.

I've found age is inversely proportional to tolerance, not just your lathe

Man you get into some really cool shit.

we had a lot of older machines in our shop, some over 80 yrs lots of play, not just the nuts but also the slides...worn in center so could only do so much with gib we did our best... on your hobby lathe, screw being a "V" thread rather than ACME doesn't help...can't take much pressure...especially use of knurling tool, I can imagine being bronze and soft, one option would be a hammer blow on outside to deform the threaded hole ... not for the faint of heart and have to go easy since you don't have a tap to save you if you go too far grinding a groove (3/4" long) at start of thread on screw (area not used in operation) can make that portion of screw a tap, good enough to chase small amount of material if hammered too far your close up shot at the vice reminded me of my video style:)

I watched a whole bunch of cheap Chinese slave, modification videos. Watching them making things to address the backlash new components. Making new gears. There’s 1000 videos on how to upgrade and modify all the problems with these cheap Chinese lathe.

Great video sir, may i know where did you get the manuals? I have a sx4 2010 and i struggle a lot finding info to solve problems. Thanks 🫡

first hammer blow will hurt:) not too many hobby shops would own a knurling tool...am impressed, Ian

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Nice skills to have. 👍

Another cracking video, might just have to buy some! Keep up the good work, thanks!

Great explanation. Going to borrow this set up for my upcoming class

thanks 👍

Remove the shift lever, drill the housing and tap and add a grease fitting.

Thorough video, much appreciated!

Hello, is it possible to use this device in auto electronics to check signals from sensors, crankshaft, camshaft (Hall sensor), ABS, catalyst sensor?

Well that's just bloody genius! Thanks for sharing!

Interesting design Ian, I didn't think of starting the die from the good side of the stud when you originally showed the split tool.

I would like to do the firmware update without any undesired mistakes and as I saw in the video that the following Notice was not done from the manual but I also saw that the update was successful that is why I am just asking. Is this means something in the manual: "During the upgrade process, you need to keep pressing the power button until the file transfer is complete."? Is there anyone who is in the know?

Wow, you work very very well, i can see you apply yourself in what you do and are methodic. Are you an aircraft mecanic or something?

that HR-V would now pass FAA certification

Got a little salt 🧂 there

I can use this, thanks man!