Відео

You can certainly turbocharge a stock engine, you’ll just have a lower limit on how far you can push the engine and how much power you can make. There are some impressive mild 1600 turbo setups out there. It’s a great way to get your feet wet with boost too.

@@vee_dub_nut will i feel the difference in tourqe or its better to swap a golf 1 engine?

The 90 off the right side of the charge cooler was the tightest radius I could find, and the run back across still required the upward jog to hit the throttle body height and silicon 90 on it. A rigid tight radius 90 directly leaving the throttle body would have helped, but unfortunately the throttle body outlet wasn’t made in a way to support that.

In retrospect, some simple 45’s would have sufficed. The advantage of pie cuts is the ability to rotate/twist the centerline of a bend if needed. Since I didn’t know the exact path the charge pipe would take when I started, I went with the pie cuts for the most flexibility. In the end 45’s would have been easier.

Yea, it’s unfortunately a little wonky. it shows low on the low end, roughly correct about mig gauge, and optimistic on the top end 🤣 Coupled with the shorter front tires, it’s just a suggestion on actual speed. Although not accurate to the actual number, this motor setup would sweep the gauge and bury the needle pretty quickly. The next setup should do even better 😉

Haha.. indeed! I ran several of my motors on your stand 🤣 Had to give it back when I moved lol

Thank you!

Thanks for the compliment!

Varies a lot.. I bought all new calipers/etc, so not the cheapest route. The hubs and caliper brackets are relatively inexpensive.

Thanks!

I’ll run a heat exchanger to the right side of the transaxle (mirroring my current external oil cooler), Bosch pump and ice box/reservoir in the package tray. And yes, a video to follow soon(ish)!

They are Cosmic wheels in 15x5.5. Cosmics are available from CIP in a few different lug patterns (these are 5x130 Porsche pattern)

They did offer an auto-stick, but no full auto. Type 3’s had a full auto option, and they are great to drive.

Thank you 😊🙃

Thanks for watching! I’m currently running a Berg shifter, but I think in the past videos it’s been the Scat Dragfast shifter. It’s a good shifter for the $$

It’s an AGP cw5157 turbo. Same brand that CB Perf sells. The engine is a 2084 (78.4x92 thickwall).

Agreed, that would make the plumbing layout a little nicer, but I was attempting to make the intercooler “bolt in”, in case it ever needed to be replaced. Stay tuned though, as I’ve already moved on to another layout 🤣

Thank you!

What's the horsepower bro ?​@@vee_dub_nut

Thank you!

Thank you, I appreciate it!

Thanks! This is my first car actually… me and it go way back!

Thanks for the kind words!

I’ll try to add something in an upcoming video on how that’s setup. You can get ideas from a search on TheSamba and ShopTalkForums too

They are NA (non-turbo) early offset 944 hubs. You can get a spacer kit directly from Lanner (may be available other places too, but you’d have to look), bearings/races are stock Bus parts

Hi , thanks for your answer. I have a set of 1986 n.a. 944 hubs, will this be the early offset? How do I know? Thank you very much

🤣 that’s funny! Well, thanks for watching lol.. I’m looking forward to trying out the intercooler setup myself. Your positive results you posted on STF really inspired me to go that route as well 🤞🏻

It’s a header from Ahnendorp out of Germany, and a stainless single chamber Flowmaster I welded up to it. Looked good, but it was pretty loud IMO

@@vee_dub_nut The header looked familiar,just want to make sure.Too bad, it was loud.

They are Standard Ignition RY330K. Note, they are only ground switching capable, unlike a standard coil type relay that can be triggered via switched ground or 12v.

@@vee_dub_nut ah cool, so they are turned on by switching a pin to ground?

Yea, that’s correct

Thank you! The MS3Pro has a lot of capabilities, but with that comes a ton of wiring to make it work. Pretty happy with the end result

Thank you! It’s definitely a time consuming job. The work itself isn’t quick to do, and there is a LOT of planning that has to be done before you can actually start running wires and pinning connectors.

@@vee_dub_nut yep, I fully get it. I haven’t done a setup like that yet but I have custom wired a few cars and it’s all in planing stage if you want to be successful.

100%!!

🤣🤣🤣 Well earned ribbing lol… 🤞🏻this one will get on the road soon

Thanks for the props! It’s getting there, slowly but surely…

Thank you! I’m happy with how it came out

There isn’t a part number for them per se, they’re just a custom made spacer typically. I’m sure you can google the specs for the required ID/OD and thickness. Must people cut them on a lathe.

Thanks for the feedback, and thanks for watching! My videos are far from being meant as instructional, but I’ll keep that in mind in the future. Hopefully get some better shots in the future. Sorry, but the next welding video was already recorded before your post 🤣

Yes! Should have another video or two posted here real soon. Thanks for following along!

Danke schön!

For the fronts, the factory Bus flex lines work perfectly. I upgraded to stainless braided ones over stock rubber, but nothing else special

I think you’ll like it! It provided really smooth operation, and excellent synchronization between the carbs throughout throttle opening

Happy to help

No, with my old single TB setups, I never had an plenums. Just the intake tee going into efi style end castings. The new single setup I built after I sold this itb setup used cut down idf manifolds with plenums welded on. I’m hopeful that this and the cam choice makes for a smooth running engine.

Joe, my final tire sizes are 205/45/17 on the front and 235/45/17 on the rear. I’m back on a full width adjustable front beam still with the WW dropped spindles. The rear has 13mm spacers on redrilled stock drums (the adapter was too thick). If you search my user name on TheSamba, I’ve got a detailed build thread with all the info.

I’m certainly not an expert on T4’s, but condition of the center bearing saddle is important. Bolt the case up together and shine light through the crank tunnel, and see if you get any light that passes through the bearing saddle surfaces. Also make sure the middle cam boss isn’t damaged from over tightening the oil plate. Just a few things to look for

Yes, the apron fits. Check out my IG for more pictures

Thanks! Yea, it was a T4 from a late bus, early Vanagon, etc. The southeast is nice for sure, a lot different than out west. We like it.

@@vee_dub_nut pretty sweet. I don’t think I’ve ever seen someone put a t4 in a t1 before. Prob took a lot of modification to get it to fit. What size engine is it? 2.0? I see the Subaru swaps are popular are these type 4 comparable in power? I’m guessing they are water cooled also.

Thanks! I’m way behind on videos, but still been working on the car

Thanks! The fab part is my favorite. I like the creative part of the process

Thanks! I’m WAY behind on videos. Been working on the car here and there when I can, but haven’t had time to film anything unfortunately

You’re not wrong! Easy to spend a small fortune on plumbing

@@vee_dub_nut and Earl's fittings are really pricey I guess they know if it's a racecar or a custom car build we will pay anything for the cool parts

Would require a different caliper bracket, and a slightly different approach with the hubs (beetle bearings are smaller than bus). But, Lanner has several options for this (or similar) for Beetles. Hit him up and he can get you fixed up

@@vee_dub_nut thank u do u have a web site are email for the gentleman?

Yes, it was a good feeling to confirm it all worked after the harness modifications! Was excited to move on to getting the swap started in the Bus

Have to tell you boys, I love watching your videos. I'm about to start a project on a '73 Camper. Flying to coastal NC to get it out of where it's located and do as much to the engine as I can before heading back to LA. Gotta work to pay for this project. @vangabonders, @@vee_dub_nut

I didn’t finish this one before making some major layout changes (which are still in progress), but I’ve used the low mount hideaway headers on several builds in the past with zero issues. All gravity drain back to the side of a deep sump. Key it using only a -3 oil feed, and a large -10 drain line.

@@vee_dub_nut Thanks Adam! Is posible this setup with the stock oil sump?