Відео

I'm counting down the days until I can finally get time to slap the skunk2 camshaft and kraftwerks supercharger on my R18 😎👍

@@LevelUpMechanics I also did some fooling around when I was tuning my moms car, I noticed that when actually trying to hit VTEC spool it actually switched to the ignition high THIS is for the 9th gen civic. I also saw there was more functions for VTEC which was weird to me because on my 8th GEN ECU it was ignition high for the economy, these engines are the same but I wonder if the ECU is programmed differently! Might take it to a dyno shop to help me understand.

It is most likely that the ECU is programmed differently.

@@LevelUpMechanics yeah I sent an email to yoshtuned to see their opinion on it

@AtoriKushina I'd be interested to hear what you find out 😁👍

Well, that blows (no pun intended 🤣).

The AT4W's are just an updated version of the AT3W's...

They are the updated version, yes 😁👍. Lots of positive reviews 😎.

This setup will most definitely fit on stock suspension (no rubbing issues) 😁👍

I'm glad it worked out for you 😁👍

HKS is a good brand, but you're paying for the name...

There should be a link in the description section of my video 👍

They are "unpainted" at the moment 🤣

I have one waiting to be installed 👍... along with a kraftwerks supercharger 😎. The only thing holding me back right now is the Texas heat 🔥🔥🔥 and time off from work 🤣.

The upgrade is still a single piston brake caliper... just bigger... A bigger piston means more surface area (for the pistons, brake pads, and brake rotors)... which means better heat dissipation & braking performance 😁👍. This upgrade will feel exactly like your stock brakes when daily driving, but it will be more reliable on the track (when brake temps start to peak).

I can only speak to my current setup, as I eliminated my catalytic converter... Without the cat, there is definitely drone noise at full throttle (although it is significantly less than the Spec-D exhaust). If you still have your catalytic converter, then drone issues will be minimal (if any). Overall, I'm very happy with the sounds that come from this exhaust, as it is definitely a big improvement when compared to my previous Spec-D exhaust system 😁👍.

The screen resolution is great 😁👍. I don't remember the resolution specs at the moment, but it's a major step up from the factory head unit. I even like the improvement that the screen has when in reverse... you get a bigger picture in reverse, and even though the reverse camera limits the screen quality, it is much easier to see the details... ... and no, there is no screen door effect 😁👍

@@LevelUpMechanics can you tilt it towards you? Is it fixed like that?

@Tommy-Eagle-USA the screen is in a "fixed position".

@@LevelUpMechanics thanks, that was the deal breaker for me, no Sirius XM sucks too.

Fender flares amzn.to/3YLTphC Rivet nuts amzn.to/3AAQo9L Front lip amzn.to/3AsnHfm I just spray painted the fender flares (with clear coat) with paint that I bought off Amazon (you'll want to get the paint code for your car). The front lip comes with the screws needed.

@@LevelUpMechanics thanks!

@@LevelUpMechanics also sorry for all the the questions but I want my civic to be just like yours 😂 I was wondering what size rims you have

@grogudelgado08 my wheels are 18" x 8.5" + 35mm offset However, this size may cause your tires to rub against the fenders... to avoid this issue, I would recommend a wheel in this size (18" x 8.5") to have a +38mm to +40mm wheel offset.

@@LevelUpMechanics I was gonna get the stock sized 16” for mine

Eibach has two "stage 2" options. The "stage 2R" comes with better rear shocks that include external reservoirs. Both "stage 2" options have the same ride height specs. 😁👍

I sincerely appreciate the support! Thank you 😁👍.

The sound quality is slightly better than stock. It's a minimal improvement, but it is still noticeable 😁👍. I really enjoy all of the features this head unit has to offer. The only downside that I can think of is that sometimes it can be hard to navigate menus, as there are a ton of different options for the features available. Other than that, I am very happy with this setup so far 😁👍.

The Kenwood is damn near 1500 all in

I agree 😁👍. I think I know the reason, though. Peragon does include the T-Slots for the 3rd Gen Toyota Tacoma because the bed rails come standard on ALL of them from the factory... However, with the Toyota Tundra, the oem bed rails were a "dealer installed" add-on accessory that didn't come standard from the factory. I'm glad that this video was helpful!

I'm not sure... I haven't seen / heard the skunk2 exhaust on the R18 civic yet. I did have a skunk2 exhaust on my Honda Del Sol a long time ago and absolutely loved it! I would say that this Yonaka exhaust is just as good... it sounds great (especially if you still have the factory catalytic converter installed) 😁👍.

@@LevelUpMechanics mine is a stock civic. Do they have catalytic converter? Im new to these stuff. Yonaka is cheaper as well.

@LordBagdanoff if your civic is stock, then yes, you have a catalytic converter 😁👍

@@LevelUpMechanics Mine is a Civic Ex. Do you think it’s worth to upgrade to the Si model or just do my own mods like changing the exhaust and other stuff.

@LordBagdanoff the Si model is definitely the best platform to build on. There are more options to choose from, as far as aftermarket mods / upgrades are concerned. I'm building my R18 Honda Civic mainly because there aren't as many people out there who choose to go this route. 30 years ago, B-series motors were all the rage, and the D-series motors were never given the time of day... and now you can find tons of people who build strong D-Series motors all the time with great results! This is the same situation between the R-series motors & K-series motors. If you have the means to upgrade to an Si, I'd highly recommend it, as there are a ton of benefits to having an Si. I'm just following a different path to do something that most people don't pursue.

Which connectors are you referring to?

@@LevelUpMechanics At 15:20 of the video you mention 2 factory connectors that are not hooked up to anything and say you will figure those out but never say what to do with them. What are they and are they necessary?

@chuckdemarinis thanks for the update... I see what you are referring to now. I think one of the factory connectors was for the factory auxiliary port. I can't remember what the other connector was for... These last 2 factory connectors aren't needed for this setup, and I just tucked them away with the rest of the wiring harnesses. Thank you for pointing that out to me! I appreciate it very much 😁👍.

FULL SEND 🤣🤣🤣

The exhaust pipe can get close to a heat shield located in an area that is in front of the passenger rear tire area (underneath the vehicle). The good news is that the heat shield is flexible, and you can bend it out of the way with just your hands (be careful not to accidentally cut yourself on any sharp edges). I would recommend safely lifting up the rear end of the vehicle, then grab the exhaust piping (when cold) and gently rock the exhaust from side to side to visually see where it makes contract with the heat shield underneath. I hope this info helps! 😁👍

@@LevelUpMechanics hey so i actually just jacked it up and looked under there a few days ago and yeah i could clearly see where the shield was making contact with the exhaust, so i just bend it out of the way. thanks for your help

@grogudelgado08 I'm glad I could help out! 😁👍

I'll get rid of it as soon as I slap on my kraftwerks supercharger 😎👍

@@LevelUpMechanics oh nice I'll be looking forward to that video. I've got fk2 8th gen hatch with the r18a2 engine by the way. Great cars.

I personally prefer a short ram intake solely to avoid the possibility of hydrolocking the engine when driving through a large puddle / storm. A child air intake is good for top end power (high rpms), and a short ram is better for low-to-mid range torque. 😁👍

Acuity Instruments offers an actual shifter upgrade that you may want to look into. I don't think you would need the shifter base bushings when you replace the actual shifter... However, you may still want the shifter cable bushings that attach to the transmission 😁👍.

acuityinstruments.com/collections/8th-gen-honda-civic-2006-2011

Changing the shift cable bushings and the shifter base bushings helps to eliminate the excessive play / "sloppy" feeling in the shifter when shifting. It's really a "night vs. day" difference, as shifting now feels more "crisp" / precise.

@@LevelUpMechanics Thanks for the detail response - I have a Civic 2010 RHD Non Si. Would also fit correct?

@gabrielalonzo1211 I would think so, yes. However, I would recommend reaching out to Acuity to verify for sure, as I'm not 100% certain. I don't know if there are any shifter differences between LHD and RHD.

There is none

8th gen civics use Electronic Brake Distrution (controlled by the ABS pump / module) instead of a proportioning valve 😁👍

@@LevelUpMechanics so it’s programmed to push fluid to the rear for drums? So grab an abs unit for an ex/si because there probably not self adjusting

@taylorsellers7018 All 8th Gen Civics are equipped with a 4-channel ABS & Electronic Brake Distribution (EBD). You already have it 😎👍

​@LevelUpMechanics @taylorsellers7018 May be right about the ABS modulator. The part number for the ex is different from the lx. I'm trying to find more information on it myself, but it could very well be valved differently inside the mechanical part of the ABS modular. My other concern is if the modulator from an ex will work on an lx car. I'm assuming that it will bolt up just fine, but idk if the electric portion will communicate with the rest of the vehicle and/or if it'll be able to be programmed to the lx vehicle

Does your music play while in backup? And can you hear audio when you’re recording while music is playing?

I know you can change the settings for the audio level while in reverse (it's either in system settings or it's in the software settings - you'll want to look up the instructions on how to access the software settings). As far as the audio issue is concerned while recording, I am not sure at the moment. I haven't played around with recording features, so I will need to do some research to see if I can find an answer for you.

Settings > Car > Extra Settings > Reversing Volume

Trying to figure out where specific options & settings are can be a bit difficult on this head unit, as there are A TON of different features. I wish there was an "easy to read" manual that thoroughly went over every single setting you can adjust...

Yes, it will work 😁👍

@@LevelUpMechanics thank you for the response! This is super dope, I appreciate your video so much!

@kevinmizhquiri5865 No problem 👍. I'm glad you like the video 😁!

Sorry for the late reply. I will need to check, as I don't know the answer for sure yet... I do know that when I use Google Maps via Android Auto, it shows me a speed limit display... I just don't know if it also gets incorporated to the factory speed limit display...

Meh, I try 🤣 🤣 🤣

I don't get it 🤔...

Nice 😁 👍. That's awesome! It's good to know there are options 🤟.

The Yonaka exhaust has a much deeper tone than the Spec-D exhaust. If you still have the factory catalytic converter, then you'll notice a significant difference in sound quality (for the better) 😁👍.

I definitely like the sound of this exhaust, too 👍. This exhaust has a much deeper tone than my previous Spec-D exhaust.

🥰🥰🥰

🥰🥰🥰

The OEM exhaust has a 1.75" ID. The Yonaka exhaust has a 2.25" ID.

@@LevelUpMechanics Thank you for your response, I always wonder does making the inner diameter bigger means good? cause less restrictive? some people say its bad tho cause it lacks the back pressure? I'm a little confused. I have a full exhaust but the inner diameter is 2.50"..

@reignstir here is a really good video from Engineering Explained that explains the pros & cons of "back pressure." ua-cam.com/video/jjPeP_Nn2B4/v-deo.htmlsi=s86n5edNAJDdLUp0

I'm pretty confident that I will also bend a rod. It's just a matter of time at this point 🤣.

@@LevelUpMechanics preparation is key :)

Agreed 👍

Nice 😁👍. I definitely like the sound and quality of this Yonaka exhaust. I'm sure it sounds even better paired with your K20 😁.

This is exactly what I did, too... after having problems with the 2nd Spec-D exhaust, I was so frustrated that I immediately purchased this Yonaka exhaust out of spite for Spec-D 🤣 🤣 🤣.

ur gonna need spacers that convert 5x114.3 to the 5x112

Wheel adapters seem to be the most likely solution, but you will need to know what your aftermarket wheel specs are because the wheel adapters will push your wheels out and you may have clearance issues between your wheels / tires and the fenders / quarter panels... You'll also need to pay attention to the hub bore size of your aftermarket wheels to make sure they will fit on the oem hub &/or the wheel adapter hub bore... Best of luck to you! I hope you are able to get those wheels & tires on your civic soon!

@aidanlikesshoes6892 agreed 👍. Spacers / wheel adapters.

@@aidanlikesshoes6892 thank bro man!!!

@@LevelUpMechanics thank you boss! i was just curious of as to how to go about it. thanks!

Yeah, I noticed that too. The exhaust tip sits pretty flush against the stock rear bumper. I could definitely see how there could be clearance issues with any alternative rear bumper upgrades.

How’s the drone on the exhaust hanging used it for so long. Also the horsepower and fuel consumption

You probably need to relocate / reroute the oem harness on the passenger side... I'm not quite sure what you mean by "routing to a fuse on the driver side". The Toyota OEM power lock wire harness is designed to be "plug & play" with the wire connectors found on the passenger side of the vehicle (behind the passenger front kick panel underneath the dash).

Thanks, I appreciate it! I haven't used any aftermarket cv axles as of yet. I'm sure this might change once the supercharger is installed 😆. Good parts for the R18 civic are getting harder to find these days. I will keep an eye out for a solution that might work for you. I appreciate the support! 😁👍

If you still have your factory catalytic converter, the Yonaka catback exhaust is very conservative (as far as sound quality). Since I've deleted my catalytic converter, any exhaust system installed on my Civic will automatically sound loud & raspy... Both the Spec-D and Yonaka exhausts have 2.25" ID / 2.5" OD piping. This size is pretty standard for most (if not all) non-si Civic exhaust upgrades. I hope this info helps! 😁👍

Sounds like you got lucky! I am very familiar with cold air intakes sitting too low and sucking up water... this is the main reason why I currently have a short air intake... Though, I won't have it for much longer once I slap on this supercharger 🤣.

I'm still holding onto the Spec-D exhaust at the moment... I could probably find a way to bend the hanger rod to help align it to the stock mounting rod. I guess I just wanted to try something different 😆. So far, I'm really happy with the quality of Yonaka's exhaust.

Actually, you're in luck! My next video is coming out tomorrow morning @ 8 a.m. (CST) and will feature my new exhaust (Yonaka Motorsports)... There will be exhaust clips at the beginning and end of the video 😁👍.

Good to know! I'll start working on a new video going over all the features & functions 😁👍. As far as wifi goes, you can do both. You can choose to use a dedicated SIM card, or you can tether to your phone. So far, this head unit is still performing flawlessly. No issues experienced 😁👍.